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📝 Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by MouldBuilder (
Sub-Lieutenant)
Sub-Lieutenant)
I have spent the last couple of sessions preparing and fitting the prop shafts, mounts and pump plate.
First was to prepare the wood profiles, paint with sanding sealer and then prime them. They look a lot neater sprayed grey than just plain ply wood. I checked the two motors and found that the suppressor was not of the correct value. I removed it and replaced with the normal 47nf capacitor across the terminals and 10nf from each terminal to the casing. I then connected the wires to the terminals.
I built the assemblies, fitted the motors and placed then in the hull. I then inserted the shafts and connected them to the motors via solid connectors. I prefer solid drive connectors where possible as I believe this should reduce vibration which is often introduced through universal joints. When I was happy with the alignment, I glued the shafts in place with Acrylate. I then fitted and glued the water intake pipe also with Acrylate.
Next came the pump plate. This plate also has the rudder servo secured to it. After assembly, this was also glued to the hull.
Next job was to fit the rear deck support and the bead on the outside which will eventually hold the rubber fender strip. The pencil taped to the flat stick at a distance of 12mm was used to mark the outside of the hull similar to marking the deck support line before.
It was now time to prepare the two deck levels. Strengthening braces of ply wood were fitted all around. This has resulted in quite a strong unit. The instructions say that the fitting of the decks is next. I think they have forgotten all of the working features of this build. If the decks are glued now, there is no room for fitting in all of the gadgets. I will wait until I know what is required.
Next time I will start the preparation of the cabin. This part contains most of the fire monitor servos and piping, radar and search lights plus general lighting. Very busy.
First was to prepare the wood profiles, paint with sanding sealer and then prime them. They look a lot neater sprayed grey than just plain ply wood. I checked the two motors and found that the suppressor was not of the correct value. I removed it and replaced with the normal 47nf capacitor across the terminals and 10nf from each terminal to the casing. I then connected the wires to the terminals.
I built the assemblies, fitted the motors and placed then in the hull. I then inserted the shafts and connected them to the motors via solid connectors. I prefer solid drive connectors where possible as I believe this should reduce vibration which is often introduced through universal joints. When I was happy with the alignment, I glued the shafts in place with Acrylate. I then fitted and glued the water intake pipe also with Acrylate.
Next came the pump plate. This plate also has the rudder servo secured to it. After assembly, this was also glued to the hull.
Next job was to fit the rear deck support and the bead on the outside which will eventually hold the rubber fender strip. The pencil taped to the flat stick at a distance of 12mm was used to mark the outside of the hull similar to marking the deck support line before.
It was now time to prepare the two deck levels. Strengthening braces of ply wood were fitted all around. This has resulted in quite a strong unit. The instructions say that the fitting of the decks is next. I think they have forgotten all of the working features of this build. If the decks are glued now, there is no room for fitting in all of the gadgets. I will wait until I know what is required.
Next time I will start the preparation of the cabin. This part contains most of the fire monitor servos and piping, radar and search lights plus general lighting. Very busy.
suppressor
bead
plate
pencil
decks
stick
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by RNinMunich (
 Fleet Admiral)
More good stuff Peter, coming on very well👍
Odd with the motors! What capacitors were fitted then? "I prefer solid drive connectors where possible as I believe this should reduce vibration which is often introduced through universal joints." Hmm! Whereas I agree that universals can introduce rattling and vibration, especially the 3 part kardan couplings, or the all metal UJs. This is mostly due to bad alignment of the shafts in the first place. Otherwise a UJ or a kardan would not be necessary. BUT; using a rigid solid coupling demands that your shaft alignment is absolutely perfect. Otherwise due to it's rigidity any slight misalignment will cause excessive friction and wear on the shaft bearing and motor output bearing, which will ultimately lead to vibration anyway. Not to mention wasting power to overcome the friction. I don't like universals either. Which is why I make rigid couplings as alignment tools only and then fit a semi-rigid spiral coupling (as shown in my Sea Scout postings) for operation. This absorbs any residual misalignment as well as providing some axial flexibility to absorb the thrust reaction from the prop. And they are totally silent and vibration free😊 I buy mine from Krick incidentally. Acrylate glue? Never heard of it, so I looked it up🤓 Hadn't realised you are into finger nail cosmetics Pete 😮 "WHAT ARE ACRYLATES? FOUND IN: Artificial Nail Products (Acrylic Nails, Nail Enhancing Polishes). Acrylates are derived from acrylic acid and are commonly found in cosmetic nail preparations. Ethyl acrylate acts as an adhesive to apply artificial nails and eyelashes. Ethyl methacrylate and methyl methacrylate allow sculptured artificial nails to mold and adhere to the natural nail plate. " 😁😂🤣 Yo MUST post some pics of your 'scultured nails' Pete 😂🤣 I like the ghostly translucent superstructure 👍 Gives lots of scope for some interesting LED light effects. I note that you have wired both motors the same way (polarity). Your choice, but assuming that they run clockwise, (seen from the output shaft end) then the combined side-thrust from the two props on the downward / bottom stroke (😮) will produce a strong torque reaction causing a list to starboard and will try to push the bow to port / stern to starboard. The latter you will have to constantly correct with the rudder. Had exactly that effect with the first runs of my destroyer, until a Retd. Cap'n RN told me to reverse the port motor! On the other hand, you can always use this effect to do some snazzy parking! Approach the 'dock' on the stbd. side at a slight bow on angle, give the throttle a quick blip and the side thrust should park the stern neatly on the dockside! 😊 Practise makes perfect! Looking forward to the next instalment, cheers, Doug 😎 😊 finger nail cosmetics adhesive Artificial Nail Products Nail Enhancing Polishes 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by Martin555 (
 Commodore)
You are doing a great job, coming along nicely.
