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    RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
    by MouldBuilder ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ( Commodore)
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    11 Posts 51 Comments 110 Photos 58 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Cabin and repaint
    16 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Time passes really quickly lately for me. I am sure that those locked inside cannot say the same thing. I have, however, been suffering from a serious lack of motivation similar to that of Martin. I try to fight it but just sitting on my backside seems to win too often.
    I have decided to try to break away from this and get on. I have been doing a little modelling and this is the progress, or lack of, over the past four months.
    I have been concentrating on the cabin and making up all of the fittings. The radar is made up of several flat discs glued together and then formed using files and sand paper. I then had to drill several holes through the cabin roof, two of which had to be 12mm diameter. This would rip the thin plastic to pieces so a plan was required. I decided to buy a tapered hand reamer, tapered from 6mm to 16mm. I drilled the holes as large as I dare, about 8mm, and then slowly opened them up to 11.5mm. Then I found that once again I was suffering for not having read through the instructions beforehand. As the plastic is so thin walled and the parts attaching through the holes were so large, I should have glued some supporting wood to the inside roof of the cabin and drilled the holes through these also. I quickly made some support blocks from 12mm ply and struggled for ages to glue them to the ceiling above the servo plate already fitted earlier. I MUST learn to read the instructions first.
    I then decided to glue the foredeck down which meant I had to fit the angled brass anchor guide tubes. I thought this would be difficult, as I had already painted the deck, and it was. I now know why the painting is done after assembly. I have always feared the masking. Well I did damage the paint during the filing of the ends of the tubes to match the deck and the hull. I accepted the fact that a full repaint was required and also decided to change the colour below the waterline to black. The masking is shown in the pictures but I found the Tamiya masking tape invaluable. I followed the contours of the deck to gunwale using 5mm wide tape which you can follow the curves with relatively easily. Once that line was done I increased the tape to 12mm wide and carried on with this until a good footing for cellotape was achieved. I then stuck down a covering of A4 paper cut to shape to cover the rest. This was not as bad as I thought it would be so I have learned a valuable lesson. Assemble the main parts and then paint, very much in line with all of the modelers who have been doing it for years.
    I plan to improve my state of mind now and get on. I will concentrate on finishing the cabin so that I can finally paint it. I want to finish the main build by Christmas. No hope really!!
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    16 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Peter,
    I am pleased to see you have a bit of motivation back.
    The red and black hull looks good.
    As for reading instructions, I think we are all a little guilty of skipping through them.
    Some times it is best as they can be very misleading and wrong at times.

    When you have mastered how to improve your state of mind could you then share it with the rest of us LOL!!!

    It is nice to see you have done a bit to her and i look forward to more updates.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    16 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Moved to this thread on behalf of bombero. (Admin)


    Not a great writer but have been following your construction with interest, have finished main build of my dusseldorf and now sorting the electrics!
    I purchased the Graupner mc-26 16 channel HoTT 2.4 ghz transmitter,,GR 16 reciever and16 channel switch module( as recommended by Krick) as the system supplied in the build notes, "futaba F-14" is no longer available.Now have to sort connections as the wiring diagram supplied with the boat shows a "robbe"multiswitch 16 decoder with 9 sockets at one end and a lead from the receiver at the other end, and the graupner16 channel switch module has 9 sockets at each end! I am also going to connect the wiring from the cabin through a 10 connecter block so can remove the cabin without wires everywhere.
    Noticed the quality of your build, it puts mine to shame, might have to get another kit so I can correct the errors and order of construction!!!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    15 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Hi Bombero.
    I have been on this build for a year now and have found it quite challenging. Thanks for your kind comments but I am sure that you under estimate the quality of your own. I find some things very difficult to do such as painting. Some guys efforts on this site put mine to shame but it all seems to be about patience and time spent in preparation. I have neither so have accepted that it would not stand up to too close a scrutiny.
    I have decided to go away from the Krick guide to electronics and although I have bought most of the kit, have no idea as to how I am going to do it yet suffice to say that I am using a Frsky 16 channel Tx with two 9 channel Rx`s. I also have all of the sbus decoders just in case I change my mind.
    I have a bit of a mental issue whilst building models. For work, I manufacture very fine detailed mould tools for N Gauge and OO9 Gauge wagons and track and OO Gauge and O gauge track. This requires concentration on such small detailing. At home I try to carry on with this degree of care but time restricts this. I already have the reputation of never finishing anything, fairly I think, but this would be even more true if I did. Also I do not have much patience.
    It would be great to see your efforts on this site. You must remember that there are many different levels of ability and experience on this site and most are eager to help to develop us relative starters with ours. I have had a lot of invaluable help on this site, most of which the helpers are unaware of as it is by reading the build blogs of the experts we can learn so much.
    Please show us what you have been up ,to. There are no judges here, just helpers and givers of encouragement.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    15 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    There are no judges here, just helpers and givers of encouragement.

