Been a while (seems like yesterday) hope everyone's been well, but had important work to catch up on (house, health, cars etc) which delayed progress. Finally got the urge to throw the top side sheets on, (too hot to work outside at the moment) using my jig as a platform to keep everything level. When I get a bit more time, I'll be able to glass the hull, and/or start fitting the motor/cable drive etc.
JB
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Been a while (seems like yesterday) hope everyone's been well, but had important work to catch up on (house, health, cars etc) which delayed progress. Finally got the urge to throw the top side sheets on, (too hot to work outside at the moment) using my jig as a platform to keep everything level. When I get a bit more time, I'll be able to glass the hull, and/or start fitting the motor/cable drive etc.
It was interesting reading back through all the posts as I'd forgotten you're increasing the size of a Stiletto and your wonderful jig.
I'd hoped to have started building mine by now but as you say life throws up other things and it will still be sometime before I get back into building again rather than just the bits and pieces I have been doing.
Your build does get the enthusiasm kick-started again though.
A bit more progress with the modified cabin being started, and deck ply cut out. Cabin is a bit different to the original, further forward and an inch longer, with larger sharper windows to modernize it a bit. Still more to go on it yet. I usually start with the basic plan for a model, then 'freestyle' it after that and make it my own version.
JB
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A bit more progress with the modified cabin being started, and deck ply cut out. Cabin is a bit different to the original, further forward and an inch longer, with larger sharper windows to modernize it a bit. Still more to go on it yet. I usually start with the basic plan for a model, then 'freestyle' it after that and make it my own version.
That's what myself and Zooma are doing. We like the hull but felt the superstructure needed modernising. I've gone even further for my water-jet project as it's a sports boat version.
Deck cutouts done and cabin roof side overhangs sanded off (didn't like them,- something to break). Holes at bottom of front screen filled in as well. Inwales etc to be done yet in the hull for the deck supports.
JB
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Deck cutouts done and cabin roof side overhangs sanded off (didn't like them,- something to break). Holes at bottom of front screen filled in as well. Inwales etc to be done yet in the hull for the deck supports.
Inwales and other framing for deck support done, as well as front compartment floor supports. Floor would not fit through the bulkhead so was made foldable so it can be removed if necessary.
JB
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Inwales and other framing for deck support done, as well as front compartment floor supports. Floor would not fit through the bulkhead so was made foldable so it can be removed if necessary.
A bit more progress, - was busy with displaying my racing dinghy in the Auckland wooden boat festival so haven't made much progress. Marked the deck, made the rudder, and last night glassed the hull. Thought it was an idea to glass the hull now, as the weather is getting cooler and rain finally appearing after months of nothing.
JB
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A bit more progress, - was busy with displaying my racing dinghy in the Auckland wooden boat festival so haven't made much progress. Marked the deck, made the rudder, and last night glassed the hull. Thought it was an idea to glass the hull now, as the weather is getting cooler and rain finally appearing after months of nothing.
Warm last night, (10.30pm) so decided it was time to throw another heavy coat of resin on, (after some heavy duty sanding of the initial coat rolled through the cloth). levelled off quite well, so I'll give it a few days to set up properly, de-wax again, then attack it with the orbital sander and see how it comes up.
JB
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Warm last night, (10.30pm) so decided it was time to throw another heavy coat of resin on, (after some heavy duty sanding of the initial coat rolled through the cloth). levelled off quite well, so I'll give it a few days to set up properly, de-wax again, then attack it with the orbital sander and see how it comes up.
A bit more done now some necessary house maintenance has been completed. Not a lot done but I've been doing some RC plane maintenance as well. Glassed the cabin tops with a fine cloth and polyester resin, rubbed a few coats of varnish stain on the deck, cut glass off the shaft slot and finished lining up the shaft and screwed the motor mount in place. Temporarily trial fitting bits and pieces for balance, and will be making floors to mount everything on later.
Deck will be glued down when everything inside is sorted. Waiting for it to stop raining so I can put the hull on the drill press and drill the rudder tube hole straight. Winter now, so should be getting on with it a bit more.
JB
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A bit more done now some necessary house maintenance has been completed. Not a lot done but I've been doing some RC plane maintenance as well. Glassed the cabin tops with a fine cloth and polyester resin, rubbed a few coats of varnish stain on the deck, cut glass off the shaft slot and finished lining up the shaft and screwed the motor mount in place. Temporarily trial fitting bits and pieces for balance, and will be making floors to mount everything on later.
Deck will be glued down when everything inside is sorted. Waiting for it to stop raining so I can put the hull on the drill press and drill the rudder tube hole straight. Winter now, so should be getting on with it a bit more.
JB, thanks for the info on your prop "shaft". I didn't know it was cable drive. I never saw a boat using this before and I am just curious as to how it holds up under use as you pointed out the potential problem of cable unwinding. Are cables available with different directions of winding in case of a 2 prop boat? Keep use updated. Len
Hi JB!
Have you fitted a flexible shaft to your model? How does the whole thing behave in general? Do you have to oil them a lot?
