Commodore and Jumpugly thanks for the info about Callie graphics. Len

Commodore 100%! Callie is, without a doubt, the Goddess of Graphics!!! I use her service all the time!
👍

By far the easiest way to get great looking graphics is just to order them online form "Callies" . I have used all kinds methods. Callies is definitely the best!! Just look her up, describe what what you need and very soon, for a great price, you will get professional graphics, like these.!!

If you have an ink jet printer and a PC you can easily make your own decals.

Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸

I am with Lew…custom made decals are a great route.
Although I almost always do my own art make a stencil and then lightly trace directly onto the transom and then hand paint them.
But, to avoid the “steady hand” game (which I do more and more now that I’m getting older) send your original art to an outfit that will print you a decal.
😉

Depends on the look you are trying to achieve. If the real boat has the name painted on, then you will need to either paint it on, use decals, or some very thin vinyl. If the name is raised lettering the you could use some thicker letter stickers. (A lot of model builders use fairly thick plastic letters to simulate a painted on name and it distracts from the model.)

One consideration is wear or scrapes which can damage the name.

I use various methods and the most common is to make my own decals and apply several coats (at least 5) of clear finish over the lettering.

Lew
Florida ⛱️, USA 🇺🇸

What’s the best way to add boat names ie do you paint them using a template or use stickers ?

Schmango,
Love the picture's of your Sea Rover up on the plane. She looks wicked. Shame about she leaks a bit though.
I have just been and mixed up some good old Cascamite and dribbled
that along the keel of the boat I am building.
But there are plenty of other epoxy resins out her that you can run down the keel to stop the leaks. But she sure looks great oup on the plane.

After all the calculations are done, nothing beats put the boat in the water and see how she goes. Then perform temperature evaluation by putting hand on motor.

Looking great to meeting

Update - the 550 drill motor worked a treat on the 16.4v . I didn’t push it too hard and it still got pretty hot. I think 8.4v will be sufficient so that’s my next test.
Turns out these old boats aren’t made from the best materials….. the skin is leaking around the keel ☹️ which means the old circ 1960 ply is now wet inside my new paint. I should have epoxied it .

Exactly Chris, very good.

Thanks ChrisF. Too many variables, besides the motor and prop dimensions (diameter, pitch, lead, etc.). Got to consider the hull size, shape, weight, even the wind resistance when you talk about speed. Always nice to hear the actual results (run in the water) given the equipment and boat used. Good luck.

Lew
Florida 💤, USA

Hi Lew

Unloaded refers to the rpm of the motor that it is designed to achieve when it is running in fresh air. The manufacturer for instance may state 10k. rpm on 12 volts.

Loaded refers to when the motor is actually being used in a boat etc. The resistance of the water and to a lesser extent losses due to the coupling and bearings mean that less than 10k. rpm will be achieved. 80% is usually used, so that may drop to 8k. rpm.

Obviously using a too big a diameter prop, or one that is very coarse will reduce this further. Hence why I'm thinking that a 40mm prop should be Ok. Better to have a motor spinning freely near its max. design speed than one labouring at a lower rpm and producing heat.

As Boatshed says, trying different props is the way to choose the best one for this boat, but unlike for a race boat, a number of sizes, within reason should work.

I still want to be convinced by the battery being used and until sufficient rpm is achieved you are never going to get decent performance. The basics of the battery and particularly the motor have got to be sorted.

Chris

Surely you could get it up on the plane by swapping and playing with different propellors.
Try using S type props as well they work well, and compared to the same size as a standard size they give a fair bit more speed.

ChrisF...

I noticed in your posting: "To plane you want around 9000 - 10000rpm loaded, so around 12000rpm unloaded."

Why would you need more RPM to make a lighter boat achieve the same speed as a loaded boat? Are the numbers reversed? Just curious.

Lew
Florida, USA

Boatshed... good observation. I pulled the prop (still in the original packet) out of my "drives box" and you are correct. In fact I have two of these "Graupner 2308.40" and they both state "CW". Over on this side of the ocean that would be "CCW". This is an older prop from Graupner, perhaps before 2010. Some of the pictures of props in the closed bags show right of left hand rotation instead of CW and CCW.

(The intent of this posting was to help solve a lack of speed for the "Sea Rover", and was supposed to suggest the size, type, and pitch of the propeller as inadequate. I'm glad you pointed this out though.)

