|||
Current Website Support
83
Contributors
21
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ10
ยฃ15
ยฃ25
ยฃ50
Subscribe for your gold medal ๐Ÿ…
ยฃ1
ยฃ3
ยฃ5
ยฃ10
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    27

















    Followers
    Gaff Rigged Pilot Cutter
    by Graham93 ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Captain)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










    Click To
    Follow
    34 Posts 297 Comments 0 Photos 335 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    The Gaff rests against the mast with Gaff jaws or a Gaff saddle to hold it in place. The first photo is from John Leather's book "Gaff Rig" which I have found invaluable during this build.

    I decided to opt for a Gaff saddle made in brass (what else!).The separate components for the saddle were cut from various thicknesses of brass sheet and then silver soldered together. Once cleaned up, the inside face of the saddle was lined with leather to avoid damage to the mast.

    The socket to fit the end of the Gaff spar was made by rolling a strip of 0.5mm brass sheet into a tube and soldering the joint. Masking tape was then used to mark the cutting lines to cut away the surplus material.

    A strip of brass was cut and drilled to form the attachment point for the throat halliard and the mainsail.

    Finally several hardwood balls were turned to thread on to the parrel line. These reduce friction when the Gaff is hoisted into position.

    (Has anyone spotted the (not so) deliberate mistake?
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 31 Views
    9
    11
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    2 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks Martin,

    Yes the 'rigging' is temporary. I'm trying to make the blocks now, but struggling to make them small enough.

    I'll probably leave the brasswork to weather. It isn't usually polished brass on full sized Cutters. The trouble with lacquer is that it tends to fail/flake eventually and then looks worse than it would being left untreated.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 12 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    2 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Doug,

    Yes, well spotted. "The socket at the end of the gaff spar is fitted top to bottom instead of at the sides" However, the mistake wasn't that I soldered the end fitting on 90ยฐ out. The end fitting was soldered on before I cut the tapers into the tube. You can see that in the photo with the masking tape. The mistake was the application of the masking tape and subsequent cutting. I should have followed the 'measure twice, cut once' advice we all know.

    I did consider trying to resolder the end fitting, but decided it was too risky.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 12 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    2 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hammer, Martin,

    I could attempt to make a working roller reef mechanism, but there would have to be other changes to the boom to accommodate it. The way the main sheet attaches to the boom with this model is not compatible with a roller reefing arrangement.

    Doesn't stop me thinking about how I would go about it though ๐Ÿ˜€

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 12 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    2 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi JB,

    "You're getting pretty good at this brass-work now Graham"

    Thanks, 'practice makes perfect' and I still need a lot of practice๐Ÿ˜‰. The scrap bin is filling up with the attempts that didn't work.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 12 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Nicely made, as usual Graham ๐Ÿ‘
    "the (not so) deliberate mistake?"
    I think the socket at the end of the gaff spar is fitted top to bottom instead of at the sides; i.e. the fitting on the end was soldered on 90ยฐ out!!? ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Ooops!
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 21 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Graham,

    Lovely work, I cannot see any glaring mistakes to my un trained eye it all looks great, prey educate us on this gaff ( pun intended)

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 22 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by hammer ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Sure he could
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 23 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    You're getting pretty good at this brass-work now Graham, very nice! (also think Martin is correct๐Ÿ˜)

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 27 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hammer,
    Your post is like a red rag to a bull.LOL!!
    That will play on Graham's mind now, he might lock himself away again and make a working version LOL!

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 33 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by hammer ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Flag
    View All
    I am sure you could make the reefing gear if I can.
    Mine doesnโ€™t work, to reef I remove from the upright, roll up & reconnect. Held in by 10BA screw.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 29 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gaff saddle
    3 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Great work as usual Graham.

    I am assuming the rigging is temporary until you have made the blocks.

    Do you plan on coating all the Brass work with lacquer ?

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 35 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Gooseneck
    5 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    Continuing with the construction of the mast, a gooseneck fitting is required to attach the boom to the mast. There are many different designs for these fittings, but I decided to model the design shown in the first photo (without the roller reefing, which I think might just be a step too far!)

