I built this model during four long years. my Lulonga is nearly whole scratchbuilt model (about 75 cm long) except the steering wheel and position lamps.
The model has a plywood and balsa hull construction ,plywood decks,from hard polystyrene sheets made superstructure,laminated with veneer. Sidewheels with skew paddles, two DC 12V independent electric motors with gearboxes controlled by ESC. Electric LED lights, steam sound module, sirene and horn.Tx/Rx 6 channel HK 2,4GHz.
completion expected in spring 2014
More infos about building you find at > www.paddleducks.co.uk <
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr59Ipalx9g
some videos are here at Model Boats too >
http://mdlbt.com/19852
wiring diagram you can see here in my albums
http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga#lulongaelschema1.jpg
{"text":"I built this model during four long years. my Lulonga is nearly whole scratchbuilt model (about 75 cm long) except the steering wheel and position lamps.\nThe model has a plywood and balsa hull construction ,plywood decks,from hard polystyrene sheets made superstructure,laminated with veneer. Sidewheels with skew paddles, two DC 12V independent electric motors with gearboxes controlled by ESC. Electric LED lights, steam sound module, sirene and horn.Tx/Rx 6 channel HK 2,4GHz.\ncompletion expected in spring 2014\nMore infos about building you find at > www.paddleducks.co.uk <\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr59Ipalx9g\n\n some videos are here at Model Boats too > \nhttp://mdlbt.com/19852\n\nwiring diagram you can see here in my albums \nhttp://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga#lulongaelschema1.jpg","subject":"RC model Lulonga river tug","media":[{"id":"1388941020","name":"1388941020.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388941020/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388941020/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1388940921","name":"1388940921.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388940921/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388940921/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1388940897","name":"1388940897.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388940897/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388940897/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1388940869","name":"1388940869.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388940869/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1388940869/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU"}
I built this model during four long years. my Lulonga is nearly whole scratchbuilt model (about 75 cm long) except the steering wheel and position lamps.
The model has a plywood and balsa hull construction ,plywood decks,from hard polystyrene sheets made superstructure,laminated with veneer. Sidewheels with skew paddles, two DC 12V independent electric motors with gearboxes controlled by ESC. Electric LED lights, steam sound module, sirene and horn.Tx/Rx 6 channel HK 2,4GHz.
completion expected in spring 2014
More infos about building you find at > www.paddleducks.co.uk <
Finally got a good day to try the new brushless motor. Boat goes 100% better now (if a bit noisier) 3s 25c 2200mAh liPo got a bit too hot, so probably need to up the C rate to 40 to keep it cooler (maybe install a fan as it's closed under the seat) It's pushing a 6lb boat with a 26mm jet with a 3000kV brushless so it has an excuse to get hot, (only got down to 3.7V/cell after that run, so not too bad). Runs with a more scale look now which is what I wanted. Took a bit of experimenting, but got there in the end. Thermostatic cooling fans for the motor worked well, and within 10 mins the motor was cool. Only used around 2/3 throttle so as not to stress the coupling too much (you can hear it protest a few times, - silicone tube slips slightly making it squeal)- automatic rev limiter😁
Sorry, vid is blurry again ☹️ (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious😐
{"text":"Finally got a good day to try the new brushless motor. Boat goes 100% better now (if a bit noisier) 3s 25c 2200mAh liPo got a bit too hot, so probably need to up the C rate to 40 to keep it cooler (maybe install a fan as it's closed under the seat) It's pushing a 6lb boat with a 26mm jet with a 3000kV brushless so it has an excuse to get hot, (only got down to 3.7V/cell after that run, so not too bad). Runs with a more scale look now which is what I wanted. Took a bit of experimenting, but got there in the end. Thermostatic cooling fans for the motor worked well, and within 10 mins the motor was cool. Only used around 2/3 throttle so as not to stress the coupling too much (you can hear it protest a few times, - silicone tube slips slightly making it squeal)- automatic rev limiter\ud83d\ude01\n\nSorry, vid is blurry again \u2639\ufe0f (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious\ud83d\ude10","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, MOTOR MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwOX3-3YM7Q"}