    Well said Peter, i second that.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    15 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    And I'll third it Peter๐Ÿ‘
    ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    14 days ago by marky ( Captain)
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    Well said ,as one who bumbles along until things look right.
    Cheers Mark๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    14 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Coming along nicely Peter, starting to look like a boat.
    JB
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    13 days ago by bombero ( Able Seaman)
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    Hello MouldBuilder,
    Hope the two pictures appear!
    I completed an apprentiship as a fitter and turner in 1964 and was working in"tenths of a thousand" so can sympathise, joined the UK fire service retired and moved to Spain 2007.
    In my younger days I started several model boats and never completed them, five years ago I decided to try again and built a radio controlled caldercraft "Joffre"which I completed and decided to try to build the dusseldorf fire boat ( a big step up)a year ago so you can see the results. The wiring is everwhere as I had extended the wires and will sort and shorten them when the connecting block arrives. THEN I have to sort out where the wires go and set up the transmitter(also a big step up from a two channel "Sanwa Sabre)๐Ÿคž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    13 days ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work bombero.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    13 days ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    As I thought Bombero, you have made a super job of your Dusseldorf.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    12 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I agree with Mouldbuilder Bombero, so far so pretty good๐Ÿ‘
    Ex Fireman living in Spain!
    What else could your User Name be than Bombero!!?๐Ÿ˜‰
    (For the rest of you, nowt to do with the Bomb Squad ๐Ÿ˜)
    Salud, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    BTW Welcome back Len๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    6 days ago by bombero ( Able Seaman)
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    Been having fun wiring up the 20 pin connector block( glad I got the 20 pin bock as only have 2 pins not used).
    Next problem I have got is the wiring up to the receiver so the transmitter will talk and operate my boat. Unfortunately my knowledge of this side of boat building is very limited, the wiring diagram supplied is for a Robbe Futaba F-14a with a 8 channel receiver and Robbe multi switch decoder
    (No longer available) an replaced by a Graupner mc-26 with a GR-16 HOTT receiver and a 3972 16 channel switch,
    Hopefully the receivers are similar but the decoders are different layout( the Robbe has a power at one end and nine sockets at the other,whilst the Graupner has nine sockets at each end???
    and I have emailed Krick who supplied it and hopefully they will advise and update the plan. Then the fun of trying to program the Mc-26( I am using a simple two channel system to check the connections to make sure the are wired correctly)
    I enjoyed constructing the boat but am wondering if the RC system is beyond my capabilities.
    Len
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    5 days ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    " ... but am wondering if the RC system is beyond my capabilities."
    Somehow I doubt that very much Len๐Ÿ˜‰
    But if you do get stuck just YELL.
    We always seem to be able to muddle through with a community effort!๐Ÿ˜Š
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    2 days ago by bombero ( Able Seaman)
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    Have just YELLED on forum!
    ๐Ÿ˜ญ
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cabin and repaint
    1 day ago by bombero ( Able Seaman)
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    Hopefully problem solved, got the Graupner mc-26 actually working๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ“ Tow Hook
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Managed a little work over the past few weeks in between improving my workshop and the Gato Submarine. I started to assemble the tow hook which has an automatic release. The instructions show a wire spring which has to be made from a small steel rod supplied. I bent it to shape and fitted it, after adjusting the hooks to make room for it, and gave it a test. I would have needed a hydraulic cylinder to get this arrangement to function. There is no way a servo could have moved it. I decided to modify the system.
    Firstly, I epoxy glued the parts I had adjusted to get the spring wire in place and filed and drilled them back to as they were. I then drilled a 2.7mm diameter hole to accept a 2.2mm diameter by 0.31mm wire diameter spring by 15mm long. See photo. The bar down which you have to drill is only 3mm wide so care is required. Care is also required regarding the depth of this hole so that the spring does not rest against the central brass column which the tow hook swivels around. I have now dropped the spring in place and reassembled the unit. This is a much better solution. It now works very well and does not take too much force to activate.
    Next job is to shape and fit the anchor guides. Another job I have not been looking forward to. I can then fix down the fore deck and complete the painting of the hull.๐Ÿ˜Š
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Special Functions
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Work has taken priority over the past several weeks but I have managed to get some work done on the project from time to time. My focus has been on the special functions.
    First, I completed the front monitor by adding the servo unit and the drive mechanisms. The instructions do have most of the information but due to there being so many parts and these being referred to only by their part number, I found it best to separate all of the required parts and dry assemble before committing to glue. All went well and I connected the servos to see how it functioned. There was a little slippage of the but generally went well. To reduce the slippage. The drive cord is tensioned by a spring connection. After putting more pre-tension on this spring, the slippage was eliminated.
    The dual monitors were next on the list but I decided on a change. Bring on the crane.
    I separated all of the parts and built the crane as a test. All seemed good so I disassembled and painted, my own colour choices I might add. Then I assembled the running gear frame and dry fitted the two motors for testing. I noticed that one of the motors was taller than the plan and would need to go right through the base plate and be seen from the top going through the deck. I decided top do my first basic scratch build. Not to the standard of many on this site, but little acorns and all that. I decided to invent a crane inspection hatch. I made it from scrap pieces of ABS. (No yoghurt pots to hand). I then wired the motors and added suppressors to each. The whole unit was now built and connected up to the TX. It works very well. A little juddery on rotation but I will look at that later. An elastic band doubled up provides the drive so I think it might be slipping slightly on the pulleys.
    I have now started to assemble the double monitor unit. I have assembled the servo plate and installed it. I have fitted the lower running bearings and completed a test assembly, with the gratings, onto the cabin roof. Looks good so I will try to complete this for the next update.
    One piece of advice for all those making this model. You will come to a point on the monitors that you will have to solder a tiny tube inside a larger diameter tube. This small tube takes the thread that will operate the raising and lowering of the monitors. Check multiple times before you glue these into the monitor heads as the instructions and plans do not agree. Watch which side the servo arm is fixed and work out these tube positions before gluing to the monitors.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Special Functions
    6 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    No Yogurt pots!!! That will never do. LOL!!

