Does the question then become:
If it is adrift is it underway?
Adrift CAN be underway, but isn't necessarily underway. (any sea lawyers out there??)
If it was adrift I certainly would want to see and hear lights and horn
Re-reading the explanation of why A is wrong, the reason actually says it is Underway and so must be right.
The fight is on again, never trusted AI since my GP put me on to a computer diagnosis and advice APP on my laptop. Load of old rubbish it was, it would ask questions and ignore my answers!
Roy
Re-reading the explanation of why A is wrong, the reason actually says it is Underway and so must be right.
The fight is on again, never trusted AI since my GP put me on to a computer diagnosis and advice APP on my laptop. Load of old rubbish it was, it would ask questions and ignore my answers!
I agree A is right and D according to the definition.
When is a vessel underway?
It’s a simple and important definition: a vessel is underway when it is NOT at anchor, aground, or made fast to the shore. Dragging anchor or drifting is underway; engine on or off doesn’t matter. When a vessel is underway the Navigation Rules apply. As soon as you lift the anchor out of the seabed (or it drags), or the boat starts floating after being aground, or you cast off the mooring or dock lines your boat is underway.
I rest my case!
Roy
I agree A is right and D according to the definition.
When is a vessel underway?
It’s a simple and important definition: a vessel is underway when it is NOT at anchor, aground, or made fast to the shore. Dragging anchor or drifting is underway; engine on or off doesn’t matter. When a vessel is underway the Navigation Rules apply. As soon as you lift the anchor out of the seabed (or it drags), or the boat starts floating after being aground, or you cast off the mooring or dock lines your boat is underway.
Pat, regarding the score, I need to find an old post from Doug, where he explains it very well to another member of this forum.
Anyway, it goes something like this.
100% refers to all thirty days (thirty dashes).
Green dashes are correct answers, red dashes are incorrect answers, and gray dashes are unanswered questions.
Starting from 100%, if you get an answer wrong today your score will drop to 97%.
In fact
30:29=100:x
x=29x100/30=96.67 (approximately 97%)
30:1=100:x
furthermore
x=100/30=3.3333333 (the percentage work to be removed for each incorrect or unanswered question)
so, for example, six incorrect or unanswered answers will be equivalent to:
30:24=100:x
X=24x100/30=80% (as in your case).
On the left is the dash of the most recent answer, while on the right is the oldest. The dashes run from left to right.
If you get it wrong just once and you were already at 100%, you will have to get all your answers right for thirty days in a row to get back to 100%.
Pat, regarding the score, I need to find an old post from Doug, where he explains it very well to another member of this forum.
Anyway, it goes something like this.
100% refers to all thirty days (thirty dashes).
Green dashes are correct answers, red dashes are incorrect answers, and gray dashes are unanswered questions.
Starting from 100%, if you get an answer wrong today your score will drop to 97%.
In fact
30:29=100:x
x=29x100/30=96.67 (approximately 97%)
30:1=100:x
furthermore
x=100/30=3.3333333 (the percentage work to be removed for each incorrect or unanswered question)
so, for example, six incorrect or unanswered answers will be equivalent to:
30:24=100:x
X=24x100/30=80% (as in your case).
On the left is the dash of the most recent answer, while on the right is the oldest. The dashes run from left to right.
If you get it wrong just once and you were already at 100%, you will have to get all your answers right for thirty days in a row to get back to 100%.
Don't understand this algorithm another question right but down 2 positions now in two hours - perhaps one of the questions on QoD should be how does the scoring work LOL
Like people say it's that taking part that counts - can help thinking it would be better run by a human tho
Don't understand this algorithm another question right but down 2 positions now in two hours - perhaps one of the questions on QoD should be how does the scoring work LOL
Like people say it's that taking part that counts - can help thinking it would be better run by a human tho
Hi Roy, if you are referring to terms used by traders (especially on the web) I wouldn't trust them too much ( as I already wrote in message 4272).
With the term universal joint I have seen that different types of joints are marketed, without distinction (and this can be misleading).
To give a key to understanding, I have defined a Cardan joint as a single joint (a single cross) while I have defined a universal joint as a double joint (with two crosses).
With the first it is not possible to obtain a homokinetic situation, with the second it is (respecting the condition of the angles I spoke about).
