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    Spock66
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    Member No.#5006
    RegisteredπŸ“…31st May 2018
    Last OnlineπŸ“…14th Aug 2020
    CityπŸ“Highfield Rd
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    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    2 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    AT LAST!

    Hi All,
    Sorry for background, but you needed to see the holes in the brass sheet.

    So, after about an hour in the room temp Ferric Chloride we have the basis of:
    Rigging for sail nets, cargo net for warship sides, grating for ship deck - anything.

    If you can scale it onto brass (or copper), you can DIY etch it!

    The whole point of this simple series is to show that anyone (and believe me, with my restrictions I mean ANYONE), can take an idea, print it, put it onto brass, etch it and end up with a perfect personalised item for pennies.

    After the initial setup costs we reckon this one cost about 35p, for an 80mm * 52mm item!
    Surely less than commercial sources where you only need a few, or there are no comparable 'shop bought' items available.

    Hope it helps someone else in the group.
    By the way, the kitchen and my marriage are still intact - NEVER do this in your kitchen sink!

    Next I'm going to try DIY Electroforming and see if I can make a gun barrel!

    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    2 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Develop or bust!

    Hi All,

    Now we're onto the developing part. Remove the remaining clear acetate sheet from the 'uv'd' board, it should just peel away by hand.

    Place the whole board in the solution (remember, about a scoop to 100 ml of water) and wait for a couple of minutes (may need more, hardly ever less). GENTLY, rub the brass sheet with either an old toothbrush, or a soft modelling paint brush. Either way, you just want to rub the surface NOT SCRUB. The undeveloped film will be removed - leaving behind shiny brass to be etched away and film where we want to keep the brass intact.

    Then dry the board and place under your UV lamp source again - this time for double the original exposure time. This will harden the resist and let you see any areas that you didn't clean properly with the toothbrush as 'discoloured' areas in the brass that should be etched away. If it's important, then use a scalpel, file etc. to remove the last of the film from those areas.

    Next we're going to use a black sharpie to colour the edges of the brass sheet and any areas that either didn't have film on them or where a small part of the film is missing.

    Good to go?

    Now we're going to etch!

    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi All,

    So onwards!

    Picture shows super clean brass sheet, just basking in some washing up liquid water - to keep it wet.
    Then, in line with the 'How to' we applied some photo sensitive sheet, then laminated it.

    The other picture is showing the brass sheet after placing it into the plastic pocket (a la 'how to')
    and exposing it for 65 seconds. If you zoom in you can even make out the fine grid lines from the mask.!

    Next we'll go on to developing - get your washing oxy powder ready!
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Ed,

    Many, many thanks for the thread link. Couldn't make it automatic, so very grateful for your assistance. Will contact stephen (Fireboat) to explain goof and ask him to remove it.
    Again cheers
    AndyπŸ‘
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    While I'm trying to link to the 'how to' section, here is next step.

    So you've cleaned the brass, it's all shiny and ready to go - WRONG!
    See how the water has beaded up?
    You must degrease, wash, clean or whatever so that water forms a continuous sheet, without beads when you run water over the sheet.

    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Martin,

    Tried at first and screwed up the original 'How to' - lost all links to PDF files and couldn't put them back!

    So created new 'How To' and although there is a button for files and photos, there is nothing to add a link (that I can see).
    I copied the model-boats.com/forum/77241 ready to paste it, but I'm blowed if I can work out how to paste it in and now there is a 'how to' with nothing in it apart from text that doesn't link to the pdf and one that does - trust me to screw up the Model Boats website.
    If someone can guide me how to get the link in, get rid of the now useless 'How-to' and show me where the link post place is I'll be over the moon!
    Many thanks

    Andy
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    πŸ“ How to DIY Photo Etch
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    This is a PDF of how we do my photo etching in a very simplistic and basic way. With help (cos of my crip status!), We photoetch small parts and larger ones, depending on what's needed. We even help out friends (see bit in PDF where we made aircraft ribs).
    Hope its helpful and sets more on the same course.
    Andy
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    πŸ“ How to DIY Photo Etch
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    https://model-boats.com/forum/77241
    This is a PDF of how we do my photo etching in a very simplistic and basic way. With help (cos of my crip status!), We photoetch small parts and larger ones, depending on what's needed. We even help out friends (see bit in PDF where we made aircraft ribs).
    Hope its helpful and sets more on the same course.
    Andy
    https://model-boats.com/forum/77241
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Martin,

    Only problem is, I don't know how to do that!
    Any tips greatly appreciated.

