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    RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
    by MouldBuilder ๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ ( Rear Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ“ฃ










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    18 Posts 102 Comments 110 Photos 111 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    18 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    My updates are like busses. You wait (maybe) for one and then two come along at once.
    I have attached a demonstration video show how I have finally managed to operate 16 channels using my FrSky Taranis X9D Plus transmitter. I have added a couple of pictures showing the Tx setup and the demonstration setup. I hope it comes out ok.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜€
    https://youtu.be/2uDXzbg3jvY
    https://youtu.be/2uDXzbg3jvY
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    17 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have also worked out how to operate all of the electric motors which require reversing. I was thinking about the two microswitch and servo method but then I remembered a couple of 20A ESC`s I bought some time ago. They have BSC but as this is not needed, I cut the red wire and all is good. The test I have done as in the picture was a great success. I have bought some more. They are only ยฃ6 each. Cheaper than a servo and microswitches. I will need four of these for Dusseldorf. The other functions are operated by servos so do not have the same issue.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    17 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Doug.
    This boat will use most of the 16 channels if not all.
    The following requires functional operation.

    1) The anchor raise and lower.
    2) Navigation lights.
    3) Blue flashing light.
    4) Radar rotation.
    5) Search light.
    6) Motor controls.
    7) Rudder control.
    8) Rear crane rotation.
    9) Rear crane raise and lower.
    10) Cabin monitors (2off) rotation.
    11) Cabin monitors raise and lower.
    12) Front monitor rotation.
    13) Front monitor raise and lower.
    14) Water pump.
    15) Anchor lights.
    16) Tow hook release.

    They will be used.

    On another note, does a brushless motor need suppression?
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    18 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Yayyyy! ๐Ÿ˜€Well done ๐Ÿ‘
    Now; Wotcha gonna do with the other 7 channels Peter?๐Ÿ˜‰
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    18 days ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    My head is still spinning after watching the wonderful video Peter.
    I have trouble trying to figure out three channels let alone 16.
    ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ WOW
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    18 days ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Wow ,Peter well done, I still do not understand but it is nice to know it can be done, have watched your utube twice and will have to watch it many more times! your FrSky Taranis transmitter seems to be easier to set up than my Graupner MC-26. so may have to spend more time studying the electronics involved.
    Have been having a rest from boats and updating/upgrading my computers and running my windows and apple systems through a single monitor,and assisting the moving and setting up the local computer recycling charity
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Achieving 16 channels using S-Bus.
    18 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I am glad that you finally got it working as you want it.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ More Railings and Servo Plate Modification.
    18 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have finally found time to do some modelling. I have been quite busy on models this week as I have almost finished the Police Launch, update to come soon, and now concentrating on Dusseldorf.
    I cannot remember if I mentioned that I did find the time earlier to spray paint the inside of the cabin with Tamiya TS Smoke. This is an attempt to hide the incredible amount of motors wires and servos inside to achieve all of the functions. I can now confirm that I have achieved the 16 channel operation I have been seeking for a long time. I will explain in the next update which hopefully will be very soon.
    Two things I have done however, is to complete the curved railing at the front of the cabin and redesigned the way in which the servo tray is held inside the cabin. The front rail I made some time ago but as the fixings all run as a radial arc and are all soldered, I was concerned about melting the plastic during soldering as they had to be done in situ. Over the past year I have been worrying about this and decided to just go for it. I assembled all of the joints and placed them onto the model. I then used crocodile clips at the front and rear to act as a heat sink. The one at the front was interfering with the joint area and would also have been soldered. This might not look too attractive with five crocodile clips permanently fixed to the railing so I ground one down to half size. The joints were made easily. What on earth was I concerned about. The last part of this job was to trim and join the side railings. I decided to solder the joiners only to the side railings so that I can remove the assembly easily should anything go wrong.
    The second thing I have done is to enable the servo tray to be removed at any time. The instructions said to glue the tray in place which I did. The problem with this is that it is extremely difficult to get at the monitor fixing bolts after fixing. They can be removed, just, but with my hands, impossible to fix back on. I decided to break the tray out again and fix with nuts and bolts. I added some additional wood blocks to the frame that the tray sits on. These were first glued in place and then I added screws for good measure. I then assembled the two monitors onto the cabin roof and fitted the plate to ensure that the monitor rotational bearings were in perfect alignment. I drilled the four fixing holes at 4.1mm diameter and then added two additional holes at 4.00mm diameter to allow me to dowel it in place for accurate alignment. I added the screws and the two dowels, which are 4mm diameter brass tube. They work perfectly. Now I can remove the servo plate easily.
    I am trying hard to prepare the cabin for painting before the cold weather settles in here. I have a window of about two more weeks. I used a rainy day to make all of the remaining hatch cover and door handles.
    Thanks for reading this and if you are still awake, well done.
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Railings and Servo Plate Modification.
    18 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I am a great believer in being able to get at everything so that it can be replaced or repaired.
    So good on you for making the removable component tray.