However the pump that you are using could cause you problems as I have used this type of pump a couple of times and found it is not very reliable and has packed up. Maybe I was just unlucky and had two from the same batch! Martin. 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by MouldBuilder (
Sub-Lieutenant)
Thanks to you both.
The pumps are Krick. I have found this company to supply quality items. Time will tell if this goes for their pumps as well. I will show you my nails Doug. Soon. In the mean time, this glue is recommended by Krick for the water tight areas. I used it on the Pilot Boat and it has performed well so far. Well, the boat has not sunk yet.🤓 pumps glue boat Pilot Boat 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
I agree Peter,
I get a lot of stuff from Krick as well. Prices are acceptable and delivery prompt. I have a few of those pumps (also used in car windscreen washers). Found that they do tend to clog in murky waters but otherwise no problem. Funny, I'd forgotten the 'acrylate' part of Cyanoacrylate!! Got too used to calling it CA or Gluper Sue 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 car windscreen washers pumps 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by MouldBuilder (
Sub-Lieutenant)
I forgot to mention the motor wiring. I have wired them the same polarity because I use a dual ESC so I can just swap the wires over for one of the motors. 😊
By the way. Is there a difference between Cyanoacrylate, super glue and Loctite? I saw a confusing comment in Mikes build blog.😀 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
Hi Pete,
"I have wired them the same polarity because I use a dual ESC so I can just swap the wires over for one of the motors." Hmmm! OK, but it is bad practice to mix up the colours; i.e. you would end up with the plus volts on a black wire and ground on the red!😮 The load (i.e. motor) should always be wired to indicate the required supply polarity. Makes troubleshooting much easier and helps to prevent accidents or magic smoke.💥🤕 Super Glue is just the 'street name' for Cyanoacrylate glues. Must have missed Mike's comment 🤔 Don't know what Loctite is made of but it smells quite different🙈 Cheers, Doug BTW: I have one of those Dual ESCs as well👍 It's destined for fitting to my destroyer or maybe the Southampton tug. I also have an Action Electronics dual ESC which has a built in rudder mixer. This might help the destroyer steering more than the Hobby Wing cos it only needs one stick for control of both motors and rudder with motor assisted steering! stick 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by MouldBuilder (
Sub-Lieutenant)
Thanks for the explanation Doug. I will reverse one. Do you know which, yellow or blue, is positive on the ESC.😊
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
Don't know yet Peter. I suspect the yellow.
I'll suck it and see 😉 Oh goody! A box of electronic goodies just arrived😊 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
Hi Pete,
Soooo, I have sucked 😝 and seen! Tested my dual ESC on the motors of my Graf Spee. Yellow is positive when going ahead, as suspected. Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: don't forget to set the teeny weeny switches 1 and 2 to the right for Boat mode; forward / reverse with no brake!!! Switch 3 also to the right for NiMh battery, left for LiPo. Alles klar Herr Kommissar? 😁 👍 Like
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by MouldBuilder (
Sub-Lieutenant)
Thanks Doug. The Pilot Boat has one which, incidentally, is wired backwards on one motor. I remember switching the wires.😀
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💬 Re: Fitting shafts and motors
5 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
All's well .... 👍
After I bought my Dual Quicrun I found the Action Electronics Dual ESC with rudder mixer AND output for a 3rd (centre) motor 😠 Natch more expensive but ideal for MTBs / PTBs! Have fun Pete, Cheers, Doug😎 Quicrun rudder mixer 👍 Like
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📝 Fitting the Rudders
5 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
Sub-Lieutenant)
There are four rudders on this boat. The design for these is a vast improvement on the Aeronauts Pilot Boat I recently completed.
