The port-side pin-rails are on, and the trim-boards, inboard and outboard, installed. I still need to find, or mix, a paint color that look like canvas for the hammocks; I don't like the gray.
Now I've got to make the rest of the chainplates for the shrouds so actual rigging can start.
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The port-side pin-rails are on, and the trim-boards, inboard and outboard, installed. I still need to find, or mix, a paint color that look like canvas for the hammocks; I don't like the gray.
Now I've got to make the rest of the chainplates for the shrouds so actual rigging can start.
The pin-rails and trim boards installed, I went about putting the cap-rails on the drop-panel portions of the bulwarks fore and aft.
These were cut from a 3/16" thick board a friend left from making a guitar at my shop some years ago, using a card template traced from the bulwarks themselves.
Probably better described as "log" over "rails," since they were fairly rough made, each panel would have had their own section, but since I didn't model the function of the panels, I made the rail in one piece, and scored it where the breaks would be. Once fitted, it was stained, darkening those score lines. It was drilled for the round-toothpick pins that would help fasten it to the bulwarks, besides just being glued to the top.
The end-boards with round tops at the ends of the bulwarks, are just sitting there. I plan to make slightly thicker ones for permanent placement. The ones that frame the entry-port were carved, and I'm trying to 3D model those with no success so far.
As a placeholder, I printed the carvings on paper and glued that to blank end-boards. Anyway, these will probably go on next along with the spray-screens up on the head.
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The pin-rails and trim boards installed, I went about putting the cap-rails on the drop-panel portions of the bulwarks fore and aft.
These were cut from a 3/16" thick board a friend left from making a guitar at my shop some years ago, using a card template traced from the bulwarks themselves.
Probably better described as "log" over "rails," since they were fairly rough made, each panel would have had their own section, but since I didn't model the function of the panels, I made the rail in one piece, and scored it where the breaks would be. Once fitted, it was stained, darkening those score lines. It was drilled for the round-toothpick pins that would help fasten it to the bulwarks, besides just being glued to the top.
The end-boards with round tops at the ends of the bulwarks, are just sitting there. I plan to make slightly thicker ones for permanent placement. The ones that frame the entry-port were carved, and I'm trying to 3D model those with no success so far.
As a placeholder, I printed the carvings on paper and glued that to blank end-boards. Anyway, these will probably go on next along with the spray-screens up on the head.
I made 4 new end-boards from some thin plywood, which require opening the space between the bulwarks and the drop-panels so they'd fit. I have to turn the hull to get at the starboard side, so they aren't installed yet, but I stuck them at the entry-port just for a pic.
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I made 4 new end-boards from some thin plywood, which require opening the space between the bulwarks and the drop-panels so they'd fit. I have to turn the hull to get at the starboard side, so they aren't installed yet, but I stuck them at the entry-port just for a pic.
Well, not that big of an oops, but I forgot to put in two smaller end-boards at the end of the fixed bulwarks where the box pin-rails are.
So, I cut the parts from the old thin basswood end-board I was replacing with thicker ones, and installed these over-looked pieces.
The I installed the new, thicker end-boards except for one, which I have to turn the model around again to get at. Once that piece is installed, it'll pretty much be done with the railings and end-boards.
I think the spray-screens will be next, and I think it might mean moving away from 3D printing...
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Well, not that big of an oops, but I forgot to put in two smaller end-boards at the end of the fixed bulwarks where the box pin-rails are.
So, I cut the parts from the old thin basswood end-board I was replacing with thicker ones, and installed these over-looked pieces.
The I installed the new, thicker end-boards except for one, which I have to turn the model around again to get at. Once that piece is installed, it'll pretty much be done with the railings and end-boards.
I think the spray-screens will be next, and I think it might mean moving away from 3D printing...
The 3D printed spray-screens curled, and I wasn't satisfied they'd stand up, even to being installed, without snapping in half at some point.
So I went back to plan A which was to make the frame in brass rod (1/16") and make the screen either of painted cloth (which is basically what the original was) or styrene or PVC sheet.
