Guys, I chose the Proxxon, thanks to everyone who gave me advice and information.

So glad I could help, Duncan!

Hi Mike, laser cutting is an amazing new tool. Kudos to you for using CAD so well.

Hi Robbob, congratulations on the great ideas and truly original additions to the list of useful tools and utensils.
A true professional.

Hi Alessandro Thanks so much for that extremely useful information. 😊😊 I don't understand why they don't include this information in their packaging!
I'll print them out for reference
Thanks again
Cheers Duncan

Hi Duncan, here are the photos and specifications for each blade I mentioned in my previous message.

I'll send you the links directly with all the information.
If you have trouble opening and viewing them, let me know and I'll send you text and photos of what you need.

But don't just look at the photo and initial text of the individual blade's data sheet; also open the various drop-down menus immediately below.

https://www.dremel.com/gb/en/p/dremel-moto-saw-side-cutting-saw-blade-2615ms50ja

https://www.dremel.com/gb/en/p/dremel-moto-saw-general-purpose-wood-cutting-saw-blade-2615ms51ja

https://www.dremel.com/gb/en/p/dremel-moto-saw-fine-wood-cutting-saw-blade-2615ms52ja

https://www.dremel.com/gb/en/p/dremel-moto-saw-metal-cutting-saw-blade-2615ms53ja

https://www.dremel.com/gb/en/p/dremel-moto-saw-f013ms2

A temporary Spray Booth.

I thought I'd include this item in this thread as it has, for me, proved to be a very good substitute for a permanent spray booth with the advantage that it can be used indoors rather than outdoors without fear of contamination in the finish (usually flies!) and messy overspray.

In my old garage/workshop I was able to construct a spraying booth on an old pasting table with a framework of wooden battens and a covering of cardboard sheets. I also installed an extractor fan and LED lighting and an old shower curtain to enclose me when working within the booth. A turntable within made turning the workpiece very easy and I managed to achieve some impressive paint finishes on my models in relative comfort and warmth.

All of that was dismantled when I moved house but it was impractical to re-install it in my new workshop, and the little spraying that I did do in the new garage, on some garden furniture, resulted in a vast amount of overspray on every horizontal surface in my lovely new workshop.

Clearly this was not what I wanted to contend with when spray painting my latest model boat project.

The solution I found was a simple but effective ‘spray tent’ that is remarkably inexpensive, easy to erect and dismantle for storage.
I did have to choose one of the smaller versions of this tent so that it would fit the available width in my workshop but this is still sufficiently big enough to stand within, (wearing a suitable respirator of course!), and with the ‘door’ zipped up to enclose me fully, to apply spray paint whilst confining all of the overspray and dust within the tent.

And being within a heated, ventilated and draft free workshop I could control the ambient temperature and happily ‘spray away’ without concerns of mess that overspray can make.

The tent I bought from eBay was only £17.99 at that time (October 2025) but the price has now gone up to £21.59 (with free delivery, but currently out of stock!) a price which I still think is not unreasonable.

For anyone interested, I've added a link to my build blog which includes the making of my spray booth:
https://model-boats.com/blogs/23951?sort=ASC

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375612958605

Good morning, everyone!
It's amazing what machines you all have! But I have to say that a laser device is simply the best thing for me, and I can really put it to good use.
There is one prerequisite for this:
You have to be able to work with CAD. I myself work with 2D to test my presentation skills. 3D is much easier, but the free software is really cumbersome and tends to crash.
But craftsmanship is still the beauty of it all and the success that comes with it.
It's just a cool hobby.
So I wish you all lots of fun and hope to see many beautiful models in the future.
Your Michel-C.

Attached are a few pictures of me cleaning the laser cutter. Normal dirt that needs to be removed. If you take care of your equipment, it will always be ready to go.

Hi Duncan, is the Dremel you recently purchased the MS20 jigsaw (the one in the photos I posted in the first message)?

The Amazon link in the description says: Multipurpose wood cutting blade (MS51), Precision wood cutting blade (MS52), Serrated metal cutting blade (MS53).
Now you need to match these acronyms with an image so you can recognize them.

I hope this helps.

Duncan, there are so many different types of blades and cutting tools for Dremel tools for various materials. It depends on what material you want to cut, brass, copper, aluminum, steel, wood, plastic, etc. I don't think anyone has a cross reference chart that will show you what tool goes with what material.

The only thing that would make sense is when you buy the tool bit it should say on the box what the bit is good for.

There are many third-party suppliers for bits for Dremel tools, available. I even got some little bits from a dentist for cutting whatever I want. This is why a variable check works much better than the 1/8 inch collet.