    To make the central pivot the ends of a length of brass rod were turned down to form the pivots. The central section of the rod was then sawn, drilled and filed to produce the finished pivot. The second, composite, photo shows the steps along the way.

    This central pivot is attached to the mast with two band clamps. The various pieces were cut and formed from brass strip. Once all the pieces were prepared, they were held together with temporary wires and then silver soldered.

    All the pieces were then cleaned up and a trial assembly made on a length of dowel. The two mast band clamps are not quite identical but I don't think anyone will notice except me (and you now I have pointed it out ๐Ÿ™„)

    Finally, a couple of M2 brass bolts were made for the clamps and the complete assembly was fitted onto the mast. Strips of thin leather under the band clamps ensure a secure fit to the mast. The final photo is to give you an idea of the scale
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 40 Views
    6
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gooseneck
    3 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks Michael, JB,

    More brasswork to come...

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 31 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gooseneck
    4 days ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    A goose would be proud to have a neck like that Graham๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘excellent job.

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 33 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gooseneck
    5 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Once again Graham, a beautiful piece of brass work
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 37 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gooseneck
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    That is true Graham,
    I practice getting old every day LOL!!

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 39 Views
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gooseneck
    5 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Martin,

    I have to admit, it is getting harder to see what I'm doing almost day after day. As a dear 92 year old friend of mine often says "There's nowt to gettin old!" ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 39 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gooseneck
    5 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Awesome work Graham.
    I don't know how you manage such fantastic small detail.

    Keep it coming i love it.

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 39 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ“ Mast
    7 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    The mast is made from a 1220mm length of 16 x16 mm European redwood. The first stage was to taper the bottom 120mm down to 12 x 12mm square and the top 1000mm to 10mm square. The four corners were then planed off to produce a tapered octagonal shape. Finally the mast was sanded to remove all the corners to produce a (roughly) circular cross section.

    There are several fittings needed near the top of the mast for attaching the rigging. The first to be tackled was the Crane. This provides an attachment point for the Gaff halyard block and holds the block away from the mast. The plan suggests the Crane is made from a cotter pin, but I decided to cut one from brass. Two brass pins, silver soldered to the Crane were used to attach it to the mast using epoxy. At the same height on the mast, two wooden cheeks were added for the Shrouds to rest on.

    Opposite the Crane, an brass eye was added to attach the Stay Sail block. This was also made from brass and threaded to ensure a secure fix into the mast. The hole in the mast was filled with CA and the eye quickly screwed in before the glue set.

    Further up the mast, two attachment points are needed for the Peak Halyard and the Jib Halyard. These were made as mast bands from a strip of brass formed into a ring and silver soldered. Attachment eyes were added before the fittings were cleaned and polished. They were then fixed in position with brass pins.

    At the top of the mast, fittings were added for the Pennant. The Pennant was made from orange ripstop nylon mounted onto a stainless steel wire. It slides through a brass eye at the top of the mast and down into a wooden block below.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 51 Views
    9
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast
    6 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Wow, wow, and wow,

    What a fantastic job you have done Graham.
    She has really come on in leaps and bounds.
    Your skills are truly amazing.

    Like the rest of the members i can't wait to see her on the water.
    Such a shame to get her wet though LOL!!

    Martin555.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 44 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast
    6 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks Mike,

    I promise I won't show any more photos of the plane in this blog๐Ÿ˜‰ (I think I've finished all the woodwork ๐Ÿ˜Š)

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 44 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast
    6 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Doug,

    Thanks. It's not intended for a museum. I want to get it wet. โ›ต It's going to be a while yet though before I can book the crew for sea trials.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 44 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast
    7 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Graham I wish you'd stop tempting me with pictures of that plane that's not for sale!
    But the brass bits are great, well executed.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 50 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast
    7 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    I'll second that JB ๐Ÿ‘
    Inspiring museum grade 'stuff' Graham ๐Ÿ˜€
    Waiting impatiently for the Sea Trials!!
    With Ben puffing his pipe at the tiller ๐Ÿ˜
    All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 51 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mast
    7 days ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Your extra detailing of the fittings over the simple plan versions, really makes all the difference I think Graham๐Ÿ‘

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 49 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ“ Painting the Hull
    10 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    I have been using photos of Luke Powell's Cutter 'Tallulah' for many of the details I've added to the model. The first photo shows Tallulah.