The legs of the frames or rails are flattened where they attach to the head to give some gluing surface, and installed with CA, then reinforced with epoxy.
The last pic's of the jig I soldered the frame on. It's a bit cooked, but it did the job
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The 3D printed spray-screens curled, and I wasn't satisfied they'd stand up, even to being installed, without snapping in half at some point.
So I went back to plan A which was to make the frame in brass rod (1/16") and make the screen either of painted cloth (which is basically what the original was) or styrene or PVC sheet.
The legs of the frames or rails are flattened where they attach to the head to give some gluing surface, and installed with CA, then reinforced with epoxy.
The last pic's of the jig I soldered the frame on. It's a bit cooked, but it did the job
The tarp that goes over the frames I made from some Supplex (cloth I use for my sails) with strips of wood hemmed/glued into the bottom and aft ends. It's left a little long at the top and will get trimmed after it's installed. It was spray-painted black, front and back - two coats.
The reinforced edges are glued to the top-rail of the head and the hull, and the loose part is pulled over the rail and CAed to hold it. It's then laced with Dacron sail thread along the top rail and forward end. The whole thing will get another coat of paint brushed on, but first I have to get the port side to this point.
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The tarp that goes over the frames I made from some Supplex (cloth I use for my sails) with strips of wood hemmed/glued into the bottom and aft ends. It's left a little long at the top and will get trimmed after it's installed. It was spray-painted black, front and back - two coats.
The reinforced edges are glued to the top-rail of the head and the hull, and the loose part is pulled over the rail and CAed to hold it. It's then laced with Dacron sail thread along the top rail and forward end. The whole thing will get another coat of paint brushed on, but first I have to get the port side to this point.
I don't have much to go on as the quarter-boat davits go. The images I have of the time frame I'm modeling the boat, are "impressionistic" at best, and I haven't been able to find technical drawings, manuals, instruction, images of other ships, photos, or anything that really shows what these davits looked like or how they were attached.
The two portraits I'm working from are the one I'm basing the model on from 1856, and one from 1860.
The davits I model previously were nothing like the paintings, so I modified it to what I show here. I printed four, two failed outright, and the two I got wouldn't be usable, but they did help with visualization.
There's some details to work out, beside building the proper double-block to replace the one I just slapped on to get a test model made. I'm there had to be some sort of bracing to the bulwark that's not shown, because the davit doesn't appear to extend below the channels to be braced against the hull.
The davits will be among the last parts to go on the model, so there's no hurry to get them done.
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I don't have much to go on as the quarter-boat davits go. The images I have of the time frame I'm modeling the boat, are "impressionistic" at best, and I haven't been able to find technical drawings, manuals, instruction, images of other ships, photos, or anything that really shows what these davits looked like or how they were attached.
The two portraits I'm working from are the one I'm basing the model on from 1856, and one from 1860.
The davits I model previously were nothing like the paintings, so I modified it to what I show here. I printed four, two failed outright, and the two I got wouldn't be usable, but they did help with visualization.
There's some details to work out, beside building the proper double-block to replace the one I just slapped on to get a test model made. I'm there had to be some sort of bracing to the bulwark that's not shown, because the davit doesn't appear to extend below the channels to be braced against the hull.
The davits will be among the last parts to go on the model, so there's no hurry to get them done.
The screens are up, laced, and painted. The tars can have a little privacy while contemplating what that was Cookie fed them. That reminds me, I have to put in the seats and the poop-chute yet.
Well, the sheer runs the full length of the boat now.
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The screens are up, laced, and painted. The tars can have a little privacy while contemplating what that was Cookie fed them. That reminds me, I have to put in the seats and the poop-chute yet.
Well, the sheer runs the full length of the boat now.
Years ago, the lady opened the garage door while I had the full rig up, and snapped off the mizzen topmast and main mast head. I repaired it, though it was difficult as the mast and topmasts are made of white cedar and gluing end-grain does do well at all.
