I've replaced the old 6v sealed wet battery with a lipo 3s,11.1 volt 2200mhz, 100c spectrum smart battery. so the 1st run was cautious i just fired up the centre prop to see how she performed, well i was surprised at the turn of speed she had on just 1 prop, and how well she planed, it was a little awkward filming and controlling the boat by myself as i was the only one pond side. this was not without mishaps though, see 2nd video
After checking the boat over she was found to be unmarked and no bits missing, not bad to say she hit the pontoon at full speed, took off and plunged back in at the other side.
So the second run i started on the centre prop and then opened her up on the outer 2, she shot forward and immediately stalled, dead in the water. luckily i could reach her with the ponds barge pole to pull her to the side. i found the fuse had blown , i had fitted a 20amp mini flat fuse, i didn't have a 30amp only another 20amp which blew just as quick, upon opening up the outer props.
any ideas anyone or will a 30amp do the job, or a 2s battery? help any suggestions considered.
Roger
{"text":"I've replaced the old 6v sealed wet battery with a lipo 3s,11.1 volt 2200mhz, 100c spectrum smart battery. so the 1st run was cautious i just fired up the centre prop to see how she performed, well i was surprised at the turn of speed she had on just 1 prop, and how well she planed, it was a little awkward filming and controlling the boat by myself as i was the only one pond side. this was not without mishaps though, see 2nd video\nAfter checking the boat over she was found to be unmarked and no bits missing, not bad to say she hit the pontoon at full speed, took off and plunged back in at the other side. \nSo the second run i started on the centre prop and then opened her up on the outer 2, she shot forward and immediately stalled, dead in the water. luckily i could reach her with the ponds barge pole to pull her to the side. i found the fuse had blown , i had fitted a 20amp mini flat fuse, i didn't have a 30amp only another 20amp which blew just as quick, upon opening up the outer props.\nany ideas anyone or will a 30amp do the job, or a 2s battery? help any suggestions considered.\nRoger","subject":"Brave Borderer 2nd trial, new battery","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_EuOhsYltU"}
I've replaced the old 6v sealed wet battery with a lipo 3s,11.1 volt 2200mhz, 100c spectrum smart battery. so the 1st run was cautious i just fired up the centre prop to see how she performed, well i was surprised at the turn of speed she had on just 1 prop, and how well she planed, it was a little awkward filming and controlling the boat by myself as i was the only one pond side. this was not without mishaps though, see 2nd video
After checking the boat over she was found to be unmarked and no bits missing, not bad to say she hit the pontoon at full speed, took off and plunged back in at the other side.
So the second run i started on the centre prop and then opened her up on the outer 2, she shot forward and immediately stalled, dead in the water. luckily i could reach her with the ponds barge pole to pull her to the side. i found the fuse had blown , i had fitted a 20amp mini flat fuse, i didn't have a 30amp only another 20amp which blew just as quick, upon opening up the outer props.
any ideas anyone or will a 30amp do the job, or a 2s battery? help any suggestions considered.
Roger
Hi Ronan
Thanks for your input.
Its starting to make sense now.
I bit the bullitt and bought a lipo battery and charger. I ended with a spectrum smart 2200mhz,3s, 11.1v,100c.i had a choice of a 30c but thought it may not be man enough for 3 motors so looked at the 50c, but was out of stock, so i ended with the 100c it was the same price as the 50c anyway. The charger was a spectrum smart type to. This monitors the battery and hopefully does everything automatically.
Once again thanks for your help and encouragement
Roger
Hi Ronan
Thanks for your input.
Its starting to make sense now.
I bit the bullitt and bought a lipo battery and charger. I ended with a spectrum smart 2200mhz,3s, 11.1v,100c.i had a choice of a 30c but thought it may not be man enough for 3 motors so looked at the 50c, but was out of stock, so i ended with the 100c it was the same price as the 50c anyway. The charger was a spectrum smart type to. This monitors the battery and hopefully does everything automatically.
Once again thanks for your help and encouragement
Roger
Hi Roger,
You are learning well! A similar road to the one I travelled a couple of years ago.
Hard to see the fuse block on my Brave now, but here is one am assembling for my next project. Got my fuse blocks off Banggood, they offer both 4 and 6 fuse ones.
Used a 6 on the Brave as wanted a fuse per motor, currently using 30 A capacity. Should protect the 50 A ESCs. Bigger fuses and even re-settable ones can be fitted into the block if warranted.
The home made buss bar and battery connector are visible.
