Hi RodC,

A postal service is something that everyone wants/needs but would prefer not to pay for.

In the UK less and less people are posting letters. Part of the reason for this is because fewer people can actually be bothered to write with a pen/pencil (keyboards are preferred) but the cost of posting a letter has made it less attractive.

In comparison, the cost of posting a small package looks like much better value for money and our local “postie” reports carrying fewer letters every day - but many more padded envelopes and small packages that ever before.

Larger packages and boxes etc are delivered by van and not by the “postie” who still uses his legs to walk his delivery route.

Some suppliers (less and less) these days add unrealistic postal delivery costs to their products to make a little extra cash, but most take advantage of the very competitive delivery service that we have in the UK that has several couriers competing against each other, and this drives the prices down - or at least keeps them competitive.

Some suppliers add a standard delivery charge to everything they sell. This can work out OK if you are spending and buying a lot, but penalises those of us that just want to buy small lightweight items such as a few plastic propellers or an odd prop-shaft that anyone could take to the post office and post for less (much less sometimes).

Even more interesting is that anyone can arrange and pay (by mobile phone, iPad, computer etc) for their small package to be uplifted from their home at no extra cost!

Being aware of this can cause a little unhappiness when a supplier adds a fixed delivery charge to small items that anyone (that does not even have a business rate deal with any particular courier) can send for less.

Against that, we do have quite a good postal delivery service here in the UK, but (traditionally) we enjoy a good moan about things from time to time, so any perceived over-charge for being sent something by mail gives us a good opportunity to enjoy a good moan about it - and to share this discontent with anyone else who can be bothered to listen 🤣

Having had a bit of a moan, few of us will make the effort to escalate this to the next level and actually complain to the sender about adding unjustified costs to those small but essential little items we need …….but it doesn’t stop us either being fully aware of it - or being little “miffed” about it.

From what you say, maybe you could have even more of a (justified) moan about your postal service in Canada?

Bob.

I stocked up on silver steel precision rod and stainless tube so from now on I will be making my own prop shafts.

Zomma/Bob...just be thankful that you hav a functioning postal service (cost of postage here in Canada is moot right now)🤔

£55.75 for two basic prop-shafts (not ball raced or anything special) and a rudder.

Not very long ago that price for so little would not have been thought possible - but here we are!

…..and that is not actually too bad !

I have not bought any wood yet, but wood prices have also shot up, so I am not expecting any bargains there either !

Prices have gone up everywhere for everything, and our hobby only reflects that situation, but it doesn’t make it any easier.

Some of my Remora was made from scrap used plywood - but it hasn’t suffered from that in any way, and it runs really well, so maybe recycling and restoring old models could get more popular in the near future?

Bob.

Making some more more progress on the Sprite Super Duper. Working on the frames now - who thought it was a good idea to have 9 frames including the bow and transom! 🙄 😀

The number arose basically because I just added extra ones in between those existing whose position in some cases is determined by e.g. the cabin. I could reduce the number but it would only be by 1 or 2 so I'll leave as is for now so I can get the drawing finished. I can soon alter them later if required.

As I've standardised on a number of components, a couple of years ago I stocked up as I thought there was a possibility that supplies might be disrupted from China at sometime.

I bought enough motors and ESCs for all my existing builds that I hadn't already bought them for and estimated future builds (not that many planned after my Faireys) plus a few spares.

This was also partly prompted by being caught out and not being able to get my favourite alloy motor mount when the company ceased training. I also stocked up on Hitec receivers as manufacture of these stopped (tipped off by a neighbour who also uses Hitec). Fortunately managed to get enough from dealers who still had some and from Ebay.

Fortunately I've got most of the prop shafts I need as I had to buy those as I went along to incorporate in the construction. Good job given the prices now as mentioned.

Good job my wife doen't look in the cupboards in my workroom! 😮

Cost of most, if not all, hobby products has risen significantly. Weird thing is I was looking for another "dasmikro" sound unit (actually several) and the average price was about 4X as much as the same one I bought several years ago. These are cheap units and are massed produced where the price should be about that of a TV remote control. However I have seen them many times that in some places. The same unit price runs from $9(US) up to $60. Same photo, same info.
Lew

I have placed my order for both M5 Maxishaft prop shafts (along with a large size rudder) so the deed is done and they will be with me very soon.