Hi Roy, if you are referring to terms used by traders (especially on the web) I wouldn't trust them too much ( as I already wrote in message 4272).
With the term universal joint I have seen that different types of joints are marketed, without distinction (and this can be misleading).
To give a key to understanding, I have defined a Cardan joint as a single joint (a single cross) while I have defined a universal joint as a double joint (with two crosses).
With the first it is not possible to obtain a homokinetic situation, with the second it is (respecting the condition of the angles I spoke about).
However, I do agree that interesting threads get lost in the many posts under Q o D.
Perhaps it is time to make a clear subject for different posts. The system does send all posts for all to see and it is easy to be selective.
Any comments (Perhaps under a different subject heading)😉😉
Roy
Alessandro you mentioned the word Cardan.
I remembered that there was a u/j type extending coupling under this name which was marketted some years ago. It did not seem like your description of the same.
Just keeping members informed.
Roy
I remembered that there was a u/j type extending coupling under this name which was marketted some years ago. It did not seem like your description of the same.
Just keeping members informed.
Roy
Belgian friend, it is a fantastic sloop. I admire and envy your experience.
In my opinion, the length of 13 meters is ideal, because it allows you to have a comfortable environment for a family but, at the same time, you can navigate independently and feel the boat is truly yours.
However, here, at least in Italy and for me, it is better to stay under ten meters to have acceptable costs.
Of course, it depends on each person's finances. There are those who can easily afford even more than 13 meters.
Belgian friend, it is a fantastic sloop. I admire and envy your experience.
In my opinion, the length of 13 meters is ideal, because it allows you to have a comfortable environment for a family but, at the same time, you can navigate independently and feel the boat is truly yours.
However, here, at least in Italy and for me, it is better to stay under ten meters to have acceptable costs.
Of course, it depends on each person's finances. There are those who can easily afford even more than 13 meters.
Allessandro amigo italiano
I have been sailing a 43 foot HR so this one wasn’t thzt difficult
Thank you and enjoy the tropical warmth at least inafrican Belgium
Allessandro amigo italiano
I have been sailing a 43 foot HR so this one wasn’t thzt difficult
Thank you and enjoy the tropical warmth at least inafrican Belgium
Hi Roy, as you prefer, even if I didn't understand exactly.
I have never tried homokinetic joints for ship modeling.
In this case I mean those already built as homokinetic. Usually they use spherical parts.
As I already said in message 4272, I believe that joints of this type are not very resistant and effective (but I want to try them sooner or later).
The real ones for cars are very complex, made of steel and well lubricated.
Currently, if I had to choose a joint for two non-aligned axes I would opt for a universal joint (two cardan joints in series that form two equal and opposite angles, therefore positioning the axes on parallel planes).
In any case, if I can, I prefer to align the engine axis with the propeller axis and use a fixed joint.
Hi Roy, as you prefer, even if I didn't understand exactly.
I have never tried homokinetic joints for ship modeling.
In this case I mean those already built as homokinetic. Usually they use spherical parts.
As I already said in message 4272, I believe that joints of this type are not very resistant and effective (but I want to try them sooner or later).
The real ones for cars are very complex, made of steel and well lubricated.
Currently, if I had to choose a joint for two non-aligned axes I would opt for a universal joint (two cardan joints in series that form two equal and opposite angles, therefore positioning the axes on parallel planes).
In any case, if I can, I prefer to align the engine axis with the propeller axis and use a fixed joint.
OK Alessandro but I prefer a thread that has easy additions I rarely read the "fixed" ones. I agree with a previous post that new threads should be started with new subjects.
A few decades ago there was a u/j called a Cardan coupling. There is a photo here and the centre part is a sliding connection but the u/j parts are in effect parallel. I was going to use it but after checking it is not strong enough. When it fails one of the "clasps" around a joint pops off so it can be reassembled.
I think it was meant to be part of another item which is a rtr prop shaft and propeller that moves the blades from forward into reverse by sliding the shaft via a lever frame. This could be moved linearly with a standard servo and give full speed forward then centralised to a neutral position and then half speed in reverse. It would suit a Taycol motor that did not have reverse.
I have one of these but never used it. I will have a look for it and put up a photo.
Roy
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OK Alessandro but I prefer a thread that has easy additions I rarely read the "fixed" ones. I agree with a previous post that new threads should be started with new subjects.
