Get after it Jump!! Looking forward to your build.

A decent first day. For an old Sterling kit the die “crushing” was not too bad, but required the usual sit-down at the cutting board for a few hours with a pile of sharp razor blades to get everything trimmed and notched properly. It’s often annoying and laborious, but worth the effort with these old kits…especially the Sterlings.

However, I did make one mistake by installing the stringers before the shears not fully realizing that the shears were more important to aligning the ribs than the stringers were. I must admit that in decades past this sort of mistake would have floored me, but nowadays I try to take a step back and calmly undo the damage and raid my scrap wood box for repair stock. I save everything.
More to follow…
😉

Beautiful model, Jumpugly, I love it, but how long is it?

Hi there! It's a monster at 55 inches (139.7cm). Going to take a ton of ballast!
😂👍

Flipped over to get the lower hull construction underway. Despite the wonderfully pre-carved sections, there will be a ton of carving, sanding, and shaping to be done. Will have to get out extra dust masks and take it outside for that! Oh Brother!
😉😆

Thanks for the reply Jumpugly, sorry but I no longer received notification emails. Yes, wow! It's a very long, very interesting ship model.

Similar size to my H Class 1936 Destroyer HMS Hotspur Jump.
She's 135cm LOA.
I used two 6V 7Ah SLA batteries as 'useful ballast'.
She was also stuffed with doohickeys making noises, smoke, lights and moving gun turrets and radar.
Watching your build with interest.
Cheers, Doug😎
PS The sub is 107cm LOA. 1/72nd scale Type 1A U25, also from 1936.

I loved the Scout. She is a fun build. With the fittings now available, detailing will be a joy. I agree with Doug as well, there is plenty of room for SLA's to form ballast. Back in the day, they did not exist.
I think Sterling used the same dies for entire production runs. Missouri has the same delightful crushed edges.
Make sure that you plan for a smoker!
I am looking forward to your build.😊

Hey gang. First of all, thanks for the encouraging words and support!

I am VERY open to suggestions as to what motor to use on a boat this big: 55 inches (139cm) with at least 6 pounds (maybe?) of ballast, with a single screw, and still hold a scale speed.
I thought maybe an 80T 540 like the Lumba Lumba would be good. All I have lying about the shop are two spare Kyosho LeMans motors swiped from wrecked Kyosho Vipers.
Any suggestions will be be greatly appreciated because when it comes to motors I am not the brightest bulb in the chandelier! And let's take into considering the dimensions of the boat; Doug what's in the destroyer?!
Thnx in advance!

Hi Jump!! Build's looking great. As far as motors you have some options, depending on what size prop and the total weight. I use a Zippkits 650KV outrunner in my Taucher Wulf, she's ballasted to roughly 16 pounds, give or take a few ounces. Motor works well on a 2 cell lipo, comes back ambient or maybe a bit warmer, but not hot. That motor might be ok in your Scout, since I take it your probably gonna run a 6 volt gell cell. You can also find outrunners of the same diameter but longer at roughly the same KV, get a little mor torque. If I were to go brushed, I think a 65 or 80 turn crawler might work, or go to a 550 motor with a gearbox.
Jump, if you're not used to brushless motors and decide to go that route, PM me with any questions you have, especially before making a purchase. I'll help in any way I can, plus there's a lot of guys on this board that can help you out I'll wager.
Cash

Remembering back when I built my Scout, Dumas Pittman were about the only hobby motors available. The Dumas gearbox was terribly noisy. I would suggest going with a 12volt system, simply because it gives more options, in my deluded opinion, for powering accessories, ie, lights smoke sound, ect.
IF you can find one, and I might know someone with one for sale, a Johnson 970 motor would work great for you. It has enough torque to use without a gearbox, has moderate(5000) rpm, and draws very little amps at stall. Under normal use, I get a whole day running.
PM me.😊

Congratulations Jumpugly, that American scout kit ius a real score. It will take some time build it. If I remember right it has lots of rigging and about a mile of railings. Portholes were from shoelace eyelets, I suspect you can do something better. In fact, you likely do something better with a lot of the parts, Sterling fittings were all white metal and not the best. Nowadays you can get computer printed stuff which is much better. similar. You don't have to use the decking, which I believe was some prescored wood. You can do better decking from individual strips(I know that would take some time)

I have to modify everything I build, because parts come in a kit that doesn't mean you have to use them. I would like to see if it could be transformed to a Liberty ship or something similar,. Do the plans show a radio control with vacuum tubes? I remember Dumas kits did, Sterling models was in Philadelphia which is near where I live. They have been gone a long time It is nice to see the legacy lives on.

Happy New Year Commodore!
Yessir, it was a lucky find and although the box was in tatters everything seems to be there.
And yes, the eyelet portholes will have to go. Unless I can find something a bit more to scale at the local fabric store.
LOL!
I am confident I can cheat in a mountain of HO scale railings and will try my best To figure the deck layout and planking.
Be that as it may I will definitely be sourcing out as many 1:100 scale fittings I can find etc. The trick being the research. This particular C-2 freighter/cargo ship was designated an S-AJ5, which meant "No Passengers," but not sure how that affected the overall layout.

More studying to do, but will hold on the nitty-gritty untill after the hull is planked! More CA is on order!

😉

After you finish your Scout, I think a Harbour Tug in the same scale would look really cool, groovy, slick, awesome 🤩

Jump, if you are considering a tug for your next build here are some of mine of various sizes & shapes to spark your interest. If you start a build I’d be happy to offer assistance.

Thank you Chum! What a beautiful fleet you have there, all expertly built. I can only hope this old freighter will come out as well.
No worries I’m not shy so when I get in a bind, I’ll come running.
😉

Your Scout is 1/96 scale the Revell Harbour Tug is 1/106 or the Dumas Carol Moran in 1/72 there are some off brand kits too.

Hi all, just checking through the theads and looking at brushed motors. I suggest not to use car motors to drive props. Car motors have armatures wound to give big starting torque, usually fewer turns and take more current.
Boat motors have 25 - 35 turns on the armature as you want the power to increase as the voltage increases.

As far as batteries go although the SLA battery looks a more economical buy they do not have the watt/hour content of the NiMh or LiPo batteries.

The reason is that the SLA batteries are rated on a 20 hour discharge rate whereas the others are rated at the 5 hour rate. If you do some arithmetic you can see why.

I query the offer of a PM to talk about brushless motors as we all like to either learn (like me) or get involved, which is what the forum is about.

Regards
Roy

I agree, especially about SLA batteries, but they have the additional benefit of doubling as ballast as well as an economic power source. In order to get the most benefit from them, they really should be matched to the motor.
My PM comment to Jumpugly was an offer of a motor, not so much a private conversation about motors.
Cheers All😀

Hi Tora' do you find that the slow speed on brushless motors is a bit errratic compared to the brushed ones?
It is not noticeable if geared down, my info goes back to some bought 10 years back, have things changed?

For low power but a big Prop, I use high voltage motors (cheap) around 24 volts but on a 7.2 volt battery. You can watch the prop rotate in the water.
Roy

Roycv,
I really have little experience with brushless motors, except the few in the planes that I fly (or try to). All of my ships run brushed motors because 10 they cost less, 2) the ESC's cost less, 3) I need the ballast weight and have the room to fit SLA's in, and lastly because I do not have the high current draws of most brushless motors.
All that said, I have seen quite a few models successfully run bushless at low rpms.
Lastly, I have a lot of respect for LIPO's and the damage they can do in a very short period of time.....😆

I run model boats with both brushed and brushless motors, and have found that the current consumed by a brushless is significantly less than that consumed by a brushed motor for a given level of performance.
I am also a little wary of Lipo batteries, but have been using them for about a year in R/C crawlers without any issues at all.
Brushless motors are unconcerned by the chemistry of the battery that powers them, my brushless boats are perfectly happy with NiMH batteries. The only reason I haven't yet swapped them over to Lipos is that I'd need to add more lead to bring the boats back to the water line with the lighter batteries.
Alternatively, you can use bigger (as in greater capacity) Lipos as a direct replacement for NiMH or lead acid batteries. That is probably the route I will take when my NiMH batteries begin to get too old to hold charge. Having said that, none of my NiMHs are less than five years old and are all used regularly.

Roy - I use brushless non-sensored out runners in my Robbe police boat and they are controllable at very low revs. They are just cheap ones from Hobby King, as are the ESCs.

Fascinating stuff guys, and as always, a learning experience.
I love this site!
👍😊

Right now I have a complete Kyosho tub Nicad set-up with all electronics that I salvaged from another old Viper wreck. I still have to figure out my prop dimensions (4 blade maybe for a more scale look out of the water) and my rudder control layout using what I have on hand. Considering the length of the hull, I may use some lengthy steel bar stock for ballast.

However, we are talking a boat that may weigh upwards of 10 pounds when done. My luck with "brushed" motors has always been a happy one so I am leaning in that direction.
Just not sure if my extra 80T 540 that i have sitting in my stash will be adequate.
🤔

So I will continue with planking this slab-sided monster in the meantime. I tell you, trying to wet and twist 28" x 4" sheets of 1/8" thick balsa is never as easy as I think. But, I kept the cursing to a minimum. Fore and Aft will be of a more manageable strip variety.
😂

Hello JumpUgly!
I have exactly the same experience with 2mm thick plywood parts (railings). I stole my wife's kettle to steam the parts to make them bendable.
Had to use the milk jug to keep them in shape. .
It had exactly the right diameter.
After painting, I had to steam them again and steal the milk jug again under my wife's protest...
I had my hair cut into a brush cut so I wouldn't get a parting from the rolling pin.... 🤣🤣🤣
In the meantime, peace has returned.
Bb Michel-C.

