This isn't a bash at Caldercraft or Dean's, but there are obviously bad boats from different manufacturers out there. has anyone ever read a bad review in the modelling press? I know that advertising is part of a magazines bread and butter and they must keep manufacturers sweet, but reviewers must have been sent "duff stuff" occasionally.
By the way RNinMunich, I am puzzled by what you have in your hand.🤔
Stay safe
Tim
This isn't a bash at Caldercraft or Dean's, but there are obviously bad boats from different manufacturers out there. has anyone ever read a bad review in the modelling press? I know that advertising is part of a magazines bread and butter and they must keep manufacturers sweet, but reviewers must have been sent "duff stuff" occasionally.
By the way RNinMunich, I am puzzled by what you have in your hand.🤔
Stay safe
Tim
Caldercraft are my favourite kit build but agree about the drawings and instructions. However, I always investigate my builds first on the web to see if there are any drawings or photos of the real ship and also look at other's builds to get an idea on what you are up against. A small amount of time spent at the beginning in planning saves time in the end. The metal fittings are generally good and now seem to be sending out kits with brass stanchions rather than soft metal which is much better although the piano wire they include can be a pig to work with but getting used to that now. I think all FG hulls have issues by their very nature but Caldercraft are generally robust but might need warming to shape the top edge better.
Caldercraft are my favourite kit build but agree about the drawings and instructions. However, I always investigate my builds first on the web to see if there are any drawings or photos of the real ship and also look at other's builds to get an idea on what you are up against. A small amount of time spent at the beginning in planning saves time in the end. The metal fittings are generally good and now seem to be sending out kits with brass stanchions rather than soft metal which is much better although the piano wire they include can be a pig to work with but getting used to that now. I think all FG hulls have issues by their very nature but Caldercraft are generally robust but might need warming to shape the top edge better.
I have built both makes. Deans Hms Solebay is a fine looking model but the fittings very poor. they agreed to replace them but new ones worse than originals.Hull flimsy & needed F/g to build up. Also had hard words from their staff. Caldercraft Resolve: Hull twisted but replaced although into the build found it also not correctly sized. Fittings generally good. Instructions and parts numbering a confusing but this seems to par for the course. Found John very helpful and quick in sending any parts. A very nice model. Result: will probably not use Deans but may try Caldercraft again
I have built both makes. Deans Hms Solebay is a fine looking model but the fittings very poor. they agreed to replace them but new ones worse than originals.Hull flimsy & needed F/g to build up. Also had hard words from their staff. Caldercraft Resolve: Hull twisted but replaced although into the build found it also not correctly sized. Fittings generally good. Instructions and parts numbering a confusing but this seems to par for the course. Found John very helpful and quick in sending any parts. A very nice model. Result: will probably not use Deans but may try Caldercraft again
I use sanding sealer, primer, and judicious amounts of paint. When I built my Mini Jupiter I used finishing epoxy inside to keep her from getting waterlogged.
I’m thinking about laying a store of old fashioned model airplane dope. It seals well, and is very sandable. There’s several references to making your own sanding sealer with a mixture of thinned dope and either balsa sawdust or talcum powder. Anyway, a place here in the US keeps dope in stock, as their primary customers are control line modelers. The company name is Brodak.
Cash
I use sanding sealer, primer, and judicious amounts of paint. When I built my Mini Jupiter I used finishing epoxy inside to keep her from getting waterlogged.
I’m thinking about laying a store of old fashioned model airplane dope. It seals well, and is very sandable. There’s several references to making your own sanding sealer with a mixture of thinned dope and either balsa sawdust or talcum powder. Anyway, a place here in the US keeps dope in stock, as their primary customers are control line modelers. The company name is Brodak.
Cash
I can't comment on Deans Models as I've never built one. But I dare say I will one day. I've always enjoyed Kit Bashing, as you can normally build your pride and joy quicker than by scratch building.
My only negative comment about any of the kit companys is I wish they wouldn't produce White Metal fittings as I prefer to limit the weight above the water line. I would prefere resin fittings. Another thing I'm not really kean on is using wood bits in a boat. I stopped using wood in my models some time ago, after a much loved model sank after wash from another boat drowned it. By the time I got it back, all the wood had swelled up, and caused the joints to fail. If I do end up using wood, I prime it well with sanding sealer these days.
I can't comment on Deans Models as I've never built one. But I dare say I will one day. I've always enjoyed Kit Bashing, as you can normally build your pride and joy quicker than by scratch building.