    Rubber bands do tend to bunch up and then give and that will also cause the juddering.

    It looks like you will have servos coming out of your ears LOL!

    Nice work,

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Monitors nearly there.
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    I have now finished the repainting of the monitors and I am pleased with the results. Thanks to Martin555 for posting how he removes splitlines and ejector marks from his mouldings. This made me feel that I was being lazy for not doing this. The results are a massive improvement. I used small needle files and 400 wet and dry to do this and then remove the shine from all of the parts to help the paint.
    For the painting I first used Tamiya Fine Primer. The finish was excellent. I then used Tamiya plastic spray in Italian Red. I gave everything two coats of this followed by two coats of clear gloss.
    I have now cold assembled all of the monitors and filed where necessary to ensure free movement. This is critical for when I fit all of the servo-controlled movements. My next job will be to finally fix them together with glue and connect the servos. First, Though, I had to fit the silicone tubes through the brass tubes. Not too difficult you would think but the silicone tube is bigger in diameter than the brass tube they go through. I followed the instructions from Mike given below but I could only get them about half way through before either the tube failed or the thread broke. I tried several ways to connect them but finally succeeded when wrapping the thread tightly near to one end, as described by Mike, but then adding soap to the tube as well. This was successful. The Brass tube is 120mm long. This is the shortest one of the three, the longest being 180mm. Should be good if I follow a similar principle.
    The actuating mechanisms have now been built and primed and the servos added. My next task is to complete the operating mechanisms, assemble the monitors and fix them to their gratings. I will try to complete this soon.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Monitors nearly there.
    7 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Those monitors really look good.
    Well worth all the extra effort you went through.
    A job well done.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Monitors nearly there.
    7 months ago by bombero ( Able Seaman)
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    Hi ALL,
    I am also starting to build one of these boats during the lockdown (I am English and live in Spain)and am very interested in your helpful information. I previously built a Billing "joffre"tug
    Len๐Ÿคž๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting the Deck.
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    I am still working on the monitors at the moment. Removing the ejector marks and the visible split lines has been quite a job. The final result prior to painting looks good. It is a shame that I have had to do this improvement as the mouldings were the perfect colour to start with.
    I fitted the rear main deck a couple of weeks ago and now it was time to fit the forward deck. It was a surprise to find that it was about 6mm too large, around 3mm all around. I spent the best part of 4 hours carefully filing the shape and bevelling the edge to fit. It looks good but I will wait a while before fixing it as there are a few functions underneath.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting the Deck.
    8 months ago by Jgels ( Recruit)
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    Hello my name is John from Ohio USA. I'm patiently waiting for my Dusseldorf to arrive, its about 2 weeks late as of today.
    I have been watching your build and it is looking great ! Its a shame you had to go through all that extra work on the deck.
    Keep up the good work.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting the Deck.
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Hi John.
    I hope your Dusseldorf has arrived.
    Do you intend to activate all of the functions. I am currently improving the monitors. I have finished all of the painting of them now but having a nightmare trying to install the silicone tubes.
    Good luck with the build and if you come up against a problem just ask as I might have hit the same.๐Ÿ˜Š
    Peter.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Building the monitors
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Having a little break from the Submarine and getting on with Dusseldorf. In my last update I had started on the decking area for the three monitors. I have now tidied these up and trimmed all of the planks to size. I will satin varnish these to complete soon. I have started to assemble the three monitors now. They are really neat little assemblies and manufactured using red polymer. They look good enough to use as is but after reading another blog, I decided that they would look even better when all of the join lines and ejector pin marks were hidden. I have used 400 wet and dry paper and smoothed out all of the faces. I have roughed up all of the faces to help the paint stick properly. There are a lot of faces to do so will take a while. I have completed most of the assembly but will finish after painting.
    The main tube which carries the silicone water tube, also has a much smaller tube fitted inside. Both tubes are brass so I decided to fix by soft soldering. Due to the heat required, I used my soldering centre with the iron set to 360 degrees C. I first tinned both the inside of the 7mm tube and the outside of the 1mm tube, (the small tube carries an operating thread to raise and lower the nozzle with spring assistance). I then placed the small tube inside the large and soldered in place by holding the iron in place for about twenty seconds adding a little solder to the joint. This was successful. I did all three tubes like this.
