Titebond 3 is a high performance PVA. We can't get Titebond 3 here in South Africa. Gorilla/Gator glue you which is a polyurethane based glue have to Work using Rubber Gloves and have a bottle of rubbing Alcohol handy as it sticks like mad and you won't be able to get it off your hands.
I still have Cascamite! Been using a Sika PVA adhesive but the bulwarks were fitted with ZAP 30 minute Epoxy. I have found an eight hour epoxy to fix the stringers to the bulkheads with with. Why is it we make short worktime adhesives is beyond me. I have always found that the quickset glues are prone to be brittle. The only one I haven't found to be brittle is ZAP. Going to epoxy the inside of the boat before fitting the skins

---

Sails like a dream even compared to my Laser. Not for early learning though! Very responsive

---

Can't get anything like this here in South Africa. I had to put up with a Ryobi Mini Belt and disc Sander

---

It is amazing that companies that supply almost RTR Yachts don't think. What comes to mind on Joysway, Thunder Tiger and Kyosho is that it needs 12 Bowsies that's all you get! They should add a few extra screws and Bowsies it literally cents to them. I dropped a bowsie off the bench when I rigged the DF 95 black bowsie, black tiled floor don't go together, found it after about 10 minutes of cussing. One thing Joysway did on the DF 95 was give you about an extra metre of Dyneema. TT and Kyosho I think they must supply it to the exact mm! And no spare Stainless Self Tappers if the yacht needs 12 you get 12.

---

Just recently put together one of the newer Joysway DF 95,s What a pleasure. The instructions are very clear and concise, Obviously written by somebody that knows English. This boat fits into the RG 95 class. Comes complete with 1 sail set made of Mylar. Other sails can be manufactured suggest Sochs Sails

---

This is the Joysway DF 95 which is almost the same as the DF65 (8/10)

I had the same problem in the end I gave up and made a plan ( Another way round) Try the UK Distributor might help. Although here in South Africa everybody's blonkers about Model Jets.

---

Try the 3M scotch ones suitcase type in line and take blade fuses
I use RS components here in SA.

---

Try using a left handed drill I have a couple from Tracey Tools Devon. Very Useful

---

Hi All
Would suggest you dry assemble with the cabin sides as my forward bulkhead was out by 2 Degrees.
When I cut the pieces out I used a new Dremel Moto Saw as my old srollsaw from Dremel was condemned due to inavailability of blades.
Like I say not enough clamps
Have ordered the decking from Jotika this is extra and allows you to plank the deck and cockpit more realistically.

---

Hi Colin H I bet they didn't have interiors like your photo. I wrked fo David Brown and we used to own Vosper I can only remember some of the cabins detail.

---

Hi Westquay
Yes the ire Tenders had a wheel like a steering and twin throttles

---

The original build had a steering wheel much like a car!!
The engines were twin throttled lever type.

---

Hi I have ordered the additional decking material from Jotika. I remember seeing similar boats around Bideford and most cabins had mahogany sides with white rooves and mahogany /teak grab rails

---

Don't know what happened
MOTOR COMPARISON
Model Number Caldercraft CEM 900T MFA Torpedo 850
Nominal Voltage 12v 12v
Operating Range 6-24v 12v
Type Brushed Brushed
Current Cons No Load 0.4A 1.9A
Current Consumption Max Eff 5A 10,8A
Stall Current 20.3A 40A
RPM at Nominal Voltage 3000r/min 9778r/min
Prop Caldercraft 75mm

The Motor I am putting in this Sea Queen is a Torpedo 850. This is due to the Caldercraft motor only manages just above walking pace.

---

Hi All
Refer to attached for motor comparison.
I don't like using Cyano so the hull be built using ZAP 30minute epoxy and a weather proof Alphylitic from Sika. I will more than likely use a polyurethane based glue for the skinning. The hole boat will be epoxy coated inside and out to add strength. By the way the epoxy resin will increase the strength by about 2.5😁😁

---

Part of my collection

---

The Bulwarks were out in place on the jig and glued with ZAP 30 minute epoxy. I used the cabin sides to align the bulkheads. By the way Clamps you will need a lot of these

---

To give you some idea of the quality of this kit. Here are some photos. The quality is excellent and if you have a bit of experience this can easily be built. I don't fancy the all white look as the original had mahogany cabin sides and brass portholes this is what I will do with it,👍👍

---

Well spotted they are from SLEC including the blind nuts and bolts
I used them originally to do the fuselage on a R/C Lancaster. Wn't fly it anymore as I don't to plough it into the ground. 😉😉😉

---

I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide.
The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together.
This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.

---

Hi
This is being built from the Jotika Sea Queen Kit.
The kit is quite comprehensive but I need to check the fittings supplied as some of the look a bit small for a 1:12 Boat. Also decided to change the Motor from the existing Caldercraft to an MFA Torpedo 850 as I believe the Caldercraft Motor only manages walking pace.
First thing was to built a building board. I need this to also cope with a VMW 46" RAF Crash Tender.

---

Comes in Kit form ex Jotika. Suggest changing the motor to the motor supplied which is a Caldercraft. (Motor: MFA 850) (ESC: Perkins) (10/10)

---

When Building Please watch out for the winch servo tangling. Otherwise a good beginners boat (5/10)

---

Absolutely a fun Package (8/10)

Guys
The Jig is finished for Sea Queen, I have designed it in such a way that the 46" RAF Crash Tender that I have as kit from VMAW will use the same jig.. Will be fitting to MFA 850's on this as the original had two props. Built one of these many years ago fitted with a Taplin Twin sold it when I moved to South Africa.Not allowed to run IC Boats at the 2 clubs I belong to
My wife must never know how much my hobby costs

---

Best thing I ever did was deal with SLEC as an aeromodeller. I have a fuselage building Jig that I am using to build a new Sea Queen. The idea is to ensure no twist on a 46" hull. Just making the blocks to allow for the Skeg will post pictures soon😊😊

---

Component Shop Do Servo Testers For Wiring I found this hope it helps

---

Hi Sarik have plans for a few hovercraft all requiring skirts and light builds.

---

Hi Gents
I have found this build fascinating including robbob's build. I have one these to build but will be doing an Aerokits Sea Commander first. As these designs go back to the 60's and were designed by Les Rowe ( I know I had one with an ED Racer in it.) So I will be referring back to this quite a bit. Will start a build blog on it. Shouldn't be to difficult busy changing my model engineering workshop to build boats. Model Engineering too expensive now boiler for my Springbok cost close GBP 1 300.00 alpne 😊😊. Trouble is I am importing all parts from UK etc. Between royal snail mail and SA post office I need to order any requirements in advance.

---