My only negative comment about any of the kit companys is I wish they wouldn't produce White Metal fittings as I prefer to limit the weight above the water line. I would prefere resin fittings. Another thing I'm not really kean on is using wood bits in a boat. I stopped using wood in my models some time ago, after a much loved model sank after wash from another boat drowned it. By the time I got it back, all the wood had swelled up, and caused the joints to fail. If I do end up using wood, I prime it well with sanding sealer these days.
Thank you for your apology regarding Sir Kay and as you hint, many of us competent modeller are pleased with the amount of detail in the Caldercraft kit. Of late they have replaced the stanchions with brass and they now include piano wire which is a bit of a pain to use but with care and making formers first works well and is not flimsy like brass wire. As for the Aberdeen drawings they have the labelled Sir Kay wrongly inasmuch as Sir Kay is shown with paravanes - it was an acoustic minesweeper. If you look at the correct drawing which is wrongly named even that has differences to the actual ship in the only photograph I have mamaged to secure so the ship developed between the original plan signed off by the MOD and the finished article, I.e. the drawing is not an as built so to speak.
Some of us seek perfection but others build a boat that is realistic and one that can be used regularly on the water so also needs to be robust. As for Caldercraft drawings and instructions they are certainly frustrating at times but you can scale them using a bit of experience and I would not say that they are really good for new modellers but you have to start somewhere.
Alan
Thank you for your apology regarding Sir Kay and as you hint, many of us competent modeller are pleased with the amount of detail in the Caldercraft kit. Of late they have replaced the stanchions with brass and they now include piano wire which is a bit of a pain to use but with care and making formers first works well and is not flimsy like brass wire. As for the Aberdeen drawings they have the labelled Sir Kay wrongly inasmuch as Sir Kay is shown with paravanes - it was an acoustic minesweeper. If you look at the correct drawing which is wrongly named even that has differences to the actual ship in the only photograph I have mamaged to secure so the ship developed between the original plan signed off by the MOD and the finished article, I.e. the drawing is not an as built so to speak.
Some of us seek perfection but others build a boat that is realistic and one that can be used regularly on the water so also needs to be robust. As for Caldercraft drawings and instructions they are certainly frustrating at times but you can scale them using a bit of experience and I would not say that they are really good for new modellers but you have to start somewhere.
Alan
Sorry I used the wrong word in my description of Sir Kay. I shouldn't have said generic. It is obviously a Round Table Class minesweeper. What I was trying to say was that it forms the basis of a good model that many people would be happy with, however the more critical of those amongst us would want to change a few things.
Once again sorry I didn't intend to mislead anyone and the opinions are mine and mine only.
Best wishes to all and stay safe Tim.
Sorry I used the wrong word in my description of Sir Kay. I shouldn't have said generic. It is obviously a Round Table Class minesweeper. What I was trying to say was that it forms the basis of a good model that many people would be happy with, however the more critical of those amongst us would want to change a few things.
Once again sorry I didn't intend to mislead anyone and the opinions are mine and mine only.
Best wishes to all and stay safe Tim.
Several years ago I bought some resin, white metal and vac formed fittings from Deans. When they arrived, the resin ones were soft, the texture was similar to that of a Haribo sweet. Not only that but many of the fittings were deformed, The cable reels were oval. The vac formed boats were ok but the vac formed superstructure parts were horrendous. As Brian King once said, "they looked like sucked boiled sweets", nothing was straight. I phoned up and asked for my money back. I was told that I couldn't have it as the fittings were a special order. When I insisted that the fittings were not fit for purpose and I wanted my money back the discussion quickly turned into a heated argument and eventually I was sworn at. I couldn't speak to Ron Dean as he was away at a toy exhibition, I think it was Nuremberg or somewhere else in Germany. When he returned I phoned him and told him what had happened. He said that his workers were professional and he couldn't believe they would do that. Basically calling me a liar. I have refused to buy anything from his company since then. I had spent about £150.00 on fittings and felt that I deserved more respect. Not all the fittings were bad. The white metal ones were ok. The rest I put in a box to remind me of the money that I had thrown away.
Several years ago I bought a Caldercraft "Sir Kay", whilst it makes into a nice model, I would say that it is a generic minesweeper rather than an accurate scale model. It would be accurate for most people. The plans that you get are not to the same scale as the model so it is not possible to accurately measure lengths or dimensions and a certain amount of guesswork is involved. The original plans for this boat are on the Aberdeen built ships website so it is possible to see where things are not the same. The wheel house on the model has a hexagonal front whereas on the real ship it had a flat front. Most of the fittings are white metal which is nice but make the boat rather top heavy. All the railings are rather fat white metal which I didn't like so have replaced with thinner brass ones. I appreciate that in order to make a working model corners have to be cut and adaptations have to be made.
