Wow, 24 channels and 125 model memory - I rest my case! I thought my Tx was good with 8 channels and 30 model memory! As I said, I know that some folks need more channels for some models but I was just musing really at the posts concerning updating of software etc. and the fact that Tx designed for aircraft are generally far too complicated for the needs of most of us, but it's Hobson's choice really for stick Tx.

I could put all my models on one Tx but as said battery life can be an issue and it's a good idea to have a backup/spare Tx for the future, particularly as in my case Hitec have stopped making Tx and receivers. When I go to the club I only take a few models and if that means taking 3 or 4 Tx then that's not a problem in the car. In fact if I'm taking any RTR run models I have to as they came with their own cheap trigger Rx as well as taking my stick Tx for the other models.

I think us blokes like collecting things as getting a few recent and older Hitec Tx (all 2.4GHz) has been good fun! They are good quality and whilst older could be a risk for aircraft it is much less so for model boats.

@ChrisF I would agree probably more than you need for just boats but why carry multiple tx's about when you can use one for all your models - mine has 24 channels and will store 125 models I agree I never get the need to use them all but I don't have any models at all that just uses 2 channels and I have a couple that use 10 channels.

Also use an FsSky for sometime and the pick up something like a FlySky - they feel so cheap and tacky - but the downside I guess you do pay for the quality.

Two advantages of the FRSky you can connect it to your computer and program it from there and even the onboad programming is so much easier when you are used to it. You have a much greater range of receivers with FRSky and the transmitter are dual channel

Unless you fly as well, most transmitters are far too capable and complicated for what we need. I have a number of these type but it comes with wanting Tx that have memory for multiple models. Same with the Rx, I have some that are 6, 7 and even 9 channels when most of my models only need 2! But of course I know that some folks have a need for more channels with their boats.

@SouthportPat To update Ethos just connect your transmitter to your PC and press the update button - easy peasy - i changed from Open TX to Ethos and glad I did

@SouthportPat I already have the transmitter

@EdW In my humble opinion get a transmitter that runs Ethos - its like Edge on Steroids but easier to use and has better support - I use and FRSky TX18 and whilst the technology has progressed since I purchased mine - I fine the TX18 more than capable and also if you venture into the realms of submarines they are dual band :-)

Well looks like I must try EdgeTX

Thanks for the comments

@EdW Did my last update maybe a year ago or more.
Now on edge TX (pretty much the same) so refreshing myself with opentx at the same time

@SimpleSailor I updated my 9XR to the last version of Open TX.
I have not used it for a while as I used it for “drones” which I have now given up.
I was using an Orange DSMX TX module with my Spektrum receivers. I have now bought a ‘native’ TX module and receiver.
I intend using the rotary switch option for ancillaries on one or my boats

@EdW Hi Ed. Yes I have on my 2019 X9D+. I have two of them. One runs Edge TX the other the last valid version of Open TX

Has anyone here flashed/updated the firmware on a Tranis or FrSky transmitter?

Yes thanks, I did Bob and as you say it was Multiplex that was taken over by Hitec.

I've got a bit carried away with buying Hitec transmitters and now have enough to spread my models amongst and have backups for the future. One I was particularly pleased about was getting a Flash 7 in as new condition to compliment my Flash 8 - these two were the last models that Hitec made before stopping Tx and Rx production and concentrating on servos. The older ones I've bought are in very good condition as well.

An alternative was to go to another brand but I had a good number of Rx so was reluctant to. Looking for more though so if anyone in the UK has any Minima or Optima Rx I'm interested!

Chris

Multiplex and HiTec.

Did you know that Multiplex and HiTec have the same ownership Chris?

I am not sure who bought who, but I think it was HiTec that bought the German Multiplex business?

Bob.

I had been racing 1/8 nitro cars for years Chris, long before racing large scale cars became a sport that I think probably started in France with Yankee 1/4 scale cars (made in Talent in France) and later the 1/5 scale FG cars that I became heavily involved with that were made in Germany (Stuttgart) and the 4WD MCD cars that were made in Turkey (Istanbul).

That was a long time ago now, but I remember it with great fondness as it was good, but it was also really hard and time consuming to prepare and travel to race the cars that demanded a lot of commitment from myself and my family.

Classic Model Power Boats are much more relaxing and were already well established long before I built my first Aerokits Swordsman kit in the 1960’s when it first came out and I saw it in a Keil Kraft catalogue.

The r/c cars and the Classic Model Power Boats were all driven by myself with the classic two stick radio’s - until the event in Levin that I previously mentioned when I more or less switched over to steer-wheel transmitters for both.

I also built and run r/c model trucks and r/c model helicopters and drones and dabbled briefly with r/c aircraft too, but these hobbies suited stick radios better than steer-wheel radios.