I received this American Scout model from the grandson of a retired merchant ship captain who built it, then passed away. It needs some TLC that I've slowly been giving it, but every glue joint needs re-gluing, so it's a laborious, long-time restoration project. I'm inspired now to complete it. Thanks!

Yow Rob!!!!!! That is a fantastic build!!!!! The detail work is an inspiration! Thanks for posting this!
👍😊

Michel! I swiped one of my wife's rolling pins! I used just the other day. Boiling water and the rolling pin, works every time!
Or then again, you can go Maine "old-style" and build this huge steam barrel out in the back yard like the Friendship Sloop guys!!!

😂😉

I like Mtronics viper speed controls. The ones I have are designed for brushed motors, some can use Lipo batteries most cannot. I understand brushed motors but brushless motors are not clear to me. Brushless specs talk about rpm and volts but not torque.The heavier a boat is the more power is required for the prop to move it through the water.
I could see the Scout powered by an 850 size motor. You can buy ‘em on eBay for just a few dollars

Commodore!
Thanks so much, I will get on that Toot-sweet!
👍

In a first for me, but I RAN OUT OF GLUE after the upper bow sections were applied. Sheesh!
To add insult to injury I won't go to my usual hobby store to re-supply due to the political dust up I had there (last Fall) with a group of patrons that were not there for models, balsa, and glue, but for other reasons.
I hope someday I can go back, but it's not likely...bummer.

Jumpugly - with the size of that boat, don't bother buying from a store - just go and buy the manufacturers themselves - you are going to need a heck of a lot!!

Aw heck! Don't mess about BUY THE DAMN STORE Jump👍

😎

One at keast mistake I had was an Esc that had no reverse. It was for aircraft ship went fine but not backwards when I tested it. Scout looks great

"Doug what's in the destroyer?!"
Sorry Jump🤔missed your query!
The first incarnation of HMS Hotspur I built in 1966, age 15.
She was 'scaled up to 1:72 from a 1:600 Airfix model.
Using Dad's 6" steel ruler, a plastic micrometer (!) and a slide rule. Remember those??
The only example of model boat building I had before me was the Sea Scout that Dad was building around the same time. So I'm since then the proud possessor of presumably the only hard chine destroyer in existence😁
She was all balsa, keel and formers 1/4", hull sheeting 1/32" 😮, decks 1/8", superstructure 1/16" sheet reinforced in the corners with 1/8" square.
She was free running back then. RC on my pocket money in '66?!😂🤣
She was driven by two tiny Mabuchi motors, the ones with the blue cans and built in mounts.
Power was from an Eveready 6V 'Lantern' dry battery.
Sponsored by Granny and Grandad. Bless their souls.
She was so light that she went like stink and I had to dash round the pond to stop her smashing her bow in on the stone wall of the boat pond in Radnor Park, Folkestone, Kent England. (My home town😉).

Jump on twenty years (No pun intended Jump😁).
Just before moving to Munich in Sept '85 I bought a Sanwa RC set on special offer from the AA (Automobile Association of which I was a member.) Still have it and it still woiks perfectly😀
Back then there were still 3 or 4 decent model shops in Munich (as opposed to the toy and RTR shops of today) where I acquired two 'bog standard' Mabuchi 540 motors driving 40mm screws.
SO FINALLY YOU GET THE ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION AS ABOVE JUMP😁
Don't ask me for the specs coz I have no idea. 540 was 540 back then 'take it or leave it'🙄
The ESC was from HITEC. A ca 2" square alu box with a T03 type power transistor bolted on top and a relay for reversing. Remember those? I still have it and it still works!

Also a 2.2kg SLA accu. The weight of which forced me to increase the freeboard of the ship.
This I did with 1mm ply hull sheeting and I rebuilt the superstructure with 0.5mm ply at the same time.
Result was a ship which at 'All Ahead Flank' made all the RTR so called Speed Boats on the pond look damn silly.
Much to my delight and their proud owners chagrin. Some left in disgust with long faces😁🤣
Others stayed to ask how I had done that or 'Where can I buy one of those mister?'.

Hotspur has been in the 'Reserve Fleet' awaiting refit since 2004.🙄
I now have pairs of 540 and 550 motors of 40 and 80 turns to try out in her.
Whichever are fastest will go into Hotspur, original 36knots, and the slowest into my Graf Spee, original 28knots. Graf Spee came with two 540 size motors of miserable performance.
Pics show Hotspur 'as built' underway in 1966 on Sea Trials' in Radnor Park.
Sorry about the quality, I only had a Kodak 127 Box camera back then😌
Current status - see pics 3 and 4 and below.

For your single screw ship Jump I think you'd be better off with fewer turns, = more torque, which you will need to get that big ship moving. She wasn't designed for speed probably max ca 18knots so 80 turns might be too many. Use SLAs for both power and ballast, the ship wasn't a sprinter. Scale prop probably 45 or 50mm? Possibly larger, from what I have seen being built in South Korean shipyards😮
Cheers, Doug😎
PS I swear by Hobbywing Quicrun series of ESCs, and not because they cause problems😁😉
On the contrary, I have standardised on their 16BL30 for brushless up to 30A, and the 1060 for brushed up to 60A. Not that I need 60A, coz I don't build racers, but it's nice to have some reserve capacity😉Been using them for 7 years or so and not a whiff of trouble or overheating.
Saw a discount offer a few years ago so now have a modest 'yard stock'.😊

Bin there dun that Hhager🤔
Maybe one day I'll get around to using it in my modified Simprop Zaunkönig (=Wren).
A small double-decker which I've modified by doubling the span of the top plane.😁
Originally designed to fly with an 045/047 glowplug sometime I'll get around to fitting a brushless E motor. Have no idea what size though!!!
What am I gonna do with a gallon of Glo fuel????
Cheers, Doug😎

Thanks for sharing Doug. 😉
The Destroyer’s life has been a good one! She is a true survivor and an heirloom now.
The motor mentions have been a help as I opted to try a 35T 540 to push the freighter around at a speeds i can manage on the lake. My Lumba Lumba has an 80T 540 that looks nicely scale to me. The lower torque motor in the Scout is still very TBD.

BTW: My main memory of Glow fuel is a hand full of prop cuts from an old Cox control line Stuka! The good old days! 🤣

Doug, not trying to be a wise guy, but in brushed motors more turns equal more torque. A 27 turn 540 motor is considered a “stock” motor in RC racing, a 23 turn with a non adjustable (for timing) end bell is a “hot stock” motor. Usually you’ll see modifieds with lower turns and sometimes different gauge windings, I:e 20 turn single, 15 turn double, etc. Most brushed crawler motors start at 27 turns and go up to 65-85 turns at most. That’s on the 540 motors, the longer can 550 motors are wound a little different but the basic principle still applies.
Cash

Jump? Go to Amazon. I hate to say it but the have ok prices on Bob Smith CA, and I’ve started using another they carry called Starbond. Both glues work well. If you’re anywhere near a Hobby-Lobby, their house brand CA works well too, much better than most of the “super glue” you see at Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. One exception I’ve found is Gorilla Glue CA. Not the best, but for the price their medium CA works pretty good.
Cash

Hey Jump? Forgot to add the the Scout’s coming along nicely…like the hot rudders of old would say, “she’s Bitchin’!”
Cash

Hey Cash!
Managed to get some Pacer Zap on Amazon...and hit a store near the submarine base in New London for more.

As for Bob Smith, he's is pretty much the "King of CA," and his stuff is equal Pacer in every way. Most hobby stores that have their "name" printed on the CA bottles (like they actually manufacture it! 😉) is actually Bob Smith product through a license with him.
One store owner told me that you have to sign a 600 bottle contract with good old Bob for him to send his stuff along with YOUR store name on it!
Sheesh! Capitalism at its best or worst. Depending on your point of view. Btw: was not happy with Gorilla CA, but in a pinch it's better than the Titebond crap at the Depot.
😂

Speaking of New London...the sub museum is AWESOME and it's Free!!! Plus you get to go on the NAUTILUS!!!!!!!

Thanks Cash.
I sit corrected😔
I must admit I had an uncomfortable feeling in my gut that, not having your experience of RC cars (let alone racing), I might have got that bassackwards🤔
My acquisition of the 540s and 550s with various turns is my first experiment in that area.
Given your qualified info I expect that I shall end up with the 40s in the destroyer and the 80s in Graf Spee and Belfast which are much heavier, being double hulled plastic.
I'm interested to find out what the performance difference between the 540s and 550s with the same turn number will be.
Thanks again👍
Cheers, Doug😎
PS Ref Gluper Sue 😁 I like the Deluxe Materials range, which I can get in Germany via Krick.
They have a good range of consistencies and setting times (fiddle time).
I wipe the nozzle with a non-linting cloth before closing. Only had trouble with their 'Rocket' version which goes off almost instantly😮

Hi Jumpugly, I'm watching your progress, beautiful hull.

Sorry if I didn't give you advice on choosing the motors, but my philosophy could leave you perplexed (apart from the fact that I have little experience in RC model boating).

I have many brushed electric motors but I don't know the characteristics of almost all of them because I got them by dismantling other devices, I barely know the voltage.
I bought a few.

On the choice between brushed and brushless I have always preferred brushed for economic and practical reasons. However I have nothing against brushless, on the contrary.
The only real drawback of brushed motors is the wear of the electric brushes. This must be taken into account in general, but in my case I think I will die before the brushes, because I sail very little.
The higher cost of a brushed motor also means the higher cost of the ESC.

