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    RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
    by MouldBuilder ๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ ( Rear Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    23 Posts 124 Comments 110 Photos 147 Likes
    Most recent posts shown first   (Show Oldest First) (Print Booklet)
    ๐Ÿ“ Electrical installation Part 1.
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I am now focusing on the wiring of the 16 channels. I thought that seeing that the hull is 48โ€, 1.20 metres long, there would be plenty of room. This has proved not to be that case and I think if I were starting from scratch, I would add a couple of accessible platforms to attach some of the circuits. The voltage regulators are larger than anticipated but I am getting there. I still have to add the two 3s batteries that just arrived, but I am sure this will not present too much of a problem.
    I have made up a fuse and main switch assembly for the drive motor battery and added a fuse only for that ancillary battery. The cabin and hull cables are to be connected using a 25 pin plug and some wires added to the outside to carry a little more current for the search light and radar motors just in case.
    I have chosen to use 11.1 volts, LiPo 3s, batteries for both the motor circuit and equipment circuits as I want the motors separate from everything else to give a reasonable run time. The main water pump works best on 12 volts especially as it has to feed three monitors which explains the need for the regulators as most of the other motors and equipment runs at six volts.
    The sbus decoders have been fitted and the main receiver. The switch modules for the lighting and other equipment are in place but need to be connected. I am working through these one at a time. The voltage regulators are only capable of a constant 2 amp draw so I hope that the small geared motors do not stall as I really donโ€™t have much space to add additional fuses to them all. The wiring diagrams I designed and posted earlier show all of the equipment needed to make this work. I am sure that there is an easier way to achieve this without the need for some of the regulators but that is beyond my knowledge of circuitry.
    I will be continuing this work over the next couple of weeks and will update the blog then.
    The pictures were taken at different stages of the installation.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical installation Part 1.
    1 month ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks Lew for the suggestion but I must admit that task would be beyond my skill level.
    I have now fitted all of the necessary equipment into the hull so will continue as I am.
    I am just considering the electrical connections from the cabin to the hull. My original thought is being updated as the connecting wires were too rigid. I have a plan.
    There will be a few connections to make prior to running this model including the water for the two cabin mounted monitors. If anybody knows of some small quick fit water connectors for this task I am all ears.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical installation Part 1.
    1 month ago by Len ( Able Seaman)
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    Great job so far. I'm sure the rest will be just as impressive and professional. Cant wait to see further results.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical installation Part 1.
    1 month ago by LewZ ( Able Seaman)
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    Need more room in your hull? The Dusseldorf fire boat RC model is based on the original build and design of the boat. In 1979 the hull was extended. So, if you modify the model by the same amount as the real boat you would gain 8 inches (200mm) in the middle. (The superstructure was not changed although there are some other major modifications.)
    This is what I am doing to mine which I got in January 2022. It was given to me as the previous owner probably got in too deep (above his head) with all the channels and trying to use an 8 channel Spektrum RC system.
    I completely unassembled everything (fortunately he had not cemented the main deck in place) and pulled all of the wiring out. It was kind of a mess, something one would not expect with such a great model kit.
    I know of at least one other person that has lengthened his boat with all of the gear inside it.
    Lew
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical installation Part 1.
    3 months ago by figtree7nts ( Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,

    The Engine Room in your Dรผsseldorf looks very Professional!

    Great Job!!!

    Cheers, Ed-
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical installation Part 1.
    3 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Very nice installation Peter, very hard to get rid of a lot of wires which have to go to many different positions. Battery and motor wires (especially brushless) are hard to arrange tidily sometimes in confined spaces. Your distribution blocks are a good way round it for the accessory voltages.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Electrical installation Part 1.
    3 months ago by Graham93 ( Rear Admiral)
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    Wow Peter, that's a lot of equipment and connections! I can see now why you drew up those wiring diagrams. It looks to be a very neat installation, which should help to ensure you don't get your wires crossed ๐Ÿ˜‚