Finally got a good day to try the new brushless motor. Boat goes 100% better now (if a bit noisier) 3s 25c 2200mAh liPo got a bit too hot, so probably need to up the C rate to 40 to keep it cooler (maybe install a fan as it's closed under the seat) It's pushing a 6lb boat with a 26mm jet with a 3000kV brushless so it has an excuse to get hot, (only got down to 3.7V/cell after that run, so not too bad). Runs with a more scale look now which is what I wanted. Took a bit of experimenting, but got there in the end. Thermostatic cooling fans for the motor worked well, and within 10 mins the motor was cool. Only used around 2/3 throttle so as not to stress the coupling too much (you can hear it protest a few times, - silicone tube slips slightly making it squeal)- automatic rev limiter😁
Sorry, vid is blurry again ☹️ (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious😐
Hi Ron, haven't spent a huge amount due to the fact that all the electrical bits are very cheap ($1 ea for a voltage reg, $8-12 for a pump, $30 ea for a motor (bought 2 as the first was not fast enough) and jet unit, $15 for the ESC, a few JST plugs and wire, $3 smoke pen, few lengths of silicone tube etc, plus balsa and f/glass, -probably not a lot more than NZ $200. A lot of things you buy of course like resin and paint, usually have to be bought in bigger quantities than you would use on one model, and may be used on other projects, so it's hard to work out an exact cost. I think the hull was the most expensive part, due to the cost of balsa and resin.
Mostly a lot of time, (hate to work out the labour cost on any model at going rates,- probably in the thousands)!
JB
Hi Ron, haven't spent a huge amount due to the fact that all the electrical bits are very cheap ($1 ea for a voltage reg, $8-12 for a pump, $30 ea for a motor (bought 2 as the first was not fast enough) and jet unit, $15 for the ESC, a few JST plugs and wire, $3 smoke pen, few lengths of silicone tube etc, plus balsa and f/glass, -probably not a lot more than NZ $200. A lot of things you buy of course like resin and paint, usually have to be bought in bigger quantities than you would use on one model, and may be used on other projects, so it's hard to work out an exact cost. I think the hull was the most expensive part, due to the cost of balsa and resin.
Mostly a lot of time, (hate to work out the labour cost on any model at going rates,- probably in the thousands)!
JB
Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?☹️)
Set-up pics in blog,
{"text":"Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?\u2639\ufe0f)\n\nSet-up pics in blog,","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, JET. MOTOR COOLING MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpXR0zvId7w"}
Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?☹️)
Set the new Surpass 3000KV 36 diam finned in-runner up in the boat, and did a tank test. Lots more power than the HV brushed 1200kv 550, but with higher idle. Re-did the reinforced silicone coupling and fitted a small collar to the inner end of the motor shaft to hold the tube from moving forward against the motor, as with the extra torque of the in-runner, it was trying to twist the tube off the shafts. Seems to be hanging in there static which is a promising sign. Once running, the load will come off which should help.
Runs full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding😁, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge😀
Note the police chase outside in the background😁- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars😁
{"text":"Set the new Surpass 3000KV 36 diam finned in-runner up in the boat, and did a tank test. Lots more power than the HV brushed 1200kv 550, but with higher idle. Re-did the reinforced silicone coupling and fitted a small collar to the inner end of the motor shaft to hold the tube from moving forward against the motor, as with the extra torque of the in-runner, it was trying to twist the tube off the shafts. Seems to be hanging in there static which is a promising sign. Once running, the load will come off which should help. \n\nRuns full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding\ud83d\ude01, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24\" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge\ud83d\ude00\n\nNote the police chase outside in the background\ud83d\ude01- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars\ud83d\ude01","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE JET, MOTOR MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl8aFc5vTzs"}
Set the new Surpass 3000KV 36 diam finned in-runner up in the boat, and did a tank test. Lots more power than the HV brushed 1200kv 550, but with higher idle. Re-did the reinforced silicone coupling and fitted a small collar to the inner end of the motor shaft to hold the tube from moving forward against the motor, as with the extra torque of the in-runner, it was trying to twist the tube off the shafts. Seems to be hanging in there static which is a promising sign. Once running, the load will come off which should help.