The rudder can be cut to shape and size as required as it is probably too big for the Sprite Plus.

Bob.

I use the maintenance free Raboesch prop shafts in most of my builds but noticed the last time I bought any the price seemed to have suddenly increased. If I used one in the Sprite it would be at least twice the price so the Maxishaft price isn't too bad really and I will probably use one in my Sprite build.

As a pensioner, I suppose I notice the increasing cost of things a bit more than when I was at work and I was a little surprised at the cost of an 11” Maxishaft (8mm outer tube with 5mm inner shaft) to fit this boat.

With the oiler tube fitted, the cost is £21.25 which is probably not too bad, but £6.50 to post it to me makes it £27.75.

I also want to buy a 12” Maxishaft to fit into “Christine” the LesRo Sportsman and (being one inch longer that shaft will cost more, so I think I will make that one myself and see how I get on.

When I was still at school I used to make my own prop shafts for myself and my friends when I was able to use the lathe during the dinner-time break or after school, so it is hardly rocket science, but I would guess that the cost of brass tube for the outer and phosphor bronze for the bearings will be a lot more these days …..and then the 5mm steel for inner shaft still has to be purchased.

Inner shaft material choice is an interesting one too. Plain mild steel is easy to work and cut a thread on but will rust easily if it is not kept well lubricated and so is not the best choice especially if the boat is likely to be run in salt water.

Stainless steel is a fairly obvious alternative but there are several “grades” of stainless steel and one of the so called “marine grades” would be the natural choice and it too can be quite easy to cut and thread.

Silver steel is another (expensive) option. This comes in shorter lengths, is very hard and very straight but it is not as easy to find in lengths longer than 12” and has to be annealed on the end to the threaded and then (ideally) re-hardened to a suitable hardness afterwards and is more rust resistant the mild steel but not as good as stainless steel.

Unless I have some suitable materials in stock - it is probably cheaper to buy the Maxishafts than make them - but the £6.50 local postage for such a small light padded envelope does annoy!

Bob.

This method will be useful for when I make the removable roof for my Fairey Faun, my first build that doesn't have a fully removable superstructure!

Here are some more cabin roof structures to help illustrate how they simply “plug-in” to the space in the open cabin top.

The open cabin space is copied and then cut onto a flat piece of 4mm ply to become the base for the cabin roof. This will be a close fit all around as it will become the shape of the “plug” that becomes the removable roof.

The roof formers are glued onto this base.

Additional bracing can also be added to this base to stop this assembly twisting as the skins dry - even though they are always fitted in pairs (if more than one piece).

When the skins are fitted to these roof assemblies they are usually made to overlap the cabin front and sides (and sometimes even the rear too).

When dry the skins can be trimmed to be flush with the sides, and shaped to give the overlap look that is required for the front and rear (sunshade etc).

Sometimes the sides can also be trimmed to give a slight overlap if this looks better or suites the boat better than haveing them flush to the cabin sides.

Bob.

I like the idea of the split screen including a slight vee to give it come additional charactor (think VW Camper) and the roof could be extended over it slightly like a mini sun visor.

Most of my removable cabin roofs are like this and it is not a problem as they are basically just a “plug” that fits in to the opening space with the skin covering forming the extended “visor” shape.

Bob,

Morning Bob. Great minds think alike! I was only thinking earlier about a split front screen, particularly as the model is bigger than original.

Not sure about the vee because as you say the blunt front end but that can easily be accommodated if you wish. How difficult will it be to make the removable roof if curved and with a vee?

I copied your latest and your previous drawings so I could place them side by side to make it easier to compare, and yes that slight increase in depth at the bows does look better.

The model is evolving slightly from being a basic utility boat to a utility boat with some style.

Since we are “styling it up” a little bit, I admit to also wondering what a split screen would look like, with a very slight vee on it.