In a photo in the last post, in the upper left of the photo, there are some gray tubes stored up in the garage door tracks. A little over a week ago, I moved the model, with the topmasts un-shipped and t'gallants up, as in the photo, and snapped of the mizzen topmast right at the previous repair. I epoxied it back together, a little sloppily, but I was gonna clean it up later.
Instead, I went and snapped it off again, this time at the doubling. I tried to repair it again, but it was to weak to be of use.
So I made a new mizzen topmast. I don't have any more white cedar long enough, so I used bit of yellow pine from an old cabinet I scavenged some wood from. The picture shows the steps in making the new spar.
Today being a one step forward two steps back kind of day, I started painting the crew figures I 3D printed. These guys are on a portion of the 30-40 squids, marines, officers, and a cat, I plan to man the ship. I don't have the 1850's marine figures, I need to repose a few sailors, and the officer need dis-arming and reposing.
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Years ago, the lady opened the garage door while I had the full rig up, and snapped off the mizzen topmast and main mast head. I repaired it, though it was difficult as the mast and topmasts are made of white cedar and gluing end-grain does do well at all.
In a photo in the last post, in the upper left of the photo, there are some gray tubes stored up in the garage door tracks. A little over a week ago, I moved the model, with the topmasts un-shipped and t'gallants up, as in the photo, and snapped of the mizzen topmast right at the previous repair. I epoxied it back together, a little sloppily, but I was gonna clean it up later.
Instead, I went and snapped it off again, this time at the doubling. I tried to repair it again, but it was to weak to be of use.
So I made a new mizzen topmast. I don't have any more white cedar long enough, so I used bit of yellow pine from an old cabinet I scavenged some wood from. The picture shows the steps in making the new spar.
Today being a one step forward two steps back kind of day, I started painting the crew figures I 3D printed. These guys are on a portion of the 30-40 squids, marines, officers, and a cat, I plan to man the ship. I don't have the 1850's marine figures, I need to repose a few sailors, and the officer need dis-arming and reposing.
Oh my! A compatriot of the fumble. I have deluded myself into believing that I will not make the same mistake over and over, and of course I still do.
The other day, working on assembling a new plane, on the floor, I kept reminding myself that when I stood I needed to clear the stern light which overhangs Juneau's transom. I have broken it off twice before. So when I stood up I, instead snapped off the stbd depth charge rack hanging off her stern and it shattered. Fixable, but I was not happy with myself.
Your crew looks fantastic. They will add such dimension your beauty.
Really amazing.
My commiserations to both of you☹️
But you are not alone!
I have a 1/72 Type IA U-Boat badly in need of refit and TLC.
It tried to crash dive through the concrete floor of my workshop💥😭
The crash worked, the dive didn't.
I ordered some white, black, and blue acrylics, and paint half my little crew as soon as they came in, including Ivan.
Ivan came from a $5 kit of WWII Soviet Naval soldiers, an was the models first crewman whose job it was to be in pictures to give a sense of scale. He even survived the 2011 Earthquake!
Ivan got new paint to match the other crewmen, will remain "clean shaven," and will be posted at the helm.
I had to order more paint as I didn't have anything for things like hair colors, buckets, or casks.
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I ordered some white, black, and blue acrylics, and paint half my little crew as soon as they came in, including Ivan.
Ivan came from a $5 kit of WWII Soviet Naval soldiers, an was the models first crewman whose job it was to be in pictures to give a sense of scale. He even survived the 2011 Earthquake!
Ivan got new paint to match the other crewmen, will remain "clean shaven," and will be posted at the helm.
I had to order more paint as I didn't have anything for things like hair colors, buckets, or casks.
On my O scale model railroad figures , I use clear plastic bases. They are almost invisible on any color surface. I spray figure/ bases with Dullcote. JohnA
All of them are on bits of card for now, but will be attached to the deck. On stands they'd slide around as the model sailed.
Ivan is standing on a piece of clear plastic, he got his feet wet and the card came off. When he's gone sailing, he was taped down to stay with the boat.
PS: I just printed a few more, though four didn't turn out. In the pic they're cleaned and PVA glued to bit of chipboard, then primed black.