Runs full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding😁, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge😀
Note the police chase outside in the background😁- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars😁
I trial fitted a thermal switch to the fans in the dummy motor, which is mounted on the 540 motor. It starts the dual fans at 30deg C and switches off at around 20deg C. Bit hard to hear in the vid (plus the YT transfer removed the middle of the vid, -there was a gap before I put the soldering iron on again,- and at the end don't know why it does this, - doesn't like the format I think😠) Anyhoo, not doing it 3 times! (clipped the end 10 secs off the previous try as well😠)
Fan switch is powered at 8v via a small voltage reg from the main battery (3s 2200 20c) and works pretty well. All fully hortomatic like😊
{"text":"I trial fitted a thermal switch to the fans in the dummy motor, which is mounted on the 540 motor. It starts the dual fans at 30deg C and switches off at around 20deg C. Bit hard to hear in the vid (plus the YT transfer removed the middle of the vid, -there was a gap before I put the soldering iron on again,- and at the end don't know why it does this, - doesn't like the format I think\ud83d\ude20) Anyhoo, not doing it 3 times! (clipped the end 10 secs off the previous try as well\ud83d\ude20)\n\nFan switch is powered at 8v via a small voltage reg from the main battery (3s 2200 20c) and works pretty well. All fully hortomatic like\ud83d\ude0a","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, THERMAL FAN SWITCH","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HarIhE3apA"}
I trial fitted a thermal switch to the fans in the dummy motor, which is mounted on the 540 motor. It starts the dual fans at 30deg C and switches off at around 20deg C. Bit hard to hear in the vid (plus the YT transfer removed the middle of the vid, -there was a gap before I put the soldering iron on again,- and at the end don't know why it does this, - doesn't like the format I think😠) Anyhoo, not doing it 3 times! (clipped the end 10 secs off the previous try as well😠)
Fan switch is powered at 8v via a small voltage reg from the main battery (3s 2200 20c) and works pretty well. All fully hortomatic like😊
I decided to risk a salt water trial, as there is no place I can think of with fresh water and a smooth beach or ramp which doesn't involve a 100 mile round trip (most beaches where I am are ocean beaches and others are soft sand/shell. The only lake I can think of is 112km away and I'm not THAT keen. Launching went ok but retrieval was another matter, not helped by an 8mph side wind (looks calm but is windy) Had a number of goes and discovered a few things which need changing, (extra front guide posts and rollers either end of the pads) The rubber resting pads stick like glue so I'll have to make some pop up rollers at the ends.
The pads hold the boat slightly above the centre rollers to avoid damage and stop it sliding off while shifting it. New front guide posts are needed as the boat only draws about 30mm and goes right over the trailer with it underwater 😮(no prop or rudder sticking out,) so it might help locate it when coming in. Jeep had truckloads of power (just fitted a new even lower geared -geared motor -1000rpm/min @ 12v), but unfortunately being only 2x2 (not 4x4) and being half the weight of the boat/trailer combo it couldn't get a grip in the mud, so needed a bit of assistance, (as did the boat getting onto the trailer). Cut out most of the vid with the boat missing the trailer about 10 times, but scored a direct hit once😊. Heaps of fun trying and heaps of washing and CRC when I got home! Going to need some new bearings at some stage, - the ones in it are rubbish and have only lasted for about a few hours running, noisy as anything now, even with gallons of oil. Stainless NMB ones next if I don't change the jet to something else, (another thought on propulsion happening)💡
{"text":"I decided to risk a salt water trial, as there is no place I can think of with fresh water and a smooth beach or ramp which doesn't involve a 100 mile round trip (most beaches where I am are ocean beaches and others are soft sand/shell. The only lake I can think of is 112km away and I'm not THAT keen. Launching went ok but retrieval was another matter, not helped by an 8mph side wind (looks calm but is windy) Had a number of goes and discovered a few things which need changing, (extra front guide posts and rollers either end of the pads) The rubber resting pads stick like glue so I'll have to make some pop up rollers at the ends.\n\n The pads hold the boat slightly above the centre rollers to avoid damage and stop it sliding off while shifting it. New front guide posts are needed as the boat only draws about 30mm and goes right over the trailer with it underwater \ud83d\ude2e(no prop or rudder sticking out,) so it might help locate it when coming in. Jeep had truckloads of power (just fitted a new even lower geared -geared motor -1000rpm/min @ 12v), but unfortunately being only 2x2 (not 4x4) and being half the weight of the boat/trailer combo it couldn't get a grip in the mud, so needed a bit of assistance, (as did the boat getting onto the trailer). Cut out most of the vid with the boat missing the trailer about 10 times, but scored a direct hit once\ud83d\ude0a. Heaps of fun trying and heaps of washing and CRC when I got home! Going to need some new bearings at some stage, - the ones in it are rubbish and have only lasted for about a few hours running, noisy as anything now, even with gallons of oil. Stainless NMB ones next if I don't change the jet to something else, (another thought on propulsion happening)\ud83d\udca1","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, FIRST CRACK AT TRAILER LAUNCHING.","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9O-XUETb1c"}
HARTLEY FLARELINE, FIRST CRACK AT TRAILER LAUNCHING.