    Handrails are not the easiest things to do but you have done a really good job.
    Already looking forward to the next update.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: More Railings and Servo Plate Modification.
    18 days ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    looking good Peter, always tricky when there are lots of 'extras' to fit, especially if the hands are getting a bit stiff, ( dropped a 3mm nut 6 times last night, before getting it on the bolt๐Ÿ˜) Like you've done, I try and make as many things removable as possible, to help with later repairs or mods.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hose connecting points
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Just a small update as I have very little time for modelling at the moment.
    I have been thinking for some time how I can drill 10off 2mm diameter holes for the deck hose connectors and valve hand wheels and have them look uniform. The instructions show them just glues into the moulding (so I am told of course). I decided some time ago to add 2mm dowels into the back face and glue from the rear. I decided to make a small jig to help with positioning from 3mm plasticard.
    I started by roughly cutting out a general shape of the bottom of the moulding. I then carefully shaped it with a file until it had a snug fit. I transferred the piece onto the other side of the cabin and it fitted there also. I then carefully worked out positions and scribed the Plasticard with the centres and drilled the ten holes. I then placed the jig into the recess and carefully transferred the holes through. I repeated this on the other side. I am pleased with the results. I think the valves, reported on an earlier post, and the hand wheels should look good.
    Next, I plan to try to paint the inside face of all of the windows to give a smoked glass effect. I hope this will hide all of the mechanisms necessary for the functions.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    4 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Peter,
    That is how I did it, so great minds think alike(except smoking glass), still playing and trying to hide and/shorten wires also seeing if I can reduce number of batteries!
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    4 months ago by figtree7nts ( Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,

    I like that idea!

    May, I recommend Tamiya PS-31 SMOKE!

    It comes in a small spray can!

    This should help with smoking the windows!

    Cheers, Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    Great way to transfer the holes.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Hose connecting points
    4 months ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Fine detail Looking to see more.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ“ Small Rowing Boat
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Before I left for Hungary, I did manage to find a little time to work on Dusseldorf. I decided to take a break from railings and start on the small rowing boat.
    The first thing to do was to cut and file the top edge of the forming to the correct height. This proved to be quite a task as I do not have the confidence to cut too close and end up with a lot of filing. I was very happy with the finished item. Next was to add a keel made from scrap material. Once again, I did not cut too close. I first formed the hull shape on the inside edge of the piece by careful filing. I placed the assembly to the light until I was happy with the fit and glued into place. Then, once again by filing, I profiled the bottom edge.
    The next task was the oars. These were made using pre-formed plastic parts for the blades and two pieces of 2mm wood rod for the shafts. The last few millimetres were filed to half of the diameter. The blades were then glued on and the whole assembly tidied up.
    The duck boards were next. I had treated all of the wood strips earlier with stain. I cut all of the necessary parts to length and carefully glued them together using a scrap piece of plastic as a template for the gap between planks. For the foot board inside of the rowing boat, additional forming was required. The files came out again. The plans were not good for scale here and I found that one fewer plank was required than that drawn.
    My next session will be in Hungary. I have no idea when. (I do really as I did a little today). First time I have found time here to do anything. I ran out of time to post this before I left.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Small Rowing Boat
    4 months ago by figtree7nts ( Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,

    Excellent workmanship!

    What great looking details!