Currently I am enjoying building and operating 1/16 scale r/c tanks and so I still use the sticks for them and the steer-wheel radio types on most days for boats and r/c cars of all types.

…. and I still enjoy using both types.

Bob.

You must have been pretty good then Bob to achieve that racing level using a stick Tx. It makes sense that a steer-wheel Tx was better, certainly on a hard/tarmac track as the tyres have more grip and you need to be more precise with steering. With boats and planes you have a certain amount of slip so have more leeway - though with race boats which are twitchy at high speed you need some precision!

For most of my boats I could use wheel Txs, apart from my yachts and the Fisherman, though I have seen someone using a wheel Tx to operate a yacht. But stick Txs are what I started off with so happy to use for my slower models and like you enjoy using both.

Steer-wheel Transmitter.

As they were mentioned here in a reply, I thought that I would mention the use of steer-wheel transmitters.

Many years ago when I was racing large scale cars I raced at an international meeting at Levin (in France) and I was unlucky enough to be placed in a heat with most of the worlds best known and fastest drivers.

We only had 10 drivers in each qualifying heat, and I noticed that I was the only one using a stick transmitter. After this heat I looked around at the other drivers in following heats and again, very few stick transmitters we’re being used by any of the other drivers.

Like Chris, I had only previously considered this type of radio for use on “toys” and not for use on serious r/c models, but here I was with a hundred or so other drivers (some of them were factory or “works” drivers) that preferred them over my choice of twin stick transmitters.

The following week, I took a day off to run my race car on the local Halifax circuit (I was a member and had a key to the circuit). Back then I only used Futaba radio and was able to match their top steer-wheel transmitter to the receiver in my FG race car.

By alternating between my FF3 stick radio and the steer-wheel radio I found the latter a little “strange” at first, but as more hours were spent pounding the tarmac that day, my recorded lap times with the steer-wheel radio became faster than I could achieve with my much more familiar stick transmitter !

From that day onwards, I have used both types of transmitters but for Classic Model Power Boats that seldom have a use for more than two or three channels, I almost almost always use a steer-wheel transmitter, but I also like to use a twin-stick transmitter from time to time to “keep my hand in” as I enjoy using them both.

Bob.

Thanks Hsailer. Some of them are a good few years old now but they are all 2.4 GHz. The early ones have a module that clips into the back of the transmitter so that different frequencies could be used dependant on the market being sold into. In fact, inadvertently, I've become a bit of a collector of Hitec transmitters! Managed to find some old but new or little used for not too much money - still more than others can be bought new though! My newest Tx is the Flash 8 which I bought when Hitec were still making them and amongst my recent purchases is an unused Flash 7 so happy with that.

@ChrisF Hope you don't have frequency interference problems. I've had to change to 2.4G. Good luck.

Thanks to this thread reminding me I've now bought a couple more older Hitec transmitters to add to the three I've already got. So I can spread my models over them and have spares for the future.

I thought I'd struggle a bit with trigger Txs but my ready-to-run models came with them and I soon got used to them. Good job as some were used for racing! I suppose there is some opposition to them as they are associated with toys and are usually a bit cheap and cheerful but they do the job.

But the standalone ones you can buy are better quality and have many of the features of the stick Txs - multiple model memory, end point adjustment and servo reversal etc. In some ways they make more sense as they appeared for RC vehicles which are much closer to boats than planes for what is required control wise and using a wheel for steering makes more sense for most of us as that is how we control full-size cars and boats. Of course some ships and powered yachts now use joysticks but that isn't your average Joe!

Some of our club members only use trigger Txs for all their powered models.

The trouble is model boating is only small compared with aircraft and vehicles and we have to make do with equipment designed for them. There have been the odd Tx designed for boats over the years, e.g. those with twin throttle sticks, but I'm not aware of anything now, certainly at an affordable price.

I've always used traditional stick tx sets but recently moved to the game style after a discussion with my son (radio link Zorro - and plenty of Rx options ) It's nice to be honest not being stuck with one or two brands of Rx units. Now have several stick TX units that will be replaced (well maybe not my Frsky Tarranis as I have a lot of telemetry stuff with the rx units)

Yes, it's a good idea to have more than one Tx and not have all your eggs in one basket. I started off with Hitec as the chap I bought one of my first boats off had fitted a Hitec Rx and recommended the brand so I bought a single model Hitec Tx. As my model building increased I bought another Hitec Tx but one this time that had a memory for multiple models, 20 in this case which more than covers my present and future needs. It's a great Tx but like all computerised aircraft ones it's complete overkill for boats but it's easy enough to set up for my needs.