I decided to risk a salt water trial, as there is no place I can think of with fresh water and a smooth beach or ramp which doesn't involve a 100 mile round trip (most beaches where I am are ocean beaches and others are soft sand/shell. The only lake I can think of is 112km away and I'm not THAT keen. Launching went ok but retrieval was another matter, not helped by an 8mph side wind (looks calm but is windy) Had a number of goes and discovered a few things which need changing, (extra front guide posts and rollers either end of the pads) The rubber resting pads stick like glue so I'll have to make some pop up rollers at the ends.
The pads hold the boat slightly above the centre rollers to avoid damage and stop it sliding off while shifting it. New front guide posts are needed as the boat only draws about 30mm and goes right over the trailer with it underwater 😮(no prop or rudder sticking out,) so it might help locate it when coming in. Jeep had truckloads of power (just fitted a new even lower geared -geared motor -1000rpm/min @ 12v), but unfortunately being only 2x2 (not 4x4) and being half the weight of the boat/trailer combo it couldn't get a grip in the mud, so needed a bit of assistance, (as did the boat getting onto the trailer). Cut out most of the vid with the boat missing the trailer about 10 times, but scored a direct hit once😊. Heaps of fun trying and heaps of washing and CRC when I got home! Going to need some new bearings at some stage, - the ones in it are rubbish and have only lasted for about a few hours running, noisy as anything now, even with gallons of oil. Stainless NMB ones next if I don't change the jet to something else, (another thought on propulsion happening)💡
Hi JB - Martins eBay one looks like the place to start - add metal diffs and a good body - away you go .
Was thinking its a pity you are stuck with two transmitters - be nice to only use one like the old Futaba/Graupner F14 set they used for the German Rescue & Daughter boats..........
Hi JB - Martins eBay one looks like the place to start - add metal diffs and a good body - away you go .
Was thinking its a pity you are stuck with two transmitters - be nice to only use one like the old Futaba/Graupner F14 set they used for the German Rescue & Daughter boats..........
Hi Peter, I could probably drive the boat on the right stick, and the truck on the left stick of the 9x TX,- I'd just have to sort out the smoke/air/water pump starting, which at present uses the left stick moved right and left to start/stop. The smoke etc doesn't run all the time, (just for starting as a display thing) and can be turned off at any time with Grahams clever little control board. It's not too much of a problem really though,- if I was better organised, I could probably hang one over each shoulder (or clamp them back to back)😁
JB
Hi Peter, I could probably drive the boat on the right stick, and the truck on the left stick of the 9x TX,- I'd just have to sort out the smoke/air/water pump starting, which at present uses the left stick moved right and left to start/stop. The smoke etc doesn't run all the time, (just for starting as a display thing) and can be turned off at any time with Grahams clever little control board. It's not too much of a problem really though,- if I was better organised, I could probably hang one over each shoulder (or clamp them back to back)😁
JB
Second test was slightly better, using the aluminium spiral cut universal which came with the jet unit. As you can probably hear, it was horribly out of balance (even with cable ties to reduce it). It was not even drilled centrally and the spiral is right hand when it should be left hand, (like a spring twisted against the wind, it wants to deform). Slight improvement in speed on the first test (no slip this time) but the noise was horrendous.