    Before painting the hull, there were a couple more details to add. An anchor point is needed on the stem to attach the Bobstay which runs up to the forward end of the bowsprit. A paper template was made and glued to brass sheet. It was then cut out, bent to shape and a brass loop soldered in position as the attachment point for the Bobstay. The completed fitting was epoxied to the stem with brass rivets through the stem to make it secure.

    A distinctive feature which can be seen in the photo of Tallulah is the decoration around the gunwale fairleads either side of the stem. The detail from the photo was enlarged to the appropriate size and a print was glued to a double thickness of 0.8mm brass sheet. The double thickness was formed by gluing two pieces of sheet together with epoxy. The shape was then cut out using a piercing saw thus ensuring that two identical trims were being produced. Once the shape had been cut out, the brass was heated with a blowtorch to soften the epoxy and separate the two pieces which were then cleaned up and trial fitted on the hull.

    The hull was first painted with brush applied grey primer. The waterline was marked using a pencil taped to a carpenter's square. Crude but effective. Below the waterline, the hull was then painted with brush applied red primer. Next the gunwales were masked and painted with a Navy Blue rattle can. Finally the remainder of the hull, between the gunwales and the waterline was masked and painted white, again using a rattle can. Eventually, I will be giving the entire hull a coat or two of lacquer.

    Having completed the painting of the hull, it feels like I have made some progress ๐Ÿ‘. Only the mast, spars, rigging, sails and keel to complete. Doesn't sound much if you say it quickly!๐Ÿค”
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 66 Views
    10
    11
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks Doug,

    Still pondering what to do about an animated helmsman ๐Ÿค”

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 57 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Yet another Masterpiece Graham ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    How many animated crew will she carry?
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 60 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Hammer,

    Yes, this model has a keel and lead bulb. As I pointed out early on in this blog, the hull is not an accurate model of full scale practice. Below the waterline, it has a hard chine and a keel. The rudder is also nothing like full size practice. Iโ€™m simply following the plans I bought as I know the design works and I donโ€™t have the experience to start changing fundamentals like the hull shape.

    Above the waterline is where Iโ€™m having some fun trying to make sure it represents something like a real cutter.

    As Rob just stated - โ€œmodellers licenceโ€ ๐Ÿ˜

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 60 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by hammer ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Flag
    You mentioned a keel? Both my pilot cutters sail with internal ballast only. With adjustment to the sails can handle almost any wind.. I say that because I once sailed in a official force 9.. it just ran before the wind right across the lake. Couldnโ€™t come back headed at 90% to wind but had about 60% leeway.. (thatโ€™s only an estimate.). Right back in to the bank ,I had a walk๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 60 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Graham.
    Now that you point it out I can see the difference. It's just a 'mirror image' and 'modellers licence' can readily allow that ๐Ÿ˜‰.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 61 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks everyone for the โ€˜likesโ€™ and the comments. ๐Ÿ‘ Makes it worth all the effort editing the photos and posting.

    Rob, Mike, it does look superficially like the Luke Powell cutter, which is the intention, but have you noticed that the bowsprit is on the starboard side of the stem on the model, but on the port side on the full sized cutter? I donโ€™t know if full sized cutters were all built the same, or if they varied as to which side of the stem the bowsprit was fitted.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 60 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by GaryLC ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
    Flag
    Absolutely awesome, incredible workmanship, and a fantastic-looking model into the bargain. Regards Gary.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 61 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    9 days ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Magnificent work Graham,

    I cannot really add anything to the previous comments.

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 62 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    10 days ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Had an idea it was going to look this good painted, and I was right,- looks brilliant Graham !

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 65 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    10 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Graham, once again a nice piece of both brass work and painting, its now looking really good and as Rob says hard to tell the model from the real thing.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 67 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Hull
    10 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    A very impressive paint finish Graham and the brass detailing around the gunwale fairleads really finishes it off.
    It's now quite difficult to differentiate between the real boat in pic one and your own model ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 67 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ Gunwale Capping
    18 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    As anticipated by jbkiwi ๐Ÿ‘, the next task is to add a mahogany capping to the gunwale.