    This weekend I will try to complete the monitors. As I have to paint them, I might not manage this. I still have to figure out how I can get the silicone tube through the brass tube. It fitted well earlier but now that the small tube is soldered inside, it will not go in easily. The longest brass tube is 160mm.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building the monitors
    9 months ago by mturpin013 ( Captain)
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    To get the silicon tube through, tie very tightly a piece of strong cotton thread around the end of the silicon tube, then thread the cotton through the brass tube, pull on the tread at the same time holding the other end which will stretch the silicon tube reducing its diameter, then keeping stretched feed through the brass tube๐Ÿ˜œ
    PS can we see the pump please and its spec.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building the monitors
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks for that Mike. Wondered how to get the tube through.
    The pump is a Krick 6 to 12 volt dc with a flow rate of 1200ml/min. I assume this is at 12 v, probably less at 6v. Krick recommend this pump for three monitors. I hope they are right.๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building the monitors
    9 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work, I am looking forward to seeing them in operation.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building the monitors
    8 months ago by chumbucket ( Leading Seaman)
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    Im interested in this build,just picked one up at Harbor Models last week,should be here soon.I belong to the PMPBA Boat club here in Portland Oregon
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building the monitors
    8 months ago by Cashrc ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Hi Peter. That pump is the standard one Krick sells, I have one in my Neptune and in my Dolly. The one in the Dolly gave me some trouble, but Iโ€™m pretty sure I ran it too long dry on the bench. I think I have it fixed now, however, weโ€™ll see later. Anyway, that pump is also used for windshield washers that have an external pump, like a retro fit for classic cars. Both Amazon and the aftermarket parts houses have it for considerably less than Krick sells it for. Part number SI-A0050.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building the monitors
    8 months ago by Cashrc ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Also, if youโ€™re going to make your monitors move vertically, be very careful with the return spring. Itโ€™s very light, and when I was testing the movement in the Dolly I let the servo move too much. The resultant slack in the monofilament actuating thread got caught in the spring and I didnโ€™t catch it, so the next time I lowered the nozzle it got caught in the spring and damaged it. Just a heads up.
    Cash
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building the monitors
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks Cash. I will be very careful.๐Ÿ‘
    Interesting about the pumps being cheaper on ebay. Another one to watch.
    Good luck with the build Chumbucket. Do you plan, like me, to get all of the functions working?
    Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ“ Starting on the decking.
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Just a small update. I started to do some of the final painting coats. I know that most members save this until the end but masking a completed model fills me with dread. I have finished the hull bottom, the bulwark and the deck. I will glue the deck in place next.
    I have started the wood decking for the three monitors. I first stained the wood and then cut and stuck strips to the base plates. I have now started to trim and form the inner bore and the outside shape. Unfortunately, I had a little accident. I cut one of the holes tabs off of one base. I tried to stick it back on but failed. I have now made a new small tab from scrap and will stick it on when they are complete.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Starting on the decking.
    10 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Nice work, keep it up.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Starting on the decking.
    9 months ago by Cashrc ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    Sheโ€™s looking good, really want to see this one in the water.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Completing the Hull ready for the Deck.
    11 months ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Did a little work on the Dusseldorf, It`s been a while. I fitted the Anchor winch assembly into the hull. I tried it first and the 1:400 geared motor gives a good representation of speed. I then fixed in the remaining electronics platforms. Things are starting to look a little better now. I then drilled holes and slotted with files the water drainage for the deck. I must admit I was dreading this but I am happy to say that the results are good.
    I know that a lot of people do not agree with me but I find painting of certain parts much easier before assembly. I have primed the hull and deck pieces and will finish painting before I assemble. I used this method on the Pilot boat and was fairly successful. The one area I did have a glue accident, I covered with a no scripted life raft container. I will take more care when applying glue this time.
    I have started to finish paint the deck pieces which I hope to fit soon.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Hull ready for the Deck.
    11 months ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Well Peter you have been a busy boy.
    Submarine and boat.
    You must have a big workshop to work in.
    You are definitely making good progress on both projects.
    Keep up the good work.

