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    RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
    by MouldBuilder πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ ( Commodore)
    πŸ“£










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    πŸ“ Painting the small fittings
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    I have made a start on painting the small items prior to fitting. I have decided, as usual, to use some of my own colour ideas. I find the Dusseldorf too `red` so I have changed a few things. I have used mainly Tamiya TS spray paints on top of Tamiya fine primer. The results are pleasing. For the silver I used a left over Humbrol spray can. The result is very disappointing as you can see in the photographs. I will leave them as they are as they are such small parts and I am sure will not be seen in the middle of the Danube.
    Whilst preparing the fire hose connectors for painting, of which there are twelve, I thought that they looked bland without any detail. I decided to use a new design idea from the Vospers design department to improve their appearance. I turned up some small brass inserts to go into the centre hole and then inserted some old pin inserts into the centre to give some interest. This centre pin will also be used to position and fix them in place. They do not look too bad but the horrible paint finish does spoil them a little. I might be forced to revisit them before final fitting.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Painting the small fittings
    1 month ago by Newby7 ( Captain)
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    Your right that on the Danube you won't see the parts.For me if its past 3 ft away I don't see.The parts look good.
    Rick
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Painting the small fittings
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    Well it is good to see you are making progress.
    The paint Finnish dose not look to bad but then that could be your Camera LOL!!!

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    As one of our fellow members was experiencing a little difficulty in sorting out the electrical connections for the multiple channels required to run the Dusseldorf, I thought it was time that I should make a start myself. Usually I will wire everything up and fit the RC connections at the end. This is a model with an extreme quantity of functioning gadgets so I decided that I should make a start.
    I was always going to use my Taranis X9D Plus transmitter but was not sure whether to use two X8R receivers or one receiver and the s-bus connection. I purchased all of the gear for both methods as I knew that I would use the spare parts on a later project.
    Last evening, and after reading the other members difficulties with decoders, I decided to go the s-bus route. I wired up the decoders to a channel changer and found it to be relatively easy to use. I have two four channel s-bus decoders which will be wired together with a `Y` cable which in turn is plugged into the receiver s-bus port. The two decoders will be channels nine to twelve and thirteen to sixteen. Channels one to eight will be via the X8R.
    My next challenge is to figure out how to assign all of the switches and devices to the correct channels and more importantly, how to do it. The instructions supplied with the Taranis are next to useless. Fortunately, the Taranis has enough switches etc to cover for all sixteen channels, if you use the trainer switch.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    1 month ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Mouldbuilder,
    How did you get on with the programming, I am still having difficulties and being helped by G6SW( see Graupner Mc-26 on Forum)
    If your system worked OK, did you make a wiring diagram? as I nearly ditched my transmitter so may try your system!
    len
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Mouldbuilder, getting support,see graupner 26 forum, might help you as well!
    Len
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Am I missing something?
    Going onto "switch display" it shows which switches have been allocated (in my case 2,7,9,11and15 all preset by model basic settings). I then go to"Control switch" and select the line(assume C3 means channel3) enter set get message "move desired control adj" operate switch required, it should get an abbreviation of the control, press set. Nothing happens!
    Had A mate look, he thinks the wiring is OK but still does not understand the switch problem either, hence this question πŸ”₯
    Bombero
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Mould builder
    Have found the Graupner switch model has twice the connection because it switches on or grd, the Robbe will switch to forward to backwards!
    Also where I want the micro motors run forward and backward I need a "polarityinversion" cable for each one ( need 3 for Dusseldorf)
    So if I am right I am slowly proceeding and coming to grips with the Graupner system!
    WIRES EVERYWHERE😊😊😊
    Len
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Hi Peter. I have found the 9XR to be a pretty good radio. I bought them when they first came out, along with spare boards, switches, gimbals etc. Haven't had to use the spares yet, but handy to have as they were very cheap replacements. I have a Futaba 6EX which has a tiny screen and painful programming method,- don't like it as much as the 9X or 9XR.

    The JR module is supposed to have a range of around 2.5 KM and I've never had any range problems, even though I tend to fly quite a long way away from myself.