For realistic navigation I am not suited to give you advice because I always choose much more powerful motors than necessary.
My idea is this: to navigate at realistic speed (for example to make a demonstration video) I go to minimum. However I have always liked the possibility of having enough power in case of need. For those who navigate in small club lakes this need does not exist.

I prefer the direct connection to the propeller shaft without a gear reducer, only for construction simplicity and reduction of weight and bulk. Those who do not have space and weight problems are right to use mechanical gear reducers.

For batteries I have always preferred those with the worst characteristics, that is, lead batteries of the VRLA family of the AGM type, only because they are the cheapest.
I had considered replacing them with NiMH batteries in case I needed to lighten the ship and recover weight, but there was no need.
Even if they are the best I do not like LiPOs so for ships I have always avoided them.

I read the messages of this nice topic a bit quickly because I was behind but I basically agree with ToraDog's opinions.

Hi all, most of the 540 and 550 can motors are made by Mabuchi. When I last saw a statistic they were making half a million a day, 1.4 Billion a year!

As some will know the last digit refers to the number of armature coils 540 = 3, 545 = 5.

Frequently missed out are the 2 preceeding letters that refer to the shape of the motor, R = round and the second letter the brush type to the commutator.
The smaller motors are RE260 etc, (round and metal brushes)

To compare motors you need the next 4 digits. For true motor comparison at least for standard ones see link.
Opt for translation to English for all to be revealed.
Hope this helps
Roy

https://www.mabuchi-motor.com/product/knowledge/classification/designations.html

Roy,
Great link! Thanks for posting it.
Most manufacturers have similar pages for their motors. Some are really hard to find though.😊

Bow and Stern roughed in.
The stern is a tough job because it's the old...now take this huge block of balsa and "shape to size as illustrated in the plans."
Knives, sandpaper, and bitching the Sterling way!
🙄😂🤣

She's coming right along, looking good. Just needs a sanding.😋😋

Sanding has commenced! Pix to
follow! 😀

Oh No! Is that wood putty I see? I wondered where my can went..🤣🤣🤣🤣

Tora,
On this particular old time kit…it’s a necessary evil, even though I will fiber glass it in the end. 😉

Also the balsa is so old and hairy that will give it a coat of matte poly to raise the grain even more and to make sanding off the hairy grain a bit simpler.
It’s like sanding a surfboard it’s so big!
😂

I am NOT making fun ... even 25 years ago, Sterling should have supplied putty with their models. Don't leave home without it!. F/G is certainly the way to go. Someone even made a hull of her many,many,many moons past.
She will be a great build. Bubbleheads take note: new target about to hit the water. 😀😀😀

No worries Tora! Putty, spackle, drywall mud too! 😂🤣😉

Ahh…carving balsa block, my favorite job..almost as much fun as changing the litter boxes🤣
I’m kidding (mostly). I’ve built an unknown number of model aircraft over the years, and most of them were built up from balsa and ply save for my stint flying RC combat. It took me a while to figure out that it was easier to rough carve with a good long blade, then hit it with 80-100 grit till it was ALMOST to shape, then finish it off with a finer grit. Of course, you have the odd buddy who has a belt sander that states “don’t know what your problem is, belt sander makes that an easy job!”🤣
Anyway, she’s looking good Jump. Keeping an eye on this build! Any ide what her finished ballasted weight is gonna be?
Cash

"drywall mud"
Try Wattle and Daub Jump.😁
Seemed to work fine when they built my old cottage in England in 1860😁
(Don't think they imagined trying to fix electrical outlets or light fixtures though. 😠***** Expletives deleted!)
Following with immense interest👍
Cheers, 😎

Don't laugh Doug,
I have seen it used quite nicely. Especially when using foam insulation, between bulkheads, to fair a hull that will be epoxied. I don't recall any outlets though......🤕

You guys are the best!!!!
😂😂🤣🤣🤣

re post 57, Did you not have a word with the builders Doug, when they handed over the keys?😀
Roy

Trial fitting skeg, stuffing box, and rudder. Interior is spar varnished, as is my habit. So much more to do, but enjoying this quite a bit and for a brief moment thought of turning this hull into a clipper ship…such are the lines!!!
😁🤣

Hi Roy.
Re "Did you not have a word with the builders Doug."
What are you insinuating?
The house was built in 1860, the date is set into the gable wall.
I may be gettin' on a bit but I'M NOT 165 QUITE YET!😜
(I don't look a day over 150😁😆)
Ciao, Doug😎

Awe, come on Doug... if the house fits.....🤣🤣🤣

Wear it! Huh?
Arms out the bedroom windows I suppose.
Other appendages ... 😁
😎

As long as they don't look like cheeky melons....

And I thought 'Mooning' went out with American Graffiti🤔😁

(Sorry about the Threadjacking Jump😔 THEY made me do it, honest Injun!))

😎

I can see it now..that American Scout pulling into harbor in California inthe late 50s or so, some young crewman tuning his radio…and hearing Wolfman Jack.😁

re post 60! Hi Doug I accept what you say but suggest a revisit to your photo, I would have accepted 145 but 160......👍
If it is any consolation my grandfather on the paternal side was born in 1848! Quite a stretch for 3 generations.

My wife said I am an old man though! Of course she is right, that's just in case she reads this!😉
Roy

Foredeck in place as well as motor mount. The mini stone bathroom tiles under the foredeck were installed with a trial fitting of the motor and electronics aft when I was balancing the center of gravity. More will be required, but it's still early.
😉

Hi Jumpugly, this ship is turning out really well, but I'm amazed (once again) by your speed.
Bravo.
You have already prepared the housing for the electric motor.
Whichever motor you choose, he will have to be happy with the splendid doghouse you are preparing for him.
Regarding the right choice of motor, I am preparing a mini guide for you (generic indications, no formulas); I hope you find it useful and enjoyable.
The problem is always the translation, I would like to avoid writing incomprehensible things.

Thank you Alessandro!
I am going to try a 540 35T with a slightly over scaled prop...but not too big. Should be interesting to see if it cruises calmly. Considering the beam I am a more than a bit concerned.
😉

Hull in primer. It's amazing, but for a few minutes I thought this hull might make a super nice clipper ship. Such are the lines, especially the sharp entrance. Or, I might just be losing my mind.
Paint is next then in go the electronics before I set this monster aside and start work on all the topside gingerbread.
😂

Hey Jump,
From one American to another: Yup, we lost our minds....😁

Hi Jumpugly, you really did a great job with the hull, congratulations, very good, BRAVISSIMO!

But I advise you not to modify it into a clipper. Look carefully at the hull of a clipper and note well what the differences are, they are there and they are very big (don't stop at the upper water lines only).
In my opinion, following the original project you will still make a masterpiece.

Alessandro...somedays in my shop my mind tends to wander! I assure you she stays the same.
😉

re 71 post. Yes and sympathy from UK but 4 years and no time off for good behaviour!

We put up with our mistake for a fair while but eventually he went, never to return.

Roy

Intelligent people let their minds wander very often.
Perfect like this, Jumpugly.

Minds that wander, ponder. Minds that stay still stagnate.
You are doing a beautiful job Jump. Have you considered replacing the house balsa with styrene or possible some polyurethane foam sheets? It might make you build easier, given the wood's age. Plus, the foam😊 loves cyano.

Thank you for the kind words guys!!!
😊
And being a styrene junky from 60 years of "plastic fantastic" building and restoration I am seriously considering go the route for the topside work Tora. Or, at the very least, a combination of wood and styrene.
😁

Jumpugly, I'm curious to follow this technique that I don't know.
Post lots of photos and descriptions when you make it please.

A flurry of activity today. Hull painted, minus the stripe and a hastily built stand. Over the next few days I will bench test the motor and electronics before I install them. A coat or two of spar varnish overall and then the hull will rest for a couple of weeks while I start the bridge and assorted superstructures.

Just for grins... I had a spare 1:100 scale architectural figure left over from a Frank Lloyd Wright (Fallingwater) build I did this winter that happens to be the correct scale for this kit. If you look carefully you can see him near the front of the stand.

😉

I see him JP.
'The Man in the White Suit!'😁
Nice hull, and well done with the waterline.👍
Not easy on ships this size, I know well from my 1/72 destroyer.
😎
PS Looks like she's about to be 'Kamikazed' by an ME262😮

The Me262 was salvaged from a recycling bin at the town dump. I waited 13 weeks for replacement parts from Trumpeter! But, it was fun all the same.
😉

Sweet!
If my very aged brain recalls correctly, the shaft/ stuffing box arrangement on the Scout, the Missouri as well, left a lot to be desired, ie, leaked like a seive. A grease tube, nylon washer and shaft collar should take care of things. If not, an o ring stuffing box is good way to go as well.🤞🤞

Good Lord Jump she’s looking goooodddd! I gotta ask, did you glass the hull? It’s sweet work in any case. I think the idea for using plasticard to do the gingerbread is a good idea. For one thing, if your subject had a metal superstructure, it’ll save you time filling and sanding the wood grain to make it smooth enough. On your motor choice, if your running 6 volt gelcell or lead acid you’ll probably be fine, if your doing a 6 cell nimh or 2 lipo you might want to up the winds to 45 or so. Of course, you can adjust your throttle endpoint as well, more than one way to get her done!!
Again, very nice work…just keep her away from the Jagdstaffel.😀
Cash

" ...just keep her away from the Jagdstaffel."