    To accommodate the length and curvature of the gunwales, the capping along each side has to be made up of three pieces. This is the same approach a I took with my Bionic Bill rowboat last year. Lengths of hardboard were held in position along the gunwales and scribed on the underside against the rubbing strip which had been fitted earlier in the build. The hardboard was then cut along the line giving an accurate curved template for the outside shape of the gunwales. Dividers, set to the desired width of the capping strip, were then used to scribe the inner edge of the templates. Once the templates were cut to the correct width and curvature, scarf joints were marked and cut on the ends.

    With the templates complete, the outlines were transferred onto lengths of 25mm x 5mm mahogany and the shapes cut out using a bansdaw.

    A hardboard template was also produced for the transom capping piece. This was used to mark out a wider piece of mahogany which was also cut on the bandsaw. All the capping strips were then glued and pinned in place using brass pins which were punched below the surface. The holes were filled with Brummer stopping. Fitting the transom piece proved to be a challenge owing to the complex shape It took many trial fittings before I was happy with the final fit.

    Holes had to be cut through the capping strips on either side to allow the chainplates to pass through.

    Two jib sheets run through blocks attached to the gunwale capping on each side of the hull. I found a photo of such a setup on a full size cutter and used it as a guide to make mounting eyes for the blocks. A piece of circuit board was used as a template for drilling the holes in the base plates. The eyes were bent from 2mm brass rod. I was not happy with the result, as it was difficult to bend the rod (despite it being annealed several times) and the eyes did not sit well on the mounting plates. An alternative approach was taken to making another set of eyes using two pieces of brass. One was bent into a loop and the other piece silver soldered to it. This gave a more consistent result which was a much better fit to the mounting plate.

    The completed mounting eyes were fitted to the gunwale capping. They fit through a hole in the capping and screw into a small threaded brass angle plate which in turn is soldered to a rivet passing through the side of the gunwale rubbing strip. Four brass pins attach the mounting plate to the mahogany capping strip. More for show than for security.

    Finally, the mahogany was given a first coat of yacht varnish.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 71 Views
    11
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gunwale Capping
    17 days ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Graham.
    I love the precision of your work and it was definitely worth re-making the brass eyes...so much better the second time๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 72 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gunwale Capping
    17 days ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Caps look great and the pad eye plates do look much better than the plain eyes.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 69 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gunwale Capping
    17 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks Michael, Stephen,

    The brass work was a challenge. Frustrating having to do it twice, but got there in the end.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 70 Views
    1
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gunwale Capping
    17 days ago by stevedownunder ( Midshipman)
    Flag
    Hi Graham,

    Beautiful work, scarph joints and lovey brass work. ๐Ÿ‘

    Cheers,
    Stephen.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 69 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Gunwale Capping
    18 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    A lovely piece of woodworking and I particularly like the brass work, persistence always pays off
    great job.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 73 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ Timberheads
    29 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    With the deck glued in place, time to fit the timberheads.

    The edge of the deck was masked with tape and then a 'washer' used to mark a constant width from the gunwale. The masking tape was then trimmed back to the marked line with a sharp scalpel. Doing it this way ensures a constant width margin around the deck.

    To ensure that there will be no leaks, the seam between the deck and gunwale was sealed with 'Sticks like' white filler and adhesive. Individual timberheads were then cut and glued equally spaced along the gunwales. At the stern, a couple of shaped timberheads were fitted, the masking tape having first been cut away underneath them.

    Four scuppers were cut through the gunwales on either side of the hull, level with the deck to drain any water that comes over the sides when the boat is heeled over.

    Four fairleads (two either side) were added to the gunwales for rigging cords to pass through from the bowsprit. These fairleads were made from brass tube, cut on an angle with a copper wire hoop soldered on and shaped to give a flared end.

    The gunwales and timberheads were then painted and the masking tape removed before the paint hardened. There were a couple of places where the paint had crept under the tape, but as this was not yet hard, it was easily removed by careful scraping with a knife.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 92 Views
    8
    5
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Timberheads
    28 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    JB,

    You know me too well ๐Ÿ˜€ Yes, the plan is to add a mahogany guwale capping. That's the next task. Just waiting for the paint to harden fully first. Getting on with some other detailed fittings in the interim which will be revealed later ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 86 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Timberheads
    28 days ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Looking better every time! Are you going to fit a gunwale capping or leave them as they are? - I'm sort of expecting a nice mahogany or teak rail Graham๐Ÿ˜.