The first stage was to drill all of the required holes in the hull. These include two for the anchors, two for the prop shafts, one for the water inlet tube and four for the rudders. As this is an ABS hull moulding, drilling is not usually too much of a problem but due to the cost of the model, I decided to protect the insides around the holes with tape to decrease the possibility of cracking. I start the holes off with a 3mm drill and then increase to the final size which in this case was 4mm, 6mm, 7mm and 4mm respectively. I gently filed around the holes to get a nice slide fit and correct alignment of the tubes.
The deck lies on a support rib which will later be glued around the inside of the hull. The instructions highlight the build of a simple device which will hold a pencil at a height of 7.5mm. A pencil is taped to a straight piece of wood of about 30cm long with a suitable spacer in between which was 3mm in this case. You can then place the stick to contact both sides of the hull and then draw a constant line at exactly 7.5mm down. Simple but effective. This will form the height guide for the deck support. This line was also continued around the bow of the ship which will form the bulwark later.
The next job was to prepare and glue the side supports inside the hull for the rudder tube support board. Next job was to glue the support board in place. I did not notice at this time that the support board had quite a bad bend in it. The bow was upwards which resulted in the two centre tube alignment inserts being above the end of the tubes. The solution was to glue the two middle alignment inserts under the support board instead. A little awkward but the result is good.
The rudder tubes were now fitted and glued to be water tight with Stabilit Express glue. This is good for water tightness.
I painted the four rudders matt black and then protected with Lacquer. Although the instructions state that the rudders should be fitted and set up at this stage, I have decided to leave this for as long as possible to avoid damage.
The next job is to fit the twin motors and prop shafts. This is a job for next week.
The first stage was to drill all of the required holes in the hull. These include two for the anchors, two for the prop shafts, one for the water inlet tube and four for the rudders. As this is an ABS hull moulding, drilling is not usually too much of a problem but due to the cost of the model, I decided to protect the insides around the holes with tape to decrease the possibility of cracking. I start the holes off with a 3mm drill and then increase to the final size which in this case was 4mm, 6mm, 7mm and 4mm respectively. I gently filed around the holes to get a nice slide fit and correct alignment of the tubes.
The deck lies on a support rib which will later be glued around the inside of the hull. The instructions highlight the build of a simple device which will hold a pencil at a height of 7.5mm. A pencil is taped to a straight piece of wood of about 30cm long with a suitable spacer in between which was 3mm in this case. You can then place the stick to contact both sides of the hull and then draw a constant line at exactly 7.5mm down. Simple but effective. This will form the height guide for the deck support. This line was also continued around the bow of the ship which will form the bulwark later.
The next job was to prepare and glue the side supports inside the hull for the rudder tube support board. Next job was to glue the support board in place. I did not notice at this time that the support board had quite a bad bend in it. The bow was upwards which resulted in the two centre tube alignment inserts being above the end of the tubes. The solution was to glue the two middle alignment inserts under the support board instead. A little awkward but the result is good.
The rudder tubes were now fitted and glued to be water tight with Stabilit Express glue. This is good for water tightness.
I painted the four rudders matt black and then protected with Lacquer. Although the instructions state that the rudders should be fitted and set up at this stage, I have decided to leave this for as long as possible to avoid damage.
The next job is to fit the twin motors and prop shafts. This is a job for next week.
boat
spacer
device
pencil
tape
stick
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💬 Re: Fitting the Rudders
5 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
How did I manage to miss this!🙄
Great stuff Pete, your skills are going up exponentially👍 When I think back to our first discussions ... Hat off 😉 I use Grandads ancient wood gauge for jobs like that hull marking. I have that job before me with my Deans Marine Manxman hull 😮 KUTGW 👍 Doug 😎 👍 Like
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📝 RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
7 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Sub-Lieutenant)
Sub-Lieutenant)
I have been looking forward to starting this build for some time. It looks like this will be an interesting model to build but mainly I look forward to setting up the 16 channels required to give full function to all of the special features.