And my Type 1A U-Boat and DKM Graf Spee Cash😁
😎

Graf Spee would be a challenge, but AS will easily out run a Duck. 😉😉

WOWZA!
Beautiful and nearly done
Just a few details to go, deck superstructure, rigging etc. You’re making a great job of it. Take your time make the rest as nice as the hull.
👍👍👍

Many thanks one and all for the kind words and encouragement! I will say that anything painted in dark colors, especially black, is incredibly unforgiving! And I learned that at a very young age working for my Grandfather's painting company.

Aside from dark colors over large surfaces, bosun chairs, and wooden ladders over 40 feet tall are also an issue for me to this very day!

😂😂😂

And yes ToraD, the prop/stuffing box and overall layout for possible leaks is freaking me out despite the fiberglass and multiple resin coats I'll do a tub test soon and report back on that. Shaft collars will be the order of the day.
Fingers definitely...🤞🤞🤞

Hi Jumpugly, I just saw the photo of message 79.
I really like the choice of colors and how you painted.
Excellent you know how to paint very well.

After a 24 hour running knife fight (much like a visit to one of my sister-in-law's houses) I was able to retro fit my bench tested salvage yard equipment into the hull. It may not be pretty, but it works.

The rudder arm set up was brutal and light-years away from the original plans from the 1950's. I even tried a long flex shaft for starters as I had one laying around, but that was a total stroll into an abyss of colorful language. Then I had to route out the giant balsa block stern in order to get the rudder arm travel sorted. I wish I was better with the mechanicals, but I've learned not to get too crazy and chill out. In essence used as much usable space as possible and not cram every bit of electronics into the same tub.

Poop deck and main deck will be applied and painted and then it's off to the above deck stuff. A large styrene purchase is in the offing.

As Tom Waits said, "I'd rather have the bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy."

😉

"Colorful Language"? I don't believe it...
Looks good jump. That balsa block is plenty strong enough, even with the small dent you put into it. I might be tempted to resin coat it and as much of the inside as possible. Flexi cables don't seem to work very well for rudders especially unless they are paired up to push/pull. Rods are great.
I have tried, notice "tried", to make everything that goes into the hull serviceable. Sooner of later, it will need to be. Hidden hatches work great for accessing things like rudder posts, ect and with magnets they are easy to open and close.
Looking Good!😀😀😀

Hiya' TD! Yessir, resin bath will happen on what I routed , and you are 100% right on the Flexi-cable. Not even sure why I tried in the first place!
😂

I will def seriously consider the magnet suggestion for the poop and rear main deck where all the mechanicals are. Sealing up the poop deck over the rudder makes me nervous for sure!
👍

Problem solved. Looks good. Next problem.
👍👍👍

Did U ever 'push' a 'pull' door? & or Did U ever 'pull' a 'push' door? No! No! The 'other'! push & or pull! With 200 pages of 'Bad Dad 'J'okes, (& counting), &, as a Doctor has a practice, a Dentist has a practice, I'm a 'practising' comedian. Obvious need more practice! 'B J'.🤔 If U don't laugh!, U may well cry? BUT!, 'LEST WE FORGET,' How very lucky we mostly have it. 👍

It's not a problem if U can solve it! It's a 'challenge' & or a 'solve lution'? Waiting to be found. Challenging, eh! Easy for me to say, yeah!, that's why I'm saying it. I don't have the 'solve lution'. 🤔 A charity offers 'free' language courses. I know 'enough 'f? ing language', I just? need to learn to 'Bloody Calm Down! From 'frequent, fussy & or fiddly model building?🤔 If it 'looks too good to be true'! It probably IS!, 'A woman'! (& or many of the 'desirable, delightful, curvious, amazingly talented MODELS, U guys build, sail, motor & or display! 'B J'. 👍

The shop's looking pretty dirty. I opted for the primer grey decks. I know it's boring, but pretty much on point. Waiting for the magnets to arrive, but as mentioned moving onto the details.
More to follow.
And I stand corrected on my scale calculations as I became confused, but what else is new? Every day it's something new to confuse me.
🙄
459' real length at 50" kit length is 1:110 scale.

Do you add a coaming around the inside edges of the various openings? The coaming helps to keep water out, they align the structure and they don’t distract from the finished model as all the superstructures just slip over the coamings.

Just asking?

Ron

Good morning Ron!
I will report back on the coamings. But, I would hope that would be a part of the process and makes total sense to me. The instruction book, which is quite long, seems to be divided into three sections: hull, electronics, and topside systems.
I am still working on saving as much wood as I can in the dye cut boards. No small task with these old Sterling kits.
😉

Yes, Jumpy I was going to bring everyone's attention to it.🤣🤣 The shop looks a little dirty. That is the way that happens, the more the boat gets built the dirtier the shop becomes it is a sign of progress, and genius at work😜

And a huge shout out to St. Lukes in Basildon, Essex. Who had the extremely rare white metal fittings box that was meant for this kit in their thrift store. A very lucky find as this kit's unusually low price was a reflection of the missing proper fittings box! A discovery that my wife Mary would not have known about and I only just discovered being wrapped up in the hull construction!

I figured I'd have to go the 3D print route, but luck would intervene.

Hallelujah!!!

Hi Jumpugly, I like this ship model more and more. You are working great, I admire you.
I hope to send you the message I promised as soon as possible. I am working on it in my spare time, (it is not enough for me to write what I remember, a minimum of verification is necessary to avoid writing and spreading inaccuracies).

Hi Jumpugly, I finally finished what I promised in my message number 68 of this topic. Sorry for the delay.

The manufacturers' instructions are very useful but you have to know how to interpret them. I hope to do you a favor by inserting some indications.
If errors are reported to me (including translation errors), after a careful examination, I will be able to re-edit the message with the appropriate corrections.
In this way, a small guide could be useful to everyone even after some time. In fact, I have noticed that many interesting and informative discussions have been lost in the forum or in build blogs where it is very difficult to search for old topics.
I'll give you an example:
Some time ago Roy attached a very useful link (in message no. 45 of this topic) in which the manufacturer "MabuchiMotors" inserted a lot of detailed and well-explained information on electric motors.
The problem is that if I wanted to look for it in a few weeks, months or years it will be increasingly difficult. In fact, if I wanted to look for it, I would certainly remember that it concerns electric motors. However, by entering the word “motor” (or similar) in the search field I would not find it at all (because the search is only related to the title of the topics and not to the internal contents); certainly after some time I would not remember that this important message is in the topic entitled “American Scout C-2 Freighter”.
Therefore the message will fall into oblivion.

For this reason I wrote everything on the page “How to articles” with a specific title that facilitates the text search: “Permanent magnet brushed electric motors. Main features. Basic elements of distinction. How to evalu...”

below is the link:

https://model-boats.com/wiki/147457

Alessandro!
Thank you so much for this. I appreciate the effort you put into this research and it is a big help to understanding the mechanics of the motors we use.
I will try to apply as much as I can moving forward.
👍😊

I am very happy that it is useful to you. Rereading it I made further corrections (it is now the fifth revision). The videos (some also in English) help you understand the text. If there are any unclear parts, please tell me.

Alessandro,
That is a wonderful tutorial. Thank you for posting it AND for updating it.😉😉

Thank you very much Toradog for your appreciation and your kind words.
I'm immensely pleased that you liked it.

Gracie Mille Mia Amico! Bellisimo!
So well organized & explained that even a Mechanical Engineer,like me, who has long forgotten the teachings in his Electrical Engineering classes can understand.👍👍👍👍

Hi Alessandro and all. a nice tutorial. I take the point also made about having reference material under one heading for future reference. If anyone should want to move any of my offerings they are welcome.

I did learn years ago with an unknown motor that assuming you have an amp meter with a high end reading, then put your selected voltage to the terminals and measure the stall current of the motor.

This should be done for the shortest time to get a reading. Too long and it can affect the permanent magnet. Take 20% of this reading and it will give a guide to the operating and most efficient current to operate the motor under load.

regards
Roy

Thank you for great explanation of DC motors.

Hi Roy, thanks for the appreciation.
Your posts always contain useful content and a lot of information. It's a shame that they get lost over time.
I often think: "this topic was covered by Tizio and this other Caio" but I can't always find them and when I do, it's with great difficulty.
With all your ideas, suggestions, tricks and memories of past experiences (if collected) we could make a nice little manual, very useful.
If you don't mind, I'll include your method (which seems like a really good suggestion) in my text.
Of course, I'll write that it's your idea.

Hi CommodoreH, I'm very glad you enjoyed the content of the text.
Your opinion always means a lot to me; thank you very much.

Hi Chum444, thank you for the kind words you said.
I am very happy that the text I wrote is appreciated.
If the appreciation comes from a qualified person like an engineer I am doubly satisfied.
I also did the little experiment of the coil that rotates in the magnetic field (in fact it is quite easy to reproduce) when I wanted to explain this topic to my son years ago.
The practical demonstrations and animations (thanks to dedicated software) make understanding much easier.
Perhaps my merit (if I can have one) is to identify with those who have very little knowledge of electronics and look for an explanation (among the many existing ones) that is as easy as possible.
Certainly wanting to delve deeper into the Lorentz force with mathematical demonstrations and physics lessons requires a different degree of learning and a higher level of knowledge.
However, for our purposes I do not think it is at all necessary.

Jumpugly excuse me because this digression on engines is diverting attention from your topic which is the construction of your beautiful naval model. It was not my intention.
Now, to overcome this problem, I will move the whole topic to a new one.
In this way, whoever wants, can write comments, corrections, additions on that topic without bothering this one.

