Absolutely brilliant Graham I love to see a jig being used, it improves the accuracy of the finished piece

Re - Then I thought, “don’t be silly, the sun rarely seems to shine here in the North West”😁🤣

Give me a yell when you're ready Graham and I'll post some up😂, you'd have to use it before winter though😁 Peter can send some from SA as well (might be stronger😂)

JB

Hi Phil,

I wouldn’t rush to charge the GoPro. ☹️ Can’t see us getting back to the Pavillion Gardens much before mid summer- and that’s me being optimistic. Gives me plenty of time to get on with this build 😀.

Stay safe, hope to see you soon.

Graham93

Colin, JB,

You got me thinking there for a few minutes about solar panels. Then I thought, “don’t be silly, the sun rarely seems to shine here in the North West”😁🤣

Graham93

Thanks Hammer,

This model has three removable hatches, plus the removable cabin roof, so there should be good access to all the gear under the deck. Good job as there is going to be quite a bit to fit in.

Graham93

Hope all well Graham, let me know when to charge up the gopro !👍⛵😋

The reason the punt has to fit on deck. So no room for hatch. A hatch makes life a lot easier on a model & no need to make the punt. In photo the westerman stearin & waves. Als a deck light can be seen. You are making an excellent job of your’s

I wanted to say very nice. But lost post

I believe Cutters in a working condition would not have a hatch. Relying on deck light to illuminate the cabin. Only when sold on for private use where hatches added.

That's not a silly idea Colin,- small ones as used in solar path lights etc? They will charge 2 AA NiMH batteries ok on a sunny day and come complete with the charging board.

JB

Extra nice Graham!👍👍 (as usual) Clever drilling idea as well!

JB

Super detailing, you could replace the false glass with solar panels to keep your batteries topped up.
Cheers Colin.

Very nice neat work Graham.
I like the way you even made the small cutouts for the false hinges.
Keep it up.

Martin555.

" Perhaps they should have been portholes and starboard holes😂"
Or Port holes and Underway or High seas holes JB 😂🤣
BTW Side lights to me are the small running lights on a car and scuttles are covers to close off portholes and other openings to protect them and prevent ingress of water in heavy seas.
Also associated with openings to allow water to drain off the deck - origin of 'scuttlebutt' perhaps?
Scuttle is apparently known as a synonym for porthole - never heard it in that context myself though.
"Scuttlebutt in slang usage means rumor or gossip, deriving from the nautical term for the cask used to serve water (or, later, a water fountain)."

"Etymology
According to the Navy Department Library, the word "porthole" has nothing to do with its location on the port side of a ship, but originated during the reign of Henry VII of England (1485). The king insisted on mounting guns too large for his ships and therefore the conventional methods of securing the weapons on the forecastle and aftcastle could not be used. A French shipbuilder named James Baker (?) was commissioned to solve the problem, which he did by piercing the ship's sides so the cannon could be mounted inside the fore and aft castles. For heavy weather and when the cannons were not in use, the openings were fitted with covers, that were called porte in French, meaning "door". "Porte" was Anglicized to "port" and later corrupted to porthole. Eventually, it came to mean any opening in a ship's side whether for cannon or not."

" porthole, sometimes called bull's-eye window or bull's-eye, is a generally circular window used on the hull of ships to admit light and air. Though the term is of maritime origin, it is also used to describe round windows on armoured vehicles, aircraft, automobiles (the Ford Thunderbird a notable example) and even spacecraft.
On a ship, the function of a porthole, when open, is to permit light and fresh air to enter the dark and often damp below-deck quarters of the vessel. It also affords below-deck occupants a limited view to the outside world. When closed, the porthole provides a strong water-tight, weather-tight and sometimes light-tight barrier.
A porthole on a ship may also be called a sidescuttle or side scuttle (side hole), as officially termed in the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea. This term is used in the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations. It is also used in related rules and regulations for the construction of ships. The use of the word "sidescuttle" instead of "porthole" is meant to be broad, including any covered or uncovered hole in the side of the vessel."
😎

Great documentation and pictures, a blog is all the more interesting for the effort taken, The quality of the build has been excellent as have all your other builds.

I must be getting slow Graham😂. Probably not a bad idea making it watertight, thought my Optimist was till I put it through some 'heavy weather' in the sea. It's watertight up to the top of the coamings, but leaked round the roof edges, (sort of labyrinth seal but it didn't stop it getting in).