A few decades ago there was a u/j called a Cardan coupling. There is a photo here and the centre part is a sliding connection but the u/j parts are in effect parallel. I was going to use it but after checking it is not strong enough. When it fails one of the "clasps" around a joint pops off so it can be reassembled.
I think it was meant to be part of another item which is a rtr prop shaft and propeller that moves the blades from forward into reverse by sliding the shaft via a lever frame. This could be moved linearly with a standard servo and give full speed forward then centralised to a neutral position and then half speed in reverse. It would suit a Taycol motor that did not have reverse.
I have one of these but never used it. I will have a look for it and put up a photo.
Roy
Hi Roy, I would be very happy to include your contribution. If you want, write the text here. I will copy and paste it into the article. Of course I will write that this is your contribution.
Hi Roy, I would be very happy to include your contribution. If you want, write the text here. I will copy and paste it into the article. Of course I will write that this is your contribution.
Alessandro you have re-posted a piece on cardan joints. I have a contribution but cannot add to your choice of heading without going into your post and revising it.
Roy
Alessandro you have re-posted a piece on cardan joints. I have a contribution but cannot add to your choice of heading without going into your post and revising it.
Roy
Consider yourself lucky Pat, I go on holiday for a few days without internet and the score plummets. Must be more ruthless and avoid holidays at all costs, exceot where fully connected !!
Consider yourself lucky Pat, I go on holiday for a few days without internet and the score plummets. Must be more ruthless and avoid holidays at all costs, exceot where fully connected !!
Here is the story of how the dolos was invented and how the inventors boss claimed the recognition for the invention.
Nowadays you will find them on most South African breakwaters an in most harbours you will find the metal moulds to make them.
The idea has spread world wide.
https://www.facebook.com/100064355032692/posts/pfbid024W4HJ7BsxBptPRJKcL9WroChx32SQyiX2sxBsDfbLKZoX3iBPo8tzBcSg1Ar4Aral/?
Here is the story of how the dolos was invented and how the inventors boss claimed the recognition for the invention.
Nowadays you will find them on most South African breakwaters an in most harbours you will find the metal moulds to make them.
The idea has spread world wide.
Should you need to shorten a screwed shaft use a metal saw. But first run a nut onto the thread and then saw the screwed end to size.
A gentle clean up for swarf on the end and then unscrew the nut and this will clean up any damaged thread.
Roy
Personal view:
As I mentioned elsewhere on this site, I spent 29 years on snowplow duty in Canada (somedays it could be as crazy as you can imagine). The equipment we used were 4 x 4 pickup trucks. The front wheel drive was using CV joints between the front turning wheels and the front axle. As explained by Roy and Alessandro, the extreme angle between the axle and a front wheel during a turn made the CV joint feature a requirement. If the CV joint failed the hammering coming from the front end would quickly let the driver know. When someone would ask where the CV joint was on the truck, I would know to point to the in side of the front turning wheels. Until today, I never knew WHY they worked so well👍
As I mentioned elsewhere on this site, I spent 29 years on snowplow duty in Canada (somedays it could be as crazy as you can imagine). The equipment we used were 4 x 4 pickup trucks. The front wheel drive was using CV joints between the front turning wheels and the front axle. As explained by Roy and Alessandro, the extreme angle between the axle and a front wheel during a turn made the CV joint feature a requirement. If the CV joint failed the hammering coming from the front end would quickly let the driver know. When someone would ask where the CV joint was on the truck, I would know to point to the in side of the front turning wheels. Until today, I never knew WHY they worked so well👍
Force nothing, waste nothing, leave nothing undone
When alining the Huco coupling I used a short length of old gas pipe tube, not the current type but if removing the old stuff, put some by as it is slightly greater diameter than current gas tube.
The biggest problem is to get the brass ends sitting absolutely squarely on the shafts. The screwed shafts are the more difficult. With a clean threading on a prop shaft I would place a thickish washer over the thread but too narrow to go over the shaft plain tube.
Then lock this up squarely with a tight fitting nut forcing it against the washer face.
Then place another washer to fit against the tightened nut, then screw the Huco coupling onto this to form a locknut.
This should keep the Huco coupling parallel with the screwed shaft.