No worries at all Alessandro. I consider everything a free-for-all and always a place to share and learn. I learn something new everyday and that’s what makes this site great.
😊👍

Thanks Jumpugly you are very friendly.

A weekend of struggles, but I made some headway. All electronics working well was a huge relief. The trial-fitting of the three crane masts is ok for now or until I decide to scrap them. I was quite happy with reproducing the 1930's style canvas hatch covers with #18 embroidery string, finishing resin, and very fine fiberglass overlays. The die cutting is decent as evidenced in the second picture, but styrene sheets are on order to replace these hundred or so mini bits! However, I did preserve the superstructure decks and primed and painted them.
Onwards!
😉

Hi Jump, a few years back I used tiny aileron hinges about a cm. long as the base of a crane mast. The hinge sat in a close fitting tube which enabled the crane to revolve and angle up and down. They are about 2mm. diameter and very strong.

Your boat /ship is coming along very nicely.
Roy

Hi Roy! Believe it or not I still have a bunch of old Dubro and Williams Brothers hinges laying about from the old days…a capital idea! Let me see what I can do with the myriad of crane booms that will have to get sorted.
👍

Plastic, plastic, plastic:
I cut about 45 pieces of plastic to match the die cut balsa bits in order to rebuild the superstructure. A pain in the ass, but with more shaping, trimming, hole filling, and detail sanding I think I will be able to get this work sorted enough to make it look nice.

The biggest problem was adapting the plans that were originally set up for 1/8th balsa and retro fitting it with 1mm styrene. I ran from the 60 year balsa because it was hairy (excessive grain lifting), dry, and splitting and would have required more priming and sanding than I wanted to deal with right now.

I was skeptical that I would be able to make this work, but for getting the basic structure laid down I think it's ok and I can save this pass. I'll then tweak it to hopefully satisfy myself. I don't know...maybe. We'll see.

🤞😉

You doing a beautiful job. Keep up the good work.
Good decision not to use the dried up balsa wood. That stuff wasn't even too good when it was new. It is difficult to get a good paint finish on balsa wood.
I am not good at all with plastic and prefer to use plywood.

The railings contribute greatly to the overall appearance of a model. I would look a HO trains and see what you can get.

😋

Thank you for your kind words Commodore!
I am rifling through my HO train stash for a couple of packages of old steps and ladders. We think alike!
The HO railing search is underway as I type this.

The balsa bits I've actually used have to be primed and sanded twice to make them even a little bit useful! The styrene save me despite the work involved.
😉

Trial fitting the superstructure. Starting to look like a real ship!
👍😉

More and more beautiful!
Jumpugly=the styrene wizard. It's a skill I would like to have too.

She is coming along really nicely. Styrene was a good choice for the super. I really like what you did with the deck hatches. 😛😛

Thank you TD!
What I didn't know is that 1930's C-2 freighters had canvas stretched hatches over oak frames that folded up like closet accordion doors. A cost and weight saving idea that worked.
A little weathering when the time comes and hopefully they'll look a bit more scale down the road.
😉👍

impressive.👍👍👍

Hi I cover my hatches with nylon stocking stretched in place. I then thin some varnish down and this holdes the nylon in place. Paint as you want and then stick on thin darkened wood hatch coverings.
Best ask nicely for the discarded nylons!

(joke) Ever since my wife found some lady's panties in the glove compartment I have had to wear nylon underwear!

You can just make out the 2 hatch covers.

regards
Roy

ROY!
I am sorry for the radio silence.
Some stoned young lady drove her car over an embankment and it landed on the hood of my wife's RAV4. Thankfully my wife had parked the car and was not in it. But, our car is a total loss and I have spent the last three days sorting the claim, rental, and a new (used) car search. Fortunately, all have been settled and...

I promise to tread lightly on the lingerie requests! 😉
But honestly, the hatch work you did is spot on, I love it.
What a beautiful build! Thanks for sharing it with me.

Roycv,
Did you use fishnet stockings for your hatches, and were they knee highs or the other?
I suppose that you could have used garters to keep the stocking on your hatches...😁😁😁😁
Oh, this is going no where....

OK T.G. don't start me off with fishnet stockings!!! Plain tights donated by my wife.

But the memories linger, suspenders.......
Off to sea for a few days so that will b****r up my Q o D stats.
Roy

🤑😁🤑😁🤑😁

Cars for me have to be big enough for a rigged yacht, comfortable and light on the petrol.
Sorry to here of the loss of your Rav 4 nice car, I had a Honda CRV for 16 years until it crumbled underneath, nice and comfy.
Thanks for the kind words for the cargo boat, it is very simple just looks nice on the water.
Roy

Railings ordered and trial fitting continues…still miles away, especially with booms, winches, and rigging.

Hi Jumpugly, damn I'm sorry your car is damaged but I'm glad no one is hurt.
Congratulations on the progress, accuracy and speed.

Sorry to hear about the car, Get her a nice new one. Those thing happen all the time, no one was hurt.
Did you say you have HO trains? So do I.

Commodore all good on our end. Just hate to loose a great 2017 Toyota RAV4, 209,000 miles and perfectly maintained. But, we found another with 50k miles.

I love HO scale trains, but no longer run a track. But really enjoy building dioramas in that scale. But, I’m really liking your layout!!!! Wow!!! You may have motivated me to change my hobby tactics!

Mechanicals...about as neat as I can do them. The rear and poop decks that cover all of this are held in place with cabinet magnets.
Yet, I had to supplement the poop deck with two strong 1/4" rare earth magnets in addition to the cabinet ones. But then I had a panic attack...will these small magnets interfere with my receiver and/or transmitter, or am I overreacting?
Opinions appreciated.
🤔🤔🤔

Jump,
God\od question. No I do not believe that you are over reacting, just thinking ahead. I have not heard of magnets, even rare earth ones, cause radio issues. They are used frequently in airplanes and I have never heard of an issue there.
That said, I would not mount a receiver using REM's. I prefer Velcro. I think you will be fine.
My sub is beginning to drool!😁😁😁

I agree with Toradog.
However, if you think that the magnetic field always has consequences on electric charges, inductances and ferromagnetic materials, you also have to consider whether these effects are so mild as to be totally irrelevant.
At a certain distance the magnetic field of a permanent magnet is practically zero.
Let's also consider that your magnets are not moving.
However, when we can't think of anything we can always do some tests before fixing everything.
Jumpugly, see if your radio receives all the commands without problems. I think so but trying doesn't cost anything.

Ah Jumpugly, I forgot. I like your electrical setup so tidy and clean.

Gentlemen! Thank you!
More testing will occur from variable distances and I will report back on this. The tub test for ballast adjustment will be the next major test for me. Hopefully the hurdles will not be too tall.
😉

Hi Jump,

internals look pretty tidy to me, if you want to see the opposite, check out some of the spaghetti in some of my models😊 Re magnets, I've found they are ok if you can keep them away from the RX a reasonable distance, just to be sure, and use the minimum size you can manage. I have a number of 6-8mm magnets on some models (including planes for hatches), and they haven't been a problem, even as close as 100mm to the RX, and I tend to fly miles away from myself for some reason. Ship's looking great so far. 👍

JB

Jump, yer a freaking artist. She’s looking very nice. You did a good job below decks too!! You’ll have fun with this one.
Cash

Hi Jump I found this picture of an individual crane on its King post. Articulates at the base using tiny aileron hinges in a tube. With various blocks and hook, I think the uprights were old telescopic aerial pieces, abraded and sprayed. It is about 4 inches high.
regards
Roy

Roy!!! This is a huge help as the instructions are not as intense as I'd like them to be. I have already gotten a bag of DuBro micro hinges that will fit the bill; at your suggestion I might add! Many thanks!
👍😊

Jump,
You may enjoy looking here: C-2's start around AKA 89 or so. Many pages have close-up images that may help you with your rigging. Just ignore all the boring grey paint.😊

Sorry, try this:
https://www.navsource.org/archives/10/02/02idx.htm
😁😁😁

Love the Navsource stuff. Thanks TD!

When I was a kid we lived in Hawaii for three years while my dad was in Vietnam. When he was in between tours we’d go hang around Pearl Harbor. The Matson Line, that operated out of Honolulu, owned a C-2 (built as the USS Sea Pegasus) they first named her the "Hawaiian Planter" and then Matson renamed her again as the“Pacific Trader” before conversion to a container ship. I am going to name my C-2 that.

In a side note: I also saw our first SSBN the George Washington motor in. Scared the shit out of me. It was a huge Black Sea monster looking thing.

But, my Matson fascination was more borne out of the fact that after my father’s second tour he was discharged and we took the Matson Lurine Ocean Liner back to the mainland.

Pix below.

😉

And we're off. Railings and details...oh brother, gonna take some time. And heavy box of about 150 white metal parts arrived from St Lukes Hospice Thrift Store in Essex. The rest of this heavy winter will be spent sorting all of these bits. That's if my eyes and arthritic fingers can make it happen.
🤞😉

Hi Jump make sure she will sail upright! The small freighter in my previous post was originally a Glynn Guest model of Noggsund at 24 inches loa.
I ignored building with balsa and used a lot of available obechi / bass wood I had.
The result was top heavy and would only float on one corner or the other. I went through the options and eventually decided to saw her in 2 and extend the hull length by one third, which looked about right.

This gave me an increased displacement and I cemented a sheet of lead in to the base and she now floats upright.
The sailing version is from Internet, the other is my sawn up one.

Roy

Amen Roy! It's a constant source of terror at this point.