    Cheers, Ed
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Small Rowing Boat
    4 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    That is a nice model for a model.
    I like seeing the amount of work that is involved it making some of the detail work.
    Keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Small Rowing Boat
    4 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Nice job sheโ€™s coming along. Really want to see this one in the water.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ“ Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have finally found some time to get on with some modelling. My house is now in turmoil whilst we pack everything getting ready for the big move to Hungary.
    My main task ahead is to prepare the cabin for painting.
    This can only be carried out successfully, in my mind anyway, if all of the holes needed to fit all of the additional parts, especially the railings, have been drilled.
    The centre monitor grating has tabs all around to hold the semi-circular rail posts. These posts then continue and are drilled through the cabin roof.
    To do this, I fitted the grating in place and aligned it as accurately as I could. I then used my milling machine and carefully drilled all of the holes right through. This worked very well.
    To make these curved rails, I bent the 1.5mm brass rod around a 65mm diameter spray can.
    The result was almost spot on for the 125mm diameter required. I then straightened the ends in line with the plan.
    The post tubes were cut to around 65mm and the burrs cleaned away.
    The posts and railings were then fitted together and fixed with 1mm split pins with the legs of the pins going inside of the tubes. I then set the post height with two blocks of wood at the correct height.
    I then place crocodile clips onto the tubes to act as heat sinks whilst I soldered all of the joints.
    I have used a very similar process to produce all of the other cabin railings. The rear monitor has a small railing which is also curved. I made this in a similar way using the plan as a guide for the positions of the bends.
    This did cause a little problem though. How to drill the post positions accurately in the cabin roof.
    I decided to trace around the shape of this bent railing and then place it accurately on the roof. I marked the post positions onto the paper and transferred these marks onto the roof and drilled. They worked out quite well.
    I marked out all of the remaining fixing holes from the plan using the height gauge I made for the Gato build and drilled these also. I use the clips as heat sinks on all of the joints so as not to melt the plastic around the posts. I have some joints to solder which are only 5mm from the hole in the cabin. I will have to come up with a plan B for these, my next job.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by AllDayFunHobbies ( Recruit)
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    Beautiful work. Keep it up.
    BannerMarty
    ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ‘โ›ต
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Much too late when I wrote it as well CDR ๐Ÿ˜
    Carry on as you go๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Thatโ€™s okay Fleet, it was late when I read the post and I read it as Commander. ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice going Peter๐Ÿ‘
    She's looking really business like now.
    All ship shape and Dรผsseldorf fashion๐Ÿ˜‰
    Some neat techniques as well.

    BTW My place is ALWAYS in turmoil - an' I ain't moving nowhere!
    Good luck with the move ๐Ÿคž
    Sok sikert a kรถltรถzรฉshez. (I hope๐Ÿ˜)
    S'pose it's been delayed somewhat by Corona blockades etc๐Ÿค”
    All the best, Cheers & รœdv, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Oops!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Belay that last order Commander Cash!
    I'm afraid I accidentally bumped you three ranks.๐Ÿค”
    Sorry about that๐Ÿ˜”
    I'm gonna keelhaul that Staff Captain๐Ÿ˜ 
    So here is your correct insignia, and as consolation prize at least your first Brass-Hat.๐Ÿ˜‰
    All the best in your new / old duties CDR Cash.
    FLEET//๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Thanks Fleet. I will strive to execute my duties faithfully and honorably.๐Ÿ™‚
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Congratulations Commodore Cash๐Ÿ‘
    Herewith your Pennant and new insignia.
    BRAVO ZULU!๐Ÿ˜€
    Cheers, FLEET ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    I guess Lt jg Errol Feline will now be demanding promotion to Lt Commander!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Martin has a good idea. Iโ€™ve used CA before in lieu of solder on some railings, long as they are not in a position to be stressed or under tension they hold up well, and paint or clear coat seals the joint.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by Cashrc ( Captain)
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    Hi Peter. Youโ€™re Dรผsseldorf is coming along nicely!! Iโ€™ve always wanted one, it seems a daunting task to fit that boat out with pumps, lights, etc but youโ€™re doing a nice job. Youโ€™re railings look spot on, and I agree with you on the Tamiya paints. The rattle cans are pricey, but they cover well, and dry quickly. Like you, I have a FrSky transmitter, a Taranis Qx7, it has a multi protocol module installed that I purchased off RCgroups a few months back, works well. Iโ€™ve never used the Sbus, might try that. However, I turn 60 this Monday, and saved up a bit for a new boat kit and radio. I picked up the Radiomaster 16s with the Hall gimbals. Iโ€™ve booted it up and played around with it, uses OpenTX as its operating system. Iโ€™m accustomed to OpenTX, but itโ€™s set up a little different than the Taranis, so my buddy JP is coming over to guide me thru transferring my models from the Taranis to the Radiomaster. JP knows OpenTX inside and out, so we shouldnโ€™t have any issues. Iโ€™ll give more info once weโ€™re done, if you like.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have a plan. I will make a few fixtures from steel with the correct hole centres and solder all of the joints that way. Remove from fixture and fit. Possibly.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Certainly a few tricky shapes in there Peter, but looking great so far.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Preparing the railings
    9 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    You have done a fantastic job Peter.
    Considering it was a job you were not looking forward to doing.
    They look excellent.