    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Just remembered JB, I also have a 9XR. I forgot I had it as I shipped it to Hungary a couple of years ago. I run my Pilot Boat with it.
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks for that Bruce. That ESC looks quite useful. I have purchased a Hobbyking 860 dual ESC for my Dusseldorf. I do not think you can use the outputs interdependently on this one though. Cannot really see the point of having dual outputs if the have to run together. Yours seems a much better proposition.
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks for that JB. I do not think the X9D Plus has hidden menus but perhaps it does and they are hiding really well.
    I really am a novice at programming any RC device but I tend to do most of my research and learning once I hit problems.
    I will take your advice and write down what I learn as I go as there is one thing I do know for sure and that is that the Taranis instructions are less than useless. I have found some very good instructions which have been written by the Open TX group, I think.
    I am a little worried if you are using the JR module whilst flying a plane though. Out of sight sounds quite bad.😁
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Interesting stuff on the Aloft site Bruce. (couldn't find the boat stuff) Don't think I'll be updating any of my TXs (9x and 9xr, plus a new 9xr in the box)) as they are reliable as they are (apart from replacing a slightly off gimbal in the 9xr). I've read dozens of posts over the years where people have 'updated' firmware and had crashes. I tend to leave well enough alone and have no problems. Used to manage with a brown box Futaba 6ch, - don't know how😁. like cars I think, - more tech, more to go wrong😁 I used to see guys at our heli club spend more time fiddling with fancy $2500 Futaba radios than actually flying😐

    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Bruce,
    I am unable to open the two links.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by bruce1946 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I have the Frsky Taranis 9d+ and it is not easy to program. I'm using 2, 8 channel recvrs on mine and using Open TX to do the programing with a friends help. I bought the user manual thru Aloft that helps. https://alofthobbies.com/taranis-plus-user-manual.html.
    Go to this forum https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php?conversations/boat-... and see what aloft tech says to do to program my radio for my boat
    https://alofthobbies.com/taranis-plus-user-manual.html.
    πŸ”—
    https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php?conversations/boat-details.173/#convMessage-959
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    will do thanks, regarding manually controlling them I do not have room for a dinghy and get seasick easily, used to crew in an enterprise sailing dinghy Ok but anything over 20 foot is a no/no even on calm water
    Lenβ›΅
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, if the Taranis is anything like the 'TGY' (Flysky in disguise I think) 9XR, you'll have a bit of fun with the programming. The biggest problem is remembering what you did, where you did it, and what happened when you did it. One thing I used mine for, was to operate flaperons on one of my planes, which required up elevator to compensate, -took me hours of playing to figure it out.

    I found the best way was to write everything down as I did it. Not sure if the Taranis has 'hidden' menus, (menus within menus) but they are a pain as you have to highlight an item, adjust it and remember to save it, plus remember where it was. Good thing is, you can assign any switch to any position, and mix anything with anything, and once you get the idea, it's a handy device. I especially like the servo 'stepping' feature which can speed up or slow down a servos movement. I have an idea that it was an early version (pre production perhaps) of the Taranis and is designed to be used as an open source TX. I've fitted mine with a JR module, and the range is 'out of sight'

    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by bruce1946 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I ordered my reciever through Aloft hobbies in califonia. they have a great forum https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php and aloft hobbies have been very helpful in setting up my radio. I ordered my ESC for my motors thu Harbor models In Ca. Sabertooth 2X25 the company that makes this also has a 2X35 that is even better than mine now. https://www.harbormodels.com/de225.html
    Good luck hope this helps.
    https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php
    πŸ”—
    https://www.harbormodels.com/de225.html
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Hi Len.
    Have a look at the log of Bruce1946. He has approached the problems from yet another direction. Apart from those dodgy characters that have pirated the boat, he has managed a lot more functions by separating the lighting and manually controlling them instead.
    Having seen that, perhaps we had better put all of the functions onto one big switch.😊
    As for NASA Martin, I will give them a go. Must be very similar to operating a space craft.
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Maybe a phone call to NASA to see if they could help Peter LOL!!