Have pulled the jet apart and found that the 3 blade prop is around 1 mm too small for the hole, causing cavitation (see loads of bubbles in the jet stream) which is causing loss of thrust. The prop is the wrong type as well, with rounded blades, so I have modified a larger prop with more pitch to fit snugly in the unit to hopefully increase thrust. The shaft is also wrong, with a flat cut almost half the diam and carrying on through the bearing, allowing the grease to fly out.
I actually saw a Chinese site on Al Expr stating that "some dimensions on the product may be different due to the number of machines and operators involved in its' manufacture," SERIOUSLY!!??? their quality control must be utter crap and the operators not skilled enough to eat their lunch😐 Why bother having a dimension at all?? Little wonder nothing fits properly.
Unfortunately, most model shops sell the very same stuff, unless you want to shell out muchos dolleros for European stuff. I have just ordered some 4mm silver steel to make a new shaft, so a coupling or silicone tube will fit better. Also ordered some solid connectors to try. Vibration is wasted energy so it needs to be eliminated. Hopefully the mods will improve things and allow the motor to run on 4s rater than 3s. Worked out that the motor is only 1200KV, so it's only doing around 13,000 rpm under load. Probably will need around
18,000 rpm for proper performance. Onwards and upwards (or forwards as the case may be.😁)
Sorry about the blurry vid again, but my camera lens is knackered.
{"text":"Second test was slightly better, using the aluminium spiral cut universal which came with the jet unit. As you can probably hear, it was horribly out of balance (even with cable ties to reduce it). It was not even drilled centrally and the spiral is right hand when it should be left hand, (like a spring twisted against the wind, it wants to deform). Slight improvement in speed on the first test (no slip this time) but the noise was horrendous.\n\nHave pulled the jet apart and found that the 3 blade prop is around 1 mm too small for the hole, causing cavitation (see loads of bubbles in the jet stream) which is causing loss of thrust. The prop is the wrong type as well, with rounded blades, so I have modified a larger prop with more pitch to fit snugly in the unit to hopefully increase thrust. The shaft is also wrong, with a flat cut almost half the diam and carrying on through the bearing, allowing the grease to fly out. \n\nI actually saw a Chinese site on Al Expr stating that \"some dimensions on the product may be different due to the number of machines and operators involved in its' manufacture,\" SERIOUSLY!!??? their quality control must be utter crap and the operators not skilled enough to eat their lunch\ud83d\ude10 Why bother having a dimension at all?? Little wonder nothing fits properly.\n\nUnfortunately, most model shops sell the very same stuff, unless you want to shell out muchos dolleros for European stuff. I have just ordered some 4mm silver steel to make a new shaft, so a coupling or silicone tube will fit better. Also ordered some solid connectors to try. Vibration is wasted energy so it needs to be eliminated. Hopefully the mods will improve things and allow the motor to run on 4s rater than 3s. Worked out that the motor is only 1200KV, so it's only doing around 13,000 rpm under load. Probably will need around \n18,000 rpm for proper performance. Onwards and upwards (or forwards as the case may be.\ud83d\ude01)\n\nSorry about the blurry vid again, but my camera lens is knackered.","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT, TEST 2","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNEN5dkr8CY"}
Second test was slightly better, using the aluminium spiral cut universal which came with the jet unit. As you can probably hear, it was horribly out of balance (even with cable ties to reduce it). It was not even drilled centrally and the spiral is right hand when it should be left hand, (like a spring twisted against the wind, it wants to deform). Slight improvement in speed on the first test (no slip this time) but the noise was horrendous.
Have pulled the jet apart and found that the 3 blade prop is around 1 mm too small for the hole, causing cavitation (see loads of bubbles in the jet stream) which is causing loss of thrust. The prop is the wrong type as well, with rounded blades, so I have modified a larger prop with more pitch to fit snugly in the unit to hopefully increase thrust. The shaft is also wrong, with a flat cut almost half the diam and carrying on through the bearing, allowing the grease to fly out.
I actually saw a Chinese site on Al Expr stating that "some dimensions on the product may be different due to the number of machines and operators involved in its' manufacture," SERIOUSLY!!??? their quality control must be utter crap and the operators not skilled enough to eat their lunch😐 Why bother having a dimension at all?? Little wonder nothing fits properly.