    Martin555.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Completing the Hull ready for the Deck.
    11 months ago by figtree7nts ( Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,

    Your Dusseldorf is coming along nicely!

    Cheers, Ed
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    I have spent the last couple of sessions preparing and fitting the prop shafts, mounts and pump plate.
    First was to prepare the wood profiles, paint with sanding sealer and then prime them. They look a lot neater sprayed grey than just plain ply wood. I checked the two motors and found that the suppressor was not of the correct value. I removed it and replaced with the normal 47nf capacitor across the terminals and 10nf from each terminal to the casing. I then connected the wires to the terminals.
    I built the assemblies, fitted the motors and placed then in the hull. I then inserted the shafts and connected them to the motors via solid connectors. I prefer solid drive connectors where possible as I believe this should reduce vibration which is often introduced through universal joints. When I was happy with the alignment, I glued the shafts in place with Acrylate. I then fitted and glued the water intake pipe also with Acrylate.
    Next came the pump plate. This plate also has the rudder servo secured to it. After assembly, this was also glued to the hull.
    Next job was to fit the rear deck support and the bead on the outside which will eventually hold the rubber fender strip. The pencil taped to the flat stick at a distance of 12mm was used to mark the outside of the hull similar to marking the deck support line before.
    It was now time to prepare the two deck levels. Strengthening braces of ply wood were fitted all around. This has resulted in quite a strong unit. The instructions say that the fitting of the decks is next. I think they have forgotten all of the working features of this build. If the decks are glued now, there is no room for fitting in all of the gadgets. I will wait until I know what is required.
    Next time I will start the preparation of the cabin. This part contains most of the fire monitor servos and piping, radar and search lights plus general lighting. Very busy.

    suppressor
    bead
    plate
    pencil
    decks
    stick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    More good stuff Peter, coming on very well๐Ÿ‘
    Odd with the motors! What capacitors were fitted then?