    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Here we are again!

    First we cut the clear OHP into two pieces and overlay them exactly.

    Then, next picture we taped three edges and placed a clamp into it to show the pocket shape.

    Next we cut some 3mm brass sheet (see it will etch pretty thick stuff), notice the bent shape from cutting.

    Then we flattened the sheet and inside the pocket you can see how filthy the brass is.

    Now time for cleaning, we've done half in the pocket so you can see the difference.

    Time for major cleaning on both sides.
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    OK here we go! Time for some netting / mesh.

    It was thought some photo's would help explain the process, so here goes with the first in a group of them. If it's in the wrong place, or doesn't help please let me know how to correct things.

    First photo to explain the text in the 'how to section'.

    It looks like a pair of wired windows. In fact each is a black bordered set of squares. Each square is 2mm and all I did, in MS Publisher, was draw one square and then set it's dimensions to 2mm * 2mm, with a line border of 0.25 point, no fill. Then I copied it 6 times and aligned each square vertically with the first one and horizontally so that each line was an overlay of the one next higher. Then I grouped that block and repeated, growing the blocks in the group until it reached a reasonable size. Then I draw a solid black rectangle - sent it to the back and aligned it around the square mesh. That too was grouped to the 'mesh'. Then I copied the whole thing and pasted another one nearby.

    Printed them onto Transparent film in photo quality. The image you see is them after coming out of the printer but before prepping for the etching pocket - that comes next!
    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Martin,
    Thank you for your support - never know if these things are useful or not. We're already starting on the netting. Will post photos as we go.
    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Martin,

    Amy (the boss daughter) and I will design and etch some netting - like around the gun base on HMCS Regina and others- I used tights at the time, but Photo etch would have been so much better. Then can try it on next build. Will get it done and post step by step photos.
    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    It's in the How to articles! I managed it!
    Thought I'd show some of those aircraft ribs (I know we don't do aircraft, but there are odd people out there who do!)
    Apart from from final filing, they are ready to roll - needed to make 37 in total!
    Have fun
    Andy
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    πŸ“ How to DIY Photo Etch
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    This is a PDF of how we do my photo etching in a very simplistic and basic way. With help (cos of my crip status!), We photoetch small parts and larger ones, depending on what's needed. We even help out friends (see bit in PDF where we made aircraft ribs).
    Hope its helpful and sets more on the same course.
    Andy
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    πŸ“
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    This is a PDF of how we do my photo etching in a very simplistic and basic way. With help (cos of my crip status!), We photoetch small parts and larger ones, depending on what's needed. We even help out friends (see bit in PDF where we made aircraft ribs).
    Hope its helpful and sets more on the same course.
    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Finally!

    I've just finished a run through text of how I do my Photo-etching. I'm going to try and put it into 'how to articles' section. Please let me know if you think it's useful. If so I can get some photo step by steps and add them as well. Good Etching!
    Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Doug,

    Here we have a problem!

    The only strange chemical I use is indeed Ferric Chloride. I let my youngest daughter handle it and obviously if there was an element of danger, I as a Dad wouldn't let her near it. She hasn't even managed to stain her hands yet!
    If you're still interested I'll put the steps and some pictures into a 'How To' section.
    Honest I have no problems with Ferric Chloride and nothing else is even remotely weird or hard to find (many of it in household cupboards)
    I do have a fancy laminator (Β£12.00 from Amazon!) but will detail how a standard iron can work just as well.
    Cheers Andy
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    πŸ“ Low volume or single piece photoetching
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi all,

    In exasperation at the cost of single piece photo-etch parts, I have begun using my amazing assistants to help me make them from home by little 'ol me!
    Would any members like a 'How To' of DIY Photo-etching that is not high cost and doesn't use fancy chemicals apart from one, which I bought from Amazon UK (shows how 'dangerous' it is!!)
    If members want a 'guide to' then I'm very happy to set it down and save you a lot of money and apart from the odd cock-up, it's actually good fun.
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    πŸ“ Arduino and model boats - zero to hero the easy way!!
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi All,
    Firstly I can't recommend G6SWJ tutorial on Arduino highly enough. It is a great step by step introduction to a huge world of fun. Well Done sir!