Unfortunately, most model shops sell the very same stuff, unless you want to shell out muchos dolleros for European stuff. I have just ordered some 4mm silver steel to make a new shaft, so a coupling or silicone tube will fit better. Also ordered some solid connectors to try. Vibration is wasted energy so it needs to be eliminated. Hopefully the mods will improve things and allow the motor to run on 4s rater than 3s. Worked out that the motor is only 1200KV, so it's only doing around 13,000 rpm under load. Probably will need around
18,000 rpm for proper performance. Onwards and upwards (or forwards as the case may be.😁)
Sorry about the blurry vid again, but my camera lens is knackered.
Weather was perfect tonight for a test, so I did the 15km trip out to the Gulf harbour pond (most weed free pond) to throw the boat in. After a thorough under water hull inspection from the marine department, she was off. Everything worked ok except the silicone drive tube which had become enlarged due to soaking in the grease coming out the front of the jet shaft. It was slipping badly and probably losing about 60% of its' thrust. Manoeuvrability is excellent but reverse leaves a bit to be be desired. Steering in reverse is perfect but the thrust is not going forwards enough from the bucket. Might have to build in some nozzles to direct it better.
Smoke air and water are working as well as can be expected, (smoke is a bit wafty, but with too much air introduced it will disappear as it gets thinned out too much to see) I was not expecting miracles as this was a bit of an experiment (modified cheap jet unit with unknown abilities) but at least it shows promise😁. If I can find a coupling which is concentric it will solve the drive problem.
Trouble is, the Chinese insist on making a 4mm shaft, 4.95 (or whatever) which is useless for balance in a 4mm ID bearing for example. Fine for cars, but no good for boats or planes due to balance requirements (it's a mission trying to balance plane props due to this thinking,- they do it with everything) shafts for electric motors are a nightmare at times as the play they build in, can ruin an otherwise good motor. I might have to buy a flexible rubber/nylon universal or a collet style( preferable as these take up any undersize on shafts) to fix it. They included a spiral alloy one with the jet unit which is as loose as a rooster in a sock, and only good for slower things like 3D printers etc. One of these days they will learn how to machine things to fit.😐
{"text":"Weather was perfect tonight for a test, so I did the 15km trip out to the Gulf harbour pond (most weed free pond) to throw the boat in. After a thorough under water hull inspection from the marine department, she was off. Everything worked ok except the silicone drive tube which had become enlarged due to soaking in the grease coming out the front of the jet shaft. It was slipping badly and probably losing about 60% of its' thrust. Manoeuvrability is excellent but reverse leaves a bit to be be desired. Steering in reverse is perfect but the thrust is not going forwards enough from the bucket. Might have to build in some nozzles to direct it better.\n\nSmoke air and water are working as well as can be expected, (smoke is a bit wafty, but with too much air introduced it will disappear as it gets thinned out too much to see) I was not expecting miracles as this was a bit of an experiment (modified cheap jet unit with unknown abilities) but at least it shows promise\ud83d\ude01. If I can find a coupling which is concentric it will solve the drive problem. \n\nTrouble is, the Chinese insist on making a 4mm shaft, 4.95 (or whatever) which is useless for balance in a 4mm ID bearing for example. Fine for cars, but no good for boats or planes due to balance requirements (it's a mission trying to balance plane props due to this thinking,- they do it with everything) shafts for electric motors are a nightmare at times as the play they build in, can ruin an otherwise good motor. I might have to buy a flexible rubber/nylon universal or a collet style( preferable as these take up any undersize on shafts) to fix it. They included a spiral alloy one with the jet unit which is as loose as a rooster in a sock, and only good for slower things like 3D printers etc. One of these days they will learn how to machine things to fit.\ud83d\ude10","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT FIRST TEST","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsCC52Sr-Nk"}
Weather was perfect tonight for a test, so I did the 15km trip out to the Gulf harbour pond (most weed free pond) to throw the boat in. After a thorough under water hull inspection from the marine department, she was off. Everything worked ok except the silicone drive tube which had become enlarged due to soaking in the grease coming out the front of the jet shaft. It was slipping badly and probably losing about 60% of its' thrust. Manoeuvrability is excellent but reverse leaves a bit to be be desired. Steering in reverse is perfect but the thrust is not going forwards enough from the bucket. Might have to build in some nozzles to direct it better.