    "I prefer solid drive connectors where possible as I believe this should reduce vibration which is often introduced through universal joints."
    Hmm! Whereas I agree that universals can introduce rattling and vibration, especially the 3 part kardan couplings, or the all metal UJs. This is mostly due to bad alignment of the shafts in the first place. Otherwise a UJ or a kardan would not be necessary.
    BUT; using a rigid solid coupling demands that your shaft alignment is absolutely perfect.
    Otherwise due to it's rigidity any slight misalignment will cause excessive friction and wear on the shaft bearing and motor output bearing, which will ultimately lead to vibration anyway.
    Not to mention wasting power to overcome the friction.
    I don't like universals either. Which is why I make rigid couplings as alignment tools only and then fit a semi-rigid spiral coupling (as shown in my Sea Scout postings) for operation.
    This absorbs any residual misalignment as well as providing some axial flexibility to absorb the thrust reaction from the prop. And they are totally silent and vibration free๐Ÿ˜Š
    I buy mine from Krick incidentally.

    Acrylate glue? Never heard of it, so I looked it up๐Ÿค“
    Hadn't realised you are into finger nail cosmetics Pete ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    "WHAT ARE ACRYLATES? FOUND IN: Artificial Nail Products (Acrylic Nails, Nail Enhancing Polishes). Acrylates are derived from acrylic acid and are commonly found in cosmetic nail preparations. Ethyl acrylate acts as an adhesive to apply artificial nails and eyelashes. Ethyl methacrylate and methyl methacrylate allow sculptured artificial nails to mold and adhere to the natural nail plate. " ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿคฃ Yo MUST post some pics of your 'scultured nails' Pete ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿคฃ

    I like the ghostly translucent superstructure ๐Ÿ‘ Gives lots of scope for some interesting LED light effects.

    I note that you have wired both motors the same way (polarity).
    Your choice, but assuming that they run clockwise, (seen from the output shaft end) then the combined side-thrust from the two props on the downward / bottom stroke (๐Ÿ˜ฎ) will produce a strong torque reaction causing a list to starboard and will try to push the bow to port / stern to starboard.
    The latter you will have to constantly correct with the rudder. Had exactly that effect with the first runs of my destroyer, until a Retd. Cap'n RN told me to reverse the port motor!
    On the other hand, you can always use this effect to do some snazzy parking!
    Approach the 'dock' on the stbd. side at a slight bow on angle, give the throttle a quick blip and the side thrust should park the stern neatly on the dockside! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Practise makes perfect!

    Looking forward to the next instalment, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    ๐Ÿ˜Š
    finger nail cosmetics
    adhesive
    Artificial Nail Products
    Nail Enhancing Polishes
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
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    You are doing a great job, coming along nicely.
    However the pump that you are using could cause you problems as I have used this type of pump a couple of times and found it is not very reliable and has packed up.
    Maybe I was just unlucky and had two from the same batch!

    Martin.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks to you both.
    The pumps are Krick. I have found this company to supply quality items. Time will tell if this goes for their pumps as well.
    I will show you my nails Doug. Soon. In the mean time, this glue is recommended by Krick for the water tight areas. I used it on the Pilot Boat and it has performed well so far. Well, the boat has not sunk yet.๐Ÿค“

    pumps
    glue
    boat
    Pilot Boat
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    I agree Peter,
    I get a lot of stuff from Krick as well.
    Prices are acceptable and delivery prompt.
    I have a few of those pumps (also used in car windscreen washers).
    Found that they do tend to clog in murky waters but otherwise no problem.

    Funny, I'd forgotten the 'acrylate' part of Cyanoacrylate!!
    Got too used to calling it CA or Gluper Sue ๐Ÿ˜
    Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž

    car windscreen washers
    pumps
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    I forgot to mention the motor wiring. I have wired them the same polarity because I use a dual ESC so I can just swap the wires over for one of the motors. ๐Ÿ˜Š
    By the way. Is there a difference between Cyanoacrylate, super glue and Loctite? I saw a confusing comment in Mikes build blog.๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    "I have wired them the same polarity because I use a dual ESC so I can just swap the wires over for one of the motors."
    Hmmm! OK, but it is bad practice to mix up the colours; i.e. you would end up with the plus volts on a black wire and ground on the red!๐Ÿ˜ฎ The load (i.e. motor) should always be wired to indicate the required supply polarity. Makes troubleshooting much easier and helps to prevent accidents or magic smoke.๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿค•