    Graham93
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    ๐Ÿ“ Rowing Boat
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I can honestly say that I have finished a boat. OK, it`s only the row boat for Dusseldorf but from small Acorns and all that.
    I did not like the rowlocks idea from the instructions using split pins, so I bent some brass wire and made my own.
    My colour scheme is also off plan but I think the proper design looks so dull. I am going to jazz up a couple more items as well to add a bit of eye interest.
    I have really ventured into the wiring of the 16 channels now so will post an update on that soon. I really hope to finish this project by early summer as I have so many more to get on with.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rowing Boat
    4 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Very nice job Peter, looks great.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ“ Wiring Diagram
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I had to take a trip back to the UK last week so have had little time to spare. I drove back and flew home a week later. Unfortunately I exported a Flu like virus which was a heavy chesty cold. A PCR test determined that it was not COVID.
    I have spent every bit of spare time in drawing up the wiring diagram for the sixteen functions I am using for the Dusseldorf. I just cannot help myself. I just have to draw all of the parts to scale in as much detail as possible. I just cannot stop myself. Just one more pin, oh and that capacitor.
    I will be updating this diagram in the near future as I would like to wire the anchor light to the anchor motor channel as soon as I can work out an easy way to ensure the light remains on when the anchor motor stops going down and extinguishes when the anchor is retrieved.
    I have printed pdf files of the whole drawing and two halves for clarity.
    I now have all the necessary electronics and parts to complete this boat so I hope to get moving soon.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Good luck in Australia Alistair.
    I hope you find the blog helpful.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    5 months ago by Capt-Obvious ( Recruit)
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    Greetings Peter,

    I'm very glad to have found your blog, I've just received this boat and started on it yesterday! It seems to have survived the freight from Old Blighty out to the colonies (Australia) in one piece.

    I'll be following your blog as I build mine, really appreciate your photos and description.

    Cheers,

    Alistair
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    5 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Hi Peter. Iโ€™ve not had the need for using the S-bus setup, my most complicated setup so far uses 6 channels. One of these days I might sell a few of my โ€œstashโ€ kits and tackle something like the Dรผsseldorfโ€ฆfollowing in your footsteps, as it were. Iโ€™ve not read your whole blog yet, just bits and pieces, but from what Iโ€™ve seen you are doing a very good job. I have the sneaking suspicion that the more I read the more techniques and workarounds Iโ€™ll learn, and thatโ€™s good ideas I can apply to my knowledge base. Thanks!
    Man, I really and truly want to see this thing on the water. ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks Cash. I will look into that. I think I might be getting a similar affect using S-bus where eight channels are being run from one rx connection. You can actually run 16 using this method.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    6 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Hi Peter, Iโ€™m glad I found your build, lost track of it for a while. Your paint and railings look really good, but I am truly impressed by your schematics. I need to keep an eye on what your doing so I can learn from you, anything to keep my boats insides from looking like a knotted up cat toy is a help. Really canโ€™t wait to see her on the water.
    As an aside, have you ever considered using the Graupner SXM switch? Itโ€™s a latching switch that can control 4 separate banks of lights from one channel, set up on a 3 position switch. I have one on my Neptun and Paula, works great!!
    https://www.controlhobbies.com/Four-programmeable-switching-...
    Cash
    https://www.controlhobbies.com/Four-programmeable-switching-channels-and-light-blinking-3971.html
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks.
    Yes JB. I use draftsite and draw all of the items first. I then just move or copy and place whilst adding the wires. I actually enjoy doing the drawing a lot. It took me two weeks on and off during the evenings.๐Ÿ‘
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    6 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, very nice drawings, must have taken a while? Guessing you draw one item in detail and copy it? Very easy to follow.๐Ÿ‘
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    6 months ago by Newby7 ( Admiral)
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    Sad to hear you got the flu glad not covid ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ Wiring diagrams look amazing .
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Wiring Diagram
    6 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I have not studied them but they look very professional.