Hope this helps.
Rowen
100C should be more that adequate, mine is 30C. You should be able to drive a welder with it too!
Hi Roger,
You are learning well! A similar road to the one I travelled a couple of years ago.
Hard to see the fuse block on my Brave now, but here is one am assembling for my next project. Got my fuse blocks off Banggood, they offer both 4 and 6 fuse ones.
Used a 6 on the Brave as wanted a fuse per motor, currently using 30 A capacity. Should protect the 50 A ESCs. Bigger fuses and even re-settable ones can be fitted into the block if warranted.
The home made buss bar and battery connector are visible.
Hope this helps.
Rowen
100C should be more that adequate, mine is 30C. You should be able to drive a welder with it too![{"id":"162014088467","name":"162014088467","caption":"","url":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/162014088467\/l","thumbUrl":"https:\/\/model-boats.com\/media\/162014088467\/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}]
A short video of the first trial of my Genesis 9000 Offshore Power Boat. This is a boat to use whilst I build others.
The trial was seriously hampered by a faulty main switch. The insides must have fallen apart during transportation. I did manage to get an electrical contact to get around five minutes of the trial. The boat ran well but I will have to adjust the rudder to give more movement. Just after the video ended, the boat hit a ripple whilst turning and flipped over. No water entered the hull so all was good, except the switch now refused to work at all. The trial was ended and unfortunately will now have to wait until I return to my river in August.😤
{"text":"A short video of the first trial of my Genesis 9000 Offshore Power Boat. This is a boat to use whilst I build others.\nThe trial was seriously hampered by a faulty main switch. The insides must have fallen apart during transportation. I did manage to get an electrical contact to get around five minutes of the trial. The boat ran well but I will have to adjust the rudder to give more movement. Just after the video ended, the boat hit a ripple whilst turning and flipped over. No water entered the hull so all was good, except the switch now refused to work at all. The trial was ended and unfortunately will now have to wait until I return to my river in August.\ud83d\ude24","subject":"Genesis 9000","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBkNxbYmQdk"}
A short video of the first trial of my Genesis 9000 Offshore Power Boat. This is a boat to use whilst I build others.
The trial was seriously hampered by a faulty main switch. The insides must have fallen apart during transportation. I did manage to get an electrical contact to get around five minutes of the trial. The boat ran well but I will have to adjust the rudder to give more movement. Just after the video ended, the boat hit a ripple whilst turning and flipped over. No water entered the hull so all was good, except the switch now refused to work at all. The trial was ended and unfortunately will now have to wait until I return to my river in August.😤
I agree with the weight being shifted forward a iittle bit.Bow high in a catamaran will catch too much air causing the boat to flip.All it takes is a good gust of wind.Good speed on the boat.After trials you'll have a good fast boat.
I agree with the weight being shifted forward a iittle bit.Bow high in a catamaran will catch too much air causing the boat to flip.All it takes is a good gust of wind.Good speed on the boat.After trials you'll have a good fast boat.
I have brought the wiring home we with me. I will change the switch and take it back with me in August.
I must admit that I thought the stern was a bit low in the water. To evenly distribute the weight, I put in two batteries as suggested. I will try to move the batteries forward to change the centre of gravity.😊
I have brought the wiring home we with me. I will change the switch and take it back with me in August.
I must admit that I thought the stern was a bit low in the water. To evenly distribute the weight, I put in two batteries as suggested. I will try to move the batteries forward to change the centre of gravity.😊
More running in trials, burning fuses out, and complete radio outage and bumping the bank. However some progress made on levelling it out, full speed cannot be reached whilst trying to video by my self. 😎 The Captain "Dennis The Menace" is not a good omen, twice he's got in trouble, yesterday the cabin was flooded up to his waist.
{"text":"More running in trials, burning fuses out, and complete radio outage and bumping the bank. However some progress made on levelling it out, full speed cannot be reached whilst trying to video by my self. \ud83d\ude0e The Captain \"Dennis The Menace\" is not a good omen, twice he's got in trouble, yesterday the cabin was flooded up to his waist.","subject":"Huntsman \"John\"","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlEdwKwfmJs"}
More running in trials, burning fuses out, and complete radio outage and bumping the bank. However some progress made on levelling it out, full speed cannot be reached whilst trying to video by my self. 😎 The Captain "Dennis The Menace" is not a good omen, twice he's got in trouble, yesterday the cabin was flooded up to his waist.