Looked it up, (Glossary of old terms for marine surveyors) and 'Portholes' in the roof are apparently called skylights, and on the sides they are port lights, side lights or side scuttles (not portholes as everyone calls them,- apparently not a 'proper' nautical term),- who knew? (or really cared ) not me😁 Perhaps they should have been portholes and starboard holes😂

JB

JB,

No. Decided against a sliding hatch this time. Trying to make sure it is watertight, as far as I can. No working hinges on the cabin doors either. Surprised you didn’t pick up on that as well😂

Like those catches. Haven’t come across those before.

Graham93

WOT, no sliding hatch!? you're slipping Graham😂, but very nice all the same😁👍👍.

Re hatch fastening, - I have used these Carl Goldberg 464 angled clips for plane hatches, and they were brilliant (unfortunately discontinued). They are completely hidden and hold really firmly. You can use them in a number of different ways. If you ever see any on Ebay etc, well worth grabbing, very useful for any hatch type. The 463s would be just as good (also discontinued)☹️ It would be easy enough to copy something in nylon etc. (In the second pic, the small arched strip (like the top of a Scottish thistle) is removed to make a push on clip, - as per no 2 use in pic 4)

(just looked, - a bunch on ebay in US now, so they are still 'find-able')

JB

Doug,

Still have plenty of magnets available 😆

The plan suggests this way of securing the hatches so I thought I’d try it. Three of the four hatches will not need to be removed unless for repair or modifications. The hatches will certainly be secure this way. I would hate to loose one when she is heeled over. 😠

Graham93

"Finally, to hold the roof in position, two brass pins were added to the roof hatch framework. These locate into corresponding holes in the cabin end panel. At the opposite end of the roof, a bent stainless steel clip fits through holes in the end wall and the roof frame to lock the roof in position. A similar fixing method will be used for the other hatches. "

WHAT?😮 Run out of mini magnets Graham??😁
Seriously though folks! More stunning woodworking, love it.😍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Looking really good Graham.
Keep it up.

Martin555.

Lovely work Graham.

Cheers,
Stpehen.

Such beautiful precise work in your cabin top etc. You take so much trouble to incorporate everything.

Cheers, Nerys

That looks excellent Graham, new boats don't always have to look new, all boats weather and get knocked around. Looks like 10yr old teak decking might👍

JB

Lovely result Graham,

This is something I have been playing around with for my Drifters deck, I like your result.👍

Cheers,
Stephen.

Thank you, Graham, I appreciate your comment and that is the road I am going down when I get around to fitting the deck on my Clyde puffer, plus I will try the white vinegar and steel wool aging technique for good measure. That deck of yours is something to be proud of as I can see the time thought and effort that went into the making of it. Regards, Gary.

Hi Gary,

Thanks for all the ‘likes’ 👍

The caulking is black card cut into narrow strips. Got it from a local art/craft shop (before lockdown). It was labelled as ‘backing card’ I think. It’s about 1mm thick.

The circular indents in the ends of the planks are intended to represent wooden plugs over the fixings. I made a tool with a sharpened edge to press into planks to create the circles. A piece of brass tube sharpened around the edge would achieve the same result. There is a photo of the tool in the ‘Planking Part 2’ post earlier in the blog.

Graham93

I really like the planking very neat and concise absolutely spot on. Two questions if you don't mind, what have you used between the planks as caulking as it looks very good, and what are the small circles on the end of the planks, are they cut off cocktail sticks, as whatever they may be it sure makes for a great looking spot on deck, well done fantastic job there.

Graham A very nice result I have recently finished the three hatches on my police boat. I use the same technique as Rob using a piece of card to to give clearance's of this type, Another tip for a non stick gap is to use a piece of non stick oven liner (a Lakeland product) its reusable and there's no glue that will stick to it.

Thanks Steve, Rob,

I can’t claim credit for the method I used to make the hatches. It is based on a method recommended by the designer of the Cutter plan, Gary Webb.

I am a little concerned that the fit might be a bit tight, but time will tell.😉

Graham93

Hi Graham.
The hatches look great 👍😀.
I do something similar with thin card to create a clearance gap and found that sometimes you need more clearance than you imagined to allow for paint or stain finishes and the natural expansion and contraction of the wood.
I aim to end up with a slightly loose fit and use magnets to retain the piece rather than rely on a friction fit.
Rob.

Lovely hatch Graham,

I like the approach to constructing it as well.

Cheers,
Stephen.

Very nice job Graham, this is really starting to look something👍

JB

Michael,

I didn’t take it as a criticism 👍. The planking finish was a bit rough when I laid them and it took a lot of cleaning up as not all the planks were precisely the same thickness. I did think about it after the fact and thought if ever I do another one, I would do it differently next time. The planks need at least to be thicknessed before being laid.