    Well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Blue flashing light.
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I started by looking for a new circuit diagram on the net for an adjustable flasher. I found two candidates but both were not quite right. I decided to use information from both which was closest to the diagram I have used before when using a potentiometer for the adjustment.
    I built the circuit on a breadboard but used a 200k variable resistor instead of the 100k suggested as I didnโ€™t have one. I thought the only change would be the frequency range on the finished item. The test was good and I could get exactly what I was looking for as a flash rate.
    Next I soldered all of the components to the prototype strip board. I only had boards with longitudinal strips and not across the width. Not a major problem except for the fact I had to use more wire jumpers than usual.
    On test, the flash rate was disappointing. I looked for a problem and found that the joint for one resistor could be better. I resoldered and tested again. The result was much better but not any where near as good as the breadboard mock up. I checked the circuit and could not find any issues. I decided to leave it and have another examination in the morning.
    In the morning, I connected up the battery and it ran perfectly. I have no idea why it was not good the night before. The only explanation I have is that it was repaired by the fairies.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Blue flashing light.
    6 months ago by Newby7 ( Admiral)
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    Electrical gremlins at it again Peter. Good it works now.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Blue flashing light.
    6 months ago by dave976 ( Sub-Lieutenant)
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    Peter
    Probably a bad connection in the trim pot - they are notorious for causing intermittent faults. Could also have been a short on the breadboard that cleared when you moved the piece. A tooth brush and IPA is good for removing flux etc from a newly soldered board. Touching each connected item whilst the led is blinking will identify any dry joints.
    If it was the fairies you had better keep on their right side in future.
    Dave
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    ๐Ÿ“ Cabin and Railings
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    The summer has now finished and Autumn well underway. The weather here, although cold at night, is still mainly really pleasant. It is around 12 to 16 degrees during the day with a lot of sunshine. We have had about 8 days of rain since 1st May. I have now stopped all house and garden projects until the spring which will allow me a lot of modelling time. Don`t tell the wife I said that or I am sure a long list of inhouse jobs would arrive.
    I have spent quite a lot of my time on Dusseldorf. I have delayed the painting of the cabin until I was sure that all of the required holes had been drilled. This completed and checked 100 times, I started by priming with Tamiya fine primer. I then completed the spraying with three coats of Tamiya TS Red lacquer paint and two coats of clear. The finish looks ok but not to the standard of some I see here. I am happy though. After painting, I removed all of the window masks as soon as possible. Unfortunately, due to them having been in place for 18 months, they were hard to remove. A minor amount of paint chipping has resulted but I am sure I can tidy this up.
    The next job was to complete the railings. There are a lot on this boat, some of which are quite tricky to bend. I decided to concentrate on a pair at a time to avoid confusion. I found that the more railings I make, the better they turn out, particularly when the soldering is concerned. We all know the secret to good joints is cleanliness. Well, there is a second. Not too much solder. Took me ages to learn this one resulting in a lot of filing and polishing later. The railings I did later were much better with a lot less after work. Some of the bends required are quite large radii so I looked around and tried different items to use as a jig. Well, imagine my delight when I found the beer bottle to be perfect. I tried to convince the wife that I needed one empty bottle per bend plus some for testing. This approach failed. I then primed and painted all of the railings white.
    My attention has now turned to the massive task of wiring. I started by wiring the two motors to the ESC and connecting the rudders to their servo. Two channels down, 14 to go. I want to use two large capacity 3s LiPo batteries for this boat, one to run the motors and the other to run the remaining items. This gave me a small problem. The water pump will need to run near to its maximum voltage which is 12 volts but the remaining items require only six volts. I asked for advice on this site and within minutes, some very kind members gave me the answer. A pre-manufactured voltage regulator circuit. As my friends said, they are inexpensive. They were right. I managed to get them, with a voltage digital readout, for less than ยฃ4 each.
    I will now be sitting down and producing a wiring diagram. This, I hope, will avoid a birds nest of wires which would be very easy with all of the activities going on as here. I will publish the diagram on here so that if any kind soul has a minute, could double check it.
    This could take a while!!
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and Railings
    6 months ago by Scratchbuilder ( Captain)
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    Peter.
    Really stunning work.
    Your pictures are excellent.
    Well done.
    Regards Bill.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and Railings
    7 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    She is coming along nicely Peter.
    You have definitely got the hang of making the hand railing.
    Good try with the beer bottles, but i am sure the upper railing need the diameter of a Whisky bottle.LOL!!

    Great work.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and Railings
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I will add a picture later Len. I still have to place the wires.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and Railings
    7 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Peter,
    That puts my attempt to shame! How are you going to run the mast light wiring? I carefully cut out a small channel at the back of the mast and then drilled holes to the front then filled the channel over the wires before painting.
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ“ Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    My updates are like busses. You wait (maybe) for one and then two come along at once.
    I have attached a demonstration video show how I have finally managed to operate 16 channels using my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus transmitter. I have added a couple of pictures showing the Tx setup and the demonstration setup. I hope it comes out ok.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜€
    https://youtu.be/2uDXzbg3jvY
    https://youtu.be/2uDXzbg3jvY
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have also worked out how to operate all of the electric motors which require reversing. I was thinking about the two microswitch and servo method but then I remembered a couple of 20A ESC`s I bought some time ago. They have BSC but as this is not needed, I cut the red wire and all is good. The test I have done as in the picture was a great success. I have bought some more. They are only ยฃ6 each. Cheaper than a servo and microswitches. I will need four of these for Dusseldorf. The other functions are operated by servos so do not have the same issue.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Doug.
    This boat will use most of the 16 channels if not all.
    The following requires functional operation.