Smoke air and water are working as well as can be expected, (smoke is a bit wafty, but with too much air introduced it will disappear as it gets thinned out too much to see) I was not expecting miracles as this was a bit of an experiment (modified cheap jet unit with unknown abilities) but at least it shows promise😁. If I can find a coupling which is concentric it will solve the drive problem.
Trouble is, the Chinese insist on making a 4mm shaft, 4.95 (or whatever) which is useless for balance in a 4mm ID bearing for example. Fine for cars, but no good for boats or planes due to balance requirements (it's a mission trying to balance plane props due to this thinking,- they do it with everything) shafts for electric motors are a nightmare at times as the play they build in, can ruin an otherwise good motor. I might have to buy a flexible rubber/nylon universal or a collet style( preferable as these take up any undersize on shafts) to fix it. They included a spiral alloy one with the jet unit which is as loose as a rooster in a sock, and only good for slower things like 3D printers etc. One of these days they will learn how to machine things to fit.😐
Seemed to work a whole lot better in the tank for some reason Martin. Possibly due to the coupling slipping, (the squealing is it slipping) Just a bit of silicone fuel tube. I use it on all the boats as it's quiet, self aligning, and lets go if your prop gets jammed by weed. Problem is with the jet, it has a flat on the shaft for some reason which doesn't help the tube grip, and lets grease in causing slippage. I'll sort it eventually,- didn't expect miracles first time out (same with planes) - Almost always some small initial problems.
Motor should be spinning at 15,000 rpm with a 3 cell, but performance is not matching that, obviously,- just piddling along😁 Mind you, I used to cruise like that in the full sized boat, as the Zodiac motor used to suck gas like nothing at 20 knots plus, (gallons per mile, not miles per gallon!)
JB
Seemed to work a whole lot better in the tank for some reason Martin. Possibly due to the coupling slipping, (the squealing is it slipping) Just a bit of silicone fuel tube. I use it on all the boats as it's quiet, self aligning, and lets go if your prop gets jammed by weed. Problem is with the jet, it has a flat on the shaft for some reason which doesn't help the tube grip, and lets grease in causing slippage. I'll sort it eventually,- didn't expect miracles first time out (same with planes) - Almost always some small initial problems.
Motor should be spinning at 15,000 rpm with a 3 cell, but performance is not matching that, obviously,- just piddling along😁 Mind you, I used to cruise like that in the full sized boat, as the Zodiac motor used to suck gas like nothing at 20 knots plus, (gallons per mile, not miles per gallon!)
JB
Added some strakes to the bottom, and added some down thrust to the motor (to push the stern down) which has made it run a lot straighter and with more control on full power. Also added a camera mount as well.
{"text":"Added some strakes to the bottom, and added some down thrust to the motor (to push the stern down) which has made it run a lot straighter and with more control on full power. Also added a camera mount as well.","subject":"AIRBOAT, GETTING BACK TO IT (SOME IMPROVEMENTS)","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj3emPZjOqc"}
Added some strakes to the bottom, and added some down thrust to the motor (to push the stern down) which has made it run a lot straighter and with more control on full power. Also added a camera mount as well.
Jb,
Definitely looks more controllable, you may have tamed the beast at last or she is saving up a little surprise that she will give to you latter.LOL!!
Martin555.
Jb,
Definitely looks more controllable, you may have tamed the beast at last or she is saving up a little surprise that she will give to you latter.LOL!!
Martin555.
Trying the jet reverse bucket mods, engine sounds and radio, (wanted to see if you could still hear the radio over the motor.) Still needs a deflector fitted above the jet.
{"text":"Trying the jet reverse bucket mods, engine sounds and radio, (wanted to see if you could still hear the radio over the motor.) Still needs a deflector fitted above the jet.","subject":"HARTLEY SOUNDS AND JET MODS TESTING","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xy5dSPjyGQ"}
Trying the jet reverse bucket mods, engine sounds and radio, (wanted to see if you could still hear the radio over the motor.) Still needs a deflector fitted above the jet.