Thanks',

Lew
Florida ☀️😎, USA

I see what you mean. I seem to remember reading somewhere that confusion arises because some prop manufacturers describe props using one convention but others state the opposite!

From the Prop Shop web-site: "Please note that propeller rotation is based on the British and American standard (viewing the boat from the stern) which is the opposite to that in Germany."

As Graupner are German then that probably explains it?

Chris

ChrisF
Yes, That's what I am saying. on the label it says the prop is CW clockwise.
But if you look carefully at the propellor I am sure that it is a CCW Counter-clockwise propellor.
What I was saying is I had been messing about with a couple of my own propellors, as I mainly use CCW ones and the one in the packet looks like a CCW one to me.
I did say I might be wrong but I spent a good 25 minutes going back and forwards turning them back to front before I posted my comment.
Even when you turn a CW back to front it still looks the same as it does the other way and vise versa with a CCW.

To me they are both CCW props, as are about 90% of the ones I own.

Rotation a droite is to the right, so as you say clockwise.

CCW would be counter-clockwise.

Chris

LewZ,
I was looking at your picture of your propellor in the packet. I was a bit confused as is has CW on the label. I assume that means it it clock wise. Is that correct. Or am I mistaken, I have been fumbling about with a couple of my own props here by the computer and it looks like CCW to me??

Schmango you said the motor is out of a drill and they typically are not high speed motors even if they are coupled to a gearbox.
Len

Hi Schmango, as already said, I have no experience with fast motorboats, but I was firmly convinced that the problem was only in the number of revolutions. Maybe too few.
Luckily Chris intervened and confirmed that you want to be even faster and he advised you to increase the number of laps.
He has experience and I am convinced that it is the right advice.
If you also want to work on the size of the propeller, remember that a larger diameter usually requires a more powerful motor than the one you used with the smaller propeller.
For the wheelbase, even if I have no experience, I know that a longer wheelbase (correctly correlated with the number of revolutions) increases the speed (all other conditions being equal), but I have heard from many who then have problems with starting from a standing start or in restarts.

What battery are you using to give you 16.8v as that is pretty high and I reckon you should get on the plane with 11.1v/12v or even less as jbkiwi says.

I think you should be alright with a 40mm prop and I think your problem is a lack of revs. 7000rpm is too low and how are you measuring? If unloaded then definitely too low. You don't want to go too big with the prop as you will probably have overheating problems.

To plane you want around 9000 - 10000rpm loaded, so around 12000rpm unloaded.

Can't find the rpm for your Traxxas motor but I did find one on 24v that only revved to 10000rpm so I'm thinking the 16.8v doesn't rev very high either being as it is a high torque motor for off-road vehicles. Nice motor but I don't think it's suitable for your use.

I can't advise on a motor as I use brushless.

Chris

Yes , want it to go much faster - at least on the plane . I have wired up a 550 mabuchi motor from a 12v drill but i need to make sure i don’t cook it with the 16.4v

Great blog lots of information useful for medium size boats tanks peter3l👍👍

Hi Schmango.

The previous post was to succinctly answer only your question.
For your problem in general I would like to ask you some questions: How do you like the navigation of the RC models of the videos (message nr. 18) of jbkiwi?
Do you want to go faster? Or are you much slower?
I saw some photos of navigation, do you also have some videos to show us?
I ask you this to understand what your navigation expectations are.

Hi Schmango.

If you know the exact point at which the radio control throttle stick does not exceed 12 volts, I don't think you will burn out the motor.
However, it doesn't seem like a good idea to me. I don't see the advantage of setting a higher voltage at the ends of the motor and then being very careful (manually and therefore in an uncertain manner) not to exceed the voltage threshold suitable for that motor.

Perhaps the answer might be back at the prop conversation. You said 40mm, a little over 1-1/2 inch. I happen to have a 40mm Graupner propeller (left in photo) in my drives box, not impressive😔 looking for a 30 inch boat wanting to plane. If this is close to what you have, I doubt 15,000 RPM will achieve that speed.

Now look at the other prop😉 in the photo. That is a 2-3/4 inch prop with a high pitch and much more surface area on the blades. Big difference, and probably more like what you are looking for.

Out of curiosity does the real boat of that design plane?

Lew
Florida , USA

If I run a stock 12v 550 motor on 16.8v but at say 70% max throttle will I still cook the motor ?