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Planning the electrics
    2 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Ordered a 16 receiver on Saturday heard today it probably won’t be in till end of year ( website still shows they still have them in stock)! So back to try to sort original setup! Found out a mate might be able to help so sent him the information so he can study my problems ( back in lockdown so will give us something to do) . Will try to understand what you are doing even though I have different equipment,
    good luck,
    LEN
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    πŸ“ Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Time passes really quickly lately for me. I am sure that those locked inside cannot say the same thing. I have, however, been suffering from a serious lack of motivation similar to that of Martin. I try to fight it but just sitting on my backside seems to win too often.
    I have decided to try to break away from this and get on. I have been doing a little modelling and this is the progress, or lack of, over the past four months.
    I have been concentrating on the cabin and making up all of the fittings. The radar is made up of several flat discs glued together and then formed using files and sand paper. I then had to drill several holes through the cabin roof, two of which had to be 12mm diameter. This would rip the thin plastic to pieces so a plan was required. I decided to buy a tapered hand reamer, tapered from 6mm to 16mm. I drilled the holes as large as I dare, about 8mm, and then slowly opened them up to 11.5mm. Then I found that once again I was suffering for not having read through the instructions beforehand. As the plastic is so thin walled and the parts attaching through the holes were so large, I should have glued some supporting wood to the inside roof of the cabin and drilled the holes through these also. I quickly made some support blocks from 12mm ply and struggled for ages to glue them to the ceiling above the servo plate already fitted earlier. I MUST learn to read the instructions first.
    I then decided to glue the foredeck down which meant I had to fit the angled brass anchor guide tubes. I thought this would be difficult, as I had already painted the deck, and it was. I now know why the painting is done after assembly. I have always feared the masking. Well I did damage the paint during the filing of the ends of the tubes to match the deck and the hull. I accepted the fact that a full repaint was required and also decided to change the colour below the waterline to black. The masking is shown in the pictures but I found the Tamiya masking tape invaluable. I followed the contours of the deck to gunwale using 5mm wide tape which you can follow the curves with relatively easily. Once that line was done I increased the tape to 12mm wide and carried on with this until a good footing for cellotape was achieved. I then stuck down a covering of A4 paper cut to shape to cover the rest. This was not as bad as I thought it would be so I have learned a valuable lesson. Assemble the main parts and then paint, very much in line with all of the modelers who have been doing it for years.
    I plan to improve my state of mind now and get on. I will concentrate on finishing the cabin so that I can finally paint it. I want to finish the main build by Christmas. No hope really!!
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    2 months ago by brianupyonder ( Warrant Officer)
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    looks very nice
    brianπŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    2 months ago by bruce1946 ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    great job I have been delayed on finishing my dusseldorf and doing a little each week. it has slowed down since i got into getting the monitors operating. keep up the good work
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    2 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    MouldBuilder,
    How is the Dusserdorf progressing? I have ordered a 16 channel receiver as I cannot understand how the 16 channel switch module is wired to the 8 channel receiver only need 16 channels!
    Len
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hopefully problem solved, got the Graupner mc-26 actually workingπŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Have just YELLED on forum!
    😭
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    " ... but am wondering if the RC system is beyond my capabilities."
    Somehow I doubt that very much LenπŸ˜‰
    But if you do get stuck just YELL.
    We always seem to be able to muddle through with a community effort!😊
    Cheers, Doug 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Been having fun wiring up the 20 pin connector block( glad I got the 20 pin bock as only have 2 pins not used).
    Next problem I have got is the wiring up to the receiver so the transmitter will talk and operate my boat. Unfortunately my knowledge of this side of boat building is very limited, the wiring diagram supplied is for a Robbe Futaba F-14a with a 8 channel receiver and Robbe multi switch decoder
    (No longer available) an replaced by a Graupner mc-26 with a GR-16 HOTT receiver and a 3972 16 channel switch,
    Hopefully the receivers are similar but the decoders are different layout( the Robbe has a power at one end and nine sockets at the other,whilst the Graupner has nine sockets at each end???
    and I have emailed Krick who supplied it and hopefully they will advise and update the plan. Then the fun of trying to program the Mc-26( I am using a simple two channel system to check the connections to make sure the are wired correctly)
    I enjoyed constructing the boat but am wondering if the RC system is beyond my capabilities.
    Len
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I agree with Mouldbuilder Bombero, so far so pretty goodπŸ‘
    Ex Fireman living in Spain!
    What else could your User Name be than Bombero!!?πŸ˜‰
    (For the rest of you, nowt to do with the Bomb Squad 😁)
    Salud, Doug 😎
    BTW Welcome back LenπŸ˜€
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    As I thought Bombero, you have made a super job of your Dusseldorf.πŸ‘πŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work bombero.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hello MouldBuilder,
    Hope the two pictures appear!
    I completed an apprentiship as a fitter and turner in 1964 and was working in"tenths of a thousand" so can sympathise, joined the UK fire service retired and moved to Spain 2007.
    In my younger days I started several model boats and never completed them, five years ago I decided to try again and built a radio controlled caldercraft "Joffre"which I completed and decided to try to build the dusseldorf fire boat ( a big step up)a year ago so you can see the results. The wiring is everwhere as I had extended the wires and will sort and shorten them when the connecting block arrives. THEN I have to sort out where the wires go and set up the transmitter(also a big step up from a two channel "Sanwa Sabre)🀞
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by jbkiwi ( Admiral)
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    Coming along nicely Peter, starting to look like a boat.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by marky ( Commodore)
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    Well said ,as one who bumbles along until things look right.
    Cheers MarkπŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    And I'll third it PeterπŸ‘
    😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    There are no judges here, just helpers and givers of encouragement.