There is less problem with the smooth fit of plain hole locating as tightly as possible over the motor shaft. But when doing up the grub screw make sure it does not distort the true fit of the Huco brass part. It can cause the brass part to hump.
A possible solution is to file a slot on the motor shaft and screw a grub screw down and just touching the shaft and then screw a second grub screw down to lock it in place.
It will seem a little loose but it will not come off the shaft.
If any part of the plastic fitting over the splined part of the coupling is waving about when rotating there will be vibration and noise.
As I said earlier I use a plastic tube insert which reduces the effect of misalignment and decreases vibration.
Roy
When alining the Huco coupling I used a short length of old gas pipe tube, not the current type but if removing the old stuff, put some by as it is slightly greater diameter than current gas tube.
The biggest problem is to get the brass ends sitting absolutely squarely on the shafts. The screwed shafts are the more difficult. With a clean threading on a prop shaft I would place a thickish washer over the thread but too narrow to go over the shaft plain tube.
Then lock this up squarely with a tight fitting nut forcing it against the washer face.
Then place another washer to fit against the tightened nut, then screw the Huco coupling onto this to form a locknut.
This should keep the Huco coupling parallel with the screwed shaft.
There is less problem with the smooth fit of plain hole locating as tightly as possible over the motor shaft. But when doing up the grub screw make sure it does not distort the true fit of the Huco brass part. It can cause the brass part to hump.
A possible solution is to file a slot on the motor shaft and screw a grub screw down and just touching the shaft and then screw a second grub screw down to lock it in place.
It will seem a little loose but it will not come off the shaft.
If any part of the plastic fitting over the splined part of the coupling is waving about when rotating there will be vibration and noise.
As I said earlier I use a plastic tube insert which reduces the effect of misalignment and decreases vibration.
Good evening to all the
naval modellers of the question of the day.
Your answers are to be considered all correct, however I will give what seems to me the most accurate correct answer.
I will first provide the concise answer and then the explanation (avoiding the mathematical formulas that many do not like), finally a summary with the practical aspects for modeling.
Since it is a forum if I write inaccuracies anyone can correct them or integrate the text with other information.
The single or simple joint (what in Italian we call a "cardanic" joint but that Google persists in translating incorrectly as a universal joint) is the one in images 1, 2 and 3.
Be careful, many sellers (especially online) call the cardanic joint a universal joint. This is wrong.
To the first question: "Using a single joint, what problems could it cause?"
The short answer is:
"The problem is that it causes vibrations. Consequently, also more noise.
The vibrations are greater the more accentuated the angle between the axes and the higher the rotation speed. The vibrations are a direct consequence of the different rotation speed, since the cardanic joint is not a constant velocity joint (homokinetic).
In the cardanic joint, unlike the homokinetic one, the instantaneous angular velocity (note "instantaneous") of the driven shaft is not constant during a complete rotation. Logically, the average rotation speeds of the two shafts are the same."
Let's see why in more detail.
The cardanic joint is an exceptional element because it allows the rotation to be transmitted between two axes that are on different planes and therefore form a certain angle between them (see figure 4).
In Italy we call it "Giunto Cardanico" or simply "Cardano", from the Italian mathematician Gerolamo Cardano (1501-1576), who rediscovered it in 1545. In reality, the invention of this type of joint dates back to at least the 3rd century BC, by Greek scientists such as Philo of Byzantium.
It is based on a fundamental central element with four axes called "cross" (see animation 5).
It has multiple uses: from the joints of mechanical keys to the steering axis. In all uses where speeds are not relevant or where few turns are made, no problem is encountered.
As already mentioned, however, at high speeds there will be vibrations, because the instantaneous angular velocity of the driven shaft is not constant during a complete rotation. Certainly the two axes will complete a complete turn in the same time, but in completing the turn there will be accelerations and decelerations.
Without writing formulas, it is enough to know that the transmission ratio is directly related to the angle formed by the two axes (figure 4), the conductor and the duct (i.e. the motor axis and the propeller axis in our case).
In the first graph (figure 6) you can see the trend over time (x-axis abscissa) of the angular velocity (y-axis ordinate) of two joined and perfectly aligned axes. The straight line tells us that, over time, the angular velocity (revolutions per minute, rpm) does not change, it is constant.