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 85 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Timberheads
    28 days ago by philcaretaker ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    `Am getting excited for you Graham !!โ›ต๐Ÿ˜›๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 89 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Timberheads
    29 days ago by Black Shoe ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
    Flag
    I like the washer idea as well! Beats a compass by a long stretch!

    Beautiful build Graham!
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 88 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Timberheads
    29 days ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Great job Graham, The humble washer, I think I use washers more for other things than I do under a nut.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 90 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ“ Rigging the Winches
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    It is much easier to rig the two winch servos before the deck is fixed in position.

    Each servo has a closed loop of cord running round the sheaves at the other end of the hull. The sheet for the main sail attaches to one of these loops and then passes through three ceramic fishing rod eyes before going up through the fairlead in the deck to the main sail. I've used a temporary blue string to test out the routing and to ensure it runs smoothly.

    A pair of sheets for each of the foresails attach to either side of the other closed loop. This allows control of the foresails on either tack, one sheet being pulled in as the other is let out. These sheets run through the guides towards the stern of the hull before passing through the previously installed fairleads in the deck.

    The cord used for the closed loops on each servo is 1mm Dynema 12 strand braided. This does nor stretch or twist so is ideal for the purpose. However, as the cord is wound from one end to the other on the servo drum, the loop does slacken due to the effective change in diameter of the drum caused by the overlapping turns. To overcome this, and avoid the risk of the cord coming off the sheaves, a spring tensioner was added to each loop. These were made from a short spring with two pieces of stainless steel wire bent and threaded through the spring.

    With this rigging in place and tested the deck, which has been varnished, was glued into position with two part epoxy adhesive. The hatches give good access to the installed servos and rigging. It will be possible to remove and replace all the rigging below deck through the hatches (hopefully that won't be necessary ๐Ÿคž).
    Winches
    โ–ถ๏ธ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 101 Views
    10
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging the Winches
    30 days ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Thanks Colin, glad you are enjoying the build.

    This is my second yacht build, and my first significant one. The first was a โ€˜Wee Nipโ€™ built from a kit. That was much simpler than this as it only has one sail, and one line to the winch servo.

    Iโ€™m learning as I go along with this build, and itโ€™s a steep learning curve! If you are learning from me, that must be a bit like โ€˜the blind leading the blindโ€™ ๐Ÿ˜‚

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 92 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging the Winches
    1 month ago by Colin H ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I'm loving this build Graham, and hopefully learning along the way as I am trying to get my brain to understand how to repair my latest acquisition which has some disconnected lines and a broken one.
    So keep it coming and I may learn to sail a sailing boat instead of my usual motorised boats.
    Cheers Colin.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 96 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging the Winches
    1 month ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Graham.
    Really excellent work, clearly a LOT of planning has gone into the rigging 'mechanics'.
    The spring tensioners are a brilliant idea,
    Keep up the great work ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 96 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging the Winches
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    That's a really ingenious system, I can't wait to see it in operation, and very well executed.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 93 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging the Winches
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    JB,

    The spring tensioner design came from BlackShoeโ€™s Phantom Tug build. Lots of great tips and ideas on this site ๐Ÿ‘

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 100 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging the Winches
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    That looks excellent Graham, should work really well. Those tensioners are are a good idea, (my old Optimist only had one winch and long rubber bands everywhere for the tension, always having to replace them due to perishing.) Might buy one of those winches later and change mine
    to that continuous loop system, looks a lot better. Good that everything's accessible in your boat, and you have plenty of room to play with, (the advantage of being able to plan things to suit, as against factory made kits with special fittings, which are hard to change once assembled)

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 100 Views
    5
    ๐Ÿ“ Mounting the Winch servos
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    Having sealed the inside of the hull with two part epoxy, it was given a couple of coats of white Hammerite to ensure that there will be no water damage, and to make it easier to see inside the hull once the deck is fitted.