Tub tests next week, but a shaped piece of sheet steel or lengths of bar stock on the flat bottom may be what saves me, not far off from your cure (albeit minus some very brave cutting by you!!!) and Alessandro's suggestion too.
More gingerbread below.
😉

Hi Jump, I am enjoying this thread and you are building a great model. Have you already said how long your model is?
She looks a good deal longer than my offering.

One of the things I like to watch is the slow running propeller as she goes along. Brushed motor and a 4 bladed 45mm dia. brass prop. Current is very low and she runs for ages on just 4.8 volts 2Ahr sub-C cells.
These were recovered cells from other duff battery packs.
I have recently bought a spot welder for doing a better job of making fresh battery packs. It runs on 2 LiPo batteries but yet to be tested but recommended by an electronics professional.
Regards
Roy

Jump,
Lead flashing works really well too. If I remember correctly, I fill the keel void with lead shot. That worked well too, although it may have been Missouri that i did that way.
I remember the Matson Line. Classics!
I had a GW model too, for Germany, I could not get her to work, but others did.
You are taking me back....😊😊😊😊

Roy, she’s a shade over 50 inches long (127cm). It’s been like building a surfboard; although fun all the same.
I am going to run a 35t motor with 7.2 nicad 6 cell. I suspect she’ll be faster than what I need , but considering the immense amount of ballast I’ll need (anywhere from 6 to 9 pounds?!) am hoping for a decent trade off in order to cruise.

TD, I missed my chance to load the keel void with lead shot. Although I could feed it through the bottom. I want to avoid that as the bottom to the water line is fiber glassed. So, a properly shaped piece of sheet metal attached to the flat bottom may be the direction I go…or maybe a lead flashing tape. Not sure yet, but the float test in the tub should answer some concerns. BTW the Missouri is still a dream kit for me.

Until this stuff is sorted all deck work from now on will have to be put on hold or at least not secured in place. Fortunately, non of it is secured. Whew!

Onwards! 😉

Hi Jumpugly, you're right to do all the tests in the water before fixing the superstructures.
You're doing a great job but I really don't envy you now.
Placing many small parts is a very repetitive and patient job. These are my least favorite jobs in modeling.

Toradog, thanks for the link.

Slow Progress, but sweating the details...for now. Hating white metal, but DeStefan 3D will make me 16 ape winches in 1:100 scale. Bless him!
Tub test tomorrow, sans superstructure and boom works of course.
Shaking in my boots either way.
🤞😉

Fantastic!

Make sure you have done the necessary weights training to be able to get her to the water!!😁😁

Plus Xanax and a healthy amount of antacids!!!😂😂😂😂😂

Jumpugly a good day
I have done power lifting to put the Harro koebke in the water.
At the moment i look like mister universe………i hope my model too😂😂

Lucky duck you have a cristal ball?!?!
After lifting my model i feel like Popeye without eating spinaze

You guys... It is easy to get the boat into the water... just drop it. Getting it back out is the real trick.
Jump, once you have succeeded, you can help me with Juneau... all 145pounds
😀😁😀😁
I'll supply the Xanax......

Toradog and Jumpugly you are building some magnificent beasts.
In the club of extra models I would also include JockScott with his tanker.
Well done all three.

With the size and weight of some of these models, they are going to be towed to the water on a standard boat road trailer, and then winched down into the water, then winching back out. Is anyone on to build the biggest and heaviest model? Not me, with a knackered back who struggles to lift my 20lb models.😁😁😁😁

Well Gentlemen, I could not stand to wait and got brave enough to get the tub test done just now ahead of some heavy weather coming in today and tomorrow.

The boat as built comes in at 6.5 pounds (3kg) with only 3 pounds (1.36kg) of ballast contributing to that figure.
Thankfully, she floats nice and steady bow-to-stern. And evenly port and starboard as well. However, she floats way too high and no where near the waterline. Visions of capsizing raced through my head, as I broke into a sweat.

Now the fun begins...

So I slowly added exactly 3 pounds of test ballast in the form of multiple cans of unopened soda. That got me within one inch of the waterline all around. To my surprise, it took almost exactly another 2.5 pounds (of whatever soup cans I could find in the pantry) to get just below the water line and floating with a scale attitude. And yes, she looked like a container ship for Campbell's Soup and Coca Cola. LOL!

That would bring her up to about 12 pounds total, but I'm still not sure. So back to the shop to add the additional 5.5 pounds of correct (non-pantry supplies) of ballast and then back to the tank for some more tweaking.

Build blogs on this kit have ballast estimates running as high as 11 pounds of ballast so my initial 8.5 pounds isn't too far off the mark...I think.

Now for that drink...😉🤞

I am sure with your ingenuity the issue of getting your model from point A to point B and out again will be resolved efficiently. Using a engine block lift could be considered by using a counter-balance arm or crank to lift it up and lower it into the cradle or water.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/STARK-USA-500-LB-Pickup-Truck-Hydraulic-PWC-Dock-JIB-Engine-Hoist-Crane-Hitch-Mount-Lift-KIT56075/321051808

Ron! Made my day with that one! But, may not be too far off the mark! 🤣🤣🤣

Arrrhg Me Maties
11 lbs doesn't even come close to weighing that of a small keg of Rum! You be gettin slack and weak in these days of indulgence....🤣🤣🤣🤣

Amen TD!!!!!!! 😆😆😆😆🤣🤣🤣

Ciao Jumpugly.
It is very good that you have so much margin to be able to add weight.
Now think about all those electronic devices that you could put and that you would like to add.
But above all, take advantage of your spaces and the availability of the buoyancy to add all the batteries you want. You could get a huge autonomy.

Now that you have completed the weight test you can eat the soup.

My choice for weights is to visit then local tire shop and pick up all the discarded wheel balance weights. They can be cut up and placed in plastic bags. The same method works as source for weights I sometimes need during construction to hold parts in place temporarily.

Great idea CommodoreH!

Good Morning!
I thought long and hard about ballast and tire weights were at the top of my list, but I opted to go for 1" stone blocks from 1' bathroom tile squares. Each square weighs 4 pounds.

The clincher for me was the nylon netting holding the blocks together (within the square) so I could cut strips (or just single blocks) to fit to my needs and epoxy them down on the lower deck and (where needed) on top of each other. I was also able to distribute them evenly throughout the hull.
If you look closely, you can see a sample of the layout I went with and an unused square from the Home Depot (second photo). Netting on the back is in the third photo.

So...she's gained weight and is up to 11 pounds total (8.5 pounds of it is this stone ballast). I hope to get her back in the tub for round 2 in the next few days.
👍😊

Good choice, I will keep it in mind next time I need ballast.
Those tiles may not look the best on a bathroom floor but make excellent ballast.
😎

Starting to move on the little stuff for a while. The second tub test is upcoming, followed by rigging, I think, deck details (including deck edge repairs) and then a mountain of weathering. In other words, a lot to do. 😉

I like your ballast material solution. Ingenious.👍👍

Thanks Chum! My old floor tile days came in handy. When I was a kid I did the high ladder work for my Grandfather’s painting company so I was around all kinds of tradesmen. I remember some types of stone backsplash tiles being incredibly dense despite there small size.
They worked well in this long hull.
😉

Jump…JUMP! Dang it man that Scout’s looking good! I think you’re going to be pleased with her as well you should. You’ve done an exemplary job on her.
I feel your pain on ballast. The job you did with the tiles is ingenious, btw. I use either weight from leg weights, they’re either metal ingots or small 1 lb sand bags, small enough for a medium-up sized boat. The other is bb’s in bottles…pill, vape, etc. I make ballast bombs and then secure them when I’m happy with the way the boats sitting..oh, use Crosman, not Daisy. Cheaper😀
Again, the Scouts is great!! You got skills hoss..looking forward to her maiden.
Cash

Thank you for your kind words Cash!

In hindsight I’ve made some mistakes with this old gal, but once I am done I will go back and make some corrections. And those corrections will be only cosmetic. I learned a few important lessons with this kit; especially the less than perfect matching of styrene and ancient balsa.

Also, your ballast notes are a huge help, and believe it or not, I have a pint of Crossman bb’s in my shop and an ancient Crossman 760! lol!
I will use them as needed for some final tweaking should the tiles not easily fit in some of the smaller hidden areas of the hull.
👍😊

Hi Jp,
In the immortal words of my first Boss, ca 1970-
"If you've never made a mistake you've never made f*** all!"
Frank Dudley, an East Londoner Cockney I'll never forget. RIP Frank

😎

Amen to that RN!!!
👍😁

REALLY successful modeling depends a lot on how well you can disguise the mistakes it’s too late to correct. Important to remember since we all make those mistakes.😀😀

What he said👍😀

😎

Only mistakes make a model unique
I think your ship is great.

You guys are the best!!!
🙂

We do what we can Jp
As do you - very well👍

Cheers, Doug😎

And a big shout out to ROY for the hinge idea for the booms. I used Dubro micro hinges and they worked just GREAT! Notice the base of the two booms on the first deck just forward of the superstructure. Rigging to follow soon! Still trial fitting just about everything so everything looks a bit loose. Cosmetic repairs still to come as well.
😉

Thank you Roy!!!
👍😊

Hello Gang, hit a slow patch in the details, especially with cleaning up the superstructure.
But, I wanted to share a 1959 ape winch made of white metal and a 2025 3D printed ape winch, both in 1:100 scale. I figured if I am going to go as scale as I possibly can, the decision was pretty easy. Besides I needed 16 of them!
😉

P.S. yes, I broke down and picked up Speedline Bluebird K-7 in the background. I am going to "scale" it out for grins. It will keep me motivated to go nuts and spend mountains of $$ for a large 1/8th scale build someday.
😂🤣

Hi Jumpugly, your model is going great. I was intrigued by a detail.
The lifeboat cover is secured with a rope that passes under the hull, with a design similar to mine.
This gives me further confirmation, thanks.