In the second graph (figure 7) you can see the trend over time (x-axis abscissa) of the angular velocity (y-axis ordinate) of two joined axes with a certain angle between them. The sinusoidal curve tells us that over time the angular velocity (revolutions per minute, rpm) changes, it is not constant. In some points it is maximum and then drops to the minimum level in a continuous cycle. Therefore, the angular velocity is different from moment to moment. It is clear that the average of the sinusoid corresponds to the value of the straight line.
Let's get to the second question:
"What could be a valid solution and why?"
The answer is:
First possible solution.
"put a second joint"
but it's not enough.
I've noticed that many recommend it and limit themselves to this.
It is important that the angles of the engine and propeller axes with the central axis (alpha 1 and alpha 2) are equal but opposite. Look at figures 8 and 9.
In this way the sinusoids will cancel each other out.
See third graph, figure 10.
In fact two Cardan Joints constitute a constant velocity joint (I think it can be defined as a double joint or universal joint, see image 11)
Second solution:
Use a constant velocity [ homokinetic ] joint (see figure 12 and animation 13)
The constant velocity joint is the one used for example in the wheel axles of cars (see image 14).
In modeling I have never used them but I think many call them "dog bones" (with quite limited performance and resistance).
It is essentially based on mobile spherical rotations that guarantee constant instantaneous speed.
They need continuous lubrication (the real ones) and allow a lower phase angle than the Cardan joint.
Considerations and practical advice.
1. If we can, it is better to look for a perfect alignment between the propeller shaft and the engine shaft.
In this case, it is better to put a fixed connection (without a joint), because the fixed connection will let us know if we are not well aligned and we will be able to correct the positions (we will act more easily on the electric motor).
The Cardan joint, on the other hand, will adapt to small misalignments (deletive and useless) and we could finally have positioned the axes with a slight (not very evident and visible) misalignment.
2. If we are forced to use a joint, for example because the engine is in a high position and we do not want to tilt the propeller shaft (in short, we want to keep it as parallel as possible to the keel), it is not convenient to use a Cardan joint as in figure 15, for the reasons already mentioned.
We can put two joints in series so that the phase shift angles are identical (Image 16). We will thus create a homokinetic joint.
To create two equal alpha angles is not difficult, you do not need a goniometer. Knowing the geometry and the properties of the angles we will use a universal joint (double joint) and we will make sure that the axis of the motor and the axis of the propeller are parallel (again image 16).
If I was not clear please tell me.
Anyone can add their personal experience.
I still have to study the behavior and experiment with connections with semi-rigid cables in harmonic steel or other material.
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Good evening to all the
naval modellers of the question of the day.
Your answers are to be considered all correct, however I will give what seems to me the most accurate correct answer.
I will first provide the concise answer and then the explanation (avoiding the mathematical formulas that many do not like), finally a summary with the practical aspects for modeling.
Since it is a forum if I write inaccuracies anyone can correct them or integrate the text with other information.
The single or simple joint (what in Italian we call a "cardanic" joint but that Google persists in translating incorrectly as a universal joint) is the one in images 1, 2 and 3.
Be careful, many sellers (especially online) call the cardanic joint a universal joint. This is wrong.
To the first question: "Using a single joint, what problems could it cause?"
The short answer is:
"The problem is that it causes vibrations. Consequently, also more noise.
The vibrations are greater the more accentuated the angle between the axes and the higher the rotation speed. The vibrations are a direct consequence of the different rotation speed, since the cardanic joint is not a constant velocity joint (homokinetic).
In the cardanic joint, unlike the homokinetic one, the instantaneous angular velocity (note "instantaneous") of the driven shaft is not constant during a complete rotation. Logically, the average rotation speeds of the two shafts are the same."
Let's see why in more detail.
The cardanic joint is an exceptional element because it allows the rotation to be transmitted between two axes that are on different planes and therefore form a certain angle between them (see figure 4).
In Italy we call it "Giunto Cardanico" or simply "Cardano", from the Italian mathematician Gerolamo Cardano (1501-1576), who rediscovered it in 1545. In reality, the invention of this type of joint dates back to at least the 3rd century BC, by Greek scientists such as Philo of Byzantium.
It is based on a fundamental central element with four axes called "cross" (see animation 5).
It has multiple uses: from the joints of mechanical keys to the steering axis. In all uses where speeds are not relevant or where few turns are made, no problem is encountered.