    Well said Peter, i second that.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Hi Bombero.
    I have been on this build for a year now and have found it quite challenging. Thanks for your kind comments but I am sure that you under estimate the quality of your own. I find some things very difficult to do such as painting. Some guys efforts on this site put mine to shame but it all seems to be about patience and time spent in preparation. I have neither so have accepted that it would not stand up to too close a scrutiny.
    I have decided to go away from the Krick guide to electronics and although I have bought most of the kit, have no idea as to how I am going to do it yet suffice to say that I am using a Frsky 16 channel Tx with two 9 channel Rx`s. I also have all of the sbus decoders just in case I change my mind.
    I have a bit of a mental issue whilst building models. For work, I manufacture very fine detailed mould tools for N Gauge and OO9 Gauge wagons and track and OO Gauge and O gauge track. This requires concentration on such small detailing. At home I try to carry on with this degree of care but time restricts this. I already have the reputation of never finishing anything, fairly I think, but this would be even more true if I did. Also I do not have much patience.
    It would be great to see your efforts on this site. You must remember that there are many different levels of ability and experience on this site and most are eager to help to develop us relative starters with ours. I have had a lot of invaluable help on this site, most of which the helpers are unaware of as it is by reading the build blogs of the experts we can learn so much.
    Please show us what you have been up ,to. There are no judges here, just helpers and givers of encouragement.πŸ‘πŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Moved to this thread on behalf of bombero. (Admin)


    Not a great writer but have been following your construction with interest, have finished main build of my dusseldorf and now sorting the electrics!
    I purchased the Graupner mc-26 16 channel HoTT 2.4 ghz transmitter,,GR 16 reciever and16 channel switch module( as recommended by Krick) as the system supplied in the build notes, "futaba F-14" is no longer available.Now have to sort connections as the wiring diagram supplied with the boat shows a "robbe"multiswitch 16 decoder with 9 sockets at one end and a lead from the receiver at the other end, and the graupner16 channel switch module has 9 sockets at each end! I am also going to connect the wiring from the cabin through a 10 connecter block so can remove the cabin without wires everywhere.
    Noticed the quality of your build, it puts mine to shame, might have to get another kit so I can correct the errors and order of construction!!!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and repaint
    3 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I am pleased to see you have a bit of motivation back.
    The red and black hull looks good.
    As for reading instructions, I think we are all a little guilty of skipping through them.
    Some times it is best as they can be very misleading and wrong at times.

