Nice work, keep it up.

Martin555.

Well Peter you have been a busy boy.
Submarine and boat.
You must have a big workshop to work in.
You are definitely making good progress on both projects.
Keep up the good work.

Martin555.

Hi Pete,

Your Dusseldorf is coming along nicely!

Cheers, Ed

More good stuff Peter, coming on very well👍
Odd with the motors! What capacitors were fitted then?

"I prefer solid drive connectors where possible as I believe this should reduce vibration which is often introduced through universal joints."
Hmm! Whereas I agree that universals can introduce rattling and vibration, especially the 3 part kardan couplings, or the all metal UJs. This is mostly due to bad alignment of the shafts in the first place. Otherwise a UJ or a kardan would not be necessary.
BUT; using a rigid solid coupling demands that your shaft alignment is absolutely perfect.
Otherwise due to it's rigidity any slight misalignment will cause excessive friction and wear on the shaft bearing and motor output bearing, which will ultimately lead to vibration anyway.
Not to mention wasting power to overcome the friction.
I don't like universals either. Which is why I make rigid couplings as alignment tools only and then fit a semi-rigid spiral coupling (as shown in my Sea Scout postings) for operation.
This absorbs any residual misalignment as well as providing some axial flexibility to absorb the thrust reaction from the prop. And they are totally silent and vibration free😊
I buy mine from Krick incidentally.

Acrylate glue? Never heard of it, so I looked it up🤓
Hadn't realised you are into finger nail cosmetics Pete 😮
"WHAT ARE ACRYLATES? FOUND IN: Artificial Nail Products (Acrylic Nails, Nail Enhancing Polishes). Acrylates are derived from acrylic acid and are commonly found in cosmetic nail preparations. Ethyl acrylate acts as an adhesive to apply artificial nails and eyelashes. Ethyl methacrylate and methyl methacrylate allow sculptured artificial nails to mold and adhere to the natural nail plate. " 😁😂🤣 Yo MUST post some pics of your 'scultured nails' Pete 😂🤣

I like the ghostly translucent superstructure 👍 Gives lots of scope for some interesting LED light effects.

I note that you have wired both motors the same way (polarity).
Your choice, but assuming that they run clockwise, (seen from the output shaft end) then the combined side-thrust from the two props on the downward / bottom stroke (😮) will produce a strong torque reaction causing a list to starboard and will try to push the bow to port / stern to starboard.
The latter you will have to constantly correct with the rudder. Had exactly that effect with the first runs of my destroyer, until a Retd. Cap'n RN told me to reverse the port motor!
On the other hand, you can always use this effect to do some snazzy parking!
Approach the 'dock' on the stbd. side at a slight bow on angle, give the throttle a quick blip and the side thrust should park the stern neatly on the dockside! 😊
Practise makes perfect!

Looking forward to the next instalment, cheers, Doug 😎

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You are doing a great job, coming along nicely.
However the pump that you are using could cause you problems as I have used this type of pump a couple of times and found it is not very reliable and has packed up.
Maybe I was just unlucky and had two from the same batch!

Martin.

Thanks to you both.
The pumps are Krick. I have found this company to supply quality items. Time will tell if this goes for their pumps as well.
I will show you my nails Doug. Soon. In the mean time, this glue is recommended by Krick for the water tight areas. I used it on the Pilot Boat and it has performed well so far. Well, the boat has not sunk yet.🤓

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I agree Peter,
I get a lot of stuff from Krick as well.
Prices are acceptable and delivery prompt.
I have a few of those pumps (also used in car windscreen washers).
Found that they do tend to clog in murky waters but otherwise no problem.

Funny, I'd forgotten the 'acrylate' part of Cyanoacrylate!!
Got too used to calling it CA or Gluper Sue 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎

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I forgot to mention the motor wiring. I have wired them the same polarity because I use a dual ESC so I can just swap the wires over for one of the motors. 😊
By the way. Is there a difference between Cyanoacrylate, super glue and Loctite? I saw a confusing comment in Mikes build blog.😀

Hi Pete,
"I have wired them the same polarity because I use a dual ESC so I can just swap the wires over for one of the motors."
Hmmm! OK, but it is bad practice to mix up the colours; i.e. you would end up with the plus volts on a black wire and ground on the red!😮 The load (i.e. motor) should always be wired to indicate the required supply polarity. Makes troubleshooting much easier and helps to prevent accidents or magic smoke.💥🤕

Super Glue is just the 'street name' for Cyanoacrylate glues. Must have missed Mike's comment 🤔
Don't know what Loctite is made of but it smells quite different🙈
Cheers, Doug

BTW: I have one of those Dual ESCs as well👍 It's destined for fitting to my destroyer or maybe the Southampton tug. I also have an Action Electronics dual ESC which has a built in rudder mixer. This might help the destroyer steering more than the Hobby Wing cos it only needs one stick for control of both motors and rudder with motor assisted steering!

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Thanks for the explanation Doug. I will reverse one. Do you know which, yellow or blue, is positive on the ESC.😊

Don't know yet Peter. I suspect the yellow.
I'll suck it and see 😉

Oh goody! A box of electronic goodies just arrived😊

Hi Pete,
Soooo, I have sucked 😝 and seen!
Tested my dual ESC on the motors of my Graf Spee.
Yellow is positive when going ahead, as suspected.
Cheers Doug 😎
BTW: don't forget to set the teeny weeny switches 1 and 2 to the right for Boat mode; forward / reverse with no brake!!! Switch 3 also to the right for NiMh battery, left for LiPo.
Alles klar Herr Kommissar? 😁

Thanks Doug. The Pilot Boat has one which, incidentally, is wired backwards on one motor. I remember switching the wires.😀

All's well .... 👍
After I bought my Dual Quicrun I found the Action Electronics Dual ESC with rudder mixer AND output for a 3rd (centre) motor 😠 Natch more expensive but ideal for MTBs / PTBs!
Have fun Pete, Cheers, Doug😎

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How did I manage to miss this!🙄
Great stuff Pete, your skills are going up exponentially👍
When I think back to our first discussions ... Hat off 😉

I use Grandads ancient wood gauge for jobs like that hull marking.
I have that job before me with my Deans Marine Manxman hull 😮

KUTGW 👍 Doug 😎

I’m so glad Krick acquired the old Robbe line. I finished the Neptun tug a month or so ago, and imho Krick has done a fine job resurrecting the Robbe kits. Looks like your well on your way to building a nice model.😀

Hi,
I am looking forward to seeing your progress with this project.
It looks very interesting.
Good luck with the build.
Martin.

Way to go Pete👍 Welcome home!
Should be fun getting all the special function possibilities working 😉
I look forward to the 'How Tos?' 😁
Doug 😎
BTW Are you SURE you should have trimmed so much off the hull?
I hope you haven't cut off any moulded in bulwarks!! 😮
Don't chuck the bits away just in case!

Hi Doug.
There was a formed line on the hull which was the guide for this material removal. I am happy that not too much was cut away.
I am finding that the plan is not quite 1:1. This is not too much of an issue but I have come across a dimension that is given as 35mm in the instructions but measures 30mm on the plan. The plan scale is generally around 0.976:1.

Hi Pete,
If you're happy ...!
I was just a bit concerned as you mentioned 'deck level' but the pics showed some bulwark mouldings!
You know best, you have the 'bits' in front of you. 👍
Cheers, Doug