I've at last done something with my mystery Orange hull, featured earlier, whilst in St Lucia last year I saw a launch used as diving support with almost identical shape called 'KIKA' so that's what it had to be!
Power from an old 600 Johnson type motor with 7.5v battery and 20A ESC, with prop & running gear from my oddments box. Tried her at Mangerton Mill last week, she goes well but needs a more powerful ESC as 15A fuses blow at 3/4 power, also veneer deck has started to bubble - so work in progress really!
Chris
{"text":"I've at last done something with my mystery Orange hull, featured earlier, whilst in St Lucia last year I saw a launch used as diving support with almost identical shape called 'KIKA' so that's what it had to be!\nPower from an old 600 Johnson type motor with 7.5v battery and 20A ESC, with prop & running gear from my oddments box. Tried her at Mangerton Mill last week, she goes well but needs a more powerful ESC as 15A fuses blow at 3/4 power, also veneer deck has started to bubble - so work in progress really!\n \nChris","subject":"Kika - ex mystery Orange Hull","media":[{"id":"1368397594","name":"1368397594.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1368397594/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1368397594/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1368397580","name":"1368397580.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1368397580/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1368397580/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
I've at last done something with my mystery Orange hull, featured earlier, whilst in St Lucia last year I saw a launch used as diving support with almost identical shape called 'KIKA' so that's what it had to be!
Power from an old 600 Johnson type motor with 7.5v battery and 20A ESC, with prop & running gear from my oddments box. Tried her at Mangerton Mill last week, she goes well but needs a more powerful ESC as 15A fuses blow at 3/4 power, also veneer deck has started to bubble - so work in progress really!
I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
{"text":"I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.\n \nThe end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.\n\nFor mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.\n\nThe wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.","subject":"Mast Lighting fine parallel wires for mast lights or radar","media":[{"id":"1364752800","name":"1364752800.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1364752800/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1364752800/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Mast Lighting fine parallel wires for mast lights or radar
I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
Ahoy
this model dont need any introduction because there are thousands upon thousands of these kits were produced and even being produce as I post this this build. I purchased this kit when it was first released in 1963. there was a discount store that sold anything from appliances to plastic models. I went in there one day to see what they have, there to my delight and surprise there was a stock table that must have had atleased a 100 or more of these kits they were sold for $11.95 but the only way the store could sells these they marked them down a little more then half price, the sale tag on the stock table and the kit was $ 4.95 with a steal of a deal I couldn,t refuse. I bought 4 of them for $ 20.00. the kit was a typical gimic model for that day it was designed and ran on 6 D cell flashlight batteries, opperating a cam gear box that opperated the 5 inch closed mount turrets torpedo tubes and the twin screws. Also in the kit you a choice of courses that could be set if desired useing a cam that worked off the gear box. 10 years ago I scuttled the gearbox and modernized it with up to date RC she runs on a 6 volt dumas electric motor with a gear reduxction turning two screws and speed control Boats
{"text":"Ahoy \r\n this model dont need any introduction because there are thousands upon thousands of these kits were produced and even being produce as I post this this build. I purchased this kit when it was first released in 1963. there was a discount store that sold anything from appliances to plastic models. I went in there one day to see what they have, there to my delight and surprise there was a stock table that must have had atleased a 100 or more of these kits they were sold for $11.95 but the only way the store could sells these they marked them down a little more then half price, the sale tag on the stock table and the kit was $ 4.95 with a steal of a deal I couldn,t refuse. I bought 4 of them for $ 20.00. the kit was a typical gimic model for that day it was designed and ran on 6 D cell flashlight batteries, opperating a cam gear box that opperated the 5 inch closed mount turrets torpedo tubes and the twin screws. Also in the kit you a choice of courses that could be set if desired useing a cam that worked off the gear box. 10 years ago I scuttled the gearbox and modernized it with up to date RC she runs on a 6 volt dumas electric motor with a gear reduxction turning two screws and speed control Boats","subject":"Lindberg Blue Devel Destroyer U.S.S. MELVIN","media":[{"id":"1316882679","name":"1316882679.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1316882679/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1316882679/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1316882680","name":"1316882680.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1316882680/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1316882680/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1316882681","name":"1316882681.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1316882681/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1316882681/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Ahoy
this model dont need any introduction because there are thousands upon thousands of these kits were produced and even being produce as I post this this build. I purchased this kit when it was first released in 1963. there was a discount store that sold anything from appliances to plastic models. I went in there one day to see what they have, there to my delight and surprise there was a stock table that must have had atleased a 100 or more of these kits they were sold for $11.95 but the only way the store could sells these they marked them down a little more then half price, the sale tag on the stock table and the kit was $ 4.95 with a steal of a deal I couldn,t refuse. I bought 4 of them for $ 20.00. the kit was a typical gimic model for that day it was designed and ran on 6 D cell flashlight batteries, opperating a cam gear box that opperated the 5 inch closed mount turrets torpedo tubes and the twin screws. Also in the kit you a choice of courses that could be set if desired useing a cam that worked off the gear box. 10 years ago I scuttled the gearbox and modernized it with up to date RC she runs on a 6 volt dumas electric motor with a gear reduxction turning two screws and speed control Boats
You say you bought 4? What happened to the other 3? I am always amazed at the deals available outside the UK. Perhaps if similar deals were available there would be more budding young modellers!
