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25 posts · Page 2 of 3- ianed57Sub-LieutenantWhat great photos.I've just logged on here this morning and find all these treats! Excellent stuff-and you must know yours to work up your own drawings- thanks for posting these pictures.
IanLiked by Brightwork
- GreggSub-LieutenantI would try and leave the cooling slots fully open, to allow air to circulate through the motor internals. Same goes for any air slots in the front face of the motor, always try and make a hole on the motor mount [if none in], to aid airflow through the motor.
if you cover the slots up, you are only adding to the internal temperature of the motor you are trying to cool.
This model is enlarged by 1.7 giving a length of 36'' and a scale of 1:16. The finished boat weighs about 15 1/2lbs and is powered by an MFA 919D 540 with 2.5:1 reduction, using an Mtroniks ESC and Planet 2.4ghz radio.
The hull was planked in obeche on 6mm ply keel and frames with mahogany blocks at bow and stern. The photos were taken on her maiden voyage at Crealy in Exeter.
- ianed57Sub-LieutenantThanks very much for the kind comments, gentlemen. I admire people who post building blogs but always balk at it myself as I am such a sporadic builder- everything gets done eventually but it can take years! Perhaps I should take more photos as I go along and post a blog retrospectively. incidentally, I would love to build ( and may start) a double sized Guardsman by Vic Smeed- the man could do no wrong!
- OLDHSLSAble SeamanNice work, beautifully made and looking great on the water, a very different and classic subject!
I have a Vic Smeed Thornycroft 73' PT boat (38") which took me about 30yrs to complete, and after about 10yrs of searching on line I actually found 2 great photos of the very boat it was modelled off (HMT49), and credit to Vic Smeed it was pretty much dead on for detail, although as with most PTs,HSLs and the like being chopped and changed there were differences even between the two photos. I think it is a bit of a lottery as to which boat you build at which time in its life if you are looking at an actual vessel. I bought my plan in the late 60s from a hobby shop here in NZ and I didn't finish it till the late 90s!. Bring back the good old stuff!
- Dave MVice AdmiralHi
Nice to see your model. I built the US Coastguard model and use similar motors and ESC. Lipo's were not common when built so I used a 12v 1.2amp sla. Goes well on the water but duration is not very long. I have a pair of brushless motors and controllers and intend to fit with Lipo battery. it would be nice to see pics of your model on the water.
Dave - vaderswarLeading SeamanHI Dave, Sorry for delay in replying, taking boat out on water for trials today will let you know how got on. As to changing to brushless, good idea I use brushless in a lot of my models, but if you have MTroniks escs you can use a lipo upto 3series (11.1v), they say this on their own website, so you could still use same motors with 7.4v lipo but change the esc. the only downside to using lipos is having to add more ballast to get waterline which is what going to find out today. Regards Steve
March 2010. I am now using 12 cells and a Graupner speed controller. I added watercooling too and the boat goes noticeably faster- but melted a fuse holder on first outing so I need to upgrade some of the wiring. There was also a bit of prop aerating on turns so might reduce the prop size.
The last photo is with increased voltage.
There's a video of Scoter on the water.
Sorry I can't answer that, I've never used lipo's so I can't give you a comparison. I've never had any problems with the sealed lead acid batteries, and use them on all my boats, they also double as ballast, as I would rather use batteries that dead weight.
Richard
Cheers matey
Damon 😎