Personally I wouldn't touch a Dean's but perhaps things have improved since I bought my stuff. I know it's difficult but if possible look what's in the box and inspect the quality of the stuff.
Several years ago I bought some resin, white metal and vac formed fittings from Deans. When they arrived, the resin ones were soft, the texture was similar to that of a Haribo sweet. Not only that but many of the fittings were deformed, The cable reels were oval. The vac formed boats were ok but the vac formed superstructure parts were horrendous. As Brian King once said, "they looked like sucked boiled sweets", nothing was straight. I phoned up and asked for my money back. I was told that I couldn't have it as the fittings were a special order. When I insisted that the fittings were not fit for purpose and I wanted my money back the discussion quickly turned into a heated argument and eventually I was sworn at. I couldn't speak to Ron Dean as he was away at a toy exhibition, I think it was Nuremberg or somewhere else in Germany. When he returned I phoned him and told him what had happened. He said that his workers were professional and he couldn't believe they would do that. Basically calling me a liar. I have refused to buy anything from his company since then. I had spent about £150.00 on fittings and felt that I deserved more respect. Not all the fittings were bad. The white metal ones were ok. The rest I put in a box to remind me of the money that I had thrown away.
Several years ago I bought a Caldercraft "Sir Kay", whilst it makes into a nice model, I would say that it is a generic minesweeper rather than an accurate scale model. It would be accurate for most people. The plans that you get are not to the same scale as the model so it is not possible to accurately measure lengths or dimensions and a certain amount of guesswork is involved. The original plans for this boat are on the Aberdeen built ships website so it is possible to see where things are not the same. The wheel house on the model has a hexagonal front whereas on the real ship it had a flat front. Most of the fittings are white metal which is nice but make the boat rather top heavy. All the railings are rather fat white metal which I didn't like so have replaced with thinner brass ones. I appreciate that in order to make a working model corners have to be cut and adaptations have to be made.
Personally I wouldn't touch a Dean's but perhaps things have improved since I bought my stuff. I know it's difficult but if possible look what's in the box and inspect the quality of the stuff.
I’m still torn. I like what I’ve heard about Caldercraft kits, but man, Deans has such a large range of boats. I understand the criticisms of the Deans kits, having waded thru the PBR, and given the partially built Wacht Am Rhein a good look over. However, I’ve learned from the Graupner Taucher Wulf and the Deans Pibber that the instructions are simply guidelines, and as long as I have pics and a 3 view I can figure it out. I looked at Mount Fleet models too. At first I thought they were a little pricey, but they seem roughly in line with Caldercraft, as far as prices go.
Cash
I’m still torn. I like what I’ve heard about Caldercraft kits, but man, Deans has such a large range of boats. I understand the criticisms of the Deans kits, having waded thru the PBR, and given the partially built Wacht Am Rhein a good look over. However, I’ve learned from the Graupner Taucher Wulf and the Deans Pibber that the instructions are simply guidelines, and as long as I have pics and a 3 view I can figure it out. I looked at Mount Fleet models too. At first I thought they were a little pricey, but they seem roughly in line with Caldercraft, as far as prices go.
Cash
I did ask what the service/admin charge was for. I was told that, as every kit was made to order, it paid for the careful picking and packing. It didn't help them spot my defective hull.......
I did ask what the service/admin charge was for. I was told that, as every kit was made to order, it paid for the careful picking and packing. It didn't help them spot my defective hull.......
The only reason I purchased a Deans Kit was because I wanted to build the LST, purely for the sentimental reason that my father commanded 368 during the war. I think that making a service charge as well as postage is disgusting especially with the kit being quite expensive to start off with. I did consider scratch building but with my health being what it is, I opted for what I am hoping will be the ease of building from a kit. Just about to start installing the motors and running gear.
Cheers, Nerys
The only reason I purchased a Deans Kit was because I wanted to build the LST, purely for the sentimental reason that my father commanded 368 during the war. I think that making a service charge as well as postage is disgusting especially with the kit being quite expensive to start off with. I did consider scratch building but with my health being what it is, I opted for what I am hoping will be the ease of building from a kit. Just about to start installing the motors and running gear.