The Dusseldorf is one of three identical boats built for use in the Ruhr area of Germany. The boats are equipped for disaster situations, (they must have known I was going to build it)😀. They can be used for ship fires, oil leaks or as a port facility at risk of explosion.
The fire monitors, radar, boat crane, lighting and anchor winch will all be working if I can sort out the controls. The fire monitors are of particular interest because if I get things right, they will swivel, lift and lower and shoot water. We will see.
As stated in the instructions, I read most of them to see how things looked. I got bored at page six so forgot that bit. The next stage was to check the contents against the bill of materials. There must be 1000 pieces. I checked the large pieces and gave the rest a miss also. Not a good start I hear you cry. You will get used to it.
I proceeded to remove the stand parts and lightly sanded off the connection remains. I assembled it using super glue but I will strengthen the inner corners with Epoxy later. I stuck some draft excluder tape to all of the edges which contact the hull for safety.
Next stage was to trim off the excess material at deck level of the Hull. With 1.5mm thick ABS this is quite a job especially considering that the boat measures around 2.8 Metres all around. I used a Stanley knife to remove the bulk of the material followed by different sized files to trim to size. This process takes a lot of care so that not too much material is removed. The hull has a rather crude sort of line to work to but I think I will put more reliance on my eye and a two foot steel rule. I still have a little filing of the edges to do before I will be completely happy as this edge will be visible on the completed model.
According to the instructions my next stage is to fit the rudders, motors and prop shafts. A job for next week.
The Dusseldorf is one of three identical boats built for use in the Ruhr area of Germany. The boats are equipped for disaster situations, (they must have known I was going to build it)😀. They can be used for ship fires, oil leaks or as a port facility at risk of explosion.
The fire monitors, radar, boat crane, lighting and anchor winch will all be working if I can sort out the controls. The fire monitors are of particular interest because if I get things right, they will swivel, lift and lower and shoot water. We will see.
As stated in the instructions, I read most of them to see how things looked. I got bored at page six so forgot that bit. The next stage was to check the contents against the bill of materials. There must be 1000 pieces. I checked the large pieces and gave the rest a miss also. Not a good start I hear you cry. You will get used to it.
I proceeded to remove the stand parts and lightly sanded off the connection remains. I assembled it using super glue but I will strengthen the inner corners with Epoxy later. I stuck some draft excluder tape to all of the edges which contact the hull for safety.
Next stage was to trim off the excess material at deck level of the Hull. With 1.5mm thick ABS this is quite a job especially considering that the boat measures around 2.8 Metres all around. I used a Stanley knife to remove the bulk of the material followed by different sized files to trim to size. This process takes a lot of care so that not too much material is removed. The hull has a rather crude sort of line to work to but I think I will put more reliance on my eye and a two foot steel rule. I still have a little filing of the edges to do before I will be completely happy as this edge will be visible on the completed model.
According to the instructions my next stage is to fit the rudders, motors and prop shafts. A job for next week.
fire monitors
knife
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💬 Re: RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
7 months ago by Cashrc (
 Warrant Officer)
I’m so glad Krick acquired the old Robbe line. I finished the Neptun tug a month or so ago, and imho Krick has done a fine job resurrecting the Robbe kits. Looks like your well on your way to building a nice model.😀
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💬 Re: RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
7 months ago by Martin555 (
Commodore)
Hi,
I am looking forward to seeing your progress with this project. It looks very interesting. Good luck with the build. Martin. 👍 Like
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💬 Re: RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
6 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
Way to go Pete👍 Welcome home!
Should be fun getting all the special function possibilities working 😉 I look forward to the 'How Tos?' 😁 Doug 😎 BTW Are you SURE you should have trimmed so much off the hull? I hope you haven't cut off any moulded in bulwarks!! 😮 Don't chuck the bits away just in case! 👍 Like
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💬 Re: RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
6 months ago by MouldBuilder (
Sub-Lieutenant)
Hi Doug.
There was a formed line on the hull which was the guide for this material removal. I am happy that not too much was cut away. I am finding that the plan is not quite 1:1. This is not too much of an issue but I have come across a dimension that is given as 35mm in the instructions but measures 30mm on the plan. The plan scale is generally around 0.976:1. 👍 Like
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💬 Re: RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
6 months ago by RNinMunich (
Fleet Admiral)
Hi Pete,
If you're happy ...! I was just a bit concerned as you mentioned 'deck level' but the pics showed some bulwark mouldings! You know best, you have the 'bits' in front of you. 👍 Cheers, Doug 👍 Like
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