I think you inspired me with the lifeboats Alessandro! But, he are my 60 year old lifeboat instruction page and a detail on my weathered lifeboats. I still have to weather the rest of my ship to match!
😂😂😂

Hey Gang!
Well, my (last?) tub and water test went very well today; finally! The monster floated well fore and aft, with a really nice center of gravity, and self righted better than I expected. So, I'm happy with the balance, and even happier with NO LEAKS!

However, at 11 pounds she rides a bit high with the prop half out of the water, which does not seem right to me. See picture below. You'll notice the lower line is 11 pounds.
I added 3 pounds of weight throughout the hull and got her down to the upper line, which is 14 pounds! But the prop is just at the surface. Seems better, but not absolutely scale?

This begs the question, am I driving myself nuts about this? I've never quite built a ship quite this "scale" large before and am curious if you all think I'm taking this a bit too seriously as I'm not sure if scale running at 1:100 is even truly possible, other than speed.
Thoughts appreciated.
😉

I sent a copy of your post along with the picture to a Chief Engineer on a Great Lakes freighter to get his opinion. He may say the prop/screw/wheel needs to be submerged. We will see.

Many thanks Ron!!!! This is so cool!😊

I suspect that fully laden a 459 foot long cargo ship would ride closer to the water line? Well see.

Got a lengthy reply and Shaun is a model builder too!

Yeah, people don't realize how much ballast a large ship model requires. A vessel with any part of the propeller out of the water is inefficient. If his model was loaded with cargo, the white boot top between the red and black would be the waterline. Sometimes, you just get what you get when you are building a model, though.

Also, a ship with no cargo in ballast condition is usually trimmed aft to get the propeller down. The ship wouldn't be 'flat' in that condition, but down by the stern. We just came up the St. Lawrence River with extra ballast aft so that the propeller would be deep enough that the ice we went through didn't go through it.

This should help

Hi Jumpugly, I think you are right to be accurate.
My opinion is that in merchant ships there is a big difference between full load and empty. This difference is remarkable and astonishing in oil tankers.
If I were you I would look for a perfect alignment keeping the propeller completely submerged.
However, you can show a red part of the hull but not too much, but the ideal is to reach the white line.
I envy your problem, usually we have the opposite problem.

I also thank Ron for researching the information and sharing it with us.

Ronald! This is a huge help! I will go heavy and get in one more trip to the tub to do some final tweaking so I can get this gal done!

Please thank your friend for me and a heartfelt thanks to you for your efforts!
👍😊

I’m in full agreement with you too Alessandro. Thank you for joining in this chat. I figure if I am going all out for scale I might as well do my best to get it right!
😉

Hello Jumpugly
Alessandro and Ronald are absolutely right.
I had the same problem with my Zwarte Zee. The screw was only 0.5 cm out of the water. Apart from the appearance, this is not a problem with the feed. But it is with reverse thrust.
Then the propeller sucks in air and water is sprayed up. And the driving and steering characteristics are no longer given.

Wolle! Thanks for this information. I will definitely keep that mind. It's certainly motivation to get my hull just right!
👍

Hi Jump,
Have you looked at Navsource.org? Lot's of pictures of very similar ships. The Scout was a C2-S-AJ5, and a series of C2-S-AJ3, Most if not all were AKA's attack transports. Look on the Amphibious page for AKA and then around AKA 64 +_. This one example I found. Notice the difference between her loaded and light waterlines.
Also here is a MARAD web page concerning Scout.
https://www.maritime.dot.gov/multimedia/ss-american-scout
😊

Hey TD! Yes sir I did, a wonderful resource for sure. And thanks for posting this pic of an AJ5 riding high. It motivates me to find a good mid- point on my final draft adjustments.
👍

Well… after a long delay…
In the water she went and as you can all see I went over the top with the ballast in the stern. Dammit!

I will remove some of my ballast in the rear and add some upfront and sneak her back up to my boss’s pool sometime in the near future.

The good news is that she doesn’t leak and she’s nicely upright. But, I don’t dare put her in the Lake until I’ve got everything sorted out. Will not add the cranes and rigging until she’s just about perfect afloat.

Fortunately my new digital scale is being delivered today. 😂😂😂

Woops - but still looks good - with the bow that high looks as though she is ready to start planing!!!!!!

Yes Jumpugly, on the trim it is exactly as you say, it is evident.
Logically it is an easily resolvable issue.
But in the water it is really beautiful, it has a fantastic effect.

Hey Jumpugly,
The Captain should throw the First Mate overboard for loading her like that!🤣
Before you remove too much from her stern, try adding some ballast forward. That in and of itself will raise the stern.
She is looking really nice ( for a target😁)

Aha JumpUgly!
What do I see at the stern? Is that a lifeline?

Bb Michel-C.

>> Rope of shame? I see it differently! It's only in the test phase!
But I like the name! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

You guys are the BEST!
And yes Michel, it is the lifeline, just in case she suddenly went to meet Davy Jones. At the Lake we call it the "rope of shame!"

🤣🤣🤣🤣

Well done Mike, you are a great observer, you noticed the rope at the stern.
Jumpugly you did well, you can never be too careful.
Mike, are you just a great observer or have you used that rope in the past? ahahahahahah

Hey Alessandro,
Shall I be honest? Then a great yes!
I've already done this at our pond . . . and it is really deep in places.
“Rope of shame” is simply an awesome name!
I will officially announce this in our club! 🤣🤣🤣
Your Michel-C.

It may be a "shame" but it seems like a great idea to me, ahahahahahahah.

Funny you should show the Scout. I built one and my uncle who was with me in the Navy built one too. Mine was burned in a house fire. My uncle passed day after 96 birthday may Aunt wants me to take his home when we visit next. I set mine for RC but never got to float it. I don’t think he motorized it. I hope he didn’t glue the access. He taught me to build models when I was 10. One summer I lived at my grandmas n stayed in his old room. He had converted a closet into a workshop. I tried building some kits he left. Didn’t do it well. Those kits would be worth big bucks n his O&R engines too. I was with him at the end. He was breathing on his own n looked like he was ok. Sleeping! He was my inspiration in the hobby, getting me in the Navy ( he was my boss on the ship, I built a model of it for him). He went up ranks in reserves to CWO. He was in middle of building a new $800 old full rig sailing ship. Instructions on a CD not paper threw him. I saw a single mast that took him a month with all the rigging n sails. His gran son will try to finish that ship. Anyway it was funny I was thinking of the Scout n there it was today on this site thanks to all of you who are keeping the hobby alive! My uncle and I a few months ago n our ship. He navigated and I steered it. Fixed the radar n sonar too

I have no doubt that the first mate rigged that line...😂

H, sorry to read about your Uncle, but truly appreciate the sentiment and his inspiration to you. Thank you for sharing.
I am sure your uncle would be as gung-ho as we will be for you to sort his old Scout and get her on the water and hopefully the hatches are not battened down too much. Take pictures!

When I got my Scout home I moved a pound of ballast forward from aft.
I will put her on the water again next week and will bring extra ballast to trim her up proper.
Time will tell. 😉👍

What battery did you use?

Morning H.
I just run a basic 35T brushed motor with a 6 cell Nicad. In this case I pirated most of my electronics from a busted up Kyosho Viper that I stumbled upon; just didn't use the original Kyosho LeMans motor.

I will do the same with my Chris Craft Corvette kit, but will go Lipo with an EDF on my Bluebird K-7 kit. The Bluebird is a dream project that is (for the most part) 3D printed, although an EDF on water may be an exercise in terror. More on those later this year.

When I get the ballast sorted I will test run, before I finish up with the railings and rigging. The problem with the rigging is that the original white metal blocks are absolute crap. So I found an old Heller 1/100 scale Soleil Royal parts box and plan to use all those blocks instead. That's if my eyes hold out!

😂

Jump,
I "inherited" a bunch of BlueJacket metal blocks. They are all too small for my use( 1/48 scale) so if you would like them, you are welcome to them. Most fit 1/16th and 1/96th scale in various sizes. PM me your address and I'll send them out by snail wagon train.😊

Thanks so much TD. I will give the Heller ones a shot, if they fail me I will come hat in hand! I'm not shy. 😂
😉👍

On my Scout( it was lost in house fire from Lipos) I used stretchy black thread. Used for making bracelets. I had a metal pin hook at end. That way the antennas n such can unhook to take superstructure off. FYI Tnx all

Stretchy black thread is great, BUT, be aware that over a short period it will lose it's elasticity if left stretched. I would suggest being able to unhook/unload any such lines so that they rest in a relaxed condition.
Guess how I know...😊

I too learned that the hard way TD🤔
So the rigging and antennas (Antennae?😁) on my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast are unhook-able.

😎

TD,
Re "She is looking really nice ( for a target😁)"
I'm already 'tooling up' my Type 1A U-Boat😉😁

😎

Dammit! Nightmares abound! 😉

The stretchy black elastic also stretches if it gets wet.
Roy

"The stretchy black elastic also stretches if it gets wet."
Roy, You are talking about rigging line, yes?😂😂😂

I used some black round section cotton covered elastic about 1mm dia for the stanchion wire on a yacht. It was for a magazine and was the cover picture and the elastic was taught when we first started the photography session and floppy at the end.
My daughter was dating the company photographer (Rolls Royce engines) and he took the photos.
When the magazine was published I could see the floppy line. No one seemed to notice! I should have a photo somewhere.

