Hi y’all. I’m home, surgery was done Wednesday, turned out I had the 3 in 1 combo-the trans plant, cataract removal and grinding off dead cells of the cornea with a micro Dremel. Was checked out at post op Thursday, I have to be careful what I do as there’s a gas bubble in my eye to support the cornea. As it dissipates natural fluid replaces it. I’ve been told I can attempt driving this weekend, and possibly a little bench time. Probably won’t see much from me till next week.
Thanks y’all for the words of support, it means a lot !!😀👍
Cash

Hi y’all. This might be my last update for a couple of weeks. I’m scheduled for a partial cornea transplant this Wednesday. I have a thing called Fuchs Dystrophy in both eyes, and the start of a cataract in the right. Not looking forward to it but it has to be done, Fuchs is progressive and I can lose my sight over time. Anayway, depending on my recovery speed I might be back at the bench by next week, maybe two.
So, the hull is painted, and I started on the superstructure. I made the mistake of painting the main molding before I started gettin some small bits done, but I worked around it. The steps are made of the same wood that’s used to plank the deck, you’re supposed to use little pre cut abs triangles for support. I tried it Aeronauts way, didn’t like the way it was turning out, so I made supports out of triangle balsa stock. The side sliding doors and rails are installed, as is the aft towing apparatus and the vents. I built up the funnel and got that painted. I decided to use some quarter round abs that I had left over from a Robbe Paula, it made a nice lip at the end of the funnel. The funnel isn’t glued on just yet, as I have reservations about just butt gluing it to the top of the superstructure, so I added a ply insert flush with the bottom of the funnel. I’ll glue it to the superstructure and then drill it for a self tapping screw from the under side. I also did the abs “roofs” on the fwd and aft sections of the superstructure. Eventually there will be built up wooden doors at each end.
That’s about it. The finish on the cabin is dull, as I’m using a flat brown .once I get the superstructure mostly finished I’ll shoot it with a couple of coats of semigloss clear.
Cash

Hi y’all. Got a bit more done to the Kalle although I’d really doesn’t look like much. I touched up the inside rail of the bulwarks using a brush and decanted paint. Every thing was going well till I saw that I had dripped 3 spots of black paint on my wood deck. That was my lack of planning, if I’d laid down some paper to cover the wood it would have been a non issue. I panicked at first, then weighed my options. Pulling up the stained plank crossed my mind, but the planks are thin, and glued down solid. I didn’t want to have more problems tryin to fix that. So, I wiped the spot down with a bit of thinner, let that dry and sanded that spot down a bit. I then finish sanded the rest of the deck and applied 3 coats of clear bolt, sanding between coats. I then took the tip of my xacto and scraped the spots, and sanded again. I then gave the deck a coat of semi gloss clear Tamiya lacquer. I got an effect of knots or slight damage to the wood, which I can live with.
The rudder is made with 2 mahogany halves and a metal post. I sanded the wood to shape and then I glasses it, sanded, primered and paint. I then went ahead and painted the bottom of the hull to just past the waterline. This shows up and places I need to address and or fill and then I’ll touch that up, mask and paint the upper portion of the hull. Would have had more done but it took a while to fix my deck mistake.
Cash