Graham93

Graham it wasn't a criticism (a bit rough) just an observation of all planking when its first laid down

The mast is self supporting, a brass pin fits in a wooden block above the keel. The deck is the other support. The ballast lead chips mixed in cement, and a large block of iron placed after transport. Tangles can be a problem. But when I pack up I roll the stay sails round stays holding with masking tape. I also remove top gaff sail if it has been used not that often. More likely just the one stay sail & the main reffed. Rolled around the boom. As full size. I normally blacken all the brass but on this one wanted a bit of bling. 😂

The mast is self supporting, a brass pin fits in a wooden block above the keel. The deck is the other support. The ballast lead chips mixed in cement, and a large block of iron placed after transport.

Thanks Hammer,

That’s much closer to what I have in mind. I like the idea of fitting chainplates and dead eyes. Hadn’t thought about using elastic cord for the lanyards. Does it provide enough tension in the stays to support the mast?

Very nice looking model 👍

Graham93

I copied full size practice, but use elastic for the land-yards. To pack for transportation unscrew deck, drop the top mast, pull in bowsprit. This gives enough movement to lift the mast from the block, in the bottom of the boat. The mast is then laid forward and pulled back, so it doesn’t protrude beyond the hull. Not as neat as you model, but it is 10years old. PS I never marked the plank fixings on this model I must do that sometime.

Hi Graham, re the hooks, good idea not to use them, as I have them on the Optimist and they are a pain in the butt! They get hooked on everything when you are trying to rig the boat and cause stays etc to tangle. Almost impossible to keep everything separated, hence me leaving it rigged permanently.

If you could incorporate small jamming cleats on tensioners in your stay system it might make things easier to set up. You could make them from hardwood or brown formica (industrial linen/formica is a nice brown colour) it's like a fibre reinforced formica,- also used in full sized boat pulley blocks, - very tough, - machines well. A pic of the thought.

JB

Hi Graham
Excellent work 👍👍
I like the way you have joggled the planks into the perimeter planks, very authentic detailing.
Also the way you have made up a special tool to 'emboss' the wood plug on the plank fixings...very very effective 😀
As for the planks not being absolutely symmetrical about the hatches...nothing to worry about !!
As often said to me in similar circumstances.... " A blind man would love to see that".....😉
Rob.

Hi JB,

Thanks for the rigging suggestions, a few things for me to think about there.

The plan calls for wire clips on the end of the stays. These are referred to as 'Pelican hooks'. These clip through holes in the bulwark. I'm not planning to do it this way as I would rather use something that looks a bit more true to scale.

Graham93

Hi Graham, re rigging,- a few thoughts,- you could make your boom and gaff so they can swing upwards, and make quick release clips at the heads of your foresails. If you used tensioners (small 3 hole tent guy type) on your stays, you can slacken them off without removing anything, slacken and unclip the tops of the foresails, lay them back on the deck, -fold up the boom and gaff and tie them, then lift the mast out (given enough slack) and lay that on a crutch on the deck.

I did a similar thing on my 18ft A class cat, (25ft mast) using a double 2 sheave pulley system on the side stays, with a jamming cleat on the top pulley, so I could leave them attached to aid with stepping the mast (slackening them just enough to flip the mast round to the step). I've done the same sort of thing with the day-sailer and it works well

Looked at your plan, but a bit hard to see everything. Guess it will be another challenge to sort out, (it'll keep you busy for a bit longer😁) Pic might give you an idea for something similar. I've used the stay tensioners on a model cat years ago and it made rigging it really quick and easy( just had the tensioners through hooks which attached to eyes in the deck.

JB

Thanks everyone for the 'Likes' and the comments. It really is appreciated.

Martin: I'm enjoying the build, but not the temperature in the workshop first thing in the day. ☹️ It takes around 2 hours to become bearable once I have lit the stove 🔥

Nerys: Thanks for the reassurance on the butt offset on the planking. It's good to know some boats have it the way I have done. It won't be so obvious once all the rest of the deck fittings are in place.

JB: thanks. I have a Wee Nip which I sailed whenever I could last year, but this beast is going to be a whole lot different. Because of it's size, I won't be able to transport it fully rigged so I'm trying to work out how to rig it quickly at the pond side.

Michael: The initial planking looked very rough as the planks were just sawn, not planed, but it has cleaned up nicely.

Stephen: "Anyone who never made a mistake, never made anything" I keep reminding myself of that 😆

Graham93

Hi Graham,

Lovely work, your deck looks fantastic, I agree with Martin no one would have noticed the problem if you hadn't pointed it out.

I am glad that I am not the only person who finds out what I have just done is not quite right.

Life is full of little lessons...

Cheers,
Stephen.