I didn't know what it was named I want to go 49" one with a twin prop and rudder setup it goes well with two 600 motors with a gearbox on each motor connected to a 12 volt lead acid battery. as you can see it looks like some modding was done.

Hi jbkiwi.

I'm intrigued and I'm looking at this model in your harbour.

Hi SCH
I use this combination in my 30" Bates type cabin cruiser, works well with a 2s 2200mah LiPo.
Not sure if you are ok with LiPos. You may have to modify mounts etc (can buy mounts to suit these motors as well.) ESC's not perfect, but a cheap test option.

The motors come in various turns, so you can start with say 34T and see how it goes. If it's too fast or slow, try more T (slower) or fewer T faster. You can play with props as well. These motors are rated at 7.2v but 8v is ok if you don't run flat out all day. you can buy clip on fans and fins for cooling if needed. First vid is with a 45T (too fast) second vid with an 80T.
JB

Sea trials were a little underwhelming sadly . I have grossly underestimated the rpm of the traxxas titan 775 on 16.4v being 7,000rpm .
The result is a poultry speed as you can see.
So it’s back to the drawing board 🙄

I need to find a 775 motor that can spin the 40mm prop much faster on 16.4v and get it on the plane at least.
Any ideas welcome .

A GOOD MORNING SCHMANGO
you seem to be a little party animal when i see the people on your model boat. What do people say a dirty mind is a joy forever.....😊😊😊

Hi Schmango,
Seems to me that the Sea Rover is no more than a Sea Scout with extended cabin sides and a (IMHO) silly looking pseudo sun canopy.
As such I guess the cabin sides are made of 3mm ply, as in my Sea Scout.
So I used 3mm tinted plexiglass which made it dead easy to fit to the 3mm ply cabin walls
Windows were cut using a scroll saw. They were glued in using Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue. See my Build Blog link below.
Dad built her in the early sixties. I renovated her in 2017/18.
Cheers, Doug😎

https://model-boats.com/blogs/28209#44511

https://model-boats.com/blogs/28209

Hi Schmango it would have been nice to see some pictures of the detailed work you carried out.

I generally buy window material from stationary store, (Staples). I buy plastic file folders which are available in various colors. I prefer light blue or green which resembles tinted glass. So far it has seemed durable and is bendable. To secure it I use “canopy cement” for airplanes.

What glue are you using to fit you windows in with? I have purchased Glue'n'Glaze but haven't tried it yet.

I agree about the CD cases, far too brittle. Some food packaging etc. provides a good source though I buy A4 sheets off EBay.

Chris

She's a sharp looker! 😉

Be careful with the CD cases, they can shatter. I have a plastics place nearby me so I’m lucky. I can get clear lexan sheets.

Those colors look great. Fantastic job👍

Just the windows to go in and it’s ready for sea trials. I’m going to try and cut up old cd cases unless anyone has better ideas for windows .
The traxxas 775 on 16.4 volts sounds very “tame” so I’m hoping I haven’t got a too low rpm set up . It has a 40mm prop

Hi BOATSHED, my wife asked me why I had so many boats when I can only sail one at a time. I asked her why she had so many pairs of shoes.😉

Game, set, match terrymiff.

Hi Schmango,
I used car striping on my small RAF Crash Tender. I bought some
1/4" white and put that on it, I couldn't paint a straight line and cheated with stripe from Halfords. I done that about 5 years ago. I started building it back in 2015 and and I just stick it to one side , on top of our display unit. The display unit is full of Afghan Hound ornament's, we used to breed Afghan Hounds and show them. My wife doesn't moan about it being up there. But when I bring some other boat in she then say's not another one, You have got a shed to do them in. If you sold some of them off you would be able to work in there. I am still trying to work out the motor for the Crash Tender. I keep swapping from a brushed to a brushless and cannot decide which is the best for it.

Great to see another Classic model power boat given a new life extension!

Well done - I hope you enjoy running it. 👍

Thanks for your comment- a little secret is that the stripe is automotive min stripe ! Much easier and cleaner than painting and gives you a very clean edge. Also covers up an paint bleed 😁

Hi Schumango,
I really like your choice of colours, and the white coach stripe on the chine and around the superstructure really sets it off. I congratulate you on doing this. I know just how tricky it can be. 😉

Looks Great! Keep those pix coming Schmango!