That may be a daft idea as the craft has a “punt nose” but if you think classic VW Camper van, the early split screen variant does have a more appealing look than the later flat screen (Bay Window) type - and they are fairly flat fronted vehicles.

When you draw the plan elevation it will be easier to see if the design would take it or not, but as a previous Bay Window owner, I have to admit that the “splittee” had more style with no other real (apparent visible) changes to the body shape.

Nice work Chris.

Bob.

Do you like the angle of the deck? Only a bit but to my mind it looks better than being parallel to the keel and gives a bit more depth to the bow.

Fortunately I'm going to be a little less busy than anticipated over the next few days so will be able to progress the drawings.

Yup much easier to whip the bandsaw around a gentle curve like that Chris 😎

….nice to see that forward rudder position - should give really good steering response 👍

Bob.

See what I mean and I've added a curve between the cabin and coaming! 😁

I must admit when I look at the side view that it needs a bit of angle to the deck to deepen the bow! 😆

Thanks for the original kit plan and instructions Harry - very interesting and a useful reference for when I build the bigger Sprite Plus from the new drawings that Chris is producing for us.

I look forward to seeing some pictures of your Sprite when it is finished on the Classic Model Power Boats thread.

Always good to hear from you - stay safe,

Bob.

A simple day boat/recovery craft ticks all the boxes for me Chris.

Too much detail could make it just another power boat rather than one to be dragged to the lake every time to be "used and abused"!

An 11" long 5mm prop shaft has been "sorted" 👍.....along with a 12" 5mm shaft for the LesRo Sportsman than I am about to restore.

Bob.

Interesting Harry, do you know who came up with those modifications?

Trouble is I suppose, that it is moving away from the simple original design and those type of additions are at odds with a lack of window frames etc.

But that's never stopped us and there will be a temptation with our bigger Sprite Plus to add detail! 😀

Hi Me Lads
Some Sprite Mk2 paper work.
I will see if I can do the frames from the kit before I start building it !!!!
I have spare Surpass Hobby C3542-1450KV and ESC looking for a home.

Harry

Thanks Chris,

That looks like it is going to work very well, and the forward mounted rudder should give it really good steering too 👍

We are popping back home today to mow the lawns and try to get the garden looking OK ready for the winter.

Nobody explained to our grass that it should stop growing ready for the winter!

I will make time to check the prop shafts that I have in the workshop (shed) and see if I have anything to make into an M5 shaft 11” long. If not, I will order a new Maxishaft.

Wood stock will also be checked as I suspect I may need to make a new order for some stringers and possibly some skins too!

I am looking forward to cutting some new wood again, but first I will strip the bandsaw and give it a good check-over and a new blade.

Bob.

Rudder moved to 70mm from stern, water inlet added and prop shaft and motor repositioned for 45mm prop.

As you can see there is plenty of leeway if you want to allow for a bigger prop than this. These changes unsurprisingly didn't make make any difference to the length of the prop tube so remains at 11". This assumes that the motor mount can be fitted that low in the hull OK? Not a problem I guess with that type of design unlike the ones I usually use. I do have one I used for dimensions when working on the Stiletto derivatives and will use it in Sprite Plus!

Upstand to be added to keel to support the rudder.

It's no problem altering it Bob and you will building it first I think!

I'll work on it being a 45mm prop positioned close to the bottom of the hull and position the water inlet between it and the rudder. I think this model will fly even with a max 45mm prop!

Once everything else is drawn the frames will be easy peasy!

Hi Chris,

I usually make/adjust/buy the length of prop shaft to suite the design I am working on so the length will be determined by the model.

Your plans look OK as they are, so don’t worry about making any changes to accommodate a 55mm prop size as the largest size likely to be fitted would probably be 45mm.

I am going to drive home tomorrow to pick up some things and tidy the garden etc etc so when I am there I will check my wood stock and order anything that I may need to top-up on.

An 11” Maxi-shaft and coupling can be ordered too, but if I have any spare time (!) I will check my stock of old prop shafts/brass tube and silver steel to see if I can make or convert a shaft from what I have already.

