Alessandro. I am relieved to think that you won't think that I am crazy, I am not going to be running 5 servos.
It's 6
The five you see are the sail-winch servos
Number 6, for the rudder is already installed in the hull
Luckyduck
FLYSKY has 2 rotary switches and the usual 2 double sticks for 6 channels
channel 1 & 2 right thumb for 2 jib winches
channel 3 & 4 left thumb for fore & main winches
channel 5 left index on rotary switch for rudder
channel 6 right index on rotary switch for staysail winch
FLYSKY has 2 rotary switches and the usual 2 double sticks for 6 channels
channel 1 & 2 right thumb for 2 jib winches
channel 3 & 4 left thumb for fore & main winches
channel 5 left index on rotary switch for rudder
channel 6 right index on rotary switch for staysail winch
Ross - I also have 6 channels on my transmitter, and trying to co-ordinate 3 at once often sends the yacht the wrong way - your brain power and co-ordination must be exemplary.
Luckyduck
I anticipate a lot of messing around. I would find it would take 10 hours of time in the seat, on a new piece of equipment to get to the point where I didn't have to think about each move. ( now, which switch should I move in what direction). After 20 hours you see the situation and the body moves in response, without active thinking
I anticipate a lot of messing around. I would find it would take 10 hours of time in the seat, on a new piece of equipment to get to the point where I didn't have to think about each move. ( now, which switch should I move in what direction). After 20 hours you see the situation and the body moves in response, without active thinking
Hi RossM, I'll start from the last part of your message:
"Remember from an earlier discussion. I ran 5 tonne plow trucks, ..."
Yes, I remember your skills as a driver, I have no doubts about your skills, I have doubts about my skills (or rather certainties, because I'm sure I'm not capable).
Your model can only be driven by you (I have an opposite philosophy, I try to make it easy for everyone), but it's terribly interesting and I admire your work. I'm enjoying it step by step.
You know better than me what the use of twisted cables is, joker. Of course they are not always necessary, I have not used them and I have no problems (as long as everything goes well...) but the purpose of twisting cables is known.
Instead you must forgive me if I still haven't understood something. I hope you will be patient.
I'm sure that after your explanation I will hit my hand on the head and say: "what an idiot I am, I could have figured it out by myself".
So I was left with the idea that you controlled the sails like this:
five channels for the sails and the sixth for the rudder.
You divided the sails like this:
channel 1 & 2 right thumb for 2 jib winches
channel 3 & 4 left thumb for fore & main winches
channel 5 left index on rotary switch for rudder
channel 6 right index on rotary switch for staysail winch
What I didn't understand is the presence of switches, what are they for?
I imagined that each winch went to wind a sheet directly (as for example you can see in the image of the jib that you explained to me some time ago).
I see that each servo, instead, acts on a switch.
I tried to make a hypothesis (but the best thing is to wait for your answer) and it is this: Maybe the channel command acts on the servo that acts on the switch, which activates the winch. Is that so?
If I'm talking nonsense, don't pay attention, it will be my moment of lapse in attention.
Alessandro
when you wrote BRAIDED WIRE, originally my mind fell back to my old industrial automotive days. Braided wire used to ground automobile engines to chassis. (what does Alessandro know that I have never heard of on a model boat??). Next you use the the word TWISTED, referring to the wiring from the servos, that makes more sense.
Yes, your final conclusion for SERVO-SWITCH-WINCH is correct. Yes I have been told this is very old technology. (am I addressing the guys who build boats originally built 70 to 300 years ago? Am I in the right meeting?) It is easily changed and added to, such as adding an extra switching unit. I didn't feel that a servo with a continuous drum would have enough torque or durability to take the load
there will be 5 winches
1 Jib winch
2 Jibs winch
3 Fore sail, fore gaff sail winch
4 main sail, main gaff sail winch
5 Staysail winch (your inspiration, You may have simply asked if the Staysail was going to be controllable. I thought, why not?). Some parts for the Staysail winch are on delivery
Rudder is direct to servo in the usual way
An example of BRAIDED WIRE
[{"id":"172297206036","name":"172297206036","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/172297206036\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/172297206036\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
when you wrote BRAIDED WIRE, originally my mind fell back to my old industrial automotive days. Braided wire used to ground automobile engines to chassis. (what does Alessandro know that I have never heard of on a model boat??). Next you use the the word TWISTED, referring to the wiring from the servos, that makes more sense.
Yes, your final conclusion for SERVO-SWITCH-WINCH is correct. Yes I have been told this is very old technology. (am I addressing the guys who build boats originally built 70 to 300 years ago? Am I in the right meeting?) It is easily changed and added to, such as adding an extra switching unit. I didn't feel that a servo with a continuous drum would have enough torque or durability to take the load
there will be 5 winches
1 Jib winch
2 Jibs winch
3 Fore sail, fore gaff sail winch
4 main sail, main gaff sail winch
5 Staysail winch (your inspiration, You may have simply asked if the Staysail was going to be controllable. I thought, why not?). Some parts for the Staysail winch are on delivery
Ok twisted twisted, that's the right word. You're not at all lenient with my bad translation. Blame Google.