    1) The anchor raise and lower.
    2) Navigation lights.
    3) Blue flashing light.
    4) Radar rotation.
    5) Search light.
    6) Motor controls.
    7) Rudder control.
    8) Rear crane rotation.
    9) Rear crane raise and lower.
    10) Cabin monitors (2off) rotation.
    11) Cabin monitors raise and lower.
    12) Front monitor rotation.
    13) Front monitor raise and lower.
    14) Water pump.
    15) Anchor lights.
    16) Tow hook release.

    They will be used.

    On another note, does a brushless motor need suppression?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    8 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Yayyyy! ๐Ÿ˜€Well done ๐Ÿ‘
    Now; Wotcha gonna do with the other 7 channels Peter?๐Ÿ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    8 months ago by Newby7 ( Admiral)
    Flag
    My head is still spinning after watching the wonderful video Peter.
    I have trouble trying to figure out three channels let alone 16.
    ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ WOW
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    8 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
    Flag
    Wow ,Peter well done, I still do not understand but it is nice to know it can be done, have watched your utube twice and will have to watch it many more times! your FrSky Taranis transmitter seems to be easier to set up than my Graupner MC-26. so may have to spend more time studying the electronics involved.
    Have been having a rest from boats and updating/upgrading my computers and running my windows and apple systems through a single monitor,and assisting the moving and setting up the local computer recycling charity
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    8 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I am glad that you finally got it working as you want it.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ More Railings and Servo Plate Modification.
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have finally found time to do some modelling. I have been quite busy on models this week as I have almost finished the Police Launch, update to come soon, and now concentrating on Dusseldorf.
    I cannot remember if I mentioned that I did find the time earlier to spray paint the inside of the cabin with Tamiya TS Smoke. This is an attempt to hide the incredible amount of motors wires and servos inside to achieve all of the functions. I can now confirm that I have achieved the 16 channel operation I have been seeking for a long time. I will explain in the next update which hopefully will be very soon.
    Two things I have done however, is to complete the curved railing at the front of the cabin and redesigned the way in which the servo tray is held inside the cabin. The front rail I made some time ago but as the fixings all run as a radial arc and are all soldered, I was concerned about melting the plastic during soldering as they had to be done in situ. Over the past year I have been worrying about this and decided to just go for it. I assembled all of the joints and placed them onto the model. I then used crocodile clips at the front and rear to act as a heat sink. The one at the front was interfering with the joint area and would also have been soldered. This might not look too attractive with five crocodile clips permanently fixed to the railing so I ground one down to half size. The joints were made easily. What on earth was I concerned about. The last part of this job was to trim and join the side railings. I decided to solder the joiners only to the side railings so that I can remove the assembly easily should anything go wrong.
    The second thing I have done is to enable the servo tray to be removed at any time. The instructions said to glue the tray in place which I did. The problem with this is that it is extremely difficult to get at the monitor fixing bolts after fixing. They can be removed, just, but with my hands, impossible to fix back on. I decided to break the tray out again and fix with nuts and bolts. I added some additional wood blocks to the frame that the tray sits on. These were first glued in place and then I added screws for good measure. I then assembled the two monitors onto the cabin roof and fitted the plate to ensure that the monitor rotational bearings were in perfect alignment. I drilled the four fixing holes at 4.1mm diameter and then added two additional holes at 4.00mm diameter to allow me to dowel it in place for accurate alignment. I added the screws and the two dowels, which are 4mm diameter brass tube. They work perfectly. Now I can remove the servo plate easily.
    I am trying hard to prepare the cabin for painting before the cold weather settles in here. I have a window of about two more weeks. I used a rainy day to make all of the remaining hatch cover and door handles.
    Thanks for reading this and if you are still awake, well done.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Railings and Servo Plate Modification.
    8 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    Flag
    Hi Peter,
    I am a great believer in being able to get at everything so that it can be replaced or repaired.
    So good on you for making the removable component tray.