As already mentioned, however, at high speeds there will be vibrations, because the instantaneous angular velocity of the driven shaft is not constant during a complete rotation. Certainly the two axes will complete a complete turn in the same time, but in completing the turn there will be accelerations and decelerations.
Without writing formulas, it is enough to know that the transmission ratio is directly related to the angle formed by the two axes (figure 4), the conductor and the duct (i.e. the motor axis and the propeller axis in our case).
In the first graph (figure 6) you can see the trend over time (x-axis abscissa) of the angular velocity (y-axis ordinate) of two joined and perfectly aligned axes. The straight line tells us that, over time, the angular velocity (revolutions per minute, rpm) does not change, it is constant.
In the second graph (figure 7) you can see the trend over time (x-axis abscissa) of the angular velocity (y-axis ordinate) of two joined axes with a certain angle between them. The sinusoidal curve tells us that over time the angular velocity (revolutions per minute, rpm) changes, it is not constant. In some points it is maximum and then drops to the minimum level in a continuous cycle. Therefore, the angular velocity is different from moment to moment. It is clear that the average of the sinusoid corresponds to the value of the straight line.
Let's get to the second question:
"What could be a valid solution and why?"
The answer is:
First possible solution.
"put a second joint"
but it's not enough.
I've noticed that many recommend it and limit themselves to this.
It is important that the angles of the engine and propeller axes with the central axis (alpha 1 and alpha 2) are equal but opposite. Look at figures 8 and 9.
In this way the sinusoids will cancel each other out.
See third graph, figure 10.
In fact two Cardan Joints constitute a constant velocity joint (I think it can be defined as a double joint or universal joint, see image 11)
Second solution:
Use a constant velocity [ homokinetic ] joint (see figure 12 and animation 13)
The constant velocity joint is the one used for example in the wheel axles of cars (see image 14).
In modeling I have never used them but I think many call them "dog bones" (with quite limited performance and resistance).
It is essentially based on mobile spherical rotations that guarantee constant instantaneous speed.
They need continuous lubrication (the real ones) and allow a lower phase angle than the Cardan joint.
Considerations and practical advice.
1. If we can, it is better to look for a perfect alignment between the propeller shaft and the engine shaft.
In this case, it is better to put a fixed connection (without a joint), because the fixed connection will let us know if we are not well aligned and we will be able to correct the positions (we will act more easily on the electric motor).
The Cardan joint, on the other hand, will adapt to small misalignments (deletive and useless) and we could finally have positioned the axes with a slight (not very evident and visible) misalignment.
2. If we are forced to use a joint, for example because the engine is in a high position and we do not want to tilt the propeller shaft (in short, we want to keep it as parallel as possible to the keel), it is not convenient to use a Cardan joint as in figure 15, for the reasons already mentioned.
We can put two joints in series so that the phase shift angles are identical (Image 16). We will thus create a homokinetic joint.
To create two equal alpha angles is not difficult, you do not need a goniometer. Knowing the geometry and the properties of the angles we will use a universal joint (double joint) and we will make sure that the axis of the motor and the axis of the propeller are parallel (again image 16).
If I was not clear please tell me.
Anyone can add their personal experience.
I still have to study the behavior and experiment with connections with semi-rigid cables in harmonic steel or other material.
Hi all. I was just thinking (dangerous for me) we are doing a lot of chatting in the Question of the Day section. Would we not be better in the forum section under Chit Chat hobby or otherwise? If we were there would we still get notifications?
Hi all. I was just thinking (dangerous for me) we are doing a lot of chatting in the Question of the Day section. Would we not be better in the forum section under Chit Chat hobby or otherwise? If we were there would we still get notifications?
After all these decades, somebody finally explained what a CV Joint is. I first meet them in 1989 in the front wheel drive axles in 4 x 4 pickup trucks. Thank you Roy👍
Yes, they were different than the drive shaft u-joints
After all these decades, somebody finally explained what a CV Joint is. I first meet them in 1989 in the front wheel drive axles in 4 x 4 pickup trucks. Thank you Roy👍
Yes, they were different than the drive shaft u-joints
Force nothing, waste nothing, leave nothing undone
Regarding post 4272 a U/J is not a constant velocity joint. If you drive it with your fingers and increase the angle you can see that the o/p shaft goes around in jerks some faster than the i/p and then compensating with the slower side.