    As for your plan 'B' if you find you cannot solder the joints then maybe a drop of CA or a tiny dab of epoxy.
    After all when they have been painted no one will know.


    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Painting the small fittings
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    I have made a start on painting the small items prior to fitting. I have decided, as usual, to use some of my own colour ideas. I find the Dusseldorf too `red` so I have changed a few things. I have used mainly Tamiya TS spray paints on top of Tamiya fine primer. The results are pleasing. For the silver I used a left over Humbrol spray can. The result is very disappointing as you can see in the photographs. I will leave them as they are as they are such small parts and I am sure will not be seen in the middle of the Danube.
    Whilst preparing the fire hose connectors for painting, of which there are twelve, I thought that they looked bland without any detail. I decided to use a new design idea from the Vospers design department to improve their appearance. I turned up some small brass inserts to go into the centre hole and then inserted some old pin inserts into the centre to give some interest. This centre pin will also be used to position and fix them in place. They do not look too bad but the horrible paint finish does spoil them a little. I might be forced to revisit them before final fitting.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the small fittings
    11 months ago by Newby7 ( Vice Admiral)
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    Your right that on the Danube you won't see the parts.For me if its past 3 ft away I don't see.The parts look good.
    Rick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the small fittings
    11 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    Well it is good to see you are making progress.
    The paint Finnish dose not look to bad but then that could be your Camera LOL!!!

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    As one of our fellow members was experiencing a little difficulty in sorting out the electrical connections for the multiple channels required to run the Dusseldorf, I thought it was time that I should make a start myself. Usually I will wire everything up and fit the RC connections at the end. This is a model with an extreme quantity of functioning gadgets so I decided that I should make a start.
    I was always going to use my Taranis X9D Plus transmitter but was not sure whether to use two X8R receivers or one receiver and the s-bus connection. I purchased all of the gear for both methods as I knew that I would use the spare parts on a later project.
    Last evening, and after reading the other members difficulties with decoders, I decided to go the s-bus route. I wired up the decoders to a channel changer and found it to be relatively easy to use. I have two four channel s-bus decoders which will be wired together with a `Y` cable which in turn is plugged into the receiver s-bus port. The two decoders will be channels nine to twelve and thirteen to sixteen. Channels one to eight will be via the X8R.
    My next challenge is to figure out how to assign all of the switches and devices to the correct channels and more importantly, how to do it. The instructions supplied with the Taranis are next to useless. Fortunately, the Taranis has enough switches etc to cover for all sixteen channels, if you use the trainer switch.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Bombero.
    Sorry I missed your comment.
    I really like the Taranis and the open tx firmware. I am finding my way around and am finding it easier to programme than I first thought. I have left it for now whilst concentrating on completing the model before I move house. I have decided to use the x-bus system which should save some room and wiring. I hope you are getting on better with your system now.
    I have the wiring diagram supplied by Krick but will not use it. I will design my own circuits when I get there.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    11 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Mouldbuilder,
    How did you get on with the programming, I am still having difficulties and being helped by G6SW( see Graupner Mc-26 on Forum)
    If your system worked OK, did you make a wiring diagram? as I nearly ditched my transmitter so may try your system!
    len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    11 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Mouldbuilder, getting support,see graupner 26 forum, might help you as well!
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    11 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Am I missing something?
    Going onto "switch display" it shows which switches have been allocated (in my case 2,7,9,11and15 all preset by model basic settings). I then go to"Control switch" and select the line(assume C3 means channel3) enter set get message "move desired control adj" operate switch required, it should get an abbreviation of the control, press set. Nothing happens!
    Had A mate look, he thinks the wiring is OK but still does not understand the switch problem either, hence this question ๐Ÿ”ฅ
    Bombero
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Mould builder
    Have found the Graupner switch model has twice the connection because it switches on or grd, the Robbe will switch to forward to backwards!
    Also where I want the micro motors run forward and backward I need a "polarityinversion" cable for each one ( need 3 for Dusseldorf)
    So if I am right I am slowly proceeding and coming to grips with the Graupner system!
    WIRES EVERYWHERE๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter. I have found the 9XR to be a pretty good radio. I bought them when they first came out, along with spare boards, switches, gimbals etc. Haven't had to use the spares yet, but handy to have as they were very cheap replacements. I have a Futaba 6EX which has a tiny screen and painful programming method,- don't like it as much as the 9X or 9XR.