Luckily you managed to figure out what I meant.
I don't want to give you advice but since you still have time you could consider other solutions to simplify the matter.
If I understood correctly, in this way the winch (the final element of this chain: SERVO-SWITCH-WINCH) will be activated either completely rolled up or completely unrolled.
If, instead, you activate the winch directly with the knobs you can adjust the sail as you want (even in the intermediate phases).
Furthermore you will avoid using servos (you could use them for other things) saving money, space and current absorption.
You have, on your radio control, two knobs (that maintain the position) a lever (two channels) that maintains the position and a lever that does not maintain the position and returns to the zero point.
If the problem is represented by the lever that returns to the zero point. I believe that a simple modification can be made by removing the small return spring.
If I am completely off track please tell me and explain why.
P.S. Anyway, now I finally understand what the inspiration I gave you was.
Alessandro
I have 3 sticks positions that return to zero point when released. The switch is a double pole double throw DPDT(does that translate?)
I move the stick to the endpoint, the switch powers on, and winch moves forward. I move the stick to centre or release the stick, the switch moves to neutral/off.
I move the stick to the OTHER endpoint, the switch moves to the other end and current is reversed through the winch.
If I could add 2 more springs to centre the 4th position, I would be thrilled. Otherwise I have to move it back to centre manually
This can take from 5 to 20 seconds to draw in or feed out a sheet. Is there a system that allows me to move a stick to say 60%, and have the sheet move out 60%?
(Alessandro, you have done it again, I have just looked at the problem from a completely different angle again.) Proportional switches instead of mechanical analogue??
I have 3 sticks positions that return to zero point when released. The switch is a double pole double throw DPDT(does that translate?)
I move the stick to the endpoint, the switch powers on, and winch moves forward. I move the stick to centre or release the stick, the switch moves to neutral/off.
I move the stick to the OTHER endpoint, the switch moves to the other end and current is reversed through the winch.
If I could add 2 more springs to centre the 4th position, I would be thrilled. Otherwise I have to move it back to centre manually
This can take from 5 to 20 seconds to draw in or feed out a sheet. Is there a system that allows me to move a stick to say 60%, and have the sheet move out 60%?
(Alessandro, you have done it again, I have just looked at the problem from a completely different angle again.) Proportional switches instead of mechanical analogue??
Hi RossM, with this exchange of messages I understood well what you mean to do and this is already a good result for me.
"The switch is a double pole double throw DPDT(does that translate?)" I didn't understand this well but I understood the general sense of what you mean to do.
Yes you're right, there are three commands that return to the zero point by themselves, two on one stick and one on the other stick.
"Otherwise I have to move it back to centre manually"
Is this a problem? Don't you like to re-centre the zero manually (I mean with the stick from which the springs have been removed)?
I'm thinking that even for the two knobs (and for a movement of a stick) you have to search for the zero point yourself. They don't go there by themselves, right?
These are just hypotheses, reasonings, thoughts written out loud.
Alessandro,
DPDT switch
ON. X X
OFF X X
ON. X X
A 3 POSITION SWITCH ON or OFF or ON, WITH 2 CONTACTS AT EACH POSITION
You may have another name for it
One of the rotary switches is for the rudder, rarely being completely centred. No problem with no self centering.
It would be NICE if the second rotary switch and one stick would go to OFF when released. Otherwise I have to manually put it there accurately each time, a small problem. (does anyone know if a centering spring can be ADDED to a transmitter stick?)
A 3 POSITION SWITCH ON or OFF or ON, WITH 2 CONTACTS AT EACH POSITION
You may have another name for it
One of the rotary switches is for the rudder, rarely being completely centred. No problem with no self centering.
It would be NICE if the second rotary switch and one stick would go to OFF when released. Otherwise I have to manually put it there accurately each time, a small problem. (does anyone know if a centering spring can be ADDED to a transmitter stick?)
I have added a self centering spring to my Turnigy(FlySky) i6 transmitter on the throttle stick.
Quite easy to do and the parts are cheap.
What transmitter do you have?
Robbob
transmitter is the FLYSKY FS-I6. I have no use for non-centering switches. no throttle control. Only excitement would be holding channel 3 stick DOWN to start up receiver, no big deal
So, you have already done what I want to do. IT'S DO-ABLE!!
(C$7.95 PLUS C$1.90 shipping from ALIEXPRESS, IT'S IN MY CART!!)
thanks
Ross
transmitter is the FLYSKY FS-I6. I have no use for non-centering switches. no throttle control. Only excitement would be holding channel 3 stick DOWN to start up receiver, no big deal
So, you have already done what I want to do. IT'S DO-ABLE!!
(C$7.95 PLUS C$1.90 shipping from ALIEXPRESS, IT'S IN MY CART!!)
I'd like to show you guys a couple of young winches. JIBS, you may already know, but STAYS'IL is new. (did I just say that out loud?)
[{"id":"172398873439","name":"172398873439","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/172398873439\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/172398873439\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
Lew
Florida, USA