And the photos you will see that I put most of my Dremel tool bits in one box. A pretty good accessory are the grinding disc which you can see in the upper left corner of the tool box bottom which has the Dremel EZ lock cutting discs for metal (2nd photo).

I have so much stuff it would take quite a bit of time to make an inventory list. The best bet is if you are trying to do something, look and see if they make a tool that helps you do it better and faster. Just common sense.

Lew

I have the same Record scroll saw. You can fit broader blades to give a straighter cut and with top and bottom blade clamps I have used coping saw and cut-down Junior Hacksaw blades with some success.

Hi, I bought my Dremel on a Black Friday deal in November 25 for £84.17. A great price I thought! You get 5 different blades but I couldn't see any references to indicate which blade to use for each type of materials you may wish to cut. Can anyone reading this post advise me which blade to use for different materials please? Cheers Duncan 😊

Cash, an excellent list ! Thank you.....Rod at Metro Marine Modellers in Toronto, Canada

Alessandro - as you say reducing speed electronically can have it's drawbacks but if the tool has a relatively powerful motor and is not put under high load, particularly for long periods, which is unlikely for model making purposes, then it is very unlikely that problems will be experienced. Contrast that with my Dremel which I have used for extended time when doing DIY and in situations where it is under load and you soon know because it starts getting hot and so you give it a rest.

I use the variable speed quite a lot on my Record scroll saw but look at the size of the motor (even though it's 80w) and it has no trouble operating at slower speeds! I see that the saw is available again from some stores and is around £130 which I reckon is a bargain. The cast base isn't the best in places but the rest of it is pretty well made and with good quality blades produces good work.

Dave - as you know, jig/scroll saws aren't designed to cut straight lines due to the small blades but I can see why sometimes it would be beneficial to have a guide which I see that the Proxxon that Alessandro is interested in does have, though the bigger ones don't. I find that any timber with a grain, and that includes ply, can cause the blade to run off a lot - I sometimes find myself with the piece being cut at quite an angle to maintain a straight line!

Hi Dave, congratulations, you made an excellent purchase, very affordable. We're talking about a professional tool.
I opted for saws that weren't too bulky for space reasons.

Thanks so much, Dave, for your information and opinions.

Alessandro,
I don't really know how to answer which of the two choices is best for you, as I have no personal experience with either of those.
As I said, I do own tools from both companies, and have had good experience with both.
The Dremel feature of being detachable appeals to me. Although, as others have said, I don't know how often one would need that.
In my own shop, I have a larger, more commercial-grade Hegner Brand scroll saw of German manufacture.
They are quite expensive, but I got very lucky and found one used in a Pawn Shop at a reasonable price.
For my hobby use I would never have paid the price for a new one. But when I spotted this one used for a fraction of the new price, I had to scoop it up!
I am happy with it, overall. However, I wish it had provisions for a fence. I find I need to make jigs to guide the material if I want clean, straight cuts.
I don't have any really good pictures of it, but I am attaching what I do have. Maybe this will give you some inspiration .....
Dave B

Thanks for the clarification, Chris.

I figured so, but I wasn't sure.
Since I've seen potentiometers on other tools, I assumed that reducing the rpm was solely due to voltage reduction.
Indeed, as you say, continuous reduction, rather than stepwise, is indicative.

Of course, this isn't the best solution (in fact, perhaps a little risky in most cases).

I realize I'm digressing from the main topic, but just to have a chat.

Reducing the voltage usually decreases the electrical power proportionally, but in the case of an electric motor (if a load is applied), to compensate for the power demand, the current draw will increase to levels that risk damage.
As for torque, however, the drop will be drastic; not directly proportional, but quadratic. A small decrease in voltage will correspond to a large drop in torque.

It would have been different (much more advantageous, though more complex and expensive) if there had been a geared speed reduction (mechanical reduction).
In that case, there would have been no need to lower the voltage, and we wouldn't have lost electrical power and therefore torque. In fact, the torque will increase by reducing the rpm.
We would have had reduction steps and not the possibility of continuous reduction (typical of a potentiometer).

But you already know these things very well. I was just saying that I don't consider an electrical speed reduction a real plus. It's certainly better than nothing.
For now, the 5 cm depth of the arm weighs much more heavily on the scale (which is essentially in equilibrium).

As the speeds, like many Proxxon and other tools (including my scroll saw), are infinitely variable over the speed range it will be by electrical means.

The only tool I have that uses mechanical speed change is my Proxxon mini bench drill which only has 3 speeds and uses pulleys and belts.