    The JR module is supposed to have a range of around 2.5 KM and I've never had any range problems, even though I tend to fly quite a long way away from myself.

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Just remembered JB, I also have a 9XR. I forgot I had it as I shipped it to Hungary a couple of years ago. I run my Pilot Boat with it.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks for that Bruce. That ESC looks quite useful. I have purchased a Hobbyking 860 dual ESC for my Dusseldorf. I do not think you can use the outputs interdependently on this one though. Cannot really see the point of having dual outputs if the have to run together. Yours seems a much better proposition.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Thanks for that JB. I do not think the X9D Plus has hidden menus but perhaps it does and they are hiding really well.
    I really am a novice at programming any RC device but I tend to do most of my research and learning once I hit problems.
    I will take your advice and write down what I learn as I go as there is one thing I do know for sure and that is that the Taranis instructions are less than useless. I have found some very good instructions which have been written by the Open TX group, I think.
    I am a little worried if you are using the JR module whilst flying a plane though. Out of sight sounds quite bad.๐Ÿ˜
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Interesting stuff on the Aloft site Bruce. (couldn't find the boat stuff) Don't think I'll be updating any of my TXs (9x and 9xr, plus a new 9xr in the box)) as they are reliable as they are (apart from replacing a slightly off gimbal in the 9xr). I've read dozens of posts over the years where people have 'updated' firmware and had crashes. I tend to leave well enough alone and have no problems. Used to manage with a brown box Futaba 6ch, - don't know how๐Ÿ˜. like cars I think, - more tech, more to go wrong๐Ÿ˜ I used to see guys at our heli club spend more time fiddling with fancy $2500 Futaba radios than actually flying๐Ÿ˜

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Bruce,
    I am unable to open the two links.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by bruce1946 ( Warrant Officer)
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    I have the Frsky Taranis 9d+ and it is not easy to program. I'm using 2, 8 channel recvrs on mine and using Open TX to do the programing with a friends help. I bought the user manual thru Aloft that helps. https://alofthobbies.com/taranis-plus-user-manual.html.
    Go to this forum https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php?conversations/boat-... and see what aloft tech says to do to program my radio for my boat
    https://alofthobbies.com/taranis-plus-user-manual.html.
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php?conversations/boat-details.173/#convMessage-959
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    will do thanks, regarding manually controlling them I do not have room for a dinghy and get seasick easily, used to crew in an enterprise sailing dinghy Ok but anything over 20 foot is a no/no even on calm water
    Lenโ›ต
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter, if the Taranis is anything like the 'TGY' (Flysky in disguise I think) 9XR, you'll have a bit of fun with the programming. The biggest problem is remembering what you did, where you did it, and what happened when you did it. One thing I used mine for, was to operate flaperons on one of my planes, which required up elevator to compensate, -took me hours of playing to figure it out.