    Super Glue is just the 'street name' for Cyanoacrylate glues. Must have missed Mike's comment ๐Ÿค”
    Don't know what Loctite is made of but it smells quite different๐Ÿ™ˆ
    Cheers, Doug

    BTW: I have one of those Dual ESCs as well๐Ÿ‘ It's destined for fitting to my destroyer or maybe the Southampton tug. I also have an Action Electronics dual ESC which has a built in rudder mixer. This might help the destroyer steering more than the Hobby Wing cos it only needs one stick for control of both motors and rudder with motor assisted steering!

    stick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks for the explanation Doug. I will reverse one. Do you know which, yellow or blue, is positive on the ESC.๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Don't know yet Peter. I suspect the yellow.
    I'll suck it and see ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Oh goody! A box of electronic goodies just arrived๐Ÿ˜Š
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Pete,
    Soooo, I have sucked ๐Ÿ˜ and seen!
    Tested my dual ESC on the motors of my Graf Spee.
    Yellow is positive when going ahead, as suspected.
    Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    BTW: don't forget to set the teeny weeny switches 1 and 2 to the right for Boat mode; forward / reverse with no brake!!! Switch 3 also to the right for NiMh battery, left for LiPo.
    Alles klar Herr Kommissar? ๐Ÿ˜
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Thanks Doug. The Pilot Boat has one which, incidentally, is wired backwards on one motor. I remember switching the wires.๐Ÿ˜€
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    All's well .... ๐Ÿ‘
    After I bought my Dual Quicrun I found the Action Electronics Dual ESC with rudder mixer AND output for a 3rd (centre) motor ๐Ÿ˜  Natch more expensive but ideal for MTBs / PTBs!
    Have fun Pete, Cheers, Doug๐Ÿ˜Ž

    Quicrun
    rudder mixer
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    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting the Rudders
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    There are four rudders on this boat. The design for these is a vast improvement on the Aeronauts Pilot Boat I recently completed.
    The first stage was to drill all of the required holes in the hull. These include two for the anchors, two for the prop shafts, one for the water inlet tube and four for the rudders. As this is an ABS hull moulding, drilling is not usually too much of a problem but due to the cost of the model, I decided to protect the insides around the holes with tape to decrease the possibility of cracking. I start the holes off with a 3mm drill and then increase to the final size which in this case was 4mm, 6mm, 7mm and 4mm respectively. I gently filed around the holes to get a nice slide fit and correct alignment of the tubes.
    The deck lies on a support rib which will later be glued around the inside of the hull. The instructions highlight the build of a simple device which will hold a pencil at a height of 7.5mm. A pencil is taped to a straight piece of wood of about 30cm long with a suitable spacer in between which was 3mm in this case. You can then place the stick to contact both sides of the hull and then draw a constant line at exactly 7.5mm down. Simple but effective. This will form the height guide for the deck support. This line was also continued around the bow of the ship which will form the bulwark later.
    The next job was to prepare and glue the side supports inside the hull for the rudder tube support board. Next job was to glue the support board in place. I did not notice at this time that the support board had quite a bad bend in it. The bow was upwards which resulted in the two centre tube alignment inserts being above the end of the tubes. The solution was to glue the two middle alignment inserts under the support board instead. A little awkward but the result is good.
    The rudder tubes were now fitted and glued to be water tight with Stabilit Express glue. This is good for water tightness.
    I painted the four rudders matt black and then protected with Lacquer. Although the instructions state that the rudders should be fitted and set up at this stage, I have decided to leave this for as long as possible to avoid damage.
    The next job is to fit the twin motors and prop shafts. This is a job for next week.

    boat
    spacer
    device
    pencil
    tape
    stick
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting the Rudders
    1 year ago by RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    How did I manage to miss this!๐Ÿ™„
    Great stuff Pete, your skills are going up exponentially๐Ÿ‘
    When I think back to our first discussions ... Hat off ๐Ÿ˜‰

    I use Grandads ancient wood gauge for jobs like that hull marking.
    I have that job before me with my Deans Marine Manxman hull ๐Ÿ˜ฎ

    KUTGW ๐Ÿ‘ Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
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