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Model Boats Website Team
January 2019: 13 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 20 people
I have built a few of Vics plans and found them very easy to construct. He does build them a bit heavy an underpowered but.....they are solid and safe.......Starlet, Hydro bat, Scudder And currently got the Zing Ray under construction. The Starlet is a dream to sail. Hydro bat very fast and very responsive to water rudder input. A favourite with the grand kids. Scudder looks quite weird but it lives up to its name. Grandkids love this as well. Another water rudder model. If these are used in really weedy lakes the rudder will pick up some trailers so i have fitted a 3mm rod running from mid keel to lower rudder pivot point. The weeds simply slide off. The Zing Ray is a shovelnose hydroplane still under construction. The biggest source of quite a bit of discussion is the conversion from ic to electric. Using a base of 3.5cc produces 400w or about 1000grams of thrust, these models seem to work ok. And yes i am a Vic Smeedfan 🤓
Ok boys has anyone built this great mans hydroplane and either re engined or insralled a brushless outrunner. Bearing in mind that i am building this boat to operate at correct scale speed not bat out of hell speed. Correct acceleration and speed always enables the model to perform correctly during turns etc, anyhow. The only modification other than the powerplant is using a flex drive.
Hi fellow mariners, winter approaches time to get a couple of projects under way. Is there a general rule for the positioning of the pontoons in order not to flip over at speed. I am using a nqd water jet for propulsion mounted in the centre hull. The pontoons will be hydroplane shaped with a step half the length of the lower surface. Aluminium tubes will run from one pod thru the main hull into the other pod. There will not be any panel shrouding between the pods and the main hull like a true hydroplane. Overall length about 30cm not sure of the width yet. Have seen a few foam builds on utube but really no help. Any help would be appreciated Gordon from downunder😆
this was how she was first built. as a lobster smack with wet wells to bring the catch back alive. she is 40ins single mast single jib massive amount of sail area. short heavy pond keel.aux motor fitted and auto bilge pump fitted. hates a breeze above 5 knots. when the main is out about half, she suddenly becomes lee helmed. will rectify this in the near future. had a complete electrical at the pond, rescued by our rescue barge. difficult to keep on course, no wonder they went to schooner rig
built this one a few years ago. she is fitted with an aux motor only used when we were becalmed. bilge pump auto ops a couple of times in really high wind and foolishly left the topsail up. drop bulb keel installed. flyin jib loosely tethered to jib boom. she is about 30ins and the schooner rig fits quite nicely into the back of my outlander without demasting. she is lovely to sail
I got my first kit back in 1974. It went to god during a house shift. Over the last 4 yeays i have built another 2 Emmas. The first is a 30in model ofthe schooner rig and recently a 48in model of the original single masted smack. The schooner is fitted with a bulb keel tee shaped and sails beautifully in all strengths of wind. The smack is a 5 knot max sail due to the massive amount of sail area. The smack was fitted with a pond bulb seal as most of its sailing was in reedy ponds. The winch system on both boats sre endless which work beautifully using 6v. I have a heap of photos if reqd
Pontoon top surfaces skinned and sealed. Engine cowling epoxied and faired to spinner backplate. Donitello nose rough shaped out of polyester foam and glued inti position. Evil eyes an attempt at frivolity. Not sure how the windscreen will panout yet. The nose looks like the DC3 and DC4s i used to work on in the late 60s at Essendon Airport Melbourne
My charger has a storage setting which i always use after a sail as insisted by our local battery supplier guru. No problems at all with durability, full charging or high amp useage. Wrap 2 elastic bands around your stored lipos so you immediately know its status. The first elastic band is put on to a used battery immediately upon removal from model. Works for me now i am nearing 70 and my brain function 'aint what it used to be'
Vic Smeed plans of a rather ugly twin pontoon hydroplane air driven. Runs a 35 ic but will have a brushless 300w turning a 8x6 electric pusher. Water rudder pivot fwd of prop thrust line. Photo shows most of the detail with styrofoam flotation built in
Olly49 Still trying a few combinations to get it right. Started off with a 2212t6 2200kv with a 7x3.5 prop.....good power but high battery usage 3S 3000mah dedicated. The video of the maiden, I ran a 2212t? 1000kv with a 3 bladed 6x4E pusher.......much better battery life although not much fwd speed but ok to learn its handling characteristics. I am sure that my attention span has dropped to goldfish level. If you want to keep the traditional power pod look using a pusher prop then the first photo above is the go. The power pod, fan cowling and rudders as a removable assembly and screwed down to the aft deck would be ideal. Before fitting the aft deck epoxy 4 t-nuts (3mm) as the anchor points for the removable pod. I have seen some 9inch assemblies and they she really quick and manoeuvrable. Hope this helps.
Hello Colin Hard flat surfaces ok stones grass etc needs a lot of thrust as the skirt drags. Will probably upgrade the lift motor/prop to get more volume with the same air pressure. Would like to converse with a fellow builder to resolve some of these issues. Maybe the problem is that we are upside down😁
Hi all, recently built a Griffon2000 with the brushless upgrade. Just a couple of questions for those who have already built same. Skirt flutter appears abnormal. When the skirt is inflated the model is tail heavy even with the battery in the fwd recess. The cowling was constructed by using 1mm balsa for the inner and outer skins. The rudders are 1.5mm balsa coated with clear poly then a final coat of black spray pack.