    I found the best way was to write everything down as I did it. Not sure if the Taranis has 'hidden' menus, (menus within menus) but they are a pain as you have to highlight an item, adjust it and remember to save it, plus remember where it was. Good thing is, you can assign any switch to any position, and mix anything with anything, and once you get the idea, it's a handy device. I especially like the servo 'stepping' feature which can speed up or slow down a servos movement. I have an idea that it was an early version (pre production perhaps) of the Taranis and is designed to be used as an open source TX. I've fitted mine with a JR module, and the range is 'out of sight'

    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by bruce1946 ( Warrant Officer)
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    I ordered my reciever through Aloft hobbies in califonia. they have a great forum https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php and aloft hobbies have been very helpful in setting up my radio. I ordered my ESC for my motors thu Harbor models In Ca. Sabertooth 2X25 the company that makes this also has a 2X35 that is even better than mine now. https://www.harbormodels.com/de225.html
    Good luck hope this helps.
    https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php
    ๐Ÿ”—
    https://www.harbormodels.com/de225.html
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Len.
    Have a look at the log of Bruce1946. He has approached the problems from yet another direction. Apart from those dodgy characters that have pirated the boat, he has managed a lot more functions by separating the lighting and manually controlling them instead.
    Having seen that, perhaps we had better put all of the functions onto one big switch.๐Ÿ˜Š
    As for NASA Martin, I will give them a go. Must be very similar to operating a space craft.
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Maybe a phone call to NASA to see if they could help Peter LOL!!

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planning the electrics
    12 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Ordered a 16 receiver on Saturday heard today it probably wonโ€™t be in till end of year ( website still shows they still have them in stock)! So back to try to sort original setup! Found out a mate might be able to help so sent him the information so he can study my problems ( back in lockdown so will give us something to do) . Will try to understand what you are doing even though I have different equipment,
    good luck,
    LEN
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    ๐Ÿ“ Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Time passes really quickly lately for me. I am sure that those locked inside cannot say the same thing. I have, however, been suffering from a serious lack of motivation similar to that of Martin. I try to fight it but just sitting on my backside seems to win too often.
    I have decided to try to break away from this and get on. I have been doing a little modelling and this is the progress, or lack of, over the past four months.
    I have been concentrating on the cabin and making up all of the fittings. The radar is made up of several flat discs glued together and then formed using files and sand paper. I then had to drill several holes through the cabin roof, two of which had to be 12mm diameter. This would rip the thin plastic to pieces so a plan was required. I decided to buy a tapered hand reamer, tapered from 6mm to 16mm. I drilled the holes as large as I dare, about 8mm, and then slowly opened them up to 11.5mm. Then I found that once again I was suffering for not having read through the instructions beforehand. As the plastic is so thin walled and the parts attaching through the holes were so large, I should have glued some supporting wood to the inside roof of the cabin and drilled the holes through these also. I quickly made some support blocks from 12mm ply and struggled for ages to glue them to the ceiling above the servo plate already fitted earlier. I MUST learn to read the instructions first.
    I then decided to glue the foredeck down which meant I had to fit the angled brass anchor guide tubes. I thought this would be difficult, as I had already painted the deck, and it was. I now know why the painting is done after assembly. I have always feared the masking. Well I did damage the paint during the filing of the ends of the tubes to match the deck and the hull. I accepted the fact that a full repaint was required and also decided to change the colour below the waterline to black. The masking is shown in the pictures but I found the Tamiya masking tape invaluable. I followed the contours of the deck to gunwale using 5mm wide tape which you can follow the curves with relatively easily. Once that line was done I increased the tape to 12mm wide and carried on with this until a good footing for cellotape was achieved. I then stuck down a covering of A4 paper cut to shape to cover the rest. This was not as bad as I thought it would be so I have learned a valuable lesson. Assemble the main parts and then paint, very much in line with all of the modelers who have been doing it for years.
    I plan to improve my state of mind now and get on. I will concentrate on finishing the cabin so that I can finally paint it. I want to finish the main build by Christmas. No hope really!!
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    11 months ago by brianupyonder ( Warrant Officer)
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    looks very nice
    brian๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    12 months ago by bruce1946 ( Warrant Officer)
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    great job I have been delayed on finishing my dusseldorf and doing a little each week. it has slowed down since i got into getting the monitors operating. keep up the good work
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    12 months ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    MouldBuilder,
    How is the Dusserdorf progressing? I have ordered a 16 channel receiver as I cannot understand how the 16 channel switch module is wired to the 8 channel receiver only need 16 channels!
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hopefully problem solved, got the Graupner mc-26 actually working๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Have just YELLED on forum!
    ๐Ÿ˜ญ
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    " ... but am wondering if the RC system is beyond my capabilities."
    Somehow I doubt that very much Len๐Ÿ˜‰
    But if you do get stuck just YELL.
    We always seem to be able to muddle through with a community effort!๐Ÿ˜Š
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Been having fun wiring up the 20 pin connector block( glad I got the 20 pin bock as only have 2 pins not used).
    Next problem I have got is the wiring up to the receiver so the transmitter will talk and operate my boat. Unfortunately my knowledge of this side of boat building is very limited, the wiring diagram supplied is for a Robbe Futaba F-14a with a 8 channel receiver and Robbe multi switch decoder
    (No longer available) an replaced by a Graupner mc-26 with a GR-16 HOTT receiver and a 3972 16 channel switch,
    Hopefully the receivers are similar but the decoders are different layout( the Robbe has a power at one end and nine sockets at the other,whilst the Graupner has nine sockets at each end???
    and I have emailed Krick who supplied it and hopefully they will advise and update the plan. Then the fun of trying to program the Mc-26( I am using a simple two channel system to check the connections to make sure the are wired correctly)
    I enjoyed constructing the boat but am wondering if the RC system is beyond my capabilities.
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I agree with Mouldbuilder Bombero, so far so pretty good๐Ÿ‘
    Ex Fireman living in Spain!
    What else could your User Name be than Bombero!!?๐Ÿ˜‰
    (For the rest of you, nowt to do with the Bomb Squad ๐Ÿ˜)
    Salud, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    BTW Welcome back Len๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    As I thought Bombero, you have made a super job of your Dusseldorf.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work bombero.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by bombero ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hello MouldBuilder,
    Hope the two pictures appear!
    I completed an apprentiship as a fitter and turner in 1964 and was working in"tenths of a thousand" so can sympathise, joined the UK fire service retired and moved to Spain 2007.
    In my younger days I started several model boats and never completed them, five years ago I decided to try again and built a radio controlled caldercraft "Joffre"which I completed and decided to try to build the dusseldorf fire boat ( a big step up)a year ago so you can see the results. The wiring is everwhere as I had extended the wires and will sort and shorten them when the connecting block arrives. THEN I have to sort out where the wires go and set up the transmitter(also a big step up from a two channel "Sanwa Sabre)๐Ÿคž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Coming along nicely Peter, starting to look like a boat.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by marky ( Commodore)
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    Well said ,as one who bumbles along until things look right.
    Cheers Mark๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    And I'll third it Peter๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    There are no judges here, just helpers and givers of encouragement.