    When you have mastered how to improve your state of mind could you then share it with the rest of us LOL!!!

    It is nice to see you have done a bit to her and i look forward to more updates.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Tow Hook
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Managed a little work over the past few weeks in between improving my workshop and the Gato Submarine. I started to assemble the tow hook which has an automatic release. The instructions show a wire spring which has to be made from a small steel rod supplied. I bent it to shape and fitted it, after adjusting the hooks to make room for it, and gave it a test. I would have needed a hydraulic cylinder to get this arrangement to function. There is no way a servo could have moved it. I decided to modify the system.
    Firstly, I epoxy glued the parts I had adjusted to get the spring wire in place and filed and drilled them back to as they were. I then drilled a 2.7mm diameter hole to accept a 2.2mm diameter by 0.31mm wire diameter spring by 15mm long. See photo. The bar down which you have to drill is only 3mm wide so care is required. Care is also required regarding the depth of this hole so that the spring does not rest against the central brass column which the tow hook swivels around. I have now dropped the spring in place and reassembled the unit. This is a much better solution. It now works very well and does not take too much force to activate.
    Next job is to shape and fit the anchor guides. Another job I have not been looking forward to. I can then fix down the fore deck and complete the painting of the hull.😊
    Peter.
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    πŸ“ Special Functions
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Work has taken priority over the past several weeks but I have managed to get some work done on the project from time to time. My focus has been on the special functions.
    First, I completed the front monitor by adding the servo unit and the drive mechanisms. The instructions do have most of the information but due to there being so many parts and these being referred to only by their part number, I found it best to separate all of the required parts and dry assemble before committing to glue. All went well and I connected the servos to see how it functioned. There was a little slippage of the but generally went well. To reduce the slippage. The drive cord is tensioned by a spring connection. After putting more pre-tension on this spring, the slippage was eliminated.
    The dual monitors were next on the list but I decided on a change. Bring on the crane.
    I separated all of the parts and built the crane as a test. All seemed good so I disassembled and painted, my own colour choices I might add. Then I assembled the running gear frame and dry fitted the two motors for testing. I noticed that one of the motors was taller than the plan and would need to go right through the base plate and be seen from the top going through the deck. I decided top do my first basic scratch build. Not to the standard of many on this site, but little acorns and all that. I decided to invent a crane inspection hatch. I made it from scrap pieces of ABS. (No yoghurt pots to hand). I then wired the motors and added suppressors to each. The whole unit was now built and connected up to the TX. It works very well. A little juddery on rotation but I will look at that later. An elastic band doubled up provides the drive so I think it might be slipping slightly on the pulleys.
    I have now started to assemble the double monitor unit. I have assembled the servo plate and installed it. I have fitted the lower running bearings and completed a test assembly, with the gratings, onto the cabin roof. Looks good so I will try to complete this for the next update.
    One piece of advice for all those making this model. You will come to a point on the monitors that you will have to solder a tiny tube inside a larger diameter tube. This small tube takes the thread that will operate the raising and lowering of the monitors. Check multiple times before you glue these into the monitor heads as the instructions and plans do not agree. Watch which side the servo arm is fixed and work out these tube positions before gluing to the monitors.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Special Functions
    9 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    No Yogurt pots!!! That will never do. LOL!!

    Rubber bands do tend to bunch up and then give and that will also cause the juddering.

    It looks like you will have servos coming out of your ears LOL!