There is no rush for the plans Chris, although I will prepare everything so I am ready to make a start, any wood and parts that I order will take some time to arrive and I am still away more than I am at home at the moment.

Yes I usually water cool all of my model boats - the only one that I have ever made without a water cooled ESC is the Kopy Kommander that I have used a 120A fan cooled ESC on and it is working well so far…….but even then I fitted a water cooled jacket onto the in-runner motor and mounted that on a water cooled motor mount!

Installing water cooling is always a good idea as I don’t have to use it - but it is always ready to connect-up and can be by-passed if it is not needed.

Thanks for getting this project moving, it will be fun putting it together .

Bob.

The prop tube as drawn is 11" but this might change when I make the alterations to accommodate the 55 prop? Though I guess this can be achieved by increasing the angle though I like to try and keep as shallow as possible - what is the max. angle you are happy with?

Yes, bulkheads are 4mm and the keel and doublers 6mm with the doublers reducing to 3 or 4mm in front of the prop tube though they can be 6mm all the way. Stringers will be the usual 2 No. laminated at 1/8 x 1/4" or 3.2 x 6.5mm.

Not had any time to do anymore today and I've got a pretty busy week but if I do get time I'll have a look at the prop tube. What length do you usually use?

Are you going to water-cool?

If you can let me know the length of prop shaft that you have drawn into your new Sprite Plus plans I will get a 5mm Maxi-shaft and coupling on order so I am ready to go when you are Chris.

A suitable motor and mount are already here and I have some plywood, so I think I will have enough to get started…and hopefully finish the build.

I am guessing that the bulkheads will be 4mm and the keel and doublers will be 6mm (please advise).

A trip home early this week is planned so I can check to see if there is enough wood and skins to complete the build.

I am not too sure if I have enough stringers so again if you let me know what size you have drawn them at I will have enough time to order any new woods that will be needed in time for the build.

This could be good fun Chris ……maybe we could even drag Will into building one too ? 🤣

Bob.

I can see the Sprite Plus being the possible cause for the demise of the few “plastic phantastics” that I still have.

Most of my fast electric boats have new homes, but I still like to have a model that I can just turn up with and bung it onto the water and drive - something that these RTR craft do remarkably well.

My current favourite models for this job are my two Thunder Tigre Avanti models (one orange and one blue), but they are both quite old now and there are no spare parts available for them anywhere, so one day I will need to find a replacement for them.

Much as I admire the ease of use and performance that these models give me, I am aware that there will be thousands more of them made, and although there may not be too many of them left in action for very much longer (no spare parts) they are far from being unique.

My Sprite Plus will not be anything like anyone else’s Sprite Plus (most will be built much better than mine), but it will be uniquely mine…and it will also sound like a proper Model Power Boat should!

This nice simple craft could easily replace my plastic RTR models by being just as easy to use, but much easier to maintain and repair if/when needed…..and in the unlikely event of a total write-off, reasonably inexpensive and quick to replace,

What could be better than that?

Bob.

I think you're right Bob, it will make a great everyday model.

I'm a bit (well a lot!) precious about my Faireys, because of the amount of work I've put into them and the uniqueness of some of them and it will be good to have something relatively simple, quick to build and if it does take a knock it will be easy to fix.

My plastic RTR boats serve that purpose but it will be nice to have a timber, self-build to fulfill that role as well.

Not been able to do much of anything today as the back door lock decided to self-distruct when locked and I've had the fun job of replacing it!

Hi Chris,

I think your “Sprite Plus” will be the sort of model that will be taken to the lake every trip - not just as a rescue boat, but as a simple fun boat.

If the Sprite plus can perform anything like as well as the Vic Smeed Remora (of similar size) it could well become my favourite “go-to” boat.

The forwards rudder position that I will use should give the model a tight turning circle that will come in very handy when a rescue mission is attempted…..and make fast turns a lot of fun!

I will start by fitting the same motor and ESC that I use on my Remora and see how it goes.

Bob.

Your drawing looks very good Chris.