    Well said Peter, i second that.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Hi Bombero.
    I have been on this build for a year now and have found it quite challenging. Thanks for your kind comments but I am sure that you under estimate the quality of your own. I find some things very difficult to do such as painting. Some guys efforts on this site put mine to shame but it all seems to be about patience and time spent in preparation. I have neither so have accepted that it would not stand up to too close a scrutiny.
    I have decided to go away from the Krick guide to electronics and although I have bought most of the kit, have no idea as to how I am going to do it yet suffice to say that I am using a Frsky 16 channel Tx with two 9 channel Rx`s. I also have all of the sbus decoders just in case I change my mind.
    I have a bit of a mental issue whilst building models. For work, I manufacture very fine detailed mould tools for N Gauge and OO9 Gauge wagons and track and OO Gauge and O gauge track. This requires concentration on such small detailing. At home I try to carry on with this degree of care but time restricts this. I already have the reputation of never finishing anything, fairly I think, but this would be even more true if I did. Also I do not have much patience.
    It would be great to see your efforts on this site. You must remember that there are many different levels of ability and experience on this site and most are eager to help to develop us relative starters with ours. I have had a lot of invaluable help on this site, most of which the helpers are unaware of as it is by reading the build blogs of the experts we can learn so much.
    Please show us what you have been up ,to. There are no judges here, just helpers and givers of encouragement.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Moved to this thread on behalf of bombero. (Admin)