    Handrails are not the easiest things to do but you have done a really good job.
    Already looking forward to the next update.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Railings and Servo Plate Modification.
    8 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    looking good Peter, always tricky when there are lots of 'extras' to fit, especially if the hands are getting a bit stiff, ( dropped a 3mm nut 6 times last night, before getting it on the bolt๐Ÿ˜) Like you've done, I try and make as many things removable as possible, to help with later repairs or mods.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hose connecting points
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Just a small update as I have very little time for modelling at the moment.
    I have been thinking for some time how I can drill 10off 2mm diameter holes for the deck hose connectors and valve hand wheels and have them look uniform. The instructions show them just glues into the moulding (so I am told of course). I decided some time ago to add 2mm dowels into the back face and glue from the rear. I decided to make a small jig to help with positioning from 3mm plasticard.
    I started by roughly cutting out a general shape of the bottom of the moulding. I then carefully shaped it with a file until it had a snug fit. I transferred the piece onto the other side of the cabin and it fitted there also. I then carefully worked out positions and scribed the Plasticard with the centres and drilled the ten holes. I then placed the jig into the recess and carefully transferred the holes through. I repeated this on the other side. I am pleased with the results. I think the valves, reported on an earlier post, and the hand wheels should look good.
    Next, I plan to try to paint the inside face of all of the windows to give a smoked glass effect. I hope this will hide all of the mechanisms necessary for the functions.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    11 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Peter,
    That is how I did it, so great minds think alike(except smoking glass), still playing and trying to hide and/shorten wires also seeing if I can reduce number of batteries!
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    11 months ago by figtree7nts ( Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,

    I like that idea!

    May, I recommend Tamiya PS-31 SMOKE!

    It comes in a small spray can!

    This should help with smoking the windows!

    Cheers, Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    11 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    Great way to transfer the holes.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    11 months ago by Newby7 ( Admiral)
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    Fine detail Looking to see more.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ“ Small Rowing Boat
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Before I left for Hungary, I did manage to find a little time to work on Dusseldorf. I decided to take a break from railings and start on the small rowing boat.
    The first thing to do was to cut and file the top edge of the forming to the correct height. This proved to be quite a task as I do not have the confidence to cut too close and end up with a lot of filing. I was very happy with the finished item. Next was to add a keel made from scrap material. Once again, I did not cut too close. I first formed the hull shape on the inside edge of the piece by careful filing. I placed the assembly to the light until I was happy with the fit and glued into place. Then, once again by filing, I profiled the bottom edge.
    The next task was the oars. These were made using pre-formed plastic parts for the blades and two pieces of 2mm wood rod for the shafts. The last few millimetres were filed to half of the diameter. The blades were then glued on and the whole assembly tidied up.
    The duck boards were next. I had treated all of the wood strips earlier with stain. I cut all of the necessary parts to length and carefully glued them together using a scrap piece of plastic as a template for the gap between planks. For the foot board inside of the rowing boat, additional forming was required. The files came out again. The plans were not good for scale here and I found that one fewer plank was required than that drawn.
    My next session will be in Hungary. I have no idea when. (I do really as I did a little today). First time I have found time here to do anything. I ran out of time to post this before I left.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Small Rowing Boat
    11 months ago by figtree7nts ( Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,

    Excellent workmanship!

    What great looking details!