Hi y’all. If you read the comments below Peter (Mouldbuilder) asked me if I’d have an update Friday..I said something like “probably Saturday”…and I do😀
Over the past week I reinstalled my electrics after giving the internal wood framework a water resistant coating, and I got the deck attached. Now, I’ve heard and read that some people think ABS and epoxy don’t play well together.I used epoxy for ABS for sometime now, never had any issues till this. I used my go-to, Bob Smith Industries 15 minute epoxy for attaching the deck. It seemed to work like always…but…when I cut the excess deck away from the hull, I could hear the epoxy crack, and the joint loosen. The epoxy stayed in place, but the joint failed. I either got a bad mix, used too much or I added too much filler. Also, I used my RC car body trimming scissors instead of scorin the excess which might have stressed the joint. In any case I just used medium ca on the failed joint, reclamped and it’s good.
So…decks on. Internals done. This morning after my grocery run, and a little bath for my Abarth, I set out to do something I’ve never done…plank the deck.😮
First thing I had to do was add the coaming for the superstructure. I then set about the planking. I had scuffed the deck, and proceeded give it a go. It turned out better than I expected. I was hesitant, but followed the instructions. I found the best glue to lay the strips down was a thin line of medium ca. now, you’re supposed to space the planks .5 mm apart, I said to myself…nope. I did the best I could, and butt joined the planks against each other. I have a couple of spots that have a slight gap, but when I finish sand the deck then poly it that will go away a bit.
I then prepared the bulwarks. I decided the easiest route to go was to prepainted the inner surface first, then mask and paint the outer side. I still have to hand paint the upper inside edge of the “rail”. Once that wa dry I glued her down. I still have to go along the bottom edge of the flange and sand flush with the deck/hull joint, but I’m happy with the results.
Next up-poly the deck and hull paint.

Hi y’all. I was lucky enough to sell a few kits I decided not to build, I got them over the past couple of years doing trades with my local club members. This allowed me to buy a few things for myself for Christmas without touching the family budget, and we could splurge a bit more on family and friends. Of course, there’s no surprise, but then again its easier on my wife…she jumped thru hoops one year to get me a PAW diesel when I was still flying. She said it was an “adventure”..😁
Anyway, once everything was said and done I had an Aeronaut Kalle under the tree. I resisted the temptation to look at the kit before Christmas morning, and told myself I’d start on it later in the new year. Yep, 3 days after Christmas I had her on the bench. I’m an addict…😂
The Kalle is a nice kit. There’s some decent fittings, the wood is good, the hull, deck, part of the superstructure and deck are molded well from abs. It really and truly looks like a beginners kit, but there’s more to meet the eye with the Kalle.
First thing I did was to cut the superstructure and bulwarks away from the molding. They are molded as one u it, and Aeronaut has very specific instructions on this procedure so the builder doesn’t cut off what looks like scrap. I rough trimmed the plastic parts for the time being.
The next step was to laminate and glue up the keel…and this is where I start to deviate from the instructions. You see, this kit is an original Kalle, which has been superseded by the Kalle II. The plans on my kit show a captured rudder, where the KalleII has a removable shoe. I decided to mod my keel to the later variant. I made that decision AFTER gluing the keel to the hull😮. It would have been easier to effect this change if the keel want glued on, but I have a Dremel…..I turned out better than I had hoped. With the shoe cut out I built up the rudder and did a kind of hybrid install between my kit and the new variant. I also countersunk the screw holes I drilled for the shoe attach screws. Once I had everything jigged up I went ahead and installed the rudder tube. The rudder is wood, I think I’m going to glass it for a better, sturdier finish.
I then turned my attention to the tube and motor mount. This is where it get interesting, the plans show a box frame installed in the hull, and a geared brushed motor bolted down to a lower plate. The newer kit includes a bulkhead mount for mounting either a brushed motor or brushless outrunner. The wood parts in my kit included that mount. There’s no mention of this part in either th instructions or plans, and in the call out illustration that part is not shown in the frame sheet…but it’s there. So..I went that route.
The motor I’m using is the same one I used in my Taucher, a Zippkits 650KV 36 mm outrunner. This is a good motor, pleanty of power without the usual higher RPM one usually sees in motors this size.I built up the frame with the bulkhead mount, and used the motor to jig up the stuffing box. Once I was satisfied with the alignment I epoxied everything down, then built a servo mount on the side of the frame for the rudder servo. The receiver and esc will be Velcro mounted to opposite sides. I then uninstalled the electronics so I could give the wood parts a coat of waterproof finish.
That’s where I’m at now, next go-around I’ll reinstall my electrics then start the deck install, then I have to plank the deck.
Cash