    Not a great writer but have been following your construction with interest, have finished main build of my dusseldorf and now sorting the electrics!
    I purchased the Graupner mc-26 16 channel HoTT 2.4 ghz transmitter,,GR 16 reciever and16 channel switch module( as recommended by Krick) as the system supplied in the build notes, "futaba F-14" is no longer available.Now have to sort connections as the wiring diagram supplied with the boat shows a "robbe"multiswitch 16 decoder with 9 sockets at one end and a lead from the receiver at the other end, and the graupner16 channel switch module has 9 sockets at each end! I am also going to connect the wiring from the cabin through a 10 connecter block so can remove the cabin without wires everywhere.
    Noticed the quality of your build, it puts mine to shame, might have to get another kit so I can correct the errors and order of construction!!!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I am pleased to see you have a bit of motivation back.
    The red and black hull looks good.
    As for reading instructions, I think we are all a little guilty of skipping through them.
    Some times it is best as they can be very misleading and wrong at times.

    When you have mastered how to improve your state of mind could you then share it with the rest of us LOL!!!

    It is nice to see you have done a bit to her and i look forward to more updates.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Tow Hook
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Managed a little work over the past few weeks in between improving my workshop and the Gato Submarine. I started to assemble the tow hook which has an automatic release. The instructions show a wire spring which has to be made from a small steel rod supplied. I bent it to shape and fitted it, after adjusting the hooks to make room for it, and gave it a test. I would have needed a hydraulic cylinder to get this arrangement to function. There is no way a servo could have moved it. I decided to modify the system.
    Firstly, I epoxy glued the parts I had adjusted to get the spring wire in place and filed and drilled them back to as they were. I then drilled a 2.7mm diameter hole to accept a 2.2mm diameter by 0.31mm wire diameter spring by 15mm long. See photo. The bar down which you have to drill is only 3mm wide so care is required. Care is also required regarding the depth of this hole so that the spring does not rest against the central brass column which the tow hook swivels around. I have now dropped the spring in place and reassembled the unit. This is a much better solution. It now works very well and does not take too much force to activate.
    Next job is to shape and fit the anchor guides. Another job I have not been looking forward to. I can then fix down the fore deck and complete the painting of the hull.๐Ÿ˜Š
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Special Functions
    2 years ago by MouldBuilder ( Rear Admiral)
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    Work has taken priority over the past several weeks but I have managed to get some work done on the project from time to time. My focus has been on the special functions.
    First, I completed the front monitor by adding the servo unit and the drive mechanisms. The instructions do have most of the information but due to there being so many parts and these being referred to only by their part number, I found it best to separate all of the required parts and dry assemble before committing to glue. All went well and I connected the servos to see how it functioned. There was a little slippage of the but generally went well. To reduce the slippage. The drive cord is tensioned by a spring connection. After putting more pre-tension on this spring, the slippage was eliminated.
    The dual monitors were next on the list but I decided on a change. Bring on the crane.
    I separated all of the parts and built the crane as a test. All seemed good so I disassembled and painted, my own colour choices I might add. Then I assembled the running gear frame and dry fitted the two motors for testing. I noticed that one of the motors was taller than the plan and would need to go right through the base plate and be seen from the top going through the deck. I decided top do my first basic scratch build. Not to the standard of many on this site, but little acorns and all that. I decided to invent a crane inspection hatch. I made it from scrap pieces of ABS. (No yoghurt pots to hand). I then wired the motors and added suppressors to each. The whole unit was now built and connected up to the TX. It works very well. A little juddery on rotation but I will look at that later. An elastic band doubled up provides the drive so I think it might be slipping slightly on the pulleys.
    I have now started to assemble the double monitor unit. I have assembled the servo plate and installed it. I have fitted the lower running bearings and completed a test assembly, with the gratings, onto the cabin roof. Looks good so I will try to complete this for the next update.
    One piece of advice for all those making this model. You will come to a point on the monitors that you will have to solder a tiny tube inside a larger diameter tube. This small tube takes the thread that will operate the raising and lowering of the monitors. Check multiple times before you glue these into the monitor heads as the instructions and plans do not agree. Watch which side the servo arm is fixed and work out these tube positions before gluing to the monitors.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Special Functions
    2 years ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    No Yogurt pots!!! That will never do. LOL!!

    Rubber bands do tend to bunch up and then give and that will also cause the juddering.

    It looks like you will have servos coming out of your ears LOL!

    Nice work,

    Martin555.
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