I use non stretch line for models and where necessary run the line through a piece of beeswax to get rid of the tiny hairs sometimes protruding.

HI I have at last got my floppy elastic photo up.
Roy

Ok, another trial fitting before she goes back to the boss's pool for my last (I swear my last) ballast check. I've had to find another part of my shop to mount her against the plans to assist in placement of the scale details...rigging the booms is freaking me out and transporting this gal when the time arrives will be a beast!
Much left to do, but I've been sidetracked of late reopening the cabin.

Either way, I christen her "Pacific Trader" and thank her for keeping me busy during this awful Connecticut winter.
😉

Jump,
She is looking sweet!
Our Maine winter was messy as well. Our spring consists of rain, rain and more rain. But, on the bright side we have a great crop of Ticks this year.😁😁😁

Thank you TD!!!
And yes picked the ticks are going to be everywhere! Cleaned out a culvert above the cabin last weekend and picked one up on my pants already. So, it’s another year of body checks whenever I am clearing brush and loaded questions to the wife.

“Honey, you got a minute?!”
😉🤣🤣🤣

Beautiful job. A classic brought back to life.

Beautiful ship, actually stunning.
It is fantastic on static display but even more so in the water.
It deserves more than one photo though.

You guys make my day! Thank you for the kind words!!!
😊

Jump,
You are doing her proud. Are you going to install a smoke unit in her? That would look really nice. The small Harbor Models unit would fit in your superstructure without issues.
Now about those rust stains....😉

Hello Jump
Yes, a smoking unit wouldn't be bad.
You've really built a nice ship. I'm a little envious.😍😍😍👍👍👍

I have no experience with smoking units. But, think some research is in the offing! And there will be rust, tons of rust.
😉

"think some research is in the offing!"
That is what it is all about. Get cracking!
The units have gotten a bit better than the old Lionel units we use to use....😀

Ballast Success at last! I think. Here she is in my boss’s pool again. I feel as if now I can get back to the scale gingerbread bits.

No matter what, she’s not ever going to see a windy day at the lake. But, then again I will be cautious as “still waters run deep.”

I might be psyching myself out about Davy Jones! Pay no attention to the man inside the locker!

😂🤣

PS: For the architecturally curious. The house in the background is a famed Phillip Johnson "glass house." It's known historically as The Wiley House. It was built in 1952 and was his second glass house. I am the property manager and oversee restoration and construction etc. Best retirement job I could have ever asked for.
👍

Is the prop well below your visible “water” in the pool? The model is sitting nicely as an unloaded freighter.

Send me a PM regarding your work and the PJ glass house. He was one of many my students covered in our Technological Design class.

Hi Ron!
Yes, I am still a bit high. The top 3mm of the prop is above the water. When all is said and done and she's under power I may add another bit of weight. At least now I can equally balance fore and aft.
If I ever run up against this issue again I'm going to go bottom/keel heavy and not be too dependent higher up in the hull. You live and learn.
👍

Hi JP,
Re " I am still a bit high."
Harrumph Mr Vice Admiral😠Once too often to the Cap'n Morgan well?
We'll turn a blind eye this time🙈
and put it down to promotion celebrations!

BTW; ship looks good. Congrats👍
Cheers, FLEET😎

Thanks for the kind words Doug!
Myers and pineapple for me!
👍

Jump, Don't listen to that old codger. he may out rank you, but anyone who tips Capt. Morgan's rather than NewFoundland Screech does rank at all🤣🤣🤣
He is right on one point though, she looks really sweet!
Great job. Now comes the fun stuff. (That's what you need the Screech for).
Oh, yea, don't forget her Plimson Marks. Her prop tip may have actually broken water if she were light loaded. Remember those Liberty's that preceeded her😀

Hi Commodore TD,
Actually I've been to Newfoundland several times.
Contract negotiations with Park Air Engineering at St Johns airport.
Tried all 3 varieties of Screech. Very nice, but doesn't it actually come from Jamaica?
Very difficult to find here in Germany☹️
There's a similar dark rum here, Pott 40 or 50 proof made in Austria, which is fine for making my Cuba libres.
But my favourite is Bacardi Gold (Carta Oro).😋

Also; Commodore, I shall overlook your impertinence this time you young whipper snapper.
On the grounds that you were probably incapacitated due to having been 'screeched in'.
"Indeed I is, me ol' cock! And long may yer big jib draw!"😉
Hope the cod was fresh🙊😁
BTW "Her prop tip may have actually broken water if she were light loaded."
You're right. On visits to S Korea (Daewoo shipyard) I've often seen super tankers in ballast with nearly half the screw out of the water.
Down the hatch gents, FLEET😎
PS Pott with pineapple is good too JP👍

ARRGGG Doug,
Yep Screech is NOW made in Jamaica, but it did not use to be. Until around 1960-70 it was made in house. AND it was not 80 proof, just a tad more, Something like Sunset, made in St Vincent 180 proof. I think there is an entire story about how the name came about, something about a USN Admiral at the start of WW2.
Either way, Jump needs to learn his rums if he is going to skipper some tramp steamer...🤣🤣🤣🤣
Even if he does build a nice lookin' tramp.

I don't think this model needs any rust. I like my models to look shiny crisp and new. I model my ships as though they just came out of the shipyard.
A smoke machine might be a nice touch. It's easy to do, just buy one and hook it up.
I often ponder what operating features my boats should have I like a few lights, not lit up like a Christmas tree. It's easy to buy stuff like sound machines but do I need this thing to make lots of noise or is a quiet boat OK?
🤔

Commodore! Actually, I've developed quite an affection for this gal and I will go easy on the weathering. Maybe just a little that would signify one or two voyages.
😉

I will go high gloss beauty on the big Chris Craft and the Bluebird K-7. Yachts and Hydroplanes should always look pristine!
👍

I will seriously consider smoke, but will probs pass on the sounds and lights. Just starting to add the chocks and bits and things...just very uneasy about the rigging. Both my hands are slightly arthritic and super small blocks have caused me a bunch of aggravation. We'll see.
🤔

Good decision, a touch of weathering here and there is enough.

Putting on tiny details can be problematic. Nothing messes up a nice model like glue “ squeeze out” around small parts. I’ve seen it so many times. You put what you think is a small dab of glue, place the part and the glues squeezes out making a mess that impossible to correct. When possible I prefer to use double face tape. You need to get good tape. The good stuff is really thin and sticks “like crazy”. There are a lot of good products out there. My aged, elderly, old hands, are not as steady as they once were either. Neither are my eyes so sharp. Good lighting is critical. I often use forceps. Peel off one side of the tape stick to the part and trim carefully. You have only one chance to get this right. The first placement is strong if you move the part around it is not as good. If you feel you are not steady take the time to set up some blocks to steady yourself. You can practice placing the part before you peel the second side with tip of hobby knife. Don’t touch the sticky surface.

Hi Jump me too with the small blocks. I use a needle threader, a fine wire loop that goes through the block and opens out to take a fine rigging wire or thread back through the hole.
Works a treat.
Roy

Hi Commodore, when sticking anything to a smooth surface I give the surface a quick rub down with Methylated spirits, the mauve stuff in a bottle.
Roy

re post 223, I have at last got my Fairwind picture up-loaded. This picture got onto the magazine front cover without anyone noticing the floppy stanchion wire!
This was the review article for the kit, I had to give it back afterwards and just received money per page of the article.
However back then the magazine pictures were printed on glossy paper and looked good.
Todays magazine pictures look so dull, maybe it is cheaper and maybe we would not buy the magazines if printed nicely, due to cost.

Good old days are gradually going.
Roy

She’s a beauty Roy! Excellent!!!

And agree on the model magazine printing and mass produced printing in general. Maybe poor quality is the reason it’s going the way of the dodo. They just aren’t putting in the effort.

Just a quick note while she rests in the shop for the small stuff. The optics between my iphone, the pool water, and the bright sun have skewed my waterline in the previous photos. I can assure you all that I wasn't tipsy when I applied the tape!
🤣

I have used auto pin striping and even that can be tricky.
In relation to having photos printed in magazines, I have been lucky to sell quite a few to yachting magazines both in Australia and South America, mainly to do with the Etchell class. It is amazing to see the difference in quality between different productions. All about the almighty dollar.

Staying at a BnB along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence River we are seeing various vessels plying the waters. This morning were these two heading towards the mouth of the river.

Thought of your freighter, though not the same design .

These are AWESOME Ronald! I like that they are riding high!!!
Thanks so much for posting them.
😊👍

BTW: This one may end up on my "bucket list" someday...
https://www.dumasproducts.com/?product=great-lakes-freighter-kit-1264

Staying at a BnB along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence River we are seeing various vessels plying the waters. This morning were these two heading towards the mouth of the river.

Thought of your freighter, though not the same design .

More ships and golf and ships and just golf ⛳️

Jealous! I was a caddie for 11 years and as a result an obsessive player. Never got my handicap below 8, but the first time I broke 80 was one of the happiest days of my life.
Sadly drifted away from the game to chase skirts. But, never forgot my old looping days.
😉

Just before getting on the road…here’s my C-2 freighter “Pacific Trader” so far. Winches and more railings are next.
😉

Bot nad Jump👍Bot nad at all😍
Safe journey and don't forget the travel report and pics.
(We'll need 'em to check your expenses Admiral😁😂)
Bon voyage.
FLEET.😎
PS If my memory serves me; Pacific Trader was one of the 'baddie' ships in the Australian TV series 'Sea Patrol'.

It's almost finished but it's already beautiful.