Since this was brought to my attention I have ditched the centre pieces, and keep the brass parts and now use a thick wall tubing, feels like neoprene.
This is cut to length and first warmed with hot water and then fitted between the brass units the splined shafts make a good connection, and keep the angles as shallow as possible.
The result is also quieter, I agree that this is a solution at the lower end of power but suits my models fine.
Roy
Regarding post 4272 a U/J is not a constant velocity joint. If you drive it with your fingers and increase the angle you can see that the o/p shaft goes around in jerks some faster than the i/p and then compensating with the slower side.
Since this was brought to my attention I have ditched the centre pieces, and keep the brass parts and now use a thick wall tubing, feels like neoprene.
This is cut to length and first warmed with hot water and then fitted between the brass units the splined shafts make a good connection, and keep the angles as shallow as possible.
The result is also quieter, I agree that this is a solution at the lower end of power but suits my models fine.
Roy
Hi Ross, it doesn't matter really as I never have a problem these days. When I discovered the problem it was on my 48" Perkasa with a 5mm shaft running a 4084 620Kv motor to a two blade 46mm prop. It has been running fine for at least 10 years now..👍
Hi Ross, it doesn't matter really as I never have a problem these days. When I discovered the problem it was on my 48" Perkasa with a 5mm shaft running a 4084 620Kv motor to a two blade 46mm prop. It has been running fine for at least 10 years now..👍
I agree with RossM, and I set my single universal joint/couplings up with a slide over brass tube as well. However I no longer use UJ's made from plastic in anything above 10,000 RPM, and I have never found a good quality precision engineered metal UJ. So now it is flexi shaft or very accurately aligned solid connectors. The reason I no longer use plastic in high speed is because the torque that can be given (On fast starts) by brushless motors can cause the fingers to open and the brass centre just pops out, giving loss of drive. (These were good quality couplings as well) My temporary solution was to put some heat shrink round the centre to stop the brass part flying out. 😀
I agree with RossM, and I set my single universal joint/couplings up with a slide over brass tube as well. However I no longer use UJ's made from plastic in anything above 10,000 RPM, and I have never found a good quality precision engineered metal UJ. So now it is flexi shaft or very accurately aligned solid connectors. The reason I no longer use plastic in high speed is because the torque that can be given (On fast starts) by brushless motors can cause the fingers to open and the brass centre just pops out, giving loss of drive. (These were good quality couplings as well) My temporary solution was to put some heat shrink round the centre to stop the brass part flying out. 😀
I may have misused the term DOUBLE UNIVERSAL JOINT. I was thinking about 2 single universal joint, one on each end of a shaft. This would join the output shaft of the motor to the input shaft of the work-to-be-done. This works well in large heavy applications.
This 2 single universal joint system often includes a sliding shaft, where one half of the shaft is sliding inside the other half of the shaft. This can allow for the changes in distance between the end of the output shaft and the beginning of the work-to-be-done shaft caused by twisting of motor or work-to-be-done
I may have misused the term DOUBLE UNIVERSAL JOINT. I was thinking about 2 single universal joint, one on each end of a shaft. This would join the output shaft of the motor to the input shaft of the work-to-be-done. This works well in large heavy applications.
This 2 single universal joint system often includes a sliding shaft, where one half of the shaft is sliding inside the other half of the shaft. This can allow for the changes in distance between the end of the output shaft and the beginning of the work-to-be-done shaft caused by twisting of motor or work-to-be-done
Force nothing, waste nothing, leave nothing undone
SimpleSailor wrote: " I assume this was a rhetorical question and you don't actually need help ".
Of course, when we ask the question, we need to have the answer ready.
SimpleSailor wrote: " I assume this was a rhetorical question and you don't actually need help ".
Of course, when we ask the question, we need to have the answer ready.
Hi SimpleSailor, in the question I asked I am referring to the single joint (simple universal joint NOT double universal joint), which is the one that gives problems.
What are these problems and what are the possible solutions is the question.
I hope I was clear and did not make a mistake with the translation.
Hi SimpleSailor, in the question I asked I am referring to the single joint (simple universal joint NOT double universal joint), which is the one that gives problems.
What are these problems and what are the possible solutions is the question.
I hope I was clear and did not make a mistake with the translation.