Detachable deck
Merchant, I’d like to add my two cents to answer your inquiry about securing the hatch.
I used the same small rare-earth magnets that *Ianpat* recommended. For the metal, I used a piece of galvanized hurricane tie, cut it down to the required size and then covered it with a 1/32" sheet of plywood.
The adhesion between the magnets and the galvanized metal is fantastic, and the hatch stays firmly in place while still being easy to remove when access is needed.
Here is a series of pictures showing how I did it, step by step.
I used the same small rare-earth magnets that *Ianpat* recommended. For the metal, I used a piece of galvanized hurricane tie, cut it down to the required size and then covered it with a 1/32" sheet of plywood.
The adhesion between the magnets and the galvanized metal is fantastic, and the hatch stays firmly in place while still being easy to remove when access is needed.
Here is a series of pictures showing how I did it, step by step.
There are so many different ways to attach an opening (removable hatch, deck, structure, etc.) to the hull. All depends on what you want to hold down, what it is, how tight (waterproof?), shape, etc. Without showing what you want to do it is impossible o recommend any particular method. I have boats that use magnets, friction fit, gravity, screws, latches springs, etc. So many different ways. The main idea is that it is concealed!
Added: My 42 inch Schnellboot boat has multiple ways to get inside. The manufacture's plans showed one massive removable deck section with ugly plastic hold down tabs and screws. Check the photo and you will see the various section openings. (This also makes the hull stronger. Downside is it is a tight access, but several months I managed to do a complete re-build. Battery access is not too bad but I usually do that at home. Power switches are under the pilot house which has a snug (friction) fit.
Added: My 42 inch Schnellboot boat has multiple ways to get inside. The manufacture's plans showed one massive removable deck section with ugly plastic hold down tabs and screws. Check the photo and you will see the various section openings. (This also makes the hull stronger. Downside is it is a tight access, but several months I managed to do a complete re-build. Battery access is not too bad but I usually do that at home. Power switches are under the pilot house which has a snug (friction) fit.
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
3 of my boats rely on friction between the cabin and the hull. The fourth relies on magnets.
Another approach if there is some feature that rotates is to make it into a latch so that when it's rotated into the correct orientation, it locks the deck hatch down. I've seen this done with secondary turrets on warships.
I should add that a lot depends on where you run. If you run where careless folks might ram you, then something affirmative like a latch makes a lot more sense than friction. A good impact, knocking the cabin off, can ruin your week. Where I run, collisions are rare and mild, so I don't worry so much about it.
Another approach if there is some feature that rotates is to make it into a latch so that when it's rotated into the correct orientation, it locks the deck hatch down. I've seen this done with secondary turrets on warships.
I should add that a lot depends on where you run. If you run where careless folks might ram you, then something affirmative like a latch makes a lot more sense than friction. A good impact, knocking the cabin off, can ruin your week. Where I run, collisions are rare and mild, so I don't worry so much about it.
@merchant67 Second landplat’s suggestion of rare earth magnets. I use them all the time. I mount one under the removeable deck section & another magnet is attached to a deck framing member. Be sure to get the polarity of the second magnet correct. Two RE magnets create a strong clamping force.
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