Hi Jb,
It look like the bucket will have to be a very close fit to the top of the thruster when using in reverse
And as you say a small deflector so that it clears the bucket in the forward mode.
Shame about the misty video.
Martin555.
Hi Jb,
It look like the bucket will have to be a very close fit to the top of the thruster when using in reverse
And as you say a small deflector so that it clears the bucket in the forward mode.
Shame about the misty video.
Martin555.
Hi Martin, I've made a small plate to go above the jet which should divert the water away from the bucket pushrod, just have to glue it on and test it (possibly tomorrow). Most jet boats tend to have the same problem with back feed out the top as it's pretty much impossible to seal, because the nozzle has to move from side to side. Most of the Hamilton production jet boats had a large platform over the jet unit which stopped water splashing up the transom (see pics of some early Hamilton jet boats).
The lens on my small vid cam is stuffed and I really need to invest in a GO Pro or similar (when I win Lotto)😁 I Have a few other cheapies, but this was the best, until I somehow scratched the lens, and then tried to polish it☹️. Works a bit better at longer range on sunny days. May be able to get it repaired as it is just the domed protective lens over the main tiny lens.
Couldn't do much more on the boat, (waiting for stuff from China) so took my latest plane (finished early this year and never tested) down to the big playing fields for some high speed taxi runs. on the last run, it actually took off accidentally, (but very smoothly) before I was ready and ended up putting it back down quickly but bending a landing gear strut. I consider it very successful as I now know it will fly, and my wing construction around the electric retract was strong enough to bend the 4mm landing gear wire. Same thing happened with another own design, plane but I was in a position to keep going after it leapt off the ground unexpectedly, and I found it flew perfectly! At least today provided something positive which is always good. This is one I made from some photographs of a one off prototype. Had my doubts if the wing design was correct, but it seems ok.
You might be interested in these vids from INCAT Australia,- amazing ship. It uses the Finnish Wartsila companys' waterjets.
JB
Hi Martin, I've made a small plate to go above the jet which should divert the water away from the bucket pushrod, just have to glue it on and test it (possibly tomorrow). Most jet boats tend to have the same problem with back feed out the top as it's pretty much impossible to seal, because the nozzle has to move from side to side. Most of the Hamilton production jet boats had a large platform over the jet unit which stopped water splashing up the transom (see pics of some early Hamilton jet boats).
The lens on my small vid cam is stuffed and I really need to invest in a GO Pro or similar (when I win Lotto)😁 I Have a few other cheapies, but this was the best, until I somehow scratched the lens, and then tried to polish it☹️. Works a bit better at longer range on sunny days. May be able to get it repaired as it is just the domed protective lens over the main tiny lens.
Couldn't do much more on the boat, (waiting for stuff from China) so took my latest plane (finished early this year and never tested) down to the big playing fields for some high speed taxi runs. on the last run, it actually took off accidentally, (but very smoothly) before I was ready and ended up putting it back down quickly but bending a landing gear strut. I consider it very successful as I now know it will fly, and my wing construction around the electric retract was strong enough to bend the 4mm landing gear wire. Same thing happened with another own design, plane but I was in a position to keep going after it leapt off the ground unexpectedly, and I found it flew perfectly! At least today provided something positive which is always good. This is one I made from some photographs of a one off prototype. Had my doubts if the wing design was correct, but it seems ok.
You might be interested in these vids from INCAT Australia,- amazing ship. It uses the Finnish Wartsila companys' waterjets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nP1K6nS_lLQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IA9mSeNnaGE
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Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
{"text":"Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away\ud83d\ude0a Happiness filled I were\ud83d\ude01!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.\n\n I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.\n\nJust waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, FINALLY TAKES A BATH !","media":[{"id":"159895592917","name":"159895592917","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/159895592917/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/159895592917/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5li5cfjq7uI"}
Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
Managed to connect up the motor once all the drive bearings were in.. first video is with a 7.2v battery (which was actually nearly flat!) and then in the second video with a fully charged 11.1v lipo!
Might get the Atlantic RIB to plane yet..
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Managed to connect up the motor once all the drive bearings were in.. first video is with a 7.2v battery (which was actually nearly flat!) and then in the second video with a fully charged 11.1v lipo!
Might get the Atlantic RIB to plane yet..