    There are two winch servos to be installed. One will control the main sail and the other will control the stay sail and jibs. Mounting rails were made from european redwood. These are bolted in position onto the support blocks that were attached to the bulkheads early in the build. The servo mounting plates, cut from 3mm ply bolt onto the mounting rails through elongated holes that allow for some adjustment of the servo positions.

    Nylon sheeves fitted with ball bearings are bolted to the mounting rails. There are two for each servo. These will be used for the rigging cords. Thread locking compound was used on the nuts. Adjacent to the forward pair of sheeves, a ceramic fishing rod eye is attached to the mounting rail. This will be used to assist with routing of the main sheet.

    Two pairs of copper fairleads were made with flared ends as described in an earlier post. These were soldered to copper plates which were then painted and attached adjacent to the rear pair of sheeves. These will help with routing of the sheets for the stay sail and jibs.

    Next time - starting the rigging....
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 103 Views
    7
    6
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mounting the Winch servos
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    We use to have a great range of native and exotic timbers here, but the greens have put paid to a lot of that๐Ÿ˜  now you have to go to a specialist importer and leave your kidney at the door

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 103 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mounting the Winch servos
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi JB,

    European redwood is generally available from timber merchants over here. It is also known as Scots pine and generally has a fine, straight grain which makes it ideal for making small parts. The other generally available timber is โ€˜whitewoodโ€™ which is spruce and tends to have a more variable grain structure.

    The Hamerite is smooth white. I didnโ€™t think the โ€˜hammeredโ€™ version would look right.

    Hope to be able to post the winch set-up later today or tomorrow depending on how I get on with it.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 103 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mounting the Winch servos
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    European Redwood ! ooh err, getting a bit posh now Graham๐Ÿ˜‚ Nice bit of fitting. Going to be interesting to see where all the 'string' goes๐Ÿ˜ I'll be keeping an eye on your winch set-up to see if it will fit in my Optimist, ( I know you'll get it running right). Like the Hammerite, - is it plain or the speckled metallic type ? That should seal nicely and stick forever.

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 101 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mounting the Winch servos
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    Hi Phil,

    Doubt it will be finished by Easter. Thatโ€™s only 3 weeks away! More likely to be May, or even June ๐Ÿ˜Œ There will be more incentive once we can sail again๐Ÿ‘

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 103 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mounting the Winch servos
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    I found painting the inside of the hull with a light colour on my Crash Tender paid off later when trying to see amongst the many bits and pieces to see what's where. I was also impressed with the quality of the paperwork.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 102 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Mounting the Winch servos
    1 month ago by philcaretaker ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Looking good Graham - Easter Launch ??????โ›ต๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 103 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ“ Deadeyes
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    I found a length of timber to make the deadeyes from among the bits and pieces I got from Dad. I think it is probably Ebony, based on the colour and grain. Eight deadeyes are needed to link the shrouds to the Chainplates.

    The timber was turned to a diameter of 16mm and then grooved using the parting tool to form the deadeyes with a space between each for separation. I made 9 in all, in case one ended up vanishing on the workshop floor with all the other bits I've lost ๐Ÿ™„ Four of the deadeyes have a wide groove for the fixing strap, and four have a narrow groove for the bottom end of the shroud.

    The deadeyes were sawn from the turned strip and a simple jig was used to drill the three eyes in each one. Each deadeye was positioned in turn in the hole in the wooden jig and the aluminium plate placed over it. The plate locates on two nails. Once in position, the eye holes were drilled in the deadeye using the holes in the plate to fix the positions.

    An abrasive bit in the Dremel was used to chamfer each of the eye holes where the lanyard will pass through. The lanyard will be black elastic cord which I am hoping will apply enough tension to keep the shrouds taught.

    The four lower deadeyes need a metal strap which fits in the groove around the circumference and attaches to the top of the chainplate. An outline for the strap was drawn on the computer and then printed out four times onto a sticky label. The label was stuck onto to a length of brass and the strap was then cut out with the piercing saw. After tempering, the straps were bent to shape around the deadeyes.