Cheers, Nerys
When the winds before the rain, soon you may make sail again, but when the rain's before the wind, tops'l sheets and halyards mind
Hi Nerys.
You are quite correct.
Deans is poor.
As I have posted in the past I will never buy from them again.
Poor products and even worse service.
Regards Bill
Hi Nerys.
You are quite correct.
Deans is poor.
As I have posted in the past I will never buy from them again.
Poor products and even worse service.
Regards Bill
You cannot say that the Caldercraft GF hulls are flimsy in any way. But the Deans kits to me have always been lightweight in their nature but are very detailed and look good when built and finished correctly.
You cannot say that the Caldercraft GF hulls are flimsy in any way. But the Deans kits to me have always been lightweight in their nature but are very detailed and look good when built and finished correctly.
I would go for Caldercraft every time.
I have just bought a Deans Thorneycroft HSL 2661 (much against my better judgement) and had to have the hull replaced as the gel coat on the transom was crazed.
In the first instance Deans replied -
" not a problem at all, possibly it has been dropped hard in transit,
sand over the hull with fine wet and dry as in the normal cleaning off the wax on the hull a wipe with body filler when touching up the hull join.
The coat of primer with fill over the marks."
When I pointed out that the fibre glass was only 0.9mm in places they replied
" fairly standard thickness of a g/f hull, they have to be made light for fast launches it is not a problem at all, but if you wish we will change it for anther one ?
send it back to us in the box".
They did not offer to refund my postage.
On the other hand, I made the tug Resolve by Caldercraft. As has been pointed out, the main materials are fibreglass and wood. Attention to detail is superb, the fittings are all of very good quality and the finished model is excellent!
I would go for Caldercraft every time.
I have just bought a Deans Thorneycroft HSL 2661 (much against my better judgement) and had to have the hull replaced as the gel coat on the transom was crazed.
In the first instance Deans replied -
" not a problem at all, possibly it has been dropped hard in transit,
sand over the hull with fine wet and dry as in the normal cleaning off the wax on the hull a wipe with body filler when touching up the hull join.
The coat of primer with fill over the marks."
When I pointed out that the fibre glass was only 0.9mm in places they replied
" fairly standard thickness of a g/f hull, they have to be made light for fast launches it is not a problem at all, but if you wish we will change it for anther one ?
send it back to us in the box".
They did not offer to refund my postage.
On the other hand, I made the tug Resolve by Caldercraft. As has been pointed out, the main materials are fibreglass and wood. Attention to detail is superb, the fittings are all of very good quality and the finished model is excellent!
I would go for the The vintage Model works 46" crash tender, I completed one a few months ago and it was a real pleasure to build, the company could not be more helpful during my build have a look at my blog and their web site
https://model-boats.com/blogs/37275
I would go for the The vintage Model works 46" crash tender, I completed one a few months ago and it was a real pleasure to build, the company could not be more helpful during my build have a look at my blog and their web site https://model-boats.com/blogs/37275
It depends on what materials you prefer to work with. My favourite is Caldercraft and their kits mainly consist of fibre glass hulls, timber decking and superstructure and white metal fittings. Whereas Deans are often fibreglass hulls and plasticard type sheet for everything else plus fittings etc.
Alan
It depends on what materials you prefer to work with. My favourite is Caldercraft and their kits mainly consist of fibre glass hulls, timber decking and superstructure and white metal fittings. Whereas Deans are often fibreglass hulls and plasticard type sheet for everything else plus fittings etc.
Alan
Hi y’all. I turn 60 a month after Christmas, and it looks as if I’ll be able to spend a bit for a new kit for my birthday. I have in mind a couple of the RAF rescue launches from Deans, or a Cumbrea pilot boat from Caldercraft. I’ve built a Deans kit before, so I know what I’m getting into with that range of kits, but I’ve never built or even seen a Caldercraft kit. I’m not trying to stir the pot, if the Caldercraft kits are at least in the same league as the Deans I’m okay with that.
Thanks y’all
Cash
Hi y’all. I turn 60 a month after Christmas, and it looks as if I’ll be able to spend a bit for a new kit for my birthday. I have in mind a couple of the RAF rescue launches from Deans, or a Cumbrea pilot boat from Caldercraft. I’ve built a Deans kit before, so I know what I’m getting into with that range of kits, but I’ve never built or even seen a Caldercraft kit. I’m not trying to stir the pot, if the Caldercraft kits are at least in the same league as the Deans I’m okay with that.
Thanks y’all
Cash