Big problem now is that Hitec stopped manufacturing Tx a few years ago as they just couldn't compete on price and also Rx. They still make servos though which I use. I could do with a few more Rx but fortunately did gather a number from various sources.

The downside to having a Tx that can handle many models, apart from someone else not being able to run one of your models, is battery life - the Flash 8 I have doesn't last that long and you can't buy new batteries anymore, though I do have a non-OEM that fits.

Anyway, when buying another model, another Hitec Tx came as part of the deal - and whilst quite old it's 2.4 and well made and that had a model memory as well. And I'm just buying another old Tx as well so I can spread my models around rather than have most on one.

In addition I wanted a trigger Tx for my plastic race boats/messing around boats and so bought a Radiolink which will take multiple models.

Two weeks ago I bought my third Flysky FS-i6X with a 10 channel receiver on Prime Day. Cost was $53 (US) with free shipping.

I replaced the Futana 6 channel system in my Wiesel. I bought the Futaba about 20 years ago for $200 (US). Amazed at the price difference as well as the Flysky being much easier to program

maybe just wrong

Totally agree bruce1946 I too have a separate set for each boat, I can buy a set with 6 channel receiver for £65 and don't have to pay postage as the model shop is just down the road form my house.
As you say when we have a regatta I take my grandson and some of his friends so they can all sail at the same time.
A great unit for the price.
As to the switch problem I haven't had any issues, however the solutions suggested seem to be a simple repair Thanks to all the solution pioneers

Looked at a few but being I have about 40 of the same switches "in stock" I tend to use what I have, especially on cheap items.

Lew

Added: Plus ordering, shipping, and doing this sometime in the future (maybe) also needs to be considered. It is now done.

For replacement switches, did you try Mouser, Allied Electronics, Newark electronics or Antique Radio Supply.
Can you transfer the pcb to a different switch?

SimpleSailor, I did it and it works. I used a solder sucker and easily removed the little pc board. I replaced it with one of the many switches I have. Unfortunately I did not have any with similar paddles. Used what I have.

Everyone should note that the Flyskys use a metric threaded switch instead of the same threads. The hole in the case is ok but the sae nuts (1/4-40) are larger than the metric ones (M6 X 0.75) requiring a little material removal on the inside of the case.

Again, model-boats com has succeeded it getting the right info to the right people.

Lew

I used to use other brands but years back I started using spektrum. I have a DX6 with all my planes n ships on it. I just bought a new transmitter Radio Link (see pic) for when I’m doing ships in LA California. It came with 2 receivers and has a trigger n knob for cars. 6 channel so it has switches located on the body. With a handgrip n even a video screen. I paid $80 for it. I can put FPV video on the transmitters monitor. It is sitting next to bench as I haven’t used it as it’s getting shipped when we go out west. I haven’t used my Xmas present waiting for me there. My son bought from Leeds Hobby shop UK while on tour there with Chappel Roan band. I’ll bring new glue he hit in Germany fir wood to plastic and new CA bottle. I haven’t used esc n servos all set to shop. I’ll be there for a month n build the model there. He has a pool I can run it in n ballast test it in too. Happy new year from Massachusetts USA!

I read this with interest as almost all my 1/16 tanks run on FlySky radio units, and those that don't will be converted to FlySky sometime in the future.

My boats currently run on RadioLink, but the temptation to standardise on the budget priced FlySky radio systems for all my models is always at the back of my mind.

Fortunately the reliability of my RadioLink systems will probably keep this thought firmly at the back of my mind as I continue to run happily with it.

Bob.

As inexpensive as these radios are, it cheaper to by a new one I have a separate radio for each of my boats, I can buy a new radio and receiver for less than 60 dollars. and if I want to let a friend use one of my boats and me another boat at same time it works out better.

Interesting to know that the hobby king unit is compatible, I also had a "slight " mishap with my flysky unit and bought a replacement. Kept the old one for spares or repair. Depending on how confident I feel in taking it apart 🤔

Depending on your soldering skills, you could remove the pcb from the switch.

As the old switch is broken, carefully cut the terminals off the old switch, releasing the pcb, then either remove the terminal ends, by de-soldering them from the pcb, or to make life easier, solder 3 small lengths of wire from the new switch to the corisonding pcb cut terminals, and then slip a bit of heat shrink over the pcb to stop it electrically touching anything else in the handset.

I had to change 2 of my switches from the on/off, to on/middle/off type, and had to use a bit of veroboard to replicate the pcb on the extra switches.

The Hobby King Turnigy IA6 ones are the same unit as I have both and the receivers work on both.

Hi Lew

I had to replace one of mine. I purchased the switch from Amazon and replaced it on the small attached PCB. A bit of care is required so that the PCB tracks are not damaged. The actual assembly is made by Flysky so would only be available from them.