With that many 4mm bulkheads it will be super-strong and twist free - perfect !

Thanks for showing the type of water-cooled motor mount on your drawing that I like to use, it looks very neat and tidy.

It also looks like you have drawn a Maxi-Coupling - exactly what I will be fitting between the motor and the 5mm Maxi-shaft.

I tend to use the S55 prop size purely as a gauge when setting the prop angle as low as possible.

Alternatively, an X50 prop almost touching the underside of the bottom skin gets the prop as close to the underside as is practical.

The actual size of prop that I would probably use on this craft with a good brushless motor would probably be an S40 …or with a really torquey out-runner motor possibly an S45 or an X40 could be tested to see what works best.

My guess would be that the S40 would work best as that is what I have on my similar sized Remora ….and that works really well.

I would fit my rudder in your design 70mm from the back as I have enjoyed the difference to the steering response that this style of forward rudder mounting has given me in my Remora and Rapier…..and has already been fitted in my second Rapier….

Nice work Chris - can’t wait to get started !

Bob.

I was drawing when you posted so hadn't seen your comments.

For starters I'd positioned the rudder and prop shaft as per the original and at 12 degrees. I've added a red line at 70mm from the transom so as you can see there shouldn't be a problem with positioning the rudder there.

Blimey, 55mm prop as a max! I was thinking 35 or maybe 40mm for a 30" boat. I've added a red rectangle showing a 55mm and with adjustment this could be catered for. I need to draw a section to see how the motor mount fits with the hull skins etc.

Yes, that's exactly how I was going to do the superstructure and with a slightly recessed well deck.

Drawing attached to give you a flavour but plenty more to do.

Hi Chris,

I think it would be a good idea to see if we can plan to fit the rudder shaft 70mm forward of the transom and then make the shaft angle to give enough clearance for an X55 propeller as it will probably be the largest size that anyone would want to fit on this craft......and it could turn as well as the Remora too!

If you are making a fixed superstructure (like most Aerokits and LesRo builds) this would be superb as the cabin sides could run right to the transom to interlock with every bulkhead (and the transom) making a really rigid construction and forming the side walls to the open rear well deck at the same time like the Fairey Spear (and LesRo Sportsman).

A little curvature on the deck would make it look less utilitarian and a little more classy.

The same curvature could be used on the cabin top too so that everything harmonises nicely.

Small details can make the Sprite Plus a really good looking model - just a tad nicer than its slightly smaller original and I am sure it will be superb to drive and have some fun making white water with (in-between it’s occasional rescue duties.

Bob.

Even with the rudder forwards on the Rapier it reminds me of how a Fairey steers, probably because of the similar vee hulls and personally I prefer it to the Remora where the stern looks to be pushing out as it turns which would be beneficial for tight turns. Of course they are different sized boats so the rudder from the stern needs to be compared on a percentage basis.

I've been doing a bit more now and then and progressing the plan and side view. Whilst the shape is virtually the same it's almost a complete construction redesign and repositioning of components. The frames will be one of the last jobs to be done!

I'll see how the motor and prop shaft fits at around 12 degrees (OK with that angle?) and then we can see how much room we've got to play with for the rudder position and battery etc. Obviously we don't want the motor and prop tube too far forward. Once I've got that in place I'll post a picture up.

I'm thinking of a flat deck for simplicity and it will make it easier to fit the claw or whatever though it will be easy enough to add camber to the deck during construction if so desired.

As a matter of interest, I moved the rudder further forward when I restored my first Rapier as I thought it would help the steering.

I got the idea from the steering competition boats from the 1960’s and it certainly works!

Given the dual requirements that I have planned for my own Sprite Plus (mainly white water sport and fun with a built in occasional boat recovery function), moving the rudder a little further forwards could be a good idea to aid both functions.👍

On my Remora the centre of the rudder post is 68mm forwards from the transom, but on my Rapier I moved it a full 100mm to the centre of the rudder post forward from the transom.

I think both steer a little better than most Classic Model Power Boats….check out these two videos of them both in action and let me know what you think?

Bob.