    Nice work,

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Monitors nearly there.
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    I have now finished the repainting of the monitors and I am pleased with the results. Thanks to Martin555 for posting how he removes splitlines and ejector marks from his mouldings. This made me feel that I was being lazy for not doing this. The results are a massive improvement. I used small needle files and 400 wet and dry to do this and then remove the shine from all of the parts to help the paint.
    For the painting I first used Tamiya Fine Primer. The finish was excellent. I then used Tamiya plastic spray in Italian Red. I gave everything two coats of this followed by two coats of clear gloss.
    I have now cold assembled all of the monitors and filed where necessary to ensure free movement. This is critical for when I fit all of the servo-controlled movements. My next job will be to finally fix them together with glue and connect the servos. First, Though, I had to fit the silicone tubes through the brass tubes. Not too difficult you would think but the silicone tube is bigger in diameter than the brass tube they go through. I followed the instructions from Mike given below but I could only get them about half way through before either the tube failed or the thread broke. I tried several ways to connect them but finally succeeded when wrapping the thread tightly near to one end, as described by Mike, but then adding soap to the tube as well. This was successful. The Brass tube is 120mm long. This is the shortest one of the three, the longest being 180mm. Should be good if I follow a similar principle.
    The actuating mechanisms have now been built and primed and the servos added. My next task is to complete the operating mechanisms, assemble the monitors and fix them to their gratings. I will try to complete this soon.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Monitors nearly there.
    3 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Make sure the monitors are realy loose on their vertical movements, I have had to dismantle them and adjust them as they would not work and found they have to drop easily without any support!😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Monitors nearly there.
    9 months ago by bombero ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Hi ALL,
    I am also starting to build one of these boats during the lockdown (I am English and live in Spain)and am very interested in your helpful information. I previously built a Billing "joffre"tug
    Len🀞😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Monitors nearly there.
    10 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Those monitors really look good.
    Well worth all the extra effort you went through.
    A job well done.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Fitting the Deck.
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    I am still working on the monitors at the moment. Removing the ejector marks and the visible split lines has been quite a job. The final result prior to painting looks good. It is a shame that I have had to do this improvement as the mouldings were the perfect colour to start with.
    I fitted the rear main deck a couple of weeks ago and now it was time to fit the forward deck. It was a surprise to find that it was about 6mm too large, around 3mm all around. I spent the best part of 4 hours carefully filing the shape and bevelling the edge to fit. It looks good but I will wait a while before fixing it as there are a few functions underneath.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting the Deck.
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Hi John.
    I hope your Dusseldorf has arrived.
    Do you intend to activate all of the functions. I am currently improving the monitors. I have finished all of the painting of them now but having a nightmare trying to install the silicone tubes.
    Good luck with the build and if you come up against a problem just ask as I might have hit the same.😊
    Peter.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fitting the Deck.
    11 months ago by Jgels ( Recruit)
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    Hello my name is John from Ohio USA. I'm patiently waiting for my Dusseldorf to arrive, its about 2 weeks late as of today.
    I have been watching your build and it is looking great ! Its a shame you had to go through all that extra work on the deck.
    Keep up the good work.
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    πŸ“ Building the monitors
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Having a little break from the Submarine and getting on with Dusseldorf. In my last update I had started on the decking area for the three monitors. I have now tidied these up and trimmed all of the planks to size. I will satin varnish these to complete soon. I have started to assemble the three monitors now. They are really neat little assemblies and manufactured using red polymer. They look good enough to use as is but after reading another blog, I decided that they would look even better when all of the join lines and ejector pin marks were hidden. I have used 400 wet and dry paper and smoothed out all of the faces. I have roughed up all of the faces to help the paint stick properly. There are a lot of faces to do so will take a while. I have completed most of the assembly but will finish after painting.
    The main tube which carries the silicone water tube, also has a much smaller tube fitted inside. Both tubes are brass so I decided to fix by soft soldering. Due to the heat required, I used my soldering centre with the iron set to 360 degrees C. I first tinned both the inside of the 7mm tube and the outside of the 1mm tube, (the small tube carries an operating thread to raise and lower the nozzle with spring assistance). I then placed the small tube inside the large and soldered in place by holding the iron in place for about twenty seconds adding a little solder to the joint. This was successful. I did all three tubes like this.