    Cheers, Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Small Rowing Boat
    11 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    That is a nice model for a model.
    I like seeing the amount of work that is involved it making some of the detail work.
    Keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Small Rowing Boat
    11 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Nice job sheโ€™s coming along. Really want to see this one in the water.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ“ Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have finally found some time to get on with some modelling. My house is now in turmoil whilst we pack everything getting ready for the big move to Hungary.
    My main task ahead is to prepare the cabin for painting.
    This can only be carried out successfully, in my mind anyway, if all of the holes needed to fit all of the additional parts, especially the railings, have been drilled.
    The centre monitor grating has tabs all around to hold the semi-circular rail posts. These posts then continue and are drilled through the cabin roof.
    To do this, I fitted the grating in place and aligned it as accurately as I could. I then used my milling machine and carefully drilled all of the holes right through. This worked very well.
    To make these curved rails, I bent the 1.5mm brass rod around a 65mm diameter spray can.
    The result was almost spot on for the 125mm diameter required. I then straightened the ends in line with the plan.
    The post tubes were cut to around 65mm and the burrs cleaned away.
    The posts and railings were then fitted together and fixed with 1mm split pins with the legs of the pins going inside of the tubes. I then set the post height with two blocks of wood at the correct height.
    I then place crocodile clips onto the tubes to act as heat sinks whilst I soldered all of the joints.
    I have used a very similar process to produce all of the other cabin railings. The rear monitor has a small railing which is also curved. I made this in a similar way using the plan as a guide for the positions of the bends.
    This did cause a little problem though. How to drill the post positions accurately in the cabin roof.
    I decided to trace around the shape of this bent railing and then place it accurately on the roof. I marked the post positions onto the paper and transferred these marks onto the roof and drilled. They worked out quite well.
    I marked out all of the remaining fixing holes from the plan using the height gauge I made for the Gato build and drilled these also. I use the clips as heat sinks on all of the joints so as not to melt the plastic around the posts. I have some joints to solder which are only 5mm from the hole in the cabin. I will have to come up with a plan B for these, my next job.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by AllDayFunHobbies ( Recruit)
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    Beautiful work. Keep it up.
    BannerMarty
    ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘โ›ต
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Much too late when I wrote it as well CDR ๐Ÿ˜
    Carry on as you go๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Thatโ€™s okay Fleet, it was late when I read the post and I read it as Commander. ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice going Peter๐Ÿ‘
    She's looking really business like now.
    All ship shape and Dรผsseldorf fashion๐Ÿ˜‰
    Some neat techniques as well.

    BTW My place is ALWAYS in turmoil - an' I ain't moving nowhere!
    Good luck with the move ๐Ÿคž
    Sok sikert a kรถltรถzรฉshez. (I hope๐Ÿ˜)
    S'pose it's been delayed somewhat by Corona blockades etc๐Ÿค”
    All the best, Cheers & รœdv, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Oops!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Belay that last order Commander Cash!
    I'm afraid I accidentally bumped you three ranks.๐Ÿค”
    Sorry about that๐Ÿ˜”
    I'm gonna keelhaul that Staff Captain๐Ÿ˜ 
    So here is your correct insignia, and as consolation prize at least your first Brass-Hat.๐Ÿ˜‰
    All the best in your new / old duties CDR Cash.
    FLEET//๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Thanks Fleet. I will strive to execute my duties faithfully and honorably.๐Ÿ™‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Congratulations Commodore Cash๐Ÿ‘
    Herewith your Pennant and new insignia.
    BRAVO ZULU!๐Ÿ˜€
    Cheers, FLEET ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    I guess Lt jg Errol Feline will now be demanding promotion to Lt Commander!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Martin has a good idea. Iโ€™ve used CA before in lieu of solder on some railings, long as they are not in a position to be stressed or under tension they hold up well, and paint or clear coat seals the joint.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Hi Peter. Youโ€™re Dรผsseldorf is coming along nicely!! Iโ€™ve always wanted one, it seems a daunting task to fit that boat out with pumps, lights, etc but youโ€™re doing a nice job. Youโ€™re railings look spot on, and I agree with you on the Tamiya paints. The rattle cans are pricey, but they cover well, and dry quickly. Like you, I have a FrSky transmitter, a Taranis Qx7, it has a multi protocol module installed that I purchased off RCgroups a few months back, works well. Iโ€™ve never used the Sbus, might try that. However, I turn 60 this Monday, and saved up a bit for a new boat kit and radio. I picked up the Radiomaster 16s with the Hall gimbals. Iโ€™ve booted it up and played around with it, uses OpenTX as its operating system. Iโ€™m accustomed to OpenTX, but itโ€™s set up a little different than the Taranis, so my buddy JP is coming over to guide me thru transferring my models from the Taranis to the Radiomaster. JP knows OpenTX inside and out, so we shouldnโ€™t have any issues. Iโ€™ll give more info once weโ€™re done, if you like.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have a plan. I will make a few fixtures from steel with the correct hole centres and solder all of the joints that way. Remove from fixture and fit. Possibly.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Certainly a few tricky shapes in there Peter, but looking great so far.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    You have done a fantastic job Peter.
    Considering it was a job you were not looking forward to doing.
    They look excellent.

    As for your plan 'B' if you find you cannot solder the joints then maybe a drop of CA or a tiny dab of epoxy.
    After all when they have been painted no one will know.


    Martin555.
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