    Secondly in response to a point about Morse in Arduino, I wonder if there's a half way house for members who don't feel inclined, or maybe even terrified, about learning a whole new approach, i.e. Arduino IDE interface.
    So, at the risk of being 'shouted at', can I offer a simple Morse program, in Arduino, written as an Instructable by Chris Weatherford - to whom credit must be duly given. (There's a link below).

    I have no connection to either Mr Weatherford or Instructables, but it's a great intro if you understand a few very limited points.

    1/ Make sure your required Morse signal in placed in between the quotation marks in the line containing
    char stringToMorseCode[] = "Arduino Morse Code Project";

    2/ you do not need to put a loudspeaker in the 'loop' just put another led instead - it won't do anything, just sit there!

    3/ Experiment with the contents of the line-

    // At the end of the string long pause before looping and starting again
    LightsOff(8000);

    You will quickly see that altering the value LightsOff(8000); to something like 1000, or even 100000, will give you an idea of what 'time' really means in a program. Once you have an idea of how long something really lasts for you can even mess around with the values in the group of lines starting -
    int dotLen = 100; // length of the morse code 'dot'
    int dashLen = dotLen * 3; // length of the morse code 'dash'
    int elemPause = dotLen; // length of the pause between elements of a character
    int Spaces = dotLen * 3; // length of the spaces between characters
    int wordPause = dotLen * 7; // length of the pause between words -

    You'll see that changing 'dotLen * 14' can really affect the length of pause between words!

    Incidentally, if your Morse signal will never include some letter of the alphabet, then delete those blocks of line from your copy 'ino'.


    4/ Check your connections on the breadboard, check your typing and most of all when you copy and paste the Instructable code into the Arduino IDE, save it, and then save again with a new name (something like anomorse.ino) so that the original always exists, if fat fingers or confusion overtake you.

    5/ Enjoy!

    I really hope you all follow G6SJW's great concept, but perhaps if you wish to dive in and get a result for the cost of an Arduino Uno clone, from Ebay UK for a couple of pounds (I even saw one on Amazon UK today for Β£6.95) some leds and resistors, with a sprinkling of luck, you'll have your model signalling in no time.
    https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Morse-Code/
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    πŸ“ Arduino and model boats - zero to hero the easy way!!
    3 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Firstly, sorry for being away for so long - spent a while at the large white building with Dr's and Nurses all doing brilliantly to stabilise the old brain nasty again! Legs are truly history now, but humour is still here and in a week or two should be back to building again.

    Arduino has been a godsend for me. Disability does limit some soldering and placement skills, but I can still manoeuvre a solid wire into a hole in either a Uno or a Nano size board. So even with limits I use the digital output to control a radar rotation to very fine limits and because it is PWM it really enables extreme realism. I hook up a Nano to a relay and control anchor capstans up and down in a regular fashion (you'd be amazed at how long a time you can program a function to take), all my Morse signals are coded into a Uno and run off a repeating loop. My gun traverses on a servo (again using PWM) to a fixed position, raises the barrel, rotates back, lowers the barrel and all done with very simple code in the Arduino.

    My background ( before the brain went "tΒ£&ts up"?

    No, apart from basic many years ago, I am no computer nerd. You just need to think in steps like how do I teach an alien to open the door (step 1, define what a door is!) and be prepared to make goofs and foul-ups - normally of the slipped finger variety. there are also thousands of pre-coded libraries (or lines of program) for us to use, amend to what we need and most are licence free - true open source.
    So give it a whirl - cost is very low, mistakes don't generally 'fry' anything and rather than wishing for a 40 channel RC to give you every feature you ever wanted, get into Arduino or even Raspberry pi (sorry I'm an Arduino guy) and let your imagination run much freer.
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    πŸ“ Lockdown Complaints
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Graham93,

    Just love the binocular bolt. Wonder if anyone ever tried drilling the (in)appropriate holes?!

    Andy
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    πŸ“ Lockdown Complaints
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    jbkiwi,

    Don't forget the butchers sky hook either, we couldn't use the butcher, it was for 'posh' folk, but I do remember being asked to get an 's' shaped sky hook, to give to the local butcher!

    By the way, RookieSailor, Is Tea what we used to get when Dad dried the grass cuttings and I know what milk is, we used to get it by pretending the neighbours milk bottles had been attacked by birds!

    what's sugar anyway?!

    Andy (who seriously has no complaints, apart from the ones the special clinic is clearing up!!)
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    πŸ“ Brushed or Brushless.
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Doug,
    Talking an immense amount of sense with that post.