Nice work Graham, planking is my favourite part of a build, its so satisfying seeing the initial laid planks looking "a bit rough" then the transformation when its sanded and lacquered

Would have expected nothing less Graham, beautifully done. Like the way you've done the nibbed ends on the margin plank, very smart! Love the contrasting woods, and also the clever 'fastening plug tool', looks very neat . This is going to look terrific, and I'm sure if you get the sailing bug (not the chinflu bug😀) there will be a next time😁.

JB

Hi Graham,

What an excellent job you are making of the cutter. That's as good a laid deck as I've seen in a long time. Don't worry about having butts in alternate runs of planking, I have often seen decks laid like that on full size Thames Barges. I look forward to the rest of your build and certainly of the proof of the pudding when we see her sailing.

Cheers, Nerys

Hi Graham,
The decking looks absolutely fantastic.
As for the hatches not being central, i think if you had not mentioned it i doubt that anyone would of noticed.

Excellent workmanship yet again.
I am enjoying this build log, keep it coming.

Martin555.

Hi JB,

Three days on and I’m still adding planks🙄 At least now I can see some progress. 👍 still more to do.👎

Graham93

Sounds familiar Graham, days of work with not much to show for it😁

JB

Hi Graham I like the thought of using what is available rather than buying new all the time, you always seem to buy more than you need ending up with an excess of materials. I've just finished a few weeks ago the planking of the police boat but have not written it up yet.
My next post will detail the process I use.

Hi JB,

I’m not ‘speed building’, I’m adding pieces slowly, but just spending a ridiculous number of hours doing it. 🤣😂 That gives the impression of a rapid build. Yesterday I spent 5 hours in the workshop planking, and I couldn’t see much difference at the end of the day. I’ll be glad when the planking is finished and I can get on with some of the more interesting stuff.

Graham93

Going to look very nice when finished Graham👍. Is speed building the latest thing in modelling?😁

JB

Well Graham being a Captain definitely won't improve your model making skills LOL!!
There is not a rank high enough to match your skill level.

Martin555.

Hi Ian,

Planking isn’t difficult. It’s just very time consuming and repetitive. The key is to try and fit every plank as well, or better than the first. Don’t let errors creep in as you get more and more bored with doing the same task over and over 😂.

Using strip wood available from the model boat suppliers makes it easier and quicker, if a bit more expensive.

Graham93

Thanks Martin,
Not sure what difference being a Captain makes. I guess I’lol just keep plodding on 😆

Graham93

Hi Rob,

Glad you are enjoying the build. I learnt the planking technique from your Crash Tender blog. 👍

Fortunately (?) this deck is so large that by the time I’ve finished adding a set of planks from one end to the other, the glue has almost dried where I started and I can start the next set. 🙄

Graham93

Hi Graham,
I like your post on planking as I have possibly three models to plank ( 2 are refurbishments). Very helpful and gives me a bit of insight into this black art😊😊

Hi Graham.
I'm really enjoying reading your build blog it's well written and photographed 👍👍
I've found the process of planking laborious but very satisfying when it's all sanded back and lacquered.
As you say, the worst part is waiting for the glue to set !
Be positive ....perhaps a good thing that you've got a little more time to spend on it 😉
Rob.

Congratulations Captain Graham93 On your well deserved promotion.

As for the deck planking it may take a bit of time but i think it will look fantastic when it is completed.


Martin555.

JB,

With the latest announcement from the UK government I’m going to have plenty of time to work on this in January.☹️

Now in full lockdown (Tier 4). Shops, pubs, restaurants are closed. Only allowed to leave home for essential purposes. Fortunately, leaving home to go to my workshop in the garden is permitted 😉

Graham93

Don't worry Graham, at this rate you'll have it done by January 2021😂

JB

Thanks Martin,

Glad you are enjoying the blog. I’m certainly enjoying the build, although the more I do, the more I realise there is still to do. It feels a bit overwhelming at present.

Graham93

Hi Graham,
This blog gets more interesting every instalment.
Your build is also school lessons for me.
You never know with your tutelage i might be more knowledgable about sail boats by the time you have finished.
Keep it coming.

Martin555.

JB,

I will need a few. I gave up counting when I got to 20😮 and that was just the single blocks. There are also several doubles needed. Still considering different ways of making them.

Graham93

Those will look nice once finished and varnished up Graham, guess you have to make a few. Just a suggestion, how about using a wad punch for the block outers, and cut them from thin ply and laminate them to the desired thickness. You could custom make a wad punch from thick wall brass tube squashed to shape and sharpened. That way they should be uniform and save a lot of 'blue air'😁. You could soak the ply first to soften it. pic- an example of some punches for leather available. (these were on the Wish website)

Think I've almost recovered from lunch yesterday, hope yours was good.