Please keep posting pictures of your models. it would be useful if you could also give size details as models to sail need to fit into our cars.
Dave
You say you bought 4? What happened to the other 3? I am always amazed at the deals available outside the UK. Perhaps if similar deals were available there would be more budding young modellers!
Please keep posting pictures of your models. it would be useful if you could also give size details as models to sail need to fit into our cars.
Dave
Ahoy Dave
Thank you for your reply I am honered. The other 3 were given away as Christmas presents. Deals of yesteryear are over with the price of plastic his 10 to 20 times higher then the price I paid back in that day. What once was a retail price of $11.95 is now $100.00 and going up.The details of the kit it is scaled in a odd scale of 1/225 giveing you a model length of 36 inch,s just under a meter. the kit came with a gearbox that opperated the turrets,torpedo tubes and turning the twin screws. in order to sail the selected course, there are 4 cams that ride off the gearbox circle, square figure eight, and straight . this was gimic model there were many in the 1950, through the 1960,s but much seriousness is applied to scale and RC these gimic models are now radio controlled. the insides are quite small to work with. But still large enought to modifiy it to RC opperation. get rid of the relic gearbox and 9.0 electric motor, you need to add a 6 volt motor and gear reduction box. speed controll and a new rudder linkage system. Still today the kit is still worth looking in to. The only modification I made as to the overal perspective of appearence is the Hull I am a retired navy man of 30 years I have a trained eye for destroyers I served on 4 of them. the kits hull from the bridge superstructure to the bow the camber is allwrong useing plastic surgury and sheet plastic that portion of the hull has to be raised up to the proper camber, I also added bilge keels the kit didn,t have them. all kits from the 1950,s throught the 60,s never paid that much attention to scale and detail. not much nit picken in that da neither.
Boats
Ahoy Dave
Thank you for your reply I am honered. The other 3 were given away as Christmas presents. Deals of yesteryear are over with the price of plastic his 10 to 20 times higher then the price I paid back in that day. What once was a retail price of $11.95 is now $100.00 and going up.The details of the kit it is scaled in a odd scale of 1/225 giveing you a model length of 36 inch,s just under a meter. the kit came with a gearbox that opperated the turrets,torpedo tubes and turning the twin screws. in order to sail the selected course, there are 4 cams that ride off the gearbox circle, square figure eight, and straight . this was gimic model there were many in the 1950, through the 1960,s but much seriousness is applied to scale and RC these gimic models are now radio controlled. the insides are quite small to work with. But still large enought to modifiy it to RC opperation. get rid of the relic gearbox and 9.0 electric motor, you need to add a 6 volt motor and gear reduction box. speed controll and a new rudder linkage system. Still today the kit is still worth looking in to. The only modification I made as to the overal perspective of appearence is the Hull I am a retired navy man of 30 years I have a trained eye for destroyers I served on 4 of them. the kits hull from the bridge superstructure to the bow the camber is allwrong useing plastic surgury and sheet plastic that portion of the hull has to be raised up to the proper camber, I also added bilge keels the kit didn,t have them. all kits from the 1950,s throught the 60,s never paid that much attention to scale and detail. not much nit picken in that da neither.
Boats
whch is real and which is the model ? Confused , looks like the real thing (and the plane flies ! !)
{"text":"whch is real and which is the model ? Confused , looks like the real thing (and the plane flies ! !)","subject":"Spot the real one!","media":[{"id":"1270819173","name":"1270819173.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1270819173/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1270819173/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Lesro Sportsman kit, wood sports fishing boat 33'' in length, weight about 8lb. MFA 850 on 12v (10 NiMHcells 3.5ah) MTroniks 40amp esc, X50 prop. Built by Ian Gardner.