    This weekend I will try to complete the monitors. As I have to paint them, I might not manage this. I still have to figure out how I can get the silicone tube through the brass tube. It fitted well earlier but now that the small tube is soldered inside, it will not go in easily. The longest brass tube is 160mm.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Building the monitors
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks Cash. I will be very careful.πŸ‘
    Interesting about the pumps being cheaper on ebay. Another one to watch.
    Good luck with the build Chumbucket. Do you plan, like me, to get all of the functions working?
    Peter.😊
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Building the monitors
    11 months ago by Cashrc ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Also, if you’re going to make your monitors move vertically, be very careful with the return spring. It’s very light, and when I was testing the movement in the Dolly I let the servo move too much. The resultant slack in the monofilament actuating thread got caught in the spring and I didn’t catch it, so the next time I lowered the nozzle it got caught in the spring and damaged it. Just a heads up.
    Cash
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Building the monitors
    11 months ago by Cashrc ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Peter. That pump is the standard one Krick sells, I have one in my Neptune and in my Dolly. The one in the Dolly gave me some trouble, but I’m pretty sure I ran it too long dry on the bench. I think I have it fixed now, however, we’ll see later. Anyway, that pump is also used for windshield washers that have an external pump, like a retro fit for classic cars. Both Amazon and the aftermarket parts houses have it for considerably less than Krick sells it for. Part number SI-A0050.
    Cash
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Building the monitors
    11 months ago by chumbucket ( Leading Seaman)
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    Im interested in this build,just picked one up at Harbor Models last week,should be here soon.I belong to the PMPBA Boat club here in Portland Oregon
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Building the monitors
    12 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work, I am looking forward to seeing them in operation.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Building the monitors
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks for that Mike. Wondered how to get the tube through.
    The pump is a Krick 6 to 12 volt dc with a flow rate of 1200ml/min. I assume this is at 12 v, probably less at 6v. Krick recommend this pump for three monitors. I hope they are right.😁
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Building the monitors
    12 months ago by mturpin013 ( Commodore)
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    To get the silicon tube through, tie very tightly a piece of strong cotton thread around the end of the silicon tube, then thread the cotton through the brass tube, pull on the tread at the same time holding the other end which will stretch the silicon tube reducing its diameter, then keeping stretched feed through the brass tube😜
    PS can we see the pump please and its spec.
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    πŸ“ Starting on the decking.
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Just a small update. I started to do some of the final painting coats. I know that most members save this until the end but masking a completed model fills me with dread. I have finished the hull bottom, the bulwark and the deck. I will glue the deck in place next.
    I have started the wood decking for the three monitors. I first stained the wood and then cut and stuck strips to the base plates. I have now started to trim and form the inner bore and the outside shape. Unfortunately, I had a little accident. I cut one of the holes tabs off of one base. I tried to stick it back on but failed. I have now made a new small tab from scrap and will stick it on when they are complete.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting on the decking.
    12 months ago by Cashrc ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    She’s looking good, really want to see this one in the water.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Starting on the decking.
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work, keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    πŸ“ Completing the Hull ready for the Deck.
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Did a little work on the Dusseldorf, It`s been a while. I fitted the Anchor winch assembly into the hull. I tried it first and the 1:400 geared motor gives a good representation of speed. I then fixed in the remaining electronics platforms. Things are starting to look a little better now. I then drilled holes and slotted with files the water drainage for the deck. I must admit I was dreading this but I am happy to say that the results are good.
    I know that a lot of people do not agree with me but I find painting of certain parts much easier before assembly. I have primed the hull and deck pieces and will finish painting before I assemble. I used this method on the Pilot boat and was fairly successful. The one area I did have a glue accident, I covered with a no scripted life raft container. I will take more care when applying glue this time.
    I have started to finish paint the deck pieces which I hope to fit soon.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Completing the Hull ready for the Deck.
    1 year ago by figtree7nts ( Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,

    Your Dusseldorf is coming along nicely!

    Cheers, Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Completing the Hull ready for the Deck.
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Well Peter you have been a busy boy.
    Submarine and boat.
    You must have a big workshop to work in.
    You are definitely making good progress on both projects.
    Keep up the good work.

    Martin555.
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