JB

JB,

Thanks for the link, could come in useful. I plan to try and make most of the fittings from scratch if I can, but I'm not sure some of them will be possible with the equipment I have. I did have a play a couple of days ago at block making. Still some way to go with this before I'm happy with it.

Sounds like you had a good Christmas lunch. Mine is in the oven. Hope your stomach recovers soon. 😴😴

Graham93

Like the custom chain plates Graham, nice touch!
These might be of interest? if they are the correct scale they might save some work.

Have a great Xmas!

JB

Great progress Graham ! - Best wishes to you and your good lady ! 👍

You don't hang about Graham.
Nice work.

Have a Merry Christmas you deserve a bit of time off.

Martin555.

Michael,

“I recon at this rate it will be in the water before the end of the year”

Yes, but which year? 😁 Certainly not 2020. Hopefully sometime in 2021. At present, as I think through the build, the list of bits to be made and fitted is growing every day. Can’t see an end to it. At least it will keep me busy as we move into Tier 3 lockdown on Saturday.

Graham93

Hi Graham I recon at this rate it will be in the water before the end of the year, Your still rubbing it in with pictures of that really nice plane,
😁 How about giving it a fellow member as a Christmas present😁

Thanks Rob,

The basic hull has come together quite quickly, but there is still a long way to go. Might be ready to sail by the time we have all been vaccinated 🙄.

I’m gradually sanding off the french polish. It’s not a good finish for surfaces that are going to get wet. 😆

I used ‘milled carbon fibre’ to thicken the epoxy resin, that’s why it is black. Bought it with the resin from Easy Composites.

Graham93

Going great guns there Graham, looking good. Obviously designed to be a developable surface build. looks very similar to my 15ft, 1950s US Schock designed 'Sharon Potts' day sailer (just a bit broader). Will probably have similar sailing characteristics as well. I have never had mine planing, despite being out in around 18 knots down wind with jib and main up. The boat just sucks down and sails. Surprisingly fast in light winds as well (has the equivalent rig of a 2 man 470 Olympic dinghy) The guy who designed my boat, Edson I Schock, was a naval architect and did a lot of work on developable surfaces for small boats. He also wrote a book on the subject in the 50s.

I think it's going to be a real nice sailer.

JB

Hi Graham.
Excellent and rapid progress👍👍.
I have to say that it's quite unique to see a 'French Polished' hull at such an early stage of construction 😆.
What did you use to thicken the epoxy used on the internal seams?
Rob.

Martin,

I don’t know much about sailboats either!, but I can follow a plan, and use a saw 😁. I do have a Wee Nip that I built this time last year. It has a single sail and rudder so couldn’t be much simpler to build or sail. I’ve enjoyed learning to sail with that, and I’m still learning. Sailing is a completely different challenge compared to a powered boat ( or a rowing boat 😆) as everything is dependant on the wind.

I don’t have any prior experience with full sized sailboats so it’s been interesting spending time researching different Cutter designs to learn about the sail arrangement, rigging and deck fittings. I’m sure I’m going to need lots of advice on these from the members here as this build progresses.

Graham93

Thanks Nerys,

It’s going together well so far. The plans have proven to be accurate and quite straightforward, despite being ‘hard chine’ 😠

Now I’m getting over the shock of how big she will be, the hull shape does look good.

Graham93

Hi Graham,
She is certainly coming along nicely.
Altho i know absolutely nothing about sail boats i am finding this blog very interesting.
Keep it coming.

Martin555.

I can't help being deeply impressed with every photo I see of this superb build. Despite being hard chine, she is a fine shape and gives me the impression she will sail well, keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.

Cheers, Nerys

I've got 4 projects on the go at the moment Graham, (3 individual pieces for 1 project)- don't think my brain could handle 5😂

JB

Martin, Michael,

I prefer using ‘trenails’ when constructing a model as they don’t need hammering in, and the don’t blunt your tools when cleaning up the joints like metal nails do 😠. Cocktail sticks work well and are cheap and readily available. Haven’t tried bamboo barbecue sticks but they would be even stronger.

Graham93

Go on John, you know you want to...😂🤣

Looking very nice so far Graham. I can see it's going to have your usual 'cabinetmakers' touch. Makes me want to start something now😁

JB

Don't you just love cocktail sticks 😀 don't forget the bamboo barbecue sticks for the bigger jobs.

Hi Graham,
I like the wood nails.
Even at this stage of the build you make it look so clean and tidy with that professional Finnish.
Nice work.


Martin555.