    The last photo shows one of the deadeyes fitted in position. It is attached to the chainplate with a 'R' clip. It should be bolted in place but the 'R' clip is a compromise to make it easier to rig the boat at the lakeside. I don't think it will be too noticeable.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 109 Views
    10
    10
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Graham.
    Thanks for the pic, I can now 're-calibrate' my perception of the scale of your magnificent boat ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 109 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    Doug,

    I believe they are called 'deadeyes' as the three holes looked like the holes in a sheep's skull.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 106 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    Thanks everyone for the comments ๐Ÿ‘

    Rob, here's a photo to give you a scale reference.

    Graham93
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 106 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Brilliant job Graham, - turning into a bit of a museum piece with all that fancy brass. Watch out it doesn't end up like the Vasa, LOL. Clever jig BTW

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 106 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Hammer,
    "I drilled holes by packing of one jaw method. "
    Is that like a hamster with tooth ache or like when the dentist stuffs one side with cotton rolls?
    "Mon't muck at meef!" ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 108 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    "PS nice little jig for drilling "
    Tush tush, always jigging about these guys!
    Can't keep their feet still ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 108 Views
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    "there's always something very....'Edvard Munch' about deadeyes ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿคฃ."
    Absolutely Rob ๐Ÿ‘, SCREAMINGLY different! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTNjaICaCyE
    The resemblance struck me as well! ๐Ÿ˜‰
    But I do like the four in the sweet little silver bonnets!
    Never mind us Graham ๐Ÿ˜‰ Great work ๐Ÿ‘
    You're humiliating us lesser mortals once again ๐Ÿ˜
    ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜Ž
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTNjaICaCyE
    ๐Ÿ”—
    โ–ถ๏ธ
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 108 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by mturpin013 ( Rear Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice work Graham, You've really made a first class job of the dead eyes with attention to detail, most people would have used a straight piece of brass but taking the time to produce the round ends and filing the holes to give the correct exit and entry angles for the "rope" really finishes the piece to a high standard.
    PS nice little jig for drilling
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 107 Views
    3
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by hammer ( Sub-Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Usual high standard Graham well done. I drilled holes by packing of one jaw method.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 108 Views
    2
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Deadeyes
    1 month ago by robbob ( Admiral)
    Flag
    View All
    Hi Graham.
    They look excellent, a 'Masterpiece' of modelling ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘.
    Can you include something in the pictures to show the scale..a coin perhaps, it's all too easy to loose sight of the scale that you're working to.
    Also...... there's always something very....'Edvard Munch' about deadeyes ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿคฃ.
    Rob.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 111 Views
    4
    ๐Ÿ“ Chainplates
    1 month ago by Graham93 ( Captain)
    Flag
    View All
    Having completed all the major fittings that needed to attach to, or pass through, the deck it's time to get back to making progress on the hull. ๐Ÿ‘

    The exterior of the hull was glassed with two coats of epoxy resin. The inside of the hull was also given a sealing coat of epoxy resin.

    The plans I'm working to suggest that the mast stays are attached to the gunwales with bent metal hooks referred to as 'pelican hooks'. It is necessary to be able to release the stays so that the mast can be removed for transport. I'm beginning to realise just how big this model will be, and how much rigging will be necessary at the lakeside. ๐Ÿ‘Ž

    Rather than use the suggested Pelican hooks, I decided I would prefer to come up with a solution that looks more like that used on the full sized Cutters, using Chainplates and Deadeyes. There are two stays from the mast on either side of the hull, so four chainplates were made from brass strip with a short length of brass tube silver soldered to the top edge. A temporary mast was fitted (sorry no photo) and a length of string used to mark out the angle for the chainplates on the side of the hull so that they will be in line with the stays running down from the mast. The chainplates were then fitted using brass rivets which pass through the plates and the hull. Separate fixings for the end of the bowsprit stays were also made from brass and fitted to the hull sides.

    On the inside of the hull, the rivets were soldered to brass backing plates and the excess length trimmed back.
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comments
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 111 Views
    7
    1
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Chainplates
    1 month ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
    Flag
    Nice job Graham, just like the real fittings.

    JB
    ๐Ÿ‘ Like
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Comment
    ๐Ÿ‘€ 110 Views
    1
    Show 24 More Posts


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info