Questions upon questions . . . 😂😂😂😂
questioning greetings
Michel-C.
Ps: 🙈🙈🙈 oops sorry, didn't read your comments below
Knocked up a stand for the boat today using ancient no nails technology (unless you call dowels nails) A bit more fun to do and no holes to fill. Still have some more cutouts to sort for the rudder when it's installed and some padding and staining. Finished with the building jig, so now just needed to have something smaller to sit the boat upright on to work on the inside bits. It will have a stop on the back to go against the transom so the boat will sit down in the correct place every time, and maybe some adjustable side clamps to keep the boat in place.
JB
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Knocked up a stand for the boat today using ancient no nails technology (unless you call dowels nails) A bit more fun to do and no holes to fill. Still have some more cutouts to sort for the rudder when it's installed and some padding and staining. Finished with the building jig, so now just needed to have something smaller to sit the boat upright on to work on the inside bits. It will have a stop on the back to go against the transom so the boat will sit down in the correct place every time, and maybe some adjustable side clamps to keep the boat in place.
Hi Alessandro, Re is the propeller drive axis slightly curved?
the prop drive is a cable drive, mainly used in racing boats from the 70s onwards as a means of getting parallel thrust which is optimal for efficiency. These days fast boats mainly use a fixed shaft extension( stinger drive) from the transom, with a rudder (or rudders) behind or beside it similar to a surface drive. The cable drive has a left or right hand wound cable like a car speedometer and is usually only run in the direction of the windings of the cable (ie trying to tighten the windings).
Not really suited for reverse unless used slowly, as the cable can be unwound under force and damaged. Beauty of them is, you can bend the outer brass tube with gentle curves to align the drive. The motor has a collet which clamps the cable. Very simple to remove for greasing, and to a certain degree self aligning, being flexible.
Hi Len, re Are cables available with different directions of winding in case of a 2 prop boat?
You can buy them in left or right hand winds depending on your motor, For IC use they were usually always right hand wound - ie IC engines almost always ran anti clockwise (from the front) Now with electrics, they can run either way hence the availability of left and right winds. For circuit racing, boats might need the prop rotating in a particular direction for stability in turns.
They are normally used for driving in one direction, (no need for a F/R ESC) but if you are gentle can be used on low speed in reverse (maybe cut the end point right back in reverse) The one I have was from Ali Express, so I'll see how it holds up. A bit of an experiment using it with the Stiletto, but I'm sure it's been done in a Stilettos in the 70s/80s with IC engines in them.
Boat pics are from a boat I had around 1979,- it had an OS 45 FSR with a cable drive in a 40" glass Prather hull.
Stand is finished now, nothing fancy, just serviceable. It has a backstop and slotted side clamps now which secure the model for transport. The clamps work well and will also be handy for holding the boat still while working in the innards. Luckily didn't need any cutouts for the rudder, and it all just fits like I planned it😉
JB
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Stand is finished now, nothing fancy, just serviceable. It has a backstop and slotted side clamps now which secure the model for transport. The clamps work well and will also be handy for holding the boat still while working in the innards. Luckily didn't need any cutouts for the rudder, and it all just fits like I planned it😉
Thanks so much for the explanation Jbkiwi.
I understood everything.
I had imagined that was the reason.
I prefer to have a perfectly straight axis and play on its inclination to make it parallel (or as less inclined as possible) to the line of movement.
But, thanks to you, I learned a new RC modeling method and I also thank you for this.
Due to the nasty weather lately, I've been forced indoors, so have managed a bit more progress in the last 2 days. I've sanded the glass on the hull and cabin tops, painted a sealer on the cabin, made a rudder servo tray, a central radio(and other bits) tray, a battery tray and a front compartment tray.
The center and front tray are 'hinged' to fit through the bulkheads etc, then folded out to fit. The front tray is secured with a 'cam' The servo tray fits in through the bulkhead then is turned clockwise to fit in place, (with only 1mm clearance- hence opposite corners angled). I prefer not to glue trays in, and screw them in wherever possible, in case mods or repairs are required later. Lots more to do yet.
JB
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Due to the nasty weather lately, I've been forced indoors, so have managed a bit more progress in the last 2 days. I've sanded the glass on the hull and cabin tops, painted a sealer on the cabin, made a rudder servo tray, a central radio(and other bits) tray, a battery tray and a front compartment tray.
The center and front tray are 'hinged' to fit through the bulkheads etc, then folded out to fit. The front tray is secured with a 'cam' The servo tray fits in through the bulkhead then is turned clockwise to fit in place, (with only 1mm clearance- hence opposite corners angled). I prefer not to glue trays in, and screw them in wherever possible, in case mods or repairs are required later. Lots more to do yet.
When I get all the templates drawn-up I will also cut a spare set of parts for Will (madwelshman) so that he can bung one together too! 👍
I'd hoped to have started building mine by now but as you say life throws up other things and it will still be sometime before I get back into building again rather than just the bits and pieces I have been doing.
Your build does get the enthusiasm kick-started again though.
Chris