The rudder, scoop and prop positions are about the same Chris 🤣

Bob.

Having just come across the Stiletto drawing I noticed a number of similarities between it and Sprite. Not exact, well nowhere near (!) but just design cues with regard to the cabin and angles. Both Lesro of course.

Or is it just me! 😀

30 inches? I know that I am not the only one that uses a Springer tug as a rescue boat. The Springers are 18 inches long (very easy to transport) and with the two "tow knees" (vertical push bumpers) are very handy. With a short length they are highly maneuverable.

Lew

Hi Chris,

Giving the 30" Sprite Plus a fixed superstructure would definitely make it more weatherproof and gets my vote 👍

The interlocking cabin sides (like LesRo/Aerokits construction) would also give some extra rigidity and strength to the boat

Thanks for including my favourite water-cooled cast alloy motor mount in your drawings Chris.

Using this mount universally on all my models allows me to rapidly test different motors to find the one that works best in any boat - and will be helpful when testing your new creation too!.

This could be a workhorse that could also perform really well as a sports boat too.

Bob.

OK, I'll draw it at 30" as just enlarging it when printing might cause problems with the size and positioning of the rudder, prop shaft and motor and I'll show your favourite motor mount Bob.

Being bigger we could make the superstructure fixed with a removable roof and hatch. I know we are moving away from the original design in some ways but it will look very similar and "Crabbie" will have the DNA of Sprite.

That certainly looks the part as a workhourse but is a bit complicated for our needs! And too slow for Bob when not doing recovery duties! 😀

I have the original free plan from Model Boats magazine.
Built it years ago but it is in my to do list.

I'm pretty sure that I've seen the plan for Egrette free online too actually.

Will

Egrette - 27in long 9in beam

Have you seen this one, total styrene construction.
Plan and hull kit available from Sarik Hobbies

I think 30" would certainly be long enough Chris and don't think a longer boat would be very practical to take along every trip - just incase a rescue was required.

Plywood would be my choice for a boat like this - just like all my other Classic Model Power Boats....except the Veron Marlin, and I have some doubts about this boats strength for day to day use due to its lightweight construction.

This boat could well be a workhorse - as well as being a nice model to run so I would like to build mine to take anything that is thrown at it when it is out in all weathers, and at 30" long and built from ply it should be perfect.

Bob.

I just happened to have some spare time this afternoon and thought I'd make a start, won't be able to do much more until later in the week though as it's my wife's birthday tomorrow and her car's in for service the next day. With the poor weather forecast hoping to do a bit more on Faun as well soon.

Was just wondering about the keel with some of the timbers being so big and thought it might be balsa? But most likely is ply. I'll draw it using 6mm though to facilitate the 8mm prop tube.

Going over say 30" might be stretching it, given its simple basic design which looks OK at a smaller size. Also I think it would need some extra frames? Anyway, we can see how it pans out once I've drawn it as standard. I'm thinking that the jaws would have mini hulls like a wide catamaran!

Thanks Chris.

Yes, I will be using an M5 8mm o/d MaxiShaft for my recovery Sprite and I am more than happy to go with your suggested "Sprite Plus" measurements.

Slightly bigger will make it more usable more often in our Great British weather 🤣 and a 6mm keel sounds about right to me.

Thank you for making the drawings - I will start making the templates and cutting the plywood as soon as the drawings arrive.........please let me know the cost of the postage and printing etc as I really appreciate the time and effort that you are putting in.

.....and however long it takes you - it would take me 10 times longer.........and wouldn't be as good!

Bob.

Chris, i didnt realise you were having a drawing session. I know you're not doing it specifically for me, but thank you anyway.
I'll have to get up in the loft and have a look, I presume it's ply, but couldn't say for sure.
The jaws i would say would need to be very light, as most Sprite that i have seen, seem to have a bit of a bow down attitude. The wide and pretty square bow would lend itself well for adaptation to a recovery vessel.
A 50% bigger Sprite, around 34", that could make a nice model that's not too large to transport, but one that has a handy 2nd purpose too 🤔

Will - Too many ideas, not enough time 🙄