    I totally agree with your 'read the specs' part. With so many users buying off the web, the temptation to buy the cheapest, say, '380, or 540', straight off the shelf can cause endless problems.

    Don't assume that one brushed or brushless motor with the same 'id' and type markings is in fact the same. Stall currents and volts draw are markedly different on some of the 'low cost' options out there.

    To replace your fried ESC will always be more expensive than the time it takes to check out the spec sheet.

    You must ALWAYS have in line fuse, but remember cheapest may cost a lot more in the long run.

    Andy
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    πŸ’¬ Re: connectors for upper cabins (Water/ Electrical)
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Bruce1946,

    Purely personal view - I tend to use cheap (a couple of Β£ for 10) micro super neo magnets set into the upper deck(s), hull, lower decks with a foam seal to give extra water resistance. To electrically join upper and lower structures, I tend to use 9 or 18 way 'D' shell computer connectors - they're strong enough for repeated connection/disconnection and they are good for signal quality. You could also use cat5 cable plug and sockets. There are probably many more / better ways, but that's what I've used for multi connections and indeed if only one connecting wire is needed, they still work.
    Andy
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    πŸ“ Brushed or Brushless.
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Bill,
    As a matter of purely personal preference, I've always used good old fashioned brushed motors. I like the 'grunt', one ESC (as long as stall amps are covered) and easy to swap out if one fails- cos generally they are cheaper!
    Hope you go well with the build - I'm getting my new boat soon and am also starting build log No.1 when I get going.
    What I can say is the warmth and mountain of help from other members should ensure that any foul ups we make are dealt with via good teaching and a bit of rib tickling! Me, for one, like the humour and community that you find here.
    Andy
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    πŸ“ Brushed or Brushless.
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Bill,

    It's still a matter of personal preference:
    A trawl through the web brings up a useful basic comparison-:

    Brushed

    Low overall construction costs;
    Can often be rebuilt to extend life;
    Simple and inexpensive controller;
    Controller not needed for fixed speed;
    Ideal for extreme operating environments.

    Brushless
    Less overall maintenance due to lack of brushes;
    Operates effectively at all speeds with rated load;
    High efficiency and high output power to size ratio;
    Reduced size with far superior thermal characteristics;
    Higher speed range and lower electric noise generation.

    As for equivalence, well that depends on your use of each motor.
    All motors have specs published (amps, torque, dimensions etc). So unfortunately, whilst I haven't come across direct comparisons between brushed and brushless of the same size, it really doesn't matter because, it's what you want to do with it that will govern your choice.

    Andy
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    πŸ“ Lockdown Complaints
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I think it's also a reflection that the older generations who fought tooth and nail to give us/our younger generations unbridled freedoms never foresaw that those unbridled freedoms have recently been given with a total lack of any teaching of self-responsibility.

    Therefore all that they endured and conquered is now replaced by feelings of 'I/we deserve everything now' and 'just give it,you have no right to take anything away from me/us', oh and 'I don't need to contribute or pay in any way for anything".

    Society has, to a degree, fallen apart and I suspect the generations who gave so much for us would be ashamed of our modern day attitudes.
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    πŸ“ Opening
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Martin,

    Of course I do!,

    But even funnier is my youngest daughter will alter the voice, say when I'm asleep, and not say anything until this high pitched Barbie-style voice emits a distinctly male request!

    The other time she gets me is when (as I've done this pm) I get so involved in painting a figure (YES! I do really use my mouth to hold the brush!) and get so engrossed by what I'm trying to do that I seem to 'zone out' and when I 'return' the voice is changed. She's even found a way to make it sound a bit Scottish - great fun.

    Andy
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    πŸ“ Opening
    5 months ago by Spock66 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Colin,

    I take my hat off to you both. I know the terrible loads I place on my family - and I'm only one disabled person with, hopefully, boundless energy slightly tempered by age. So to take groups of disabled children away for breaks is truly exceptional - I hope you are rightfully proud.

    I know the efforts it took my wife and oldest daughter to get me to the boating lake at Newquay in Cornwall so that I could launch my Flower on her maiden voyage. They carried her, lowered her into the water and rescued her when it glitched (luckily still reachable with a very long pole from the hire center). All I had to do was make her move, steer her and enjoy the moment.

    Taking care of disabled people is a lot harder than being the disabled person, I've seen it from both sides and I know!

    Bless you both

    Andy
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