Photos & videos
Latest from the gallery
2,615 posts · Page 170 of 218All power is from a lead acid 12 volt battery,lights, running gear . Using a simple set up of two channel Planet T5 Radio.
I sail the boat at Rutherglen Boat Club Glasgow. The weight of this boat is really awesome and I kept adding lead untill it was nearly Impossible to lift,must be getting soft in me old age.. 👍 lol Deck crane is made from odds n ends and an addition..IAN
- BASHERLeading SeamanDear friend Dennis
Your kind words mean so very much to us and we thank you most sincerely for such a kind thought..Yes our wee lass was truly the gentlest kindest human being you could Imagine..See her here
http://cheryl.hamilton.muchloved.com
Thank you again ..Ian,Marion,Alistair
Only had the bath test at the moment but hoping get on the water soon at Fariford leys Aylesbury
- sharpy1071Chief Petty Officer 2nd ClassHI John, for a first attempt at scratch building that looks very good. The plan I built from had no info at all just line drawing of the out line three view, placement of the bulkheads and of course the actual bulkheads. You can see from my blog how I built the basic hull. But I have built and flown planes since 1968 and would shudder to think what I put into the air in the early days let alone the dodgy radio gear (reeds!) So keep trying it is all a big learning curve, Thanks for your input Brian
- groovydadLeading SeamanI used to live in West Bromwich and regularly made the trip to Walsall to SH Graingers to lust over the 36" Black Cigarette they had in the window. I remember the Surfury being available to scratch build on MAP plans and I was put off as it was a planked hull so never made one. Nice models, especially like the Irvine powered boat, nothing like the smell and noise of a 10cc glowplug engine at full tilt.
Good boat and fast. Watercooled brushed motor. Normal problem with commercial mini-boats is lack of proportional RC but this is fine. Battery life about ten minutes - low freeboard and takes on water but electrics/RC have proven resistant to regular swamping!
- CapnJimChief Petty Officer 2nd ClassHi, Thanks. Go for the footy! While this was fun to build there aren't that many days when I get a good sail out of this one. The wind close to the water is very awkward and models need to be tall (in proportion to the length) which makes 'scale' models indifferent sailors. Still worth building but a footy (in all its forms) provides a greater range of good sailing conditions.
I have a scale footy Thames Sailing Barge (scratch built to my own design) and while good it to can't compete with Footy Class boats for the variety of conditions that are good for sailing.
Regards,
Capn Jim.
For clear plastic glazing to match these ports. I use circular punch's which cut neat clear round plastic glazing to fit, also for cutting round plastic-card for circular objects etc. I have found that it works better if punched with a hard hammer tap onto a flat hard-wood backing.
Photo examples and tools. These tools are both available on-line in sets between 3mm and 8mm.
- ralphwilmotMaster SeamanThanks Ron,
Think it looks better where the port should be flat with the side of the hull.
Ralph
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
thank you for the information I have just looked on the web site the unit is the p100.
I must get one soon.