This is a Zulu class Scottish Fishing Vessel (drifter).
It's going to be "scratch built" from free plan with model boat magazine. These vessels started off as sailing vessels and later in the Nineteenth century fitted with internal combustion engines.
These vessels were mainly built in Scottish East Coast yards, and were used for catching herring on that coast.

There is only one in existence in Scotland and that is housed in the Scottish Fisheries Museum at Anstruther,Fife

The hull build is going to be planked on frame. I have decided to build this upside down with the keel to the top.
I have prepared a solid base board to which to attached the frames.
Having photo copied the body plan, I cut out a pattern for each frame and glued them to 4mm Birch plywood.
To allow the hull to be built upside down, I worked out the room need above the frames for suitable fixings.
I then glued the templates, ensuring the keel bottom line remained consistent.
The nineteen frames were then cut out using a scroll saw.
Some examples are shown.

The frames have been cut out above deck level, well above the height of the side rails. These will be trimmed to require height when hull freed from the base board.
Note, I have left the keel section in place at the moment as a frame reference point.
During the cutting of the frames, I checked the frame width between the plan view and the hull profile as this did not look right.
I decided to alter the profiles to match the plan view. Will have to wait and see if this was the correct thing to do.
Couple of frame examples show in pics.

I am using wood that is lying about my garage, so I cut out all the parts from the tracings, measurements from the drawings. I made the keel about 5mm higher so that I could slot in the frames.
I used waterproof wood glue to secure the parts together.
Slotted out the keel as described above and cut the rabbit for the hull planking.
I found this quite difficult to maintain a neat edge. Never done this before!

Fitted frames loosely on to the keel. checking to see if the tops look level and that the deck levels look ok.
For some reason I had to adjust frame four. I checked against the drawing ,was ok, but it was obviously not right. I had to drop it by 10mm and trim off some off the bottom of the frame.
Now have to cut out the frame internals.

Frames now fully cut out, cleaned up ready for fitting of mounting blocks to secure them to the base board.

Frames now fitted with mounting blocks, ready for mounting to the base board.
Some examples shown on photographs.

Now comes the exciting bit, putting the hull together, hopefully!
First I fixed the frames to the base board using screws, trying to keep frame in line using the centre line marked on the base board and the centre line of the frames.
I found a few frames at keel height were not straight how ever a small error at the base fixing is amplified so a bit of sanding to correct this.
Once fairly happy with the line of the frames, I fitted the keel.
This was a bit fiddly but whoopee , it went well. Just had to adjust the keel slots in the two stern frames, not deep enough.
Next step is to block fill the bow and stern sections.
Also I think I have to strengthen the area around the prop for fitting a drive shaft.

Using lime blocks filled in stern and bow section. Cut out the prop area in the stern post, note the strengthening blocks.
Drilled out the prop shaft tunnel. These was achieved by first drilling a pilot hole then enlarged it ,in stages using larger drills however I had to have a few goes to get the rake of the prop shaft correct.

Ripped out planks from mahogany boards from window facings using a band saw.
After sanding each plank is glued and pinned to the frames. Working two planks at a time on each side to balance any stress on the hull.
I am not too worried about the finish as I intend to skim the hull using car filler where required.