March 2010. I am now using 12 cells and a Graupner speed controller. I added watercooling too and the boat goes noticeably faster- but melted a fuse holder on first outing so I need to upgrade some of the wiring. There was also a bit of prop aerating on turns so might reduce the prop size.
The last photo is with increased voltage.
{"text":"Lesro Sportsman kit, wood sports fishing boat 33'' in length, weight about 8lb. MFA 850 on 12v (10 NiMHcells 3.5ah) MTroniks 40amp esc, X50 prop. Built by Ian Gardner.\r\nMarch 2010. I am now using 12 cells and a Graupner speed controller. I added watercooling too and the boat goes noticeably faster- but melted a fuse holder on first outing so I need to upgrade some of the wiring. There was also a bit of prop aerating on turns so might reduce the prop size.\r\nThe last photo is with increased voltage.","subject":"Lesro Sportsman","media":[{"id":"1257072426","name":"1257072426.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072426/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072426/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1257072427","name":"1257072427.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072427/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072427/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1257072428","name":"1257072428.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072428/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072428/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1257072429","name":"1257072429.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072429/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1257072429/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Lesro Sportsman kit, wood sports fishing boat 33'' in length, weight about 8lb. MFA 850 on 12v (10 NiMHcells 3.5ah) MTroniks 40amp esc, X50 prop. Built by Ian Gardner.
March 2010. I am now using 12 cells and a Graupner speed controller. I added watercooling too and the boat goes noticeably faster- but melted a fuse holder on first outing so I need to upgrade some of the wiring. There was also a bit of prop aerating on turns so might reduce the prop size.
The last photo is with increased voltage.
Thanks to all those that made suggestions about making the Suction Hoses, here are my efforts. The boat looks OK now thought there is much to do still. I am using two Johnson drill motors in paralell with one 50 amp ESC & 20A fuses in each motor + supply lead, all running on 8.4V NiMhi. the current props are 40 X 21 three blade. The boat is fast enough but battery life is short and the battery is very hot after the end of the run. I water cooled the motors and ESC. I will try some smaller props and 7,2V to see if there is an Improvement.
{"text":"Thanks to all those that made suggestions about making the Suction Hoses, here are my efforts. The boat looks OK now thought there is much to do still. I am using two Johnson drill motors in paralell with one 50 amp ESC & 20A fuses in each motor + supply lead, all running on 8.4V NiMhi. the current props are 40 X 21 three blade. The boat is fast enough but battery life is short and the battery is very hot after the end of the run. I water cooled the motors and ESC. I will try some smaller props and 7,2V to see if there is an Improvement.","subject":"Fireboat & Suction (pick-up) Hoses","media":[{"id":"1252074545","name":"1252074545.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1252074545/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1252074545/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1252074546","name":"1252074546.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1252074546/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1252074546/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1252074547","name":"1252074547.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://model-boats.com/media/1252074547/l","thumbUrl":"https://model-boats.com/media/1252074547/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Thanks to all those that made suggestions about making the Suction Hoses, here are my efforts. The boat looks OK now thought there is much to do still. I am using two Johnson drill motors in paralell with one 50 amp ESC & 20A fuses in each motor + supply lead, all running on 8.4V NiMhi. the current props are 40 X 21 three blade. The boat is fast enough but battery life is short and the battery is very hot after the end of the run. I water cooled the motors and ESC. I will try some smaller props and 7,2V to see if there is an Improvement.
Thanks for your input.
Its starting to make sense now.
I bit the bullitt and bought a lipo battery and charger. I ended with a spectrum smart 2200mhz,3s, 11.1v,100c.i had a choice of a 30c but thought it may not be man enough for 3 motors so looked at the 50c, but was out of stock, so i ended with the 100c it was the same price as the 50c anyway. The charger was a spectrum smart type to. This monitors the battery and hopefully does everything automatically.
Once again thanks for your help and encouragement
Roger
You are learning well! A similar road to the one I travelled a couple of years ago.
Hard to see the fuse block on my Brave now, but here is one am assembling for my next project. Got my fuse blocks off Banggood, they offer both 4 and 6 fuse ones.
Used a 6 on the Brave as wanted a fuse per motor, currently using 30 A capacity. Should protect the 50 A ESCs. Bigger fuses and even re-settable ones can be fitted into the block if warranted.
The home made buss bar and battery connector are visible.
Hope this helps.
Rowen
100C should be more that adequate, mine is 30C. You should be able to drive a welder with it too!