Very good and well-reasoned considerations ChrisF.
Now you've made me curious: the Proxxon speed change occurs by varying/decreasing the electrical voltage or by engaging mechanical reduction gears.

Definitely the Proxxon then! 😀

Trouble with tools like the Dremel is that they have such small motors that they rely on high speed and soon slow up under load, even the slowest speed is 1500rpm! To be blunt I don't consider it to be a proper jigsaw.

The Proxxon doesn't have much more power, 85w as opposed to 70w, but it is stated that it will cut thicker timber and assume it has a physically bigger motor as it can go down to 150rpm.

If you ever feel the need for a hand held jigsaw you'd be better off just buying a small handheld one. I've never felt the need in 8 years of scratch building as I find the scroll saw and other tools do just fine or I cut by hand if really delicate.

I do have a full on Bosch jigsaw for DIY but the only time that's come near model making is building the stands!

Thank you so much, ChrisF and Wolle, for your advice.

Thank you, Cash, for your contribution and your valuable opinion on the main topic of this thread.

I'm leaning toward purchasing the Proxxon.
I was initially leaning toward the Dremel because I liked the idea of ​​being able to use it manually without a stand.
I checked a question I'd asked online: the arm (bow) of the Proxxon is 300 mm deep, while the Dremel's is 250 mm deep. I was mistaken from the photos, and I would have thought they were the same or deeper than the Dremel's.

I have to decide within this week because they want to give it to me as a gift.

I think I would choose Proxxon again.

Okay y’all, here’s my list. I’ve built a lot of models but I usually build from kits, or so times I’ll use the hull and build up from there. Most of my boats have plastic or wood hulls, but I have one or two that are fiberglass, so my list is rather old fashioned.
A good, quality XActo knife and spare blades, preferably 2 knives
Zona/XActo saw
Allen wrenches with bondhus tips
A sanding block and a good sanding bar
2-3 different types of pliers, mainly needle nose
Clamps, including clothespins
Rulers in different sizes
Right angle
Screwdrivers
A Dremel
Power drill and bits
Heat gun
A good soldering station that can do some light brass work as well as electrical
Paintbrushes
Plastic nippers
Wire cutter
Vise
If you can afford it a good small scroll saw
Hacksaw
Small hammer
Pencils
An RC car tool set, with interchangeable small nut drivers, Allen drivers and screwdrivers that go into a handle
The 4 way metric wrench that comes with Tamiya rc car kits
Above all, a good, large solid workbench that you don’t mind getting glue and paint on, and it needs to be straight and true as much as possible.
Cutting mat
Servo tester
Lipo battery tester
Voltmeter
If you can find one, an AstroFlight Whatmeter-plug it in between esc and battery, you can run the boat on the bench and see how many watts and amps you’re pulling and battery voltage all at once
A good charger. If, like me the majority of your models are electric, you’ll need a good one. And not a proprietary “smart charger” that only does a decent job of one manufacturer’s product, but a good 2-4 channel charger that can charge multiple battery chemistries at the same time. If you are, however, the type of person that likes staying with one brand then the smart charger might be for you, but I’d at least have a backup charger for some things you may come across later.
A connector holder for soldering bullet, deans, etc.
Extendable magnet
Flashlight
Not really needed but nice to have:tap and die set in small SAE and metric threads.
Nice to have if you have the money, space and knowledge: 3D printer, small drill press and a lathe. As of now I have none of those.
Oh-I consider this a supply and a tool, good quality masking tape. Sometimes, depending on the boat and the shape and attachment of the deck, I use masking tape to hold the deck down while the glue sets, as I gives me the ability ro put tension on the deck and hull to make a good bond, and allows me to make adjustments on the fly depending on cure time.
That’s about it for me.
Cash

Just to complicate matters! I was going to buy a Proxxon jig/scroll saw when I first started the hobby and someone convinced me not to as he considered them overpriced for the quality.

So I bought a cheaper Record (don't seem to be available now but many clones are) and it has been just the job. It is variable speed and has a 16" throat so will cut the larger pieces of ply that you mentioned. The secret is good quality blades and the right type and it will cut cleanly and accurately.

Since then I have bought quite a few Proxxon tools and am happy with them and also have a Dremel tool bought for DIY but find it runs a bit fast for model making so use my Proxxon.

Not saying that the Dremel jig saw isn't capable for certain tasks but as the budget is available I'd go for the Proxxon. Greater speed range, very slow is very useful, cuts thicker timber so has power to spare and looks to have a bigger throat for cutting bigger pieces of timber.

But you need to be sure that even the Proxxon is going to be suitable for your tasks? They do bigger ones, but they start to get expensive (which is why I was advised against one).

Chris

Thank you very much Wolle, you're very kind, but which one do you recommend if I have to choose just one of the two?

Hello Alessandro
I have the one from Proxxon.
She's actually quite good. You have to get used to it and let the saw do the work. Threading the saw blade is a bit complicated, but once you get the hang of it it works. Overall I'm happy with it.
I have a hand dremel from Dremel...it's great.

I haven’t actually got this model but do have numerous other Proxxon tools, all of which are good.

Thanks so much, Dave, for your reply. Your information is very valuable to me.
I can get one; which one do you recommend?
Another important question: which of the two has more room to maneuver (i.e., which has a longer bow and can therefore handle larger pieces?)?
I hope I've explained myself well.

I have both Proxxon and Dremel tools.
Both are decently manufactured.
I looked at the Dremel website, and I see it has a "Detachable Coping Function", which I can see coming in handy at times.
I don't think you can go too far wrong with either saw.
Dave B

Thank you so much, Cenbeth and DuncanP, for your replies.

Cenbeth, thank you so much for your help. You confirm that the Proxxon is an excellent product.

I'm sure that anyone who has tried either the Proxxon or the Dremel individually will speak highly of them, as they are indeed products with good reviews.
In fact, my choice ultimately fell on two established (and very well-known) brands. There are probably many other good ones, but I needed to narrow it down.

I'd be lucky to find someone who has bought and tried both (or at least tried them).
If so, someone who has tried both could tell me what the advantages of each are and which one they think is better.

I did some research online, and it seems that the Dremel has the advantage of being easier to handle and more practical, but the Proxxon is more precise and reliable (the Proxxon also has adjustable speeds and greater power).
Based on these considerations, I'd opt for the Proxxon, but I have a doubt: The work surface and the saw blade seem a bit small, so I might have difficulty working with fairly large sheets of plywood. If it only works on small scraps, it's not very useful to me, but I'm not sure because the photos aren't very clear.
Cenbeth could help me with this by sending a photo of the arm (without a face).

Any other information would be welcome.

I have bought one of the Dremel ones in the New Years sales but I haven't used it as yet!😅

Personally I’d go for the Proxxon one. I’ve found Proxxon reliable, being well made and it can be easily put on a bench.

Hi everyone, I'm using this thread to ask a question to you modelers instead of creating a new one because it's still relevant to the topic.

I'd like to purchase one of these two products (see attached photos and links).
Can anyone recommend which product they think is better and explain why?






https://share.google/9DXAgg3rC8ny9qbym





Proxxon 27088 Sega a traforo DS 230/E (sega elettrica 85 W, lame per sega incluse, piano di lavoro 160 x 160 mm) : Amazon.it: Fai da te https://share.google/XkumlswTG3wEyEO5A

Oh, thank you.
You're making me feel embarrassed.
Michel-C.

. . . . . . . 😌 Good thing you can't see how I've blushed slightly.

Michel c
On Belgique on dit j’ôte ma casquette. Toi tu es formidable avec ton impromante 3D
In Belgium we say i take my hat off.
I m more than impressed with people who can fiddle around with a 3D printer . Only one word whah

Hi Mike, welcome back from me.
Nice to hear from you again.
Right to modeling, eh? Great job.

Hello everyone,
Finally back home, a warm hello to all of you out there!
No sooner had I arrived home than I started drawing and laser cutting my vacation ideas.
Here is my latest scriber and marker for ship hulls.
If you can afford a metal scriber, that's fine. But here they are extremely expensive.
My comment made me smile, but that soon disappeared.
You can get something like this from the Chinese too, but I suspect that the quality of their wood isn't perfect, more like bamboo. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
See for yourselves...
You are the best with all your tips and ideas!
I would like to thank you for that...
Yours, Michel-C., full of enthusiasm

Hi Roy, I'm responding to your concerns about the content of the messages and the topic of the thread.
If I translated your opening sentence correctly:
"Sorry, you're losing me on this thread. The heading is tools and equipment," you're wondering why we switched from tools to materials.

Let me explain.
The topic is actually "The tools/equipment of the ship modeler."
Initially, I wanted to know which tools you think are most useful for ship modeling.
I also asked if, in your opinion, it was possible to build an entire model with just three tools (in which case, I wanted to know which), or with five or seven.
Finally, what was your ideal complete kit?
For example, I maintain that with just three tools it's possible to build an entire model, but not design it, and as long as it's a complete kit of a static RC model.
I won't repeat all the content of the messages here (just reread them if you want to understand), but there were some very interesting, albeit conflicting, opinions.
We then added a list of tools for dynamic RC modeling.
However (note here, this is the crux of my explanation), right from the first messages, some participants included materials in addition to tools and utensils.
I didn't scold them for going off-topic (I never do because I think it's rude and impolite to do so, and because I don't consider digressions to be a negative thing in a forum), but I promised myself I'd address the topic of materials separately, at the end.
Instead of opening a separate topic, I placed it at the end of this one, but I did make one clarification.
In fact, I wrote at the beginning of my last message: "To complete the overall picture, instead of creating a separate topic, we could create a sort of spin-off on the materials used by naval modelers."
Rereading the entire topic, I still find the content of the messages very interesting.
I hope I've clarified the reason for the digression, and thank you for sharing your thoughts.

Hi Lew
You got it I one, it is to hold the commectors while soldering. A really great tool

Regards
Ed

EdW, I'm guessing it has to do with electrical (battery power) connections. I recognize the series of letters and numbers.
Lew

Hi Lew
I agree with you and Roy. There is a distinct difference between tools and materials.

Here is an unusual one for the members to guess that it is used for.

I am also lost on the object of this thread. There are so many different tools that can be used to build models. These can vary by the type of model from a basic plastic kit requiring only a few tools to a large multi material model and scratch builds requiring power tools like saws, a drill press, and possibly a lathe.

A lot of stuff suggested are materials used to as parts of models, not really "tools/equipment ".

Common sense is probably the only tool that needs to be suggested. Perhaps a more logical thread would be something like "do you have any unusual tools to build your models".

Lew

Sorry you are losing me on this thread. The heading is tools and equipment. Essentially these items will be put back in the tool box after a model is completed.

Most of the list is stores that gradually get used up as various models are built. These are accumulated as other models are built. So the accumulated items will depend on what you build.

Most tools have been mentioned, but perhaps not knife blades, I do not discard them but re-sharpen on an oil stone. I often have half an hour of sharpening blades and it is most rewarding. I have not bought cutting blades for nearly 20 years.
I store them in large jam jars sharp end down buried in hard packing foam. They are the X-Acto type and surgical knives and the ubiquitous Stanley knife, these blades sharpen very well.

There are speciality tools like a small variable angle guillotine with a razor blade cutting edge, it takes up space but excellent when cutting and laying planks on a deck

Many of the tools we use in wood and plastic modelling only need holes up to 3 or 4mm diameter and a vertical drill is useful. I have never needed big engineering tools for models although I have done courses to operate them. When necessary I have a good friend that has a workshop just 10 minutes away by car who obliges!

Roy

Right Ross, absolutely right, big oversight on my part.

. . . and for those of us that are naturally pushed around, for the static modelers, silkspan and paper and for the dynamic modelers, cotton, cotton-polyester blends, Dacron, nylon, Ripstop and more I can't remember

To complete the overall picture, instead of creating a separate topic, we could create a sort of spin-off on the materials used by naval modelers.

In my opinion, for static naval modeling, these are the most important:
glues (of various types; I use a lot of cyanoacrylate),
paints,
enamels
I don't use fillers, but many modelers do,
resins (of various types),
masking tape,
brass sheets,
brass rods,
various types and thicknesses of cordage,
white spirit,
nitro thinner,
turpentine,
electrical tape.
I won't mention wood because I use it as needed, even though I have plenty of strips and pieces of wood left over.

A dynamic naval modeler also needs solder,
various types of wire,
various connectors,
batteries of various types, voltages, and amperages,
protective grease and lubricant,
electrical tape,
heat shrink tubing,
aluminum tubing,
brass tubing,
brass and aluminum profiles,
screws of various types and sizes,
micro-bearings,
joints,
and spring steel.

Actually I did say in my post that people like us not only build but we repair as well and Torx screw driver is a useful tool with manufacturers using them more and more.
I agree with hex screws, I have just soldered a brass tiller together and used a hex screw to locate it on the rudder post. I am getting a decorative model boat to float and much to my annoyance I have had to glue down the surrounding structure, so access is difficult but I found a nice long Allen key which is a nice fit.

Roy

I find this IFIXIT set invaluable as it provides a wide range of small bits and sockets as well as a flexible extention.

Alessandro

Yes, you are right. My mind was drifting more to hex headed bolts. My mind drifts a lot these years😜

Hi Ross, sure.
You're absolutely right.
Hex keys are essential in dynamic RC ship modeling.
Besides the reason you mentioned, I can think of other uses. For example, they're used to tighten the grub screws on fixed joints (between the crankshaft and the propeller shaft).
I thought I'd already listed them. I double-checked; I'd put them between the adjustable wrench and the electrician's scissors